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READ THIS BEFORE UNPACKING YOUR KIT!

This instruction booklet contains detailed steps for installing Scootworks Raked Trees on your Vulcan 800 motorcycle. Please pay careful attention to the instructions regarding the disassembly and re-assembly of your motorcycle. If you have any questions concerning installation of your new Scootworks Raked Trees, please contact us via e-mail at support@scootworks.com. This will ensure you receive the most prompt and accurate reply.

Instructions for Installing the Scootworks Raked Triple Trees

(Be sure to visit www.scootworks.com and select [Information Resource] from the main page, for more info and color pictures!)

Tools Needed: 8mm socket/wrench 10mm socket/wrench 17mm socket/wrench 19mm socket/wrench 27mm socket/wrench Allen Key Set Spanner wrench or punch and hammer A small amount of wheel bearing grease Motorcycle Lift or similar lift device Brass hammer or drift pin Medium thread locker (blue Loctite), and high strength thread locker (red Loctite) or 5 minute epoxy

Rev. 1.1 – 5/1/09Copyright 1998 & beyond; Scootworks, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

All graphics, and descriptions in this installation instruction booklet are intended for personal use only. Any reproduction, publishing or distribution of any materials in this booklet is strictly prohibited without the expressed written consent of Scootworks, Inc.

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The installation of the Raked Triple Tree Kit follows a similar procedure as removing & replacing the original OEM triple tree. However, Scootworks wanted to assist you as much as possible with the installation process, and developed this simple instruction package. If there are any steps you feel need improvement in instructions, please email support@scootworks.com and specify the area you are having trouble with.

Unpacking! The shipping container and contents must be inspected by the purchaser for damage to goods immediately upon receipt of goods, and a claim must be filed with the carrier if damage is discovered. The purchaser must contact Scootworks within 24 hours from receipt of damaged goods to file a claim, and for further instructions.

Your Scootworks Raked Triple Tree Kit will come packaged with an upper tree of choice (fluted or smooth), a lower tree, a steering head axle, 4 cam locks and bolts, 2 steering stop bolts, a roll pin, and these printed instructions.

BEGIN INSTALLATION1. Begin by lifting the front of the motorcycle off the ground. We use the Scootworks Superlift II lifts (available at www.ScootWorks.com very inexpensively), however the use of a floor jack and jack stands is an acceptable method. Insure that the motorcycle is stable before proceeding. This is necessary, as the front wheel and fork legs must be removed.

2. Remove the front wheel. Loosen the axle nut and remove. Loosen RH fork leg pinch bolt, push axle out, and remove the front wheel. Pay attention to the location and orientation of the front wheel spacers. You’ll need to remember this for re-installation of the wheel.

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3. Remove the front brake caliper from the fork leg. Loosen and remove the two bolts for the front brake caliper. These are the two bolts that secure the caliper to the front fork leg. Once the bolts are removed, twist the front brake caliper slightly to force the pads into the caliper for easier re-installation, and remove it from the brake rotor. Tie a rag around the caliper assembly to keep it from scratching other items during installation. DO NOT pull the front brake lever while the brakes are off of the bike…you will have to forcefully spread the brake pads back apart if you do…

4. Remove the front fender. Unbolt the front fender and remove it from the front forks. Place it aside for reinstallation, later.

5. Remove the turn signals and headlight assembly. Remove front headlight ring and unplug headlight socket from bulb. Pull the group of wires from the hole in the back of the headlight housing. Remove the headlight housing from the lower tree and place aside. Loosen front turn signal brackets… OEM signals use a rubberized mounting assembly that simply tightens around the fork leg. Some mounts require to be slid off when the forks are removed from the trees.

6. Remove the handlebars. Cover the fuel tank with a towel or suitable tank protector. Loosen and remove the bolts or nuts on the bottom of the upper tree that secure your handlebar risers. Lift the handlebar & riser assembly up and off of the top tree. Lay the back across the tank area, making sure to not scratch paint or chrome.

