Ysterografo Magazine_Issue 131
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Weekly magazine _ fAShIoN*5_issue //this issue was edited, curated & designed_by filep motwary
Transcript of Ysterografo Magazine_Issue 131
-
s
-
sED
ITO
RS
LETT
ER
SY
NO
PS
IS
veron
ique b
ranqu
inho r
etros
pecti
ve ph
otos a
lex sa
linas
This
is t
he fi
fth
issu
e of
Fas
hion
ste
rogra
fo, a
gai
n th
is t
ime
one
step
ahe
ad,
kee
ping
its
ta
sks
to t
he p
oint
. I
feel
luck
y ha
ving
Mr
Kuk
i D
e Sal
vert
es a
s m
y p
artn
er
in c
rim
e,
the
man
beh
ind
Tote
m,
may
be t
he m
ost
impo
rtan
t P
R o
ffic
e in
Par
is.
The
next
pag
es w
ill r
evea
l to
you
the
mea
ning
of
AN
TWER
P
SIX
an
d ho
w
thes
e
desi
gne
rs
man
aged
to
have
a s
olid
pla
ce o
n th
e m
ap o
f w
hat
we
call
Inte
rnat
iona
l Fas
hion
.
Als
o yo
u w
ill h
ave
the
chan
ce to
read
the
conv
ersa
tion
s
Ive
had
wit
h: N
icol
a Fo
rmic
hett
i, D
ries
Van
Not
en,
Mar
ia
Luis
a,
Man
ish
Aro
ra,
Wal
ter
van
Bei
rend
onck
,
Ver
oniq
ue B
ranq
uinh
o, J
uun
J, B
ernh
ard
Will
helm
, N
icol
as
And
reas
Tar
alis
, A
.F V
ande
vors
t
Unf
ortu
nate
ly t
he i
nter
view
s ar
e pu
blis
hed
in h
alf
due
to o
ur
deci
sion
to
laun
ch t
he fift
h is
sue
as b
iling
ual.
I pr
omis
e to
sha
re t
he ful
l ver
sion
s in
the
sho
rt c
omin
g fut
ure
as
part
of an
othe
r pu
blic
atio
n.
For t
he la
st th
ree
pages
, I s
elec
ted
som
e pe
rson
al m
omen
ts c
aptu
red
by Y
anni
s Vla
mos
, Jo
hn L
eean
eris
and
Dap
hnee
Sam
aras
, du
ring
the
8th
Hel
leni
c Fa
shio
n W
eek.
A G
reat
Tha
nk Y
ou t
o
Jona
than
Mos
cate
lli
Jona
than
Fry
dman
St
phan
ie W
alte
r
All
at T
OTE
M P
aris
Fas
hion
conc
ept:
.
-
Kuk
i De
Sal
vert
es,
,
,
,
.
AN
TWER
P S
IX,
.
:
Nic
ola
Form
iche
tti,
Dries
Van
Not
en, M
aria
Lui
sa, M
anis
h
Aro
ra, W
alte
r va
n B
eire
ndon
ck, Ver
oniq
ue B
ranq
uinh
o,
Juun
J, B
ernh
ard
Will
helm
, N
icol
as A
ndre
as T
aral
is, A
.F
Van
devo
rst
,
-
,
Fas
hion
.
!
M
,
.
File
p M
otw
ary
* U
n no
uvEau
iDEA
L
ww
w.file
pmot
war
y.bl
og.c
om
-
In O
ctob
er 1
997,
long
ing
to s
tart
her
own
labe
l, Ve
roni
que
Bran
quin
ho d
esig
ned
her
first
w
omen
swea
r col
lect
ion.
Sim
ulta
neou
sly,
she
desi
gned
the
wom
ens
col
lect
ion
for t
he It
alia
n ho
use
of R
uffo
Res
earc
h fo
r 2 s
easo
ns a
nd p
artic
ipat
ed in
exh
ibiti
ons
all o
ver t
he B
elgi
um
fash
ion
scen
e (n
otab
ly at
Col
ette
with
Raf
Sim
ons)
. In
Janu
ary
2003
, she
enr
iche
d he
r wor
ld
by a
ddin
g a
men
swea
r col
lect
ion.
The
firs
t bou
tique
in h
er n
ame,
ope
ned
in A
ugus
t of t
he
sam
e ye
ar.
In 1
998
she
won
Bes
t Des
igne
r Aw
ard
at th
e VH
1 Fa
shio
n Aw
ards
. In
Mar
ch
2008
, Ear
lier t
his
year
, Bra
nqui
nho
s w
ork
retro
spec
tive
open
ed it
s d
oors
at t
he F
ashi
on
Mus
eum
of A
ntw
erp
(MoM
U) .
The
exhi
bitio
n en
title
d M
oi, V
eron
ique
: Bra
nqui
nho
Tout
e Nu
e (I,
Ver
oniq
ue: B
ranq
uinh
o To
tally
Nak
ed)
expo
sed
the
desi
gner
s c
loth
ing
and
refe
renc
es
from
the
last
dec
ade.
Thi
s co
nver
satio
n ha
ppen
ed a
few
day
s be
fore
the
new
yea
r, 20
09.
- You
exp
ress
ed in
tere
st in
ART
S w
hen
star
ting
your
car
eer.
How
did
you
fina
lly c
hose
to
dev
ote
your
self
in F
ashi
on?
It w
as in
the
late
80
s, w
hen
I dis
cove
red
the
wor
k of
the
Antw
erp
s Si
x th
at I
star
ted
bein
g in
tere
sted
in fa
shio
n.I a
dmire
d th
e w
ork
of D
irk V
an S
aene
en
Mar
tin M
argi
ela.
They
spo
ke a
lang
uage
that
I co
uld
unde
rsta
nd, a
nd m
ost o
f all,
coul
d fe
el.
