υGΕΝΙΑ SALZA PRΙNATranslated by Ruth Anne Lotero

RιCοΤΤι

VIEALS AI{D RECIPESFROM ANCIENT GREECE

]

J, PAUL GΕττΥ Ν,ι USEUM, LoS ANGELES

C oNTENTS

PART Ι: INTRODUCTION

Homer: The First Allusions to Food and lts PreparationThe Golden Age Banquet

Domesdc Dining from the Fifth Century Onl,ηrard

Wedding Banquets

Greek Menus

Regional Gastronomy and Customs

Hellenism and Alexandel the Great

Expenses

Wine and the Symposium

Bibliography

Ρ-ξ,RΤ ΙΙ: RECIPES

Breads and Flour-Based Foods

Sauces and Condiments for Bread

Appetizers,

Soups andYegetables

Meat

Seafood

Desserts

Condiments, Flavorings, and Seasonings

Index

Ι

2

6

8

Ι4

Ι7

2ο

25

Ζ,6

Ζ8

33

35

36

42

44

53

6ο

7τ

Ιο2

ιι8

Ι2τ

INTTRODUCTIONT

rom τhe age of Achilles to Alexander the Greaτ: over α τhousand years, and such

α great span of history. And not just the courtly history of battles, plagues, kings,

:},Iants, and great oratols, but also the plodding, daily history of common people

:r),ing το make τhε most out of life.

i\-e can 1οοΚ back οη ancient Greek life through ßτs epic and rηride-ranging Ιßτeτα-

.ure, ßη which αΙ1 subjects, including daily life, are explored. Iη τhßò liτeraτure rηre

:rιd α r,ηrealth of information about ancient Greek meals, Ιτοm τhose hosτed by τhe

\I1,cenaean kings to the fantastic banquets of the lαsτ sovereigns of τhε Hellenisτic

:τα. There are thousands of passages dealing with food and dining, eyerything fτom

:ιiquette to menu planning. We are fortunate indeed τhατ αlmοsτ αΙ1 τhε auτhors of::re Hellenisτic age-geographers, storytellers, chroniclers of history poets, or,

:εsτ of αΙ], comic r.ηzriters-rηrroie about food, banquets, and r,vine. (Inτriguingly,

Jmost αΙΙ of τhese rnrriters included voluntary purging as α topic.) Other scholars

:ompiled books whose sole theme \Λ/αs τhe kitchen and ßτs ingredienτs. We have evi_

:ence of τητεlΙ over t\η/enty ryorks specializing ßη cuisine of rηrhich, υηfοττυηατεΙγ,

-,ηΙγ α handful have suryived.

, he most important and complete of the surviving texts is the rηrork of α Greek

.:holar, Aτhenaeus. Leaving behind his native Naucraτis ßη Εgγρτ, Aτhenaeus moved

ι Rome ßη the second century B.c. to become the librarian of Ρ Livy Larensis, α rich:,ιrzen, α descendent ofVarro, and the ο\Λ/ηετ of αη immense library. This job furτ

lshed the scholar urith α maτvelous opportunity to compile, r,ιriτh loving care, hisºlmense rηrork entitled The Deipnosophists (Deipnosophisτae means "]earned banqueτ"), α

::eaiise dlvided into fifτeen books and dedicaτed το his benefacτor. Wßτhßη τhe pages oflle Deipnosophists, rηre not οηΙγ find the most deτailed noτes αbουτ αηòßεητ Greek food

and cookery fτοm τhe τimes of Homer forrnrard, but rηre are also informed about horηr

much and τητhατ rηras served ατ banquets elserηrhere along the Mediterranean coast.

Indeed, τlre curiosiτy of Greek auτhors did not end αt the shores of their sea, but

exτended ßητο τhe far reaches οf τhε Κηοlητη world. Megasthenes, α Greek author of the

Hellenisτic era lvho arτived ßη India folloιving Alexander the Great, described rηrhat

τhe Indians ατe and hοτητ τhe food rηras served. Iη his second book, Indika ("History of

india"), he recounτs τhατ ßη τhατ far-off land α lor,ηr table was set nexΙ to each guest,

and οη ßτ rvas placed α golden bourl filled to the brim rηrith boiled rice and α number

of sτrongly spiced meατ sauces.This shor.ηrs that even ßη the fourth century B.C.,Indian

food rηras based οη curry sauces.

Megasτhenes \Λ/αò ηοτ τhe οηΙγ αυτhοι το \η/ιßtε of distant peoples and their eating

habiτs. Iη τhe many diverse τεχτò examined by Athenaeus, authors discussed the foods

and banqueτs of peoples from India to Spain: Celts, Germans, Thracians, Persians,

ancienτ Syrians, Egypτians, and Parτhians.They even cite the mysterious and (as far as

τhe Greeks \Λ/eτε concerned) υττετΙγ uncivilized Etruscans, Ιη ιheir rvritings, the

Alexandrian rheτoricians and grammarians ridiculed the Phoenician habit of eating

smoked fish, criτiqued Ετhßορßαη cumin, and disdained Babylonian apples; and rnrhile

τhey commenτed unfavorabiy οη τhe immorality of ιhe effeminaie men of Babylonia,

they effused over τhe luxury οf τheir dining habits. Iη sum, Greek r,ηrriτers had

explored and commenτed οη τhε food, cookerμ gardens, farms, fisheries, leavenings,

and condimenτs of τhε Κηοτητη τητοτld, and Athenaeus, τereading and synιhesizing the

τeχτò of τhese r.ηrriτers, broughτ αΙΙ τhε gastronomical facts and stories together ßη his

anthology, α ma]or r.ηrork thατ is sτßßΙ interesting, fluid, and easy to read today.