7. Remove the folk legs. Loosen the pinch bolts on both sides of the upper and lower triple tree. Using a slight twisting motion while grasping the fork tubes (now the lower sliders/legs), remove the fork legs from the triple tree. This would be a good time to change your fork oil....refer to a service manual for this operation. Slip the turn signal mounts (and shrouds on Kawasaki Classics) off of the fork tubes at this time.

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8. Remove top tree. Loosen and remove the 27mm nut in the top center of the upper triple tree. Lift the top tree up and off of the steering head shaft. This will not be reused.

9. Remove lower tree assembly. Using a spanner wrench or punch & hammer, loosen the spanner lock nut and securing nuts on the top of the tree. Remove these, and slip the lower tree/axle assembly out of the bottom of the steering head.

10. Assemble lower tree. Locate the lower tree and steering head axle. The bottom of the lower tree has two unthreaded through-holes, while the top of the lower tree has two unthreaded through-holes and two threaded blind holes. The 4 holes in the top of the lower tree are to accommodate the headlight for the Classic & “A” model headlights. Now that you know how to determine the top and the bottom of the lower tree, slip the new steering head axle up through the bottom of the lower tree, and align the roll pin holes. Use a hammer to tap the roll pin through the lower tree and steering head axle. Use a brass hammer or brass drift pin to make the final taps, so as not to contact the chrome surface with the steel hammer. A press can be used for this as well, by placing the lower tree on a piece of wood (so the tree doesn’t make contact with the steel table of the press), and press the pin in place. Again, use a brass hammer or brass drift pin to make the last motion so the pin is pressed flush without steel coming into contact with the chrome lower tree.

**** NOTE- I personally prefer to cut the roll pin in half with a hacksaw or dremel tool, and only pin one side of the hole. This is sufficient, and makes removal for bearing replacement or other work MUCH easier at a later date. One can simply use a small punch and push the shortened pin into the center of the steering head axle and out through the hole provided in the bottom of the axle.

Remove the pin from the lower section of your lower tree and press the OEM bearing & seal off of the shaft. Install this onto your new steering head axle/lower tree assembly. You can also order and install a NEW bearing and seal at this time.

Install two of the 1-1/4” long allen head bolts ½ way into the steering head stop holes. These are the two threaded holes on the backside of the lower tree, nearest to the steering head axle you just installed. Remember this for a later step.

11. Install lower tree assembly. Grease the lower bearing with wheel bearing grease. Slip the lower tree up and into the steering head of the frame. Make sure to grease and place your original bearing on the top side. Install the upper plastic dust cap, and screw the first spanner nut down onto the steering head axle from the top side. Make sure the spanner nut is the one with the flange that goes through the dust cap, and that the flange area is turned down towards the dust cap. Tighten to OEM specifications of 43 in/lbs (3.5 ft/lbs). Install the upper flat spanner nut onto the top of the steering head shaft, and lock it against the previously installed spanner nut.

12. Install upper tree. Place the new raked upper tree onto the top of the new steering head axle. The axle should not come up flush or protrude through the upper tree. This provides for compression needed to tighten the top tree securely. Install the large 27mm nut & washer through the top of the tree and into the steering head axle. Only snug tight at this time…do not tighten more than lightly snug.

13. Install fork locks. Locate the 4ea. tubular fork cam locks and 4ea. 1-1/4” long allen head bolts. You’ll notice the one end of the cam lock has a curved surface machined into one side. Place this end into one of the four openings on the rear of the trees. The curved edge should enter into the 41mm fork leg more in the triple tree. Insert a 1-14” long allen head bolt through the cam lock and into the tree. Leave this loose, and allow the

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cam lock to slide out of the bore enough so as to not impede the insertion of the fork legs. Repeat this for all four cam lock openings on the trees (2 upper tree locks, and 2 lower tree locks).