I wan
ted
to c
omm
unic
ate
in th
e sa
me
way
. Be
fore
that
, fas
hion
just
was
som
ethi
ng th
at b
elon
ged
to a
noth
er w
orld
.-
The
mem
ory
of y
our
Sprin
g Su
mm
er 2
005
colle
ctio
n is
stil
l hau
ntin
g m
e. It
was
the
only
Bra
nqui
nho
show
I at
tend
ed s
o fa
r and
the
soun
dtra
ck, O
MD
s D
ream
of m
e h
as
beco
me
on o
f m
y fa
vorit
e so
ngs
sinc
e th
at d
ay. T
ell m
e, h
ow d
iffic
ult
is t
o cr
eate
a
good
pre
sent
atio
n, s
omet
hing
as
mem
orab
le a
s th
is, s
o ci
nem
atic
, poe
tic a
nd y
et s
uch
a po
wer
ful e
ffect
at t
he s
ame
time?
Tha
nks.
For
me,
fash
ion
is n
ot o
nly
abou
t cre
atin
g cl
othe
s bu
t mos
t of a
ll ab
out c
reat
ing
a un
ivers
e. T
he w
omen
, the
mus
ic, t
he s
ettin
g, th
e cl
othe
s ar
e al
l equ
ally
impo
rtant
to m
e.Al
l the
se e
lem
ents
toge
ther
mak
e th
at y
ou c
an c
reat
e th
e rig
ht e
mot
ion.
- You
r wor
k lo
oks
as s
omet
hing
ver
y pe
rson
al, y
et h
as a
cle
ar B
elgi
an id
entit
y. W
hy d
o yo
u th
ink
Belg
ian
fash
ion
mad
e su
ch a
stro
ng im
pact
, ba
ck in
the
late
198
0s
and
still
co
ntin
ue to
ROC
K th
e w
orld
, by
bei
ng s
o in
divi
dual
, to
this
day
? Al
l Bel
gian
des
igne
rs
pi
, V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho
-
pi
1997
.
Ruffo
Res
earc
h
-
(
pi
Cole
tte
Raf S
imon
s). T
2003
pi
pi
pi
Ver
oniq
ue B
ranq
uinh
o.
1998
Bes
t Des
igne
r
VH1
fa
shio
n aw
ards
.
pi
Ant
wer
p (M
OMU)
-
pi
.
Moi
Ver
oniq
ue:
Bran
quin
ho T
oute
Nue
(
V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho
)
pi
pi
pi
pi
,
.
Ver
oniq
ue
pi pi
20
09.
-
.
pi
;
80,
pi
Antw
erp
6,
.
Dirk
Van
Sae
ne
Mar
tin M
argi
ela.
pi
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
.
pi
pi
.
-
,
/
2005
.
pi
pi
pi
pi
OMD
Dre
am o
f me
,
, pi
,
pi
pi
pi
.
, pi
pi
pi,
,
pi
, pi
pipi
pi
pi .
.
pi.
,
, ,
,
pi
pi
pi
.
-
pi
pi
pi
,
.
,
,
pi
pi
80
;
-
pi
.
.
-
pi
. pi
.-
pi
pi
, pi
.
;
, pi
-
,
.
pi pi
,
pi
-
pi
pi
:
pi
,
pi
pi
.
; pi ;
pi
pi
pi
.
on
the
road
.-
2008
pi
.
4
pi
.
;
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
pi
.
pi
pi,
pi
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
.
pi
,
pi
pi
.
pi
.
pi pi
pi
-
;
pi
,
pi
pi pi
pi;
.
-
pi
pi
.
,
pipi
.
pi
,
,
, pi
pi
pi
. pi
pi
-
.
pi
pi
.
pi
. pi
pi
pi
.
-
pi pi ;
-
.
pi
pi
-
vero
niqu
e br
anqu
inho
ret
rosp
ecti
ve p
hoto
s al
ex s
alin
aspo
rtra
it a
n ja
cobs
inte
rvie
w f
ilep
mot
war
y
pi,
,
pi
, pi
pipi
pi
pi .
.
pi.
,
, ,
,
pi
pi
pi
.
-
pi
pi
pi
,
.
,
,
pi
pi
80
;
-
pi
.
.
-
pi
. pi
.-
pi
pi
, pi
.
;
, pi
-
,
.
pi pi
,
pi
-
pi
pi
:
pi
,
pi
pi
.
; pi ;
pi
pi
pi
.
on
the
road
.-
2008
pi
.
4
pi
.
;
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
pi
.
pi
pi,
pi
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
.
pi
,
pi
pi
.
pi
.
pi pi
pi
-
;
pi
,
pi
pi pi
pi;
.
-
pi
pi
.
,
pipi
.
pi
,
,
, pi
pi
pi
. pi
pi
-
.
pi
pi
.
pi
. pi
pi
pi
.
-
pi pi ;
-
.
pi
pi
are
very
diff
eren
t an
d m
ake
very
diff
eren
t co
llect
ions
. Th
e th
ing
that
con
nect
s th
em i
s in
divid
ualit
y. T
hey
all d
o th
eir t
hing
, apa
rt fro
m tr
end,
in g
ood
and
bad
times
. Tha
t s
wha
t m
akes
thei
r wor
k in
corru
ptib
le a
nd h
ones
t.-
You
wor
ked
very
clo
se w
ith f
ello
w C
yprio
t, st
ylis
t, Pa
nos
Yiap
anis
, eve
n be
fore
he
beca
me
so b
ig. H
ow w
as th
is r
elat
ions
hip?
In th
e fir
st p
lace
we
are
frien
ds, e
ven
if w
e m
et tr
ough
our
wor
k. I
have
goo
d m
emor
ies
goin
g to
mus
ic fe
stiva
ls a
nd w
atch
ing
mov
ies
toge
ther
.-
You
once
sai
d in
an
inte
rvie
w:
To c
onqu
er s
ex is
muc
h m
ore
attra
ctiv
e th
at th
e ac
t its
elf
. Wha
t is
sex
for
you
? Ho
w d
oes
it ap
peal
in y
our
wor
k? D
esire
is th
e dr
ive to
sa
tisfa
ctio
n. I
love
to b
e on
the
road
.- I
n M
arch
of 2
008,
you
had
a re
trosp
ectiv
e ex
hibi
tion
of y
our w
ork.