HOMER: ΤΗΕ FlRST ALLUSIONSΤΟ FOOD AND ΙΤS PREPARAΤΙON

Our knoιnrledge of Greek food and εατßηg habits begins rπrith the Homeric poetic cycle:

The lliad and The Odyssey. Βοιh r.ηrorks ατε of course attributed to the blind οταtοτ,

Homer, bυτ ßη fαòτ τhεγ ττεατ τ\Λ/ο distinct time periods, something that becomes abun-

dantly clear rηrhen one examines the differences ßη τhε habiτs of hearτh and homebetrηreen the tτητο poems.

Το begin r,vith, ßη The lllad, men sat dοιητη ßο eaτ (Aιhenaeus ι.ιιff ,),lηrhereas τhe

reclining couch r,ηras used ßη The Odyssey; such couches were ηοτ γeτ Κηοινη ßη τhe era

of The lliad. Iη the firsτ poem, daily life r,ηras conducτed r,viτh greaι simpliciτy. Ατ dinnerbeneath theTrojan rηralls, the men ate chunks of beef roasτed over αη open fire. Ατ τhis

point ßη history meat \Λ/αs ali,ιrays roasted; it seems that ηο other cooking meτhods

ιητeτe knolηrn. Antiphanes, α Middle Comedy poet, joked τhατ Homer never had soup οτ

α bßτ of boiled meat plepared for his heroes. "He ryas so primitive," added the comic,

"τhατ he even had tripe roasted!" Goat and lamb rηrere also eaten, but Priam, after his

more heroic sons lrave died, bemoans the fact that αΙΙ the offspring he has left are "the

disgraces, τhe liars and the dancers, . . , the plunderers of their orπn people ßη their

land of lambs and kids" (Jliad Ζ4,Ζ6ι-6Ζ), Ιη all probability he rnras less indignant at

τheir plundering τhαη ατ τhε idea τhαι his sons \Λ/ere εατßηg food fit οηlγ for r,ιreak

females: τhε heroes and defendeτs of the country should be eating οηlγ bloody steak

and undiluιed ιητßηe, comestibles that r,ηrere thought to keep soldiers strong and render

τhem fiτ and keen for bατιΙe.

The heroes of the Trojan War also consumed great loayes of bread served ßη huge

baskeτs. But, according to Athenaeus, bread \η/as never served at dinner, α meal that

consisτed οηΙγ of beef, As α beveτage, red and even black rnrine rnras offered ßη expan-

sive cups-a fact that, given the enyironment, could be said to be heroic indeed.

Cheese is menτioned, though rarely, but ßη α predominantly pastoral civilization it

is οηΙγ natural that cheese rπas made and eaten. Grated goat cheese mixed r,ηrith

Pramnian rηrine-red, full-bodied, and heavy-rηras offered to the healeτ Machaon

by Nesτor, after the former was urounded ßη the shoulder. This mixture \Λ/αs apparently

ιhουghτ το give the body special sustenance: α forerunner, perhaps, of our modern

blood τransfusions. Το render it more palatable and τempt the rηrounded hero tο

sιηταΙΙοτητ it, Machaon rvas given αη οηßοη ιο munch betrηreen gulps of τrine (Iliad

ττ ,6Ζ9* 35).

Olive οß1 rηras also most important. It \Δ/αs then the basic seasoning for food and

remained so υητß1 τhε end of αηιßqυßτγ, Ιη ruined palaces of this period-for example,

τhose alleged το be from τhε reign of Nestor at Pylos, going back thirty-three hundred

years-\Λ/e find τraces of large doloi (vats) used to hold οßΙ, as τητεΙ1 as clay tablets ßη the

ancienτ urriτing sysτem of Linear Β τhαt served for bookkeeping ßη that remote era,

Alτhough flsh filled τhε Mediτerranean Sea, then as nornr, and the people of the coast

harvesτed ßτ ßη greaτ qυαητßτßεò, fish dlshes are completely absent from the tables of the

Trojan\Λhr heroes. Iτ is ηοτ τhατ Homer ignored iis existence: ßη The lliad, he describes

τhe Hellesponτ as α sea abounding ßη fish. This fact ßη itself preciudes the notion that

not so much as α sardine \ηιαs to be found οη α Greek hero's table. But Homer's

descripτions lack ηοτ οηΙγ fish, but αΙΙ fish products, as vrell as fruits and vegetables,

alτhough among the common people such lood uras surely abundantly represented

at mealtimeS.