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14. Install front forks. Slip the fork assemblies back up and through the lower trees using a slight twisting motion of the fork tube as when removing them previously. Slip the turn signal mounts over the fork tubes prior to inserting the tubes into the upper tree. Outer shrouds (for the Classic) can also be installed at this time, but note that there is no lower tab for holding the shrouds from rotating. Push them up an into the upper trees until they come to rest against the inner top of the upper tree’s fork leg opening. Use an allen wrench and tighten the cam locks against the fork tube. One all are snuggly tightened and the fork tubes are in place, remove one cam lock bolt at the time, apply medium duty thread locking agent (like blue Loctite), and reinstall. Tighten to 43 in/lbs (3.5 ft/lbs). Tighten the top center 27mm triple tree bolt at this time to 25 ft/lbs.

15. Steering Head Stop Adjustment. Slowly rotate the front from side to side…be careful and don’t allow your trees to come into contact with the gas tank! Screw the stop bolts in or out to provide at least 2” of clearance between your trees & tank at this time. Leave loose, you’re not finished yet…

16. Install handlebars. Reinstall handlebar/riser assembly into the new top raked triple tree. Install the lower bolts or nuts (depending on the handlebar style) and tighten to 25 ft/lbs. If installing factory KAWASAKI T-Bars with the studs built into the bars, reinstall with the optional Scootworks Tube Nuts and torque to 25 ft/lbs.

17. Final Steering Head Stop Adjustment. Slowly rotate the front from side to side…be careful and don’t allow your handlebars or risers to come into contact with the speedometer nacelle! Screw the stop bolts in or out to provide the final desired clearance at this time. Take notice of these adjustments. Remove the stop bolts, one at the time, apply high strength thread locking compound (like red loctite) to the bolts, and re-install to the desired position. Allow to cure. Some people have also used 5 minute epoxy, as this is an adjustment that you won’t change, and the epoxy sets quickly.

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18. Install Headlight and Signals. Re-install the headlight mount to the lower tree. Insert the wiring bundle back into the headlight housing, reconnect the headlight and turn signal wiring, and re-install the front headlight ring.

19. Install Front Fender. Rotate the lower fork legs/sliders, and re-install the front fender to the front forks.

20. Install front wheel. Re-install the front wheel and wheel spacers in the reverse order of disassembly. Tighten the front axle nut to 80 ft/lbs. Tighten the front axle pinch bolt in the lower RH leg to 25 ft/lbs. Re-install the front brake caliper and tighten to 25 ft/lbs. Pump front brake lever repeatedly to seat the brake pads back against the front rotor.

You're finished!

Now that you're finished, enjoy the raked look and feel of your bike. In the event of any questions, feel free to email us at support@scootworks.com .

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FAQ’s for your new Lowering Kit!

Question- Will these 4 degree trees lower the front of my bike. Answer- Very little. The Vulcan 800’s all sit somewhat ‘nose high’, especially if lowered in the rear any. The picture of the yellow 800A in our ad had already been lowered 2” in the front and rear prior to installation of the raked trees. The 4 degree trees brought the nose of the bike down a little, and it is still slightly above level. A bike with stock height in the rear will be just barely above level in the front with these trees. None of our customers have needed longer front tubes at this point, and most have lowered the rear 1”-2” to add to the illusion of a longer bike.

Question- How do these trees impact the handling of my bike? Answer- We retain the trail of 3”-5” with these trees (depending on tire selection and front/rear lowering), so you bike will handle fine. Most customer comments are “it handles better” and “it doesn’t wander around on the grooves in the highway as much as before”.

Question- Will I need longer hoses & cables for this installation?Answer- No. The hoses and cables you currently have will be unchanged by the installation of the Scootworks 4 degree raked trees.

Question- Will the raked trees change the ride of my bike?Answer- Slightly. With this amount of rake, the bike will ‘feel’ to have a slightly softer ride. If you prefer a more solid ride, you can add a simple shim on top of your existing fork spring, inside of the fork tubes.

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