Its
been
four
mon
ths
sinc
e it
ende
d. W
hat i
s th
e ta
ste
in
your
mou
th?
Do
you
feel
that
you
r wor
k ha
s m
ade
a fir
st c
ompl
ete
circ
le?
In fa
shio
n w
e ar
e al
way
s th
inkin
g of
the
futu
re.
The
exhi
bitio
n di
d al
low
me
to m
ake
a st
op a
nd lo
ok b
ehin
d. 1
0 ye
ars
is a
goo
d tim
e to
mak
e up
the
bala
nce.
To
be p
roud
of t
he g
ood
thin
gs a
nd le
arn
from
the
bad
thin
gs.
I lef
t my
lugg
age
behi
nd a
nd fe
el li
ght a
nd fr
ee fo
r the
nex
t 10
year
s. I
alw
ays
say
that
my
colle
ctio
ns a
re li
ke m
y di
ary.
Now
its
like
I fin
ishe
d a
chap
ter i
n m
y bo
ok a
nd I
m re
ady
for
a ne
w o
ne. A
virg
in w
hite
pag
e is
alw
ays
insp
iring
.- D
oes
it tir
e yo
u, th
is w
hole
pro
cedu
re o
f fas
hion
? Th
e co
llect
ions
that
com
e on
e af
ter
the
othe
r, th
e pr
ess?
Do
you
have
mom
ents
of s
olitu
de?
My
rela
tions
hip
with
the
fash
ion
syst
em is
an
ambi
guou
s on
e. I
feel
goo
d w
hen
Im c
reat
ing,
but
som
etim
es I
feel
frus
trate
d be
caus
e of
the
high
spe
ed d
eadl
ines
. Rea
dy o
r not
, eve
ry s
ix m
onth
s yo
u ne
ed to
sho
w y
our
wor
k to
the
wor
ld. T
hat
s w
hy I e
nvy o
ther
cre
ative
peo
ple
like
writ
ers,
pai
nter
s, m
usic
ians
,...,
they
sho
w th
eir n
ovel
s, p
aint
ings
, mus
ic,..
., to
the
wor
ld w
hen
they
thin
k it
s re
ady
and
not
beca
use
ther
e is
a n
ew s
easo
n. B
ut o
n th
e ot
her h
and,
bec
ause
of t
he ti
me-
pres
sure
you
can
re
act q
uick
ly on
the
sign
of t
he ti
mes
. And
that
is w
hat f
ashi
on is
abo
ut :
Com
mun
icat
ion.
Aler
t and
with
the
finge
r on
the
puls
e.- W
hat i
s Ro
man
ce fo
r you
and
how
do
you
thin
k it
refle
cts
thro
ugh
your
wor
k? R
oman
ce
is th
e fu
el o
f life
. Ind
ispe
nsab
le.
F
-
- Manish, your S/S09 collections main theme was around the idea of a circus. In all your collections,
shocking colours rule the game. Yet, this time the tones were lower and more relaxed. Do you feel your growing older?No I wouldnt say that I am growing older, however one does evolve with every collection.
- This season you were invited by the President of the French Fashion Federation, Didier Grumbach to present your collection in Paris. How did it go? Didier Grumbach invited me to present my collection in Paris 3 collection
ago. I was extremely happy and excited when he invited me. It was my chance to show my work on the biggest platform for fashion in the world. There was a lot
of preparation, excitement and nervousness but it all went great. -Paris Bourse building was dressed in Manish Arora during the Paris Fashion Week for SS/09. ow do you feel that you actually dressed one of the more important buildings in Paris? I was approached by the people at Tranoi and felt it was a great opportunity to show my work on a different platform. It was a fun project and I really enjoyed doing it. - Where do you see yourself at this point, compared to the stardom of your career? I am still
learning, still curious and I still have a hunger to make beautiful things.- Do you think that a good fashion designer can also be good in other things? If yes, what?
Definitely yes, creativity can flow in many other creative avenues. Now having designed footwear for Reebok, signature collection for Mac cosmetics, swatch and my eyewear
collection I feel that there is so much one can do. - How much time do you spend alone? How does your family support what
you do? When I travel I am most often alone. My family has always stood by me and been supportive of my life and work.
- What is love for you? Love is something special and personal.- How far do you mix tradition of Indian culture with the
European? Where does the rid thin line start that separates praising ones roots and offending them. I have an equal
mix of both. My culture and roots play a very important factor my collection but without the European mix it would be incomplete. Indian culture has always been very easy with mixing and lending itself to other cultures so it would take a lot for me to offend it. - Can Fashion be a protest? Yes fashion can be a protest because people have always used the clothes they wear as a way to stand for something whether itd be teenage rebellion or freedom fighters.
- Your future projects? There is collaboration with SWATCH coming up next year and we have designed the packaging of NIVEA SOFT. Their boxed will be covered in prints by us whom will also be out next year.
As Manish Arora showed his first collection in
New Delhi in 1997while the Indian press recognized him as the Rising Star of
Indian Fashion.After he won Best Womens Prt Designer Price during the Indian Fashion
Awards 2004 he successfully debuted at the London Fashion Week in September 2005. Recently he wasinvited by Didier Grumbach, Manish Arora shows his Spring/Summer 2008 collection for the first time during the Paris Fashion Week in October 2007. For his Autumn/Winter 2008-09 collection he collaborated with renowned Japanese artist Keiichi Tanaami,
Indian contemporary artist Subodh Gupta and Walt Disney to design a range of garments
part of his collection. A new collaboration just started now with MAC and
REEBOK
MANISh ARORA
catw
alk
imag
es y
iann
is v
lam
os
interview filep motwary
-
- pi . , , - pi . - pi pi ; pi
, pi , pi . - pi
pi , Didier Grumbach, pi pi . pi ;
pi pi pi. pi . pi pi pi, , pi . - Bourse Manish Arora / 09. ; pi pi pi pi ; pi- pi Tranoi pi pi pi. pi. pi pi.- pi , ; , pi .- pi , pi - pi; . pi pipi pi . pi pipi Reebok, Mac, , pi pi pi pi -. - pi ; pi pi pipi. - - pi pi pi ; pi pi , pi , pi. pi pi , pi . - pi pi ; pi. -pi pi , pi- pi .- ; - SWATCH pi pi design pi NIVEA SOFT.