Ιτ could be conjecτured τhατ such foods \η/ετε ηοt considered \Δτοτthγ of the mythicai

god-heroes, τητhο r,ηrere the sτuff of legend. It is rηrell to remember that the gods,

according to mythologμ dined exclusively οη nectar and ambrosia; this may have led

το τhe pIesumpτion ιhατ τhe heroes rηrere nourished οηΙγ by elevated foodstuffs such as

beeζ bread, and sτrong wine. There is archaeological evidence that this god-king diet

rnras, ßη fαòτ, also τhε choice oΓreal kings and their courts during this historical period.

Ιη the remains of the vast Mycenaean throne rooms, οτ megalons-for example, those

of "Agamemnon" ατ Mycenae and of "Nestor" at Pylos-there are signs τhατ mεατ

r,ιras α principal food of the τογα1 rnrarriors of the Bronze Age. Large, squat benches are

arrayed around immense hearths, capacious enough for αη entire οχ; there, elborηr-to-

εlbοτητ, τhε king and his courτ mighτ personally prepare their suppers rηrhile discussing

governmenτ affairs. Such grand hearιhs r.ιrere hardly the place to poach α filet of sole.

When \η/ε come to The Odysseμ r.ιre find that life had changed considerably since the

τßmε of The lliad. According το τhε latest ideas, The Odyssey is α retelling of αη eighth-

centuIy "chanson de geste " into rvhich α number of later elements rvere incorporated,

Certain habits persist: ηο one lητουßd have cooked and served mullet to Odysseus, for

-,sιance. Οηlγ rvhen the beleaguered heroes face starvation, as τητhεη they are stranded

- Slcily, forbidden το eat the cattle that ΑροΙlο grazed there, are they foτced tο eat f,sh

)Jl-ssey ιΖ.3òα-58).Iη fact, this Sicilian episode and the deer hunt ßη the Circe

::isode (ΒοοΚ ιο) are the οηΙγ times Odysseus and his cre\ηr Tesorted to fishing and

_lnting: ηο mention of fish appeaIs elserηrhere.

Ξ:ι ßη oτher respecτs, the world that The Odyssey descτibes ηο longer resembles that of.:eTroianWar. For one thing, the characters ηο]π consume their meals sprarvled οη

.'le famed τriclinium couches, which came ßητο use ßη τhε Ιατε seventh to eighth cen-

,-*r1, Furτhermore, τhe Odyssean heroes \Λ/ere surrounded by beautiful handmaidens

=d rηrashed τhεßτ hands before eating; neither of these things occurred ßη The Ιliad.

, _orτiculτure had come into use, at least at the basic level of cultivating barley and,,,,,heaι. Orchards appeared, such as those found οη Scheria, the land of the Phaeaclans.

:_r example is τhe splendid and culτivated garden of Alcinous, ßη rηrhich both fruit and

''orι-ers greτr. Ιη lthaca, Odysseus's aged father, Laertes, grerv his orvn vegetables and

.alad makings, The diet \η/αs more varied and although roasted meat continued to be

,::e principal food, ßt rηras ηο longer the οηΙγ protagonist at the banquet οf this period:

,_:e monoτonous and primitive carnivorous diet of earlier times had been supplanted.

:_ greaτer varieτy of foods began το sholηr υρ even ατ royal τables. Ατ τhe same τßmε,

:ooking became more refined: after centuries of tossing eyerything οη the fire, ηειητ

,,,,,ai,s of cooking the main dish appeared. One reads, for example, "Delicacies such as

:lose offered το τhε beloved princes of Zeus," αηd "dαßητγ dishes of αΙΙ τypes"; iτems

::raι could ηοτ possibly be referring to the simpie, primitive pieces of bloody beef

:oasτed οη the great fireplaces of the megaron. Therefore, feasting must have become

:icher and more interesting, ηοt iust aimed at nourishing and strengthening the body,

ιυτ also at giving pleasure to the palate and the stomach.

ßι is likely that many of the basic Γoodstuffs preseni ßη the Golden Age of Greece rηrere

aiready found ßη the homes of the Odyssean protagonists. Yet it rηras οηΙγ ßη the period

lmmediately folloiving the sixth century thaτ α veτitable reyoluτion ßη dining led το

\Λ/hατ \Λ/e τhßηκ of as τhe τιαdßτßοηαΙ classical meal. This dining style rvas to last, vrith

slighι variaτions, for many cenτuries and inrould constitute the most popular mode of

social entertaiηment υρ το the end of classical civiiization.

During ιhe Homeric epoch, τhere rηrere obviously not the sort of recipes that Tequired

α long 1ßòτ of ingredienτs and insτrucτions: meat ιηταs throrvn οη the fire, ßη αΙ1 likeli-

hood rnrithout much added, ηοτ even α sprig of rosemary. Large baskeτs conιained

mammoτh loaves of bread-unleavened, since yeast \Λras not yet ßη use. It was basically

α τough life, bυτ τhen heroes rnrere also tough, and doubtless they did not \Λ/οττγ much

about such trifles.