Manish Arora pi pi -
, 1997, i pi
. , 2004, Best Womens Prt Designer, pi pi - . pi Didier Grumbach pi 2007, pi pi pi - . pi/ 2008-2009 pi - Keiichi Tanaami, Subodh
Gupta Walt Disney.
Mac REEBOK
MANISh ARORA
-
BLB@
Gra
duat
e of
Esm
od in
198
2 m
ajor
ing
in fa
shio
n an
d fa
shio
n illu
stra
tion,
and
cos
tum
e an
d fa
shio
n hi
stor
y of
the
18th
, 19t
h an
d 20
th c
entu
ry.
Kuki
de S
alver
tes
debu
ted
as p
ress
atta
ch
at M
osch
ino,
whe
re h
e w
as in
cha
rge
of th
e Eu
rope
en m
arke
t unt
il 19
89. F
rom
198
9 to
199
1 he
ass
umed
the
resp
onsib
lities
of i
nter
natin
al pr
ess
atta
ch
at V
ivien
ne W
estw
ood,
all
the
whi
le fre
e lan
cing
on
the
the
side
since
198
4 w
ith M
arce
l Mar
ongi
u an
d Al
ain M
ikli, s
ince
198
4As
of 1
992,
at t
he c
ente
r of T
otem
Pre
ss O
ffice
, cre
ated
with
Pat
rick
Gira
ult,
he c
ontri
bute
d to
the
laun
ches
an
d to
the
noto
riety
of n
umer
ous
avan
t-gar
de d
esig
ners
: Je
rem
y Sc
ott,
Olivi
er T
heys
kens
, Ben
oit M
la
rd, R
af S
imon
s, V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho,
Ber
nhar
d W
illhel
m,
Wal
ter V
an B
eire
ndon
ck, B
runo
Pie
ters
, A.F
. Van
devo
rst,
Haid
er A
cker
man
n,Ch
ristia
n W
ijnan
ts.
Fuel
ed b
y a
genu
ine
pass
ion
for d
esig
n an
d cr
eatio
n, h
e re
gula
rily
dete
cts
new
tale
nts
even
bef
ore
they
ve
finis
hed
thei
r stu
dies
, not
ably
at th
e Ro
yal A
cade
my
of F
ine
Arts
in o
f Ant
wer
p, fe
rtile
gro
unds
from
whe
re
avan
t-gar
de fa
shio
n st
ems.
Certa
in e
vent
s re
alis
ed fo
r mor
e in
stitu
tiona
lised
clie
nts
at T
otem
hav
e pe
rmitt
ed th
e la
rge
publ
ic to
as
soci
ate
and
disc
over
the
crea
tion
of th
e m
ost i
nven
tive
fash
ion.
Ly
dia
Kam
itsis
, Dic
tionn
aire
in
tern
atio
nal d
e la
Mod
e. E
d. d
u Re
gard
.
- Kuk
i, th
ank
you
for a
ccep
ting
this
inte
rvie
w. I
wan
ted
to a
sk y
ou a
bout
the
impr
essi
on y
ou h
ave
read
ing
the
Helle
nic
Fash
ion
Wee
k? T
he H
elle
nic
Fash
ion
wee
k is
muc
h co
ntra
sted
: a v
ery
stro
ng w
ill po
wer
and
effo
rt to
mak
e it
inte
rnat
iona
l and
mak
e th
ings
go
roun
d. A
littl
e bi
t of a
wkw
ardn
ess,
som
e go
od
colle
ctio
ns, s
ome
less
. I th
ink
that
ther
e is
a lo
t of e
ffort
and
wor
k to
do
to m
ake
it ex
trem
ely
succ
essf
ul
in a
n in
tern
atio
nal p
oint
of v
iew
, but
the
basi
s is
her
e. T
here
are
a lo
t of g
ood
elem
ents
that
nee
d to
be
supe
rvis
ed a
nd p
ushe
d to
a h
ighe
r lev
el.
- Wha
t pot
entia
ls d
o yo
u se
e in
Gre
ece
s fa
shio
n fu
ture
? W
hats
the
stra
tegy
that
nee
ds to
be
follo
wed
? I t
hink
that
wha
ts
very
inte
rest
ing
in G
reek
fash
ion
is it
s se
a si
de, a
littl
e bi
t exo
tic (n
ot in
a b
ad w
ay).
Its
that
diff
eren
ce th
at h
as to
be
culti
vate
d in
an
inte
rnat
iona
l way
with
out c
opyin
g th
e ot
her b
rand
. Tha
ts
how
the
Gree
k fa
shio
n w
ill be
not
iced
.- Y
ou a
re h
ead
of T
otem
, one
of t
he m
ost r
ecog
nize
d pr
ess
offic
es-s
how
room
s in
the
wor
ld. W
as it
har
d fo
r you
to s
tart
and
final
ly re
achi
ng th
e le
vel y
ou a
re o
n to
day?
It w
as
a lo
t of w
ork
sinc
e 25
yea
rs. I
ts
all a
bout
cho
ices
: mak
e th
e rig
ht o
nes
from
the
star
t in
orde
r to
be
posi
tione
d ho
w w
e w
ant t
o be
. The
n, n
ever
cha
nge
from
the
star
ting
poin
t. On
my
side
, it
has
alw
ays
been
abo
ut w
orkin
g w
ith b
rillia
nt d
esig
ners
: the
com
mer
cial
and
mas
s m
arke
t pr
oduc
ts n
ever
inte
rest
ed m
e. I
built
Tot
em th
e sa
me
way
as
an a
rt co
llect
or.
- Wha
ts a
n ag
ents
resp
onsi
bilit
y? D
urin
g th
e Fa
shio
n W
eek
in A
then
s, I
witn
esse
d yo
ur c
are
for t
he p
eopl
e yo
u re
pres
ent,
the
gues
t des
igne
rs o
f Ath
ens,
and
als
o yo
ur p
ositi
ve e
nerg
y an
d he
lp to
mak
e ev
eryt
hing
wor
k.. M
y re
spon
sibi
lity
is
that
eve
ryth
ing
wor
ks c
orre
ctly:
Tha
t the
peo
ple
for w
ho I
wor
k ar
e gl
ad a
nd
the
jour
nalis
ts a
re in
tere
sted
in w
hat t
hey
com
e fro
m. I
n fa
ct, i
ts
all a
bout
not
di
sapp
oint
ing
peop
le.
- Wha
t are
you
look
ing
for i
n a
desi
gner
s w
ork?
Wha
t Im
look
ing
for i
s su
rpris
e, a
ston
ishm
ent.
You
have
to k
now
that
I w
ork
full-
time
in fa
shio
n si
nce
mor
e th
an 2
5 ye
ars
now
. Iv
e se
en a
lot o
f thi
ngs
so I
beca
me
mor
e an
d m
ore
dem
andi
ng a
bout
that
.- H
ow d
o yo
u ch
oose
who
s ri
ght f
or T
otem
and
who
s n
ot?
I wan
ted
to
know
how
dem
ocra
tic c
an y
ou b
e be
twee
n th
e pe
ople
you
repr
esen
t?
Each
clie
nt is
trea
ted
the
sam
e, I
can
t mak
e it
anot
her w
ay. I
cho
ose
each
des
igne
r, an
d co
ntin
ue to
do
so, i
n an
equ
ilibra
ted
bala
nce
betw
een
crea
tivity
and
bus
ines
s po
tent
ials
. - H
ow im
porta
nt is
team
wor
k fo
r you
? It
s ve
ry im
porta
nt o
f cou
rse:
al
one,
we
alw
ays
have
lim
ited
capa
city
. Tea
mw
ork
allo
ws
mul
tiplie
d st
reng
th a
nd p
ossi
bilit
ies.
- Out
of a
ll th
e cr
eato
rs y
ou re
pres
ente
d so
far,
who
rem
aine
d lo
yal t
o yo
ur c
olla
bora
tion
and
vice
ver
sa?
You
have
to u
nder
stan
d th
at fa
shio
n is
a
very
cha
ngin
g en
viron
men
t, an
d so
unf
aith
ful.
Its
bette
r to
mak
e th
at re
port
very
soo
n, s
o yo
u w
ont
be
disi
llusi
oned
. To
answ
er y
our q
uest
ion,
peo
ple
like
Wal
ter V
an B
eire
ndon
ck, R
af, S
imon
s, V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho,
Ber
nhar
d W
illhel
m o
r AF
Van
devo
rst a
re lo
yal t
o m
e.- W
hat h
appe
ned
to Y
azbu
key
or T
aral
is fo
r exa
mpl
e? W
hen
and
how
doe
s co
llabo
ratio
n st
op fo
r you
? At
a c
erta
in p
oint
, pat
hs s
plit
for m
ultip
le re
ason
s
(fina
ncia
l pro
blem
, opi
nion
diff
eren
ces
). It
has
been
this
cas
e fo
r Yaz
buke
y or
Ta
ralis
.- W
here
is fa
shio
n go
ing?
Fas
hion
goe
s ba
dly!
The
col
lect
ions
are
bor
ing,
too
muc
h co
mm
erci
al, m
arke
ting.
All
the
colle
ctio
ns lo
ok th
e sa
me,
onl
y th
e la
bel c
hang
es.
Fash
ion
has
to c
hang
e, fi
nd it
s fre
shne
ss a
nd c
reat
ivity
, so
peop
le w
ill be
inte
rest
ed in
it
agai
n.- M
ost o
f the
des
igne
rs y
ou re
pres
ent a
re a
nyth
ing
but F
renc
h: M
ario
s Sc
hwab
, Will
helm
, Aro
ra,
Vand
evor
st?
Why
? W
hat m
akes
them
so
spec
ial a
part
from
thei
r wor
k? T
he p
robl
em is
that
ther
e w
as n
o in
cred
ible
Fren
ch d
esig
ner t
hat c
ame
out s
ince
20
year
s. F
renc
h fa
shio
n sc
hool
s w
ere
at a
ver
y di
sapp
oint
ing
level
and
noth
ing
good
cam
e ou
t fro
m th
em. T
hats
why
I se
arch
ed e
very
whe
re e
lse b
ut th
ere.
- Wha
t is
Fash
ion
Inte
llect
ualis
m fo
r you
? No
thin
g, it
s a
ver
y pr
eten
tious
form
ula
that
I fo
und
parti
cula
rly
ridic
ulou
s. F
or m
e, F
ashi
on is
an
appl
ied
art,
and
has
noth
ing
to d
o w
ith in
telle
ctua
lism
.- W
hat i
s To
tem
s p
rofil
e? H
ow h
ard
it is
for y
ou to
kee
p a
valid
exi
sten
ce in
a w
orld
that
is c
hang
ing
so fa
st?
Tote
m is
an
inte
rnat
iona
l pre
ss a
nd p
ublic
rela
tions
, ver
y cr
eativ
e th
at re
pres
ents
a s
elec
tion
of th
e be
st d
esig
ners
of t
he m
omen
t, fo
r the
bes
t mag
azin
es, s
tylis
ts a
nd p
hoto
grap
hers
. The
onl
y w
ay to
con
tinue
is
to k
eep
an e
ye o
n w
hat
s go
ing
on
and
refre
sh re
gula
rly a
nd c
ompl
ete
the
sele
ctio
n of
des
igne
rs th
at w
orth
to b
e hi
ghlig
hted
.- D
o yo
u th
ink
tech
nolo
gy h
elps
the
fash
ion
indu
stry
? A
lot!
Fash
ion
need
s to
take
in c
ount
all
the
evol
utio
n of
new
te
chno
logy
to b
e m
ore
succ
essf
ul a
nd
shar
pene
d it
s a
fund
amen
tal t
hing
.- V
IKTO
R&RO
LF o
r Cha
laya
n us
e te
chno
logy
in th
eir w
ork
quite
ofte
n.