ΤΗΕ GOLDEN AGE BANQUET

The classic Goiden Age banqueτ found its beginnings ßη the fifτh cenτury B.c. Νο

longer rπas fire-roasτed mεατ τhε reigning dish. Rather, fish triumphed ßη the kitchen,

becoming τhe main dish: α procession οf filet οf bream, bass, tuna, and lobster vrith α

ναòτ array of mollusks: oystels, razor clams, sea urchins-as many as one could offer,

This rπas τhe beginning also of τhε golden age οf the fishmonger, rvho conquered the

markets of the great City-States.

It is the sea's bounty thaτ preoccupies one of the most expert gastronomes of the

Hellenistic world, τhe Sicilian r,ηrriτer Archesτraτus of Gela. The mαjοτßτγ of his

Hedupaτheia ("The Joys of Εατßηg") is devoted to rnrhere to find and hοτητ to cook the

besτ fish; α kind of early Michelin guide, giving ουt stars. But this is ηο mere recipe

book or gasτronomic guide: ßτ is αη epic verse, stylized ßη heroic hexameter, so beau-

τßfυΙ and sonorous τhατ Aτhenaeus declared the Hedupatheia vras the οηßγ poem that r,ιrise

men should cherish. Whατ is more, it \Mas truly useful. Before instructing the reader

οη horηr το cook α slice of tuna or make α pie out of odds and ends, Archestratus gives

precious advice and ouτlines hο\Λ/ to organize αη elegant and lively ραττγ:

"Of leaτning Ι offer proof το αΙΙ Hellas. . . . Let αΙΙ dine at α single daintily-furnished

ταbΙe. There should be τhree or four ßη αΙΙ, or at most not more than five. Else rηre

should presenτly have α τεητfυΙ of freebooters, robbers of victuals" (Athenaeus I.4e).

Then he moves οη to discuss urhat should be presented αt α meal, Above αΙΙ, one

should ηοτ forget the rηrreaths for the guests'heads: "Alr.ιrays cτο\Λ/η yourself urith α

r,ηrreaτh of αßΙ τhε flornrers that the h"ppy earth produces and perfume γουτ haiτ urith

α distilled ointment."

The vrreaths aTe not αη incidental detail, We see these crornrns οη guests' heads, both

ßη ancienτ frescoes and ßη every fllm that attempts to ftanspoτt us back to the ancient

world. They urere αη integral part of these gatherings and every guest \Δ/ore one,

Obviously, there r.ηrere a]so the beautiful coronets of pure gold, novr seen ßη museums,

ιητhßòh urere buried rnrith their lavishly dressed o\Λ/nels so the latter could paτticipate

ßη τhε afτerlife banqueτs, ßη vrhich they fervently believed. Βυτ τhese lustrous jewels

did not have the necessary curative ρο\Λ/ετs that flol,ηrer and leaf rnrreaths offered; these,

urhen placed οη one's temples, r.ιrere thought to protect the rηrearer from the conse-

quences of excess indulgence, due to their perfumed fragrances. It is true that such

rηrreaτhs, parιicularly τhe suave, coquettish ones made of roses and yiolets, looked

ridiculous οη the heads of old ;udges and scor,ηrling generals, and even more so οη

obese poliτicians. They certainly iooked most decolative rηrhen placed οη the curls of α

handsome youth or α beautiful girl. But el/en the old military men and fat politicians

used them to caim their headaches and guard against intoxication from too much

urine. One famous doctor, Triphonus, explained thατ the flornrer wreaths were ηοτ sim-

ρΙγ ornamental, but served to r,ηrard off drunkenness, migraines, and other maladies.

The fresh, green ßνγ cro\Λ/n that Dionysus alrnrays \Λrore οη his head gave immediate

respiτe fτοm the heat of rπine and even, perhaps by being pressed tightly against τhε

temples, from headache. Roses and violets also appear to have been beneficial: roses

urere consideτed α polπerful sedative, lvhich could instantly cure τhε fiercest migraines.

Other τypes of crorηrns might be prescribed for specific ailmenτs: τhose of henna, sage,

and saffron, for example, favored sleep and provided α lovely, restorative repose, αΙßοιητ-

ing the \Λ/εατει urho had drunk too much to arnrake refreshed and rested, It rηras also

important to vratch out for harmful ones, such as carnations, which caused headaches,

or for those made fτοm srveet marjoram, rnrhich numbed τhε mind. One had το choose

one'S \Λ/Ieath wiseΙy.

So much for the ancient "language of florηrers," Appropriate r,ηrreaths urere handed ουτ

to the guests at every banquet; later οη, during dinneτ, perfumes rnrere also dispensed,

Betrηreen flornrers and perfumes, the banquet hail must have been extremely fragrant,

bυτ even τhis \Λ/αò ηοτ enough for τhε ancients. The day before α gathering rnras to take

place, τhe dining chamber was suffused rηrith scent. Alchestratus $/rote: "Continue αlΙ

day long το τοss myrrh and fτankincense (the fruits of slηreet-smelling Syria) οη the

sofτ ashes of τhe fire." One need οηΙγ read this to understand the need for α good tight

cτο\η/η of ßνγ around the temples.