Coul
d al
l the
se m
echa
nica
l clo
thes
be
com
e th
e pr
otag
onis
ts o
f the
futu
re?
Certa
inly
not h
ave
thes
e tw
o de
sign
ers
prop
osed
it, b
ut I
thin
k th
at re
ason
able
de
clen
sion
s w
ill be
real
istic
in th
e fu
ture
.- A
re y
ou a
fraid
of t
he fu
ture
? Ce
rtain
ly no
t! In
a g
ener
al w
ay, I
m a
qui
te
unsa
tisfie
d pe
rson
so
I put
a lo
t of h
ope
in
futu
re.
- If y
ou h
ad th
e ch
ance
to b
e a
spec
tato
r of
you
r ow
n lif
e, w
hat w
ould
you
see
, th
ink
abou
t you
. Who
are
you
in y
our
own
wor
ds?
I thi
nk th
at I
wou
ld s
ee
som
ebod
y th
at h
ad w
orke
d to
o m
uch,
th
at g
ave
too
muc
h tim
e an
d en
ergy
to h
is
wor
k an
d no
t eno
ugh
for h
imse
lf.- W
hat i
s th
e di
ffere
nce
betw
een
clot
hes
we
see
in m
useu
ms
com
pare
d to
wha
t one
can
see
in a
sho
wro
om?
Its
just
a q
uest
ion
of e
ditin
g, c
onte
xt
and
pres
enta
tion.
The
clo
thes
rem
ain
the
sam
e.- W
hat i
s lo
ve a
nd fr
iend
ship
for y
ou?
Two
thin
gs th
at I
had
neve
r kno
wn
how
to
man
age.
pi
Esm
ond,
1
982,
pi
,
fa
shio
n illu
stra
tion
pi
18
20
.
Kuki
de S
alver
tes
pi
pre
ss a
ttach
s
chin
o, pi
pi
pi
198
9. pi
1
989
1
991,
pi
Tpi
Vivie
nne
Wes
twoo
d,
pi
pi
Mar
cel M
aron
giu
Alai
n M
ikli,
pi
198
4.pi
199
2,
pi
Tote
m P
ress
Offi
ce, pi
Patri
ck G
iraul
t,
pi
ava
nt-g
arde
: Jer
emy
Scot
t, Ol
ivier
The
yske
ns, B
enoi
t Ml
ard,
Raf
Sim
ons,
Ve
roni
que
Bran
quin
ho, B
ernh
ard
Willh
elm, W
alter
Van
Beir
endo
nck,
Brun
o Pi
eter
s, A.
F.
Vand
evor
st, H
aider
Ack
erm
ann,
Chr
istian
Wijn
ants
.
pi
d
esig
n
, pi
- pi
pi
,
pi
R
oyal
Acad
emy
of
Fine
Arts
, pi
avan
t gar
de .
pi
pi
-
Tote
m,
pi
,
pi
.
- k
i,
pi
pi
.
,
.
H
-
:
pi
pipi
pi
pi
.
pi
pi
pi
, pi
, pi
.
pi
pi
pi,
pi pipi,
pi. pi
pi
pi
pi pi
pi
pipi
. pi
pi
,
,
pi
(
pi
).
pi
pi
,
.
pi
.
-
pi
Tote
m, pi
pi
pi/
show
room
.
pipi
pi ;
pi
25
pi
.
pi-
:
pi
pi
pi
.
, pi
pi
pi
. pi
pi
,
d
esig
ners
:
pi
pi
pi
.
ot
em, pi
.-
;
,
pi
pi
pi
pi
,
des
igne
rs
pi
.
pi
.
pi
pi
,
.
,
pi
.
- pi
pi
pi
pi
, pi
pi
pi
; pi
pi
pi
pi.
pi
,
.
pi
, pi
pi
Walt
er V
an B
eiren
donc
k, Ra
f Sim
ons,
Vero
niqu
e Br
anqu
inho
, Ber
nhar
d W
illhelm
A
F Va
ndev
orst
pi
.-
pi
;
pi
!
, pi
pi
.
,
labe
ls
. pi
pi
,
,
pi
.
-
; Tpi,
pi
pi
pipi
pi
-
.
.
- pi
To
tem
;
,
-
pi
pi ;
Tot
em
Tpi
, pi
, pi
pi
pi
pi pi
-
,
pi
,
-
. pi
,
, -
pi
pi pi
.-
pi
,
;
!
pi
pi pi
.
-
;
!
,
pi
,
pi
pi
pi
.-
, pi
;
;
pi
pi
pi
pi pi
, pi
pi pi
.
-
pi pi
pi
pi pi
show
room
;
editin
g,
pi
pi
. pi
.-
pi
;
pi pi
.
-
BLB@
Gra
duat
e of
Esm
od in
198
2 m
ajor
ing
in fa
shio
n an
d fa
shio
n illu
stra
tion,
and
cos
tum
e an
d fa
shio
n hi
stor
y of
the
18th
, 19t
h an
d 20
th c
entu
ry.
Kuki
de S
alver
tes
debu
ted
as p
ress
atta
ch
at M
osch
ino,
whe
re h
e w
as in
cha
rge
of th
e Eu
rope
en m
arke
t unt
il 19
89. F
rom
198
9 to
199
1 he
ass
umed
the
resp
onsib
lities
of i
nter
natin
al pr
ess
atta
ch
at V
ivien
ne W
estw
ood,
all
the
whi
le fre
e lan
cing
on
the
the
side
since
198
4 w
ith M
arce
l Mar
ongi
u an
d Al
ain M
ikli, s
ince
198
4As
of 1
992,
at t
he c
ente
r of T
otem
Pre
ss O
ffice
, cre
ated
with
Pat
rick
Gira
ult,
he c
ontri
bute
d to
the
laun
ches
an
d to
the
noto
riety
of n
umer
ous
avan
t-gar
de d
esig
ners
: Je
rem
y Sc
ott,
Olivi
er T
heys
kens
, Ben
oit M
la
rd, R
af S
imon
s, V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho,
Ber
nhar
d W
illhel
m,
Wal
ter V
an B
eire
ndon
ck, B
runo
Pie
ters
, A.F
. Van
devo
rst,
Haid
er A
cker
man
n,Ch
ristia
n W
ijnan
ts.