DOMESTΙC DΙNING FROM ΤΗΕ FΙFΤΗ CENTURY ON\VARD

\Me have looked ατ τhε dining habiτs of τhε heroic Mycenaean Greeks, and rηre have

then heard τhe rnrise counsel that, nine centuτies later, Archestratus gave to those rηrish-

ing το organize τhε ref,ned dinners τhατ dominated the classical urorld. Α great deal

of τßmε had passed since τhε Trojan \Mar. Everything r.ιras changed; the customs were

enriched and reflned. There rηrere, of course, different types of banquets; ιhey varied

according το τhε social and inτellectual siatus of the participants, the host's r.ηrealth,

and the customs and laws οΓ the various parts of Gτeece. Μαηγ of these banquets are

described ßη τhε pages ofAτhenaeus, from the austere dinners of philosophers to

εχτταναgαητ uredding feasτs, from religious festivals to solemn traditions, from sedate

family meals τhατ were εατεη ßη τhε gynaeceum (wheτe the heads of families dined

τητßτh moτhers, rηrives, daughιers, and close female relatives) to r.ηrild, libertine, "men-

οηΙγ" repasts. ]η short, there r,ηrere meals for αΙΙ tastes and incomes.

ΤΗΕ TRANQUIL FAMILY D]NNER ΙΝ ΤΗΕ GYNAECEUM

\Me τ.ητßlΙ first examine τhe everyday meal: the regular family dinner. There are many

examples of these meals porτrayed ßη figurative art: the men are comfortably stretched

ουτ οη τheir ττßòΙßηßα, r.ηrhile τhε rηromen are seated ßη chairs at the margins of the

scene. Iη the rnrorld οf Asia Μßηοτ as rηrell as Greece, \^/omen never ate ßη α reclining

position. For this leason, rηrives and girl children are alrvays shornrn upright, r,ιrith

heads veiled, seated οη chairs \Λ/ßιh high backs and armrests, someiimes vrith foot-

stools. Clothing rηras the mοsτ corτect imaginable and even the men, contentedly rest-

ing οη their left elborv, rηrere cloτhed from neck to toes as they dined (the ancient

equivalent of rvearing α òοατ and tie).

,,pical scenes found οη grave stelai are those that repτesent life beyond the grave as α

_.:and, uninτerrupted banquet.The eternal dinner was α Ceremony Testricted to the'.mily

circle; ηο strangeIs or foreigners appeared, ryhile each and every member of

_e household ιηταs ßη aτtendance. Thus, entire families \Λ/ere depicted with their eyes

red οη τhε dead, each rnrith α cup ßη hand, crorηlded into the limited space of the

:larble relief, Ατ τimes, rvhen the memorial stone τηταs insufficiently large, the men of

:ie family appear packed like sardines, ιητhßΙε the rηromen, deprived of space and need,

_::g τhε habiτual chairs, appear to be perched like sirange birds at one corneτ of the

,:ic]inium. Ιτ rvas imperative, horηrever, that eyeryone be included r,vithin the {ταmε

.rd τhατ αΙ1 r,ηrives and daughters be correctly seated.

_ ß,{Ε UNRESTRAINED BANQUETS OF ΜΕΝ

]reek males generally left their wives to dine rηrith the children i,vhile theμ Γree from

,1e cοηòτταßητs of their loved ones, indulged ßη the unfettered bonhomie of all-male

: ιηνßνßαΙ gaτherings. These gatherings took place ßη the andron, α large room dedicated

: J τhis purpose that rηras positioned near the entrance of the androceum, the part of-,re house reserved for men only.The \^/omen οf the house-motheIs, rηrives, daugh-

,ers, unmarried sisters-could not enter the andron for αηγ reason ιvhaisoever, not

.\,en το clean it rηrhen it IMas empty. This does not mean, hoyrever, that the dinner

iuests lacked female companionship.

]he rηromen rηrho lηrere permltted to enter the andron did so οη α paid basis. They

ncluded fluτisτs and dancers, but most importantly \Λτοmεη of the oldest profession.

These rηromen, horvever, \Λ/ere not Common Street prostitutes, but rather true Courte-

sans: ref,ned, beauτiful, and very costly.They dominated the social life of ancient

Greece, playing α role similar to that of the legendary Japanese geisha. Μαηγ of them.,l,ere rπeil educaτed and rηrere even permitτed το αττεηd τhe presτigious philosophy

schools of τhε τßmε, Given theiτ bεαυτγ and high spiriτs, ßτ r.ιras easy for τhem to estab-

lish close τies τνßτh τheir professors, becoming r,vhaτ τοdαγ lιre might euphemistically

call "friends rηrith benefits." Such friendships geneτally granted them exιra evening

classes, vrhere τhε lessons covered τhε most varied subjecι mαττετ. Βγ τhe end of their

sιudies, τhese beauτiful creatures rηrould be ßητεΙΙεòτυαΙΙγ equivalenτ το τoday's dοòτοταΙ

candidaτes, as urell as adept at their most lucrative skills-those of the boudoir-for

rnrhich τhεγ rnrere jusτifiably famous, valued, and sought after,The richesτ ciiizens gοι

intobiddingwaISovelthem,andmanyvroulddrawupContIaCtSforaspecifredιin-ιe

during ιητhßòh ιhe chosen one agreed ßο accompany the man το αΙΙ his dinner palιies,

Needlesstosay,sherη.ouldalsoprovidehimι,ηrithaprolongedafτer-dinnertθte-λ-tÝιe.

Manyofthesewomen,whohadaιηrell_honedsystemforpaddingtheirbills'manage:

ioaccumulatevasifbrtunes;rnriselyinvesιed,ιheserichesallorη,edιhemuponreιire-menitotΤansfolmthemselvesintorespectablephilanιhropisιs.Inorderiounderstand

τheirimporιanceandcontributionstomen,Sbanquets,iτSuffiCeSιOSaythatAthenaeu.dedicaτed one eητßτe book of fifτeen (Βοοκ s) το iheir function, lisΙing the f,rst and

ιαòτ names and addresses of τhe high-ranking CouIτeSanS, and discussing the most

famous among τhem ßη greaι detail,

The premise of τhese mαιe banqueτs \Δ/αs, τherefore, highly promising; Ιhe guest knerv

to expect α lively evening, as joyous as ßt was outrageous, Το sιart yrith, as soon as α

guesτ arrived' he τοοκ ιt'" tιυ"ιγ of shedding his cloτhes' Once he sτreτched ουτ οττ

thecouch,hecoveredthelov,.eτhalfofhisbodywithalightdrape,butthisvrasamerenodtomodestysincethemateτialhidliττleandsιirredιηriτhτheminuιestbreeze.Thecourtesansdidnoieveιboτherrviιhadrape,puτiingtheirexpensivemerchandise

ondisplayvrithoutairaceofshame.Theafternoonrnrouldunfoldinthemostunbri-dled fashion possible,

Onecanimagineιhaιanyτhingandeverythingmighτhappenaiihesebanquets,rvhichlastedformanyhours.FromthebeginningofτhefifthCenιuryonr,ηrard,dinnerguests'

knor,ιringιheyιvereinforalongevenι,goiinthehabiιofbringingtheiτornrn..nightvases,,(chamberpots).Eupolisasked...Well,then,r,ηrhofirsτsaid.slave,achamber_

potl' ßη the midst of' his drinking?" (Aιhenaeus ι , ι 7e), This cυsτοm lasτed for cen_

turies, wiτh α few excepτions,The use of chambeτ pots \Λιαs prohibiτed during cerτain

religiousfesιiyals,suchastherlιualdinnerinhonorofApollo,heldaτNaucratis,thehomelandofourorηrnAthenaeus.TheywerealsobannedforashorιιimeundertheruleofEmperorHadτian'buττhismaybeascribedιoτhefactthaτhehadinstaιledexcellentsanitaryfaciiiτiesinhissurroundings.Otherrηrise,commodeswereaιrnrays

pIesenτ αß men'S banqueιS, We hear mεηιßοη of them right υρ Ιο the end of Ιhe

RomanEmpire'andτheymayindeedhavebeenusedevenlongerτhanτhaτ.Thesejars'

often fashioned out of precious metals, accompanied importanτ people and emperorsιο their nulnerous banquets. Iη fifth century g.C. ceramics, \Λ/ε see τhem represenιed ßη

,{uests' hands. Unfortunatelμ we also Κηοτητ that chamber ροτs \Λ/ετε used for purposesliher than the obvious ones. When too much lιrine overheated τhe aτmosphere, and

,erιain old arguments and puckish impulses arose, τhe ροτs made perfecτ projecτiles

,Dr those ß.ητhο did ηοt agree rηrith the ideas being expressed.Aeschylus, ßη one of his.aιirical comedies, imagined the Homeric heroes so drunk τhατ during α dinner τhεγregan to break their pots over each others'heads (Aτhenaeus ι.I7c), r.ιrhile Sophocles,

_r The Achaeans'Dinner-Guest, \η/τοtε: "But ßη α burst of anger he threrηr τhe unsavoury:οτ, and missed ηοτ; and οη my head the vessel smashed, breaτhing not of balsam,

ld τhε unlovely smeil smote me lviτh frlght" (Aτhenaeus ι.I7d).

'.\-e can also point to anotlrer scene common to these specτacles, οfτeη shorvn ßη

:lgurative art and liteτature: that of drunken men νοmßτßηg, lviτh τhε aid of α compii-:rι handmaiden. Το be fατ from such scenes \Λταs one benefit of τhe fαmßΙγ τvomen's

_,rcumscribed role αt this time.

ΗΕ PARASITES

]esides the courtesans, musicians, and dancers-male or female-theτe rvas yet

.:]othel inteτestlng group ofpeople αι these feasτs: the "parasiτes" or parτy-crashers.