Fuel
ed b
y a
genu
ine
pass
ion
for d
esig
n an
d cr
eatio
n, h
e re
gula
rily
dete
cts
new
tale
nts
even
bef
ore
they
ve
finis
hed
thei
r stu
dies
, not
ably
at th
e Ro
yal A
cade
my
of F
ine
Arts
in o
f Ant
wer
p, fe
rtile
gro
unds
from
whe
re
avan
t-gar
de fa
shio
n st
ems.
Certa
in e
vent
s re
alis
ed fo
r mor
e in
stitu
tiona
lised
clie
nts
at T
otem
hav
e pe
rmitt
ed th
e la
rge
publ
ic to
as
soci
ate
and
disc
over
the
crea
tion
of th
e m
ost i
nven
tive
fash
ion.
Ly
dia
Kam
itsis
, Dic
tionn
aire
in
tern
atio
nal d
e la
Mod
e. E
d. d
u Re
gard
.
- Kuk
i, th
ank
you
for a
ccep
ting
this
inte
rvie
w. I
wan
ted
to a
sk y
ou a
bout
the
impr
essi
on y
ou h
ave
read
ing
the
Helle
nic
Fash
ion
Wee
k? T
he H
elle
nic
Fash
ion
wee
k is
muc
h co
ntra
sted
: a v
ery
stro
ng w
ill po
wer
and
effo
rt to
mak
e it
inte
rnat
iona
l and
mak
e th
ings
go
roun
d. A
littl
e bi
t of a
wkw
ardn
ess,
som
e go
od
colle
ctio
ns, s
ome
less
. I th
ink
that
ther
e is
a lo
t of e
ffort
and
wor
k to
do
to m
ake
it ex
trem
ely
succ
essf
ul
in a
n in
tern
atio
nal p
oint
of v
iew
, but
the
basi
s is
her
e. T
here
are
a lo
t of g
ood
elem
ents
that
nee
d to
be
supe
rvis
ed a
nd p
ushe
d to
a h
ighe
r lev
el.
- Wha
t pot
entia
ls d
o yo
u se
e in
Gre
ece
s fa
shio
n fu
ture
? W
hats
the
stra
tegy
that
nee
ds to
be
follo
wed
? I t
hink
that
wha
ts
very
inte
rest
ing
in G
reek
fash
ion
is it
s se
a si
de, a
littl
e bi
t exo
tic (n
ot in
a b
ad w
ay).
Its
that
diff
eren
ce th
at h
as to
be
culti
vate
d in
an
inte
rnat
iona
l way
with
out c
opyin
g th
e ot
her b
rand
. Tha
ts
how
the
Gree
k fa
shio
n w
ill be
not
iced
.- Y
ou a
re h
ead
of T
otem
, one
of t
he m
ost r
ecog
nize
d pr
ess
offic
es-s
how
room
s in
the
wor
ld. W
as it
har
d fo
r you
to s
tart
and
final
ly re
achi
ng th
e le
vel y
ou a
re o
n to
day?
It w
as
a lo
t of w
ork
sinc
e 25
yea
rs. I
ts
all a
bout
cho
ices
: mak
e th
e rig
ht o
nes
from
the
star
t in
orde
r to
be
posi
tione
d ho
w w
e w
ant t
o be
. The
n, n
ever
cha
nge
from
the
star
ting
poin
t. On
my
side
, it
has
alw
ays
been
abo
ut w
orkin
g w
ith b
rillia
nt d
esig
ners
: the
com
mer
cial
and
mas
s m
arke
t pr
oduc
ts n
ever
inte
rest
ed m
e. I
built
Tot
em th
e sa
me
way
as
an a
rt co
llect
or.
- Wha
ts a
n ag
ents
resp
onsi
bilit
y? D
urin
g th
e Fa
shio
n W
eek
in A
then
s, I
witn
esse
d yo
ur c
are
for t
he p
eopl
e yo
u re
pres
ent,
the
gues
t des
igne
rs o
f Ath
ens,
and
als
o yo
ur p
ositi
ve e
nerg
y an
d he
lp to
mak
e ev
eryt
hing
wor
k.. M
y re
spon
sibi
lity
is
that
eve
ryth
ing
wor
ks c
orre
ctly:
Tha
t the
peo
ple
for w
ho I
wor
k ar
e gl
ad a
nd
the
jour
nalis
ts a
re in
tere
sted
in w
hat t
hey
com
e fro
m. I
n fa
ct, i
ts
all a
bout
not
di
sapp
oint
ing
peop
le.
- Wha
t are
you
look
ing
for i
n a
desi
gner
s w
ork?
Wha
t Im
look
ing
for i
s su
rpris
e, a
ston
ishm
ent.
You
have
to k
now
that
I w
ork
full-
time
in fa
shio
n si
nce
mor
e th
an 2
5 ye
ars
now
. Iv
e se
en a
lot o
f thi
ngs
so I
beca
me
mor
e an
d m
ore
dem
andi
ng a
bout
that
.- H
ow d
o yo
u ch
oose
who
s ri
ght f
or T
otem
and
who
s n
ot?
I wan
ted
to
know
how
dem
ocra
tic c
an y
ou b
e be
twee
n th
e pe
ople
you
repr
esen
t?
Each
clie
nt is
trea
ted
the
sam
e, I
can
t mak
e it
anot
her w
ay. I
cho
ose
each
des
igne
r, an
d co
ntin
ue to
do
so, i
n an
equ
ilibra
ted
bala
nce
betw
een
crea
tivity
and
bus
ines
s po
tent
ials
. - H
ow im
porta
nt is
team
wor
k fo
r you
? It
s ve
ry im
porta
nt o
f cou
rse:
al
one,
we
alw
ays
have
lim
ited
capa
city
. Tea
mw
ork
allo
ws
mul
tiplie
d st
reng
th a
nd p
ossi
bilit
ies.