,hese rηrere men who insinuated themselves into the feasτ, usually τνßτhουτ ßηνßτατßοη,

,nd often found themselves rηrithout α couch, forced το sßτ οη τhe floor. The ραταòßτe],ecame α stock character at ancient Greek banquets as \ηιεlΙ as fodder for τhe comediesf that era. Some of these hangers-on r,ηrere famous and even tolerated to α large

:\teΠt, because among their chaτacteristics \vere α tαlεητ for good conversaιion, α

.larp r.ιrit, and αη obliging nature. It is evidenτ τhατ τητßτhουτ τhese gifτs, such men,,, ouid find themselves alone and unable to sclounge υρ α meal. Α potential sponger,,ndertaking this path, had to demonstIate αη excepτional sense of humor and α lvill_-]gness to seτve-only the clever, fun, and useful men \Λ/eIe suffered το òταγ and eατ.

-. rvould be α mistake to think of the Greek sponger as α figure rηrho hoyered ßη τhe

:ackground at α banquet. Οη the contrarΙ he τηΖαs always visible and forrvard.:-ιhenaeus dedicated α good portion of his sixτh book το τhe mosτ famous freeloadeτsß Greece, men capable of doing anything το assure admiττance το α ryell_laden ταble.

He lisτs seveτal by τheir picτuresque nicknames:Tlτhymallus βhe Greedy), Corydus

(the Skyιark), the Goby, the Seed Pot, the Mackerel, and the Littιe Μeαιγ one

(Aτhenaeus 6,z3sfi). One \ηταò called Callimedon, oτherrnrise knorπn as τhe Lobsτeτ (or

Cτayfish); this one \η/αò So uriιdιy fond of Crustaceans that the Athenian fishmongers

proposed erecting α bronze Statue of him, eteτηαιιγ triumphant, clutching α ιobster

ßη his fisτ.

Generally if τhese parasiτes could ηοτ commandeeI α òροτ οη α couch, τhey urere ηοτ

above òßττßηg αß τhe feeτ of α guesτ, α praciice Common enough τhατ ßη one comedy r,ιre

rnriiness α young man of good connections being ambushed by α fτeeιoader \ητhßιe he

1ηταò recιining ατ α banqueτ. The ροοτ γουτh ττßeò το shake τhe inτruder off, using every

excuse he can τhßηκ of: τhe banqueτ is αι1 bυτ finished, he says, and hesides τhere is

αbòοιυτeιγ ηο Space οη his couch for anyone eιse. Βυι τhe ραταòßτe iS ηοτ το be discour_

aged. Wßτhουτ α τrace of embarrassmenτ, he says, "Νοτ το \Λ/οιτγ: τhατ'ò ηοτ ßmροτταητ

ßη τhe Ιeαòτ. Iη αηγ case," he concludes cheeτfully, "I'm α fοοτòτοοΙ kind of guy,"

DISTINCTIVE DINNERS

Platoº Dinners: Logicallμ τhere were also iiterary suppels, as there are ßη every age,

Dinners among phiιosophers, iimited to men οηlγ, r,ιrere different fτοm ιhose

described above, aS one might expect. They vrere certainιy fυιl of ßηιelιeòtυαι merit,

to be sure, bui one geτs τhe sense τhατ τhey ιιτετε hardly sparkling,

Ριαtο vrrote ßη The Repubι ic (37z,c) οf the sort of dinner that the ßdeαι citizens of the

future might share, αη austere meαι notabιy lacking ßη meat and fish. When his com_

ραηßοη Glaucon τemaτks τhατ ßτ seemed τhατ τheγ \^,/eIe το be served ηο relishes ατ τheßτ

austele meaιs, Ριαtο contradicts him: ιhey vrouιd be given such deiicacies as òαιt, oιives

(Recipe 6), and cheese, as τητeιι as ιαmραòòßοηß, the wiιd hyacinth buιbs that needed α

great deαι of artifice to heιρ them ιose their bitteτ flavor and render them edibιe

(Recipe 9).The meαι, Ριαtο assured Gιαυòοη, $/aS to be finished ofΓrηrith treats Such aS

frgs, chickpeas, and fava beans. Saτed τriιh such gasτronomicaι ττeατò, τhe guesτS rηrould

pass τheßτ τßme afτer dinner, seaied around, τhe fire, roasiing mγττΙe berτies and acorns,

rvhiιe they sipped, obviousιy ßη great moderation, \Λ/ateIed r,ηrine. What more òουιd

one ask of life?

- ,, αι Supper: Continuing ßη the realm of philosophers, \η/ε have α descripτion of_, .'l-r, equally sumptuous banquet given by Parmeniscus the Cynic. The dinneτ

., leld ατ τhe home of Cebes of Cyzicus, during τhε feast of Dionysos inAτhens-,. -.]laeus α. 156-ò8). From τητhαt r.ηre understand, there r.ηrere nine ραττßcßραητò,

i::,]ýs Parmeniscus, there rηras the o\^/nel of the house, plus six cynics, and Carneius- ].legara.

Ι .:αττ, rivers of lentil soup rπere served (Recipe ι5).They had barely finished it',Ξ] another type of lentil soup arrived (Recipe I6);next came lenτils seasonedrηriτh

' ::αι. Αt this point, one of the guests, being α Cynic and τherefore feeiing εητßτΙεd

:cspise the shabbiness of life, had reached the end of his paτience. Jumping το his'::,. rι-ith his hands upraised to the heavens, he prayed that Zeus τ.ητουΙd punish τhe

,,.1','e responsible for drornrning them ßη lentils.Tlvisting the knife furτher, αΙΙ pres-

:, -except

the host, ιηιhο r,ηras responsible for the misdeed, and one guesτ-joined: .]e prayer. One Cynic, horηrever, came to the defense of τhε lorvly ΙεητßΙ, chiding α

':, -ιι $11θst named Plutarch (not the historian Plutarch of α later cεητυτγ):"Υeτ, γου'-::] of fair Alexandria, Plutarch, have been brought υρ οη ΙεητßΙ food, and your εητßτε

- ,,. is ll of lentil dishes" (Athenaeus a.I5sd). Certainly true, but probably also the-:1>οπ ιvhy poor Plutarch had had enough of them.

_._eed, one should ηοt belittle the lentil: this greatly economical legume played α

:-,:ιor role ßη feeding the less r.ηrell-off. It seems thατ τhe οηΙγ drar.ιrback rηras τhε ηαòτγ

:.Ll ιhατ iingered οη the eater's breath, lιrhich some apparently (or perhaps apoc-

: :lraliy) tried to ameliorate by adding fragrances, Sτταττßs of Phoenicia gave τhese

' ,:ds to his characteτ Jocasta: "I rηrish tο give γου t\νο some r,ηrise advice; ι.ιrhen γου, .òε lenτil-soup don't pour ßη perfume" (Athenaeus 4, I6oc). Regarding fragrance ßη:.'ßß1 soup, there ιηταs even α Greek pτoverb, used rηrhen one r,ηranted to indicaτe τhατ

lething has gone amiss. Thus, ßη α theatrical piece by Sopaτer, α characτer exclaims,

-]dl,sseus of lthaca is here; as the saying goes, the perfume is ßη the soup. Have

, xage, my soul!" Ιη αηγ case, ientii soup may have made for bad breath, but it.:red τhe pulpose of filling the stomach, and α lentil soup is alrvays very tasty. Let

-. ηοτ forgeτ τhατ Esau transferred his birthτighτ το ]acob for α ρlατε of lentils.

\MEDDιNG BANaUETS

Οf αι1 the ιypes οf banquets, the uredding banquet \Λ/αò the most ioyous and {τee {τοm

restrictions, and rηre τνßΙ1 present α pair of exampΙes. One describes the rvedding dinner

of α miser, r,ηrhiιe τhe oτheI exempιifies α marriage feasτ given by α very τνeαιτhγ mem_

ber of α royal family, as open-handed as the miser rvas penurious,

Ιη the comedy Unveiling of the Bride (Kock 3,376;Athenaeus ιa,64ad-e), Euangelus

pTeSenιS the miserιy head of house as he orders his sιave about:

Father: Ι tοιd γου to Set fouΙ tabιes for the rηromen and six for the men; the dinner

is to be compιete, and ηοt α thing must be ιacking. We \^/ant the wedding to be

α bτßιιßαηt one.You don't need to ask questions of anyone eιse; Ι'ιι teιι γου every_

thing, keeping my eye οη γου the τηΙhßιe. As to the f,sh, γου shalι buy αlß the kinds

γου ιßκe; for tlre meat CourSeS γου have got veal, young So\^/S, suckιing_pigs, hares.

Cook's boy (aside):What α braggart this damned fellorηr is!

Father:Platteroff,g-leaves[Recipeιz],cheese,mouιdedcakes.

Cook: Βογ there, Dromon!

Father: Α Lydlan sauce, some eggò, α nice meal-cake, , ,

The lηredding feasτ hosτed by Caranus \Λ/αò αη enτirely differenτ sorτ of affair, α banqueι

served according tο the Customs of Alexander ιhe Great's homeιand. Ιη ιhat Countrμ

τhe bride and groom received gifτs from friends, bυτ τhe hοòτ also gave gifτs το τhe

guesτs. This cusτom persisτed ßητο τhe l9oos, ßη Greece and elseyrhele: guesτs ατ α ball

or α grand dinner alr.ιrays Ιefτ vriτh α SouveniT. Βυτ τhe gifτs parceled ουß το τhe parτici_

pants αß Caranus's banquet \Λ/ere ηο mere trinkets,

Turenτy guesτs-a selecτ and arisτocraτic group-came to this littie feast, rryhich rηras

desτined το go doιvn ßη hisτory, Everyτhing abouτ ßτ τΛ/αò ηοτe\Λ/οττhγ and exτraordinary,

and ßτ τηταò described ßη greaτ deταßl ßη Aτhenaeus's fourth book: the luxurious furnish-

lngs, τhe richness of τhe foods and \Λ/ines, τhe eητeιταßηmeητ τhατ brighτened τhe meal,

and, above αlι, τhe gifτs offered το τhe guesτs.The distrlbuιion of these trifles