- Out
of a
ll th
e cr
eato
rs y
ou re
pres
ente
d so
far,
who
rem
aine
d lo
yal t
o yo
ur c
olla
bora
tion
and
vice
ver
sa?
You
have
to u
nder
stan
d th
at fa
shio
n is
a
very
cha
ngin
g en
viron
men
t, an
d so
unf
aith
ful.
Its
bette
r to
mak
e th
at re
port
very
soo
n, s
o yo
u w
ont
be
disi
llusi
oned
. To
answ
er y
our q
uest
ion,
peo
ple
like
Wal
ter V
an B
eire
ndon
ck, R
af, S
imon
s, V
eron
ique
Bra
nqui
nho,
Ber
nhar
d W
illhel
m o
r AF
Van
devo
rst a
re lo
yal t
o m
e.- W
hat h
appe
ned
to Y
azbu
key
or T
aral
is fo
r exa
mpl
e? W
hen
and
how
doe
s co
llabo
ratio
n st
op fo
r you
? At
a c
erta
in p
oint
, pat
hs s
plit
for m
ultip
le re
ason
s
(fina
ncia
l pro
blem
, opi
nion
diff
eren
ces
). It
has
been
this
cas
e fo
r Yaz
buke
y or
Ta
ralis
.- W
here
is fa
shio
n go
ing?
Fas
hion
goe
s ba
dly!
The
col
lect
ions
are
bor
ing,
too
muc
h co
mm
erci
al, m
arke
ting.
All
the
colle
ctio
ns lo
ok th
e sa
me,
onl
y th
e la
bel c
hang
es.
Fash
ion
has
to c
hang
e, fi
nd it
s fre
shne
ss a
nd c
reat
ivity
, so
peop
le w
ill be
inte
rest
ed in
it
agai
n.- M
ost o
f the
des
igne
rs y
ou re
pres
ent a
re a
nyth
ing
but F
renc
h: M
ario
s Sc
hwab
, Will
helm
, Aro
ra,
Vand
evor
st?
Why
? W
hat m
akes
them
so
spec
ial a
part
from
thei
r wor
k? T
he p
robl
em is
that
ther
e w
as n
o in
cred
ible
Fren
ch d
esig
ner t
hat c
ame
out s
ince
20
year
s. F
renc
h fa
shio
n sc
hool
s w
ere
at a
ver
y di
sapp
oint
ing
level
and
noth
ing
good
cam
e ou
t fro
m th
em. T
hats
why
I se
arch
ed e
very
whe
re e
lse b
ut th
ere.
- Wha
t is
Fash
ion
Inte
llect
ualis
m fo
r you
? No
thin
g, it
s a
ver
y pr
eten
tious
form
ula
that
I fo
und
parti
cula
rly
ridic
ulou
s. F
or m
e, F
ashi
on is
an
appl
ied
art,
and
has
noth
ing
to d
o w
ith in
telle
ctua
lism
.- W
hat i
s To
tem
s p
rofil
e? H
ow h
ard
it is
for y
ou to
kee
p a
valid
exi
sten
ce in
a w
orld
that
is c
hang
ing
so fa
st?
Tote
m is
an
inte
rnat
iona
l pre
ss a
nd p
ublic
rela
tions
, ver
y cr
eativ
e th
at re
pres
ents
a s
elec
tion
of th
e be
st d
esig
ners
of t
he m
omen
t, fo
r the
bes
t mag
azin
es, s
tylis
ts a
nd p
hoto
grap
hers
. The
onl
y w
ay to
con
tinue
is
to k
eep
an e
ye o
n w
hat
s go
ing
on
and
refre
sh re
gula
rly a
nd c
ompl
ete
the
sele
ctio
n of
des
igne
rs th
at w
orth
to b
e hi
ghlig
hted
.- D
o yo
u th
ink
tech
nolo
gy h
elps
the
fash
ion
indu
stry
? A
lot!
Fash
ion
need
s to
take
in c
ount
all
the
evol
utio
n of
new
te
chno
logy
to b
e m
ore
succ
essf
ul a
nd
shar
pene
d it
s a
fund
amen
tal t
hing
.- V
IKTO
R&RO
LF o
r Cha
laya
n us
e te
chno
logy
in th
eir w
ork
quite
ofte
n.
Coul
d al
l the
se m
echa
nica
l clo
thes
be
com
e th
e pr
otag
onis
ts o
f the
futu
re?
Certa
inly
not h
ave
thes
e tw
o de
sign
ers
prop
osed
it, b
ut I
thin
k th
at re
ason
able
de
clen
sion
s w
ill be
real
istic
in th
e fu
ture
.- A
re y
ou a
fraid
of t
he fu
ture
? Ce
rtain
ly no
t! In
a g
ener
al w
ay, I
m a
qui
te
unsa
tisfie
d pe
rson
so
I put
a lo
t of h
ope
in
futu
re.
- If y
ou h
ad th
e ch
ance
to b
e a
spec
tato
r of
you
r ow
n lif
e, w
hat w
ould
you
see
, th
ink
abou
t you
. Who
are
you
in y
our
own
wor
ds?
I thi
nk th
at I
wou
ld s
ee
som
ebod
y th
at h
ad w
orke
d to
o m
uch,
th
at g
ave
too
muc
h tim
e an
d en
ergy
to h
is
wor
k an
d no
t eno
ugh
for h
imse
lf.- W
hat i
s th
e di
ffere
nce
betw
een
clot
hes
we
see
in m
useu
ms
com
pare
d to
wha
t one
can
see
in a
sho
wro
om?
Its
just
a q
uest
ion
of e
ditin
g, c
onte
xt
and
pres
enta
tion.
The
clo
thes
rem
ain
the
sam
e.- W
hat i
s lo
ve a
nd fr
iend
ship
for y
ou?
Two
thin
gs th
at I
had
neve
r kno
wn
how
to
man
age.
;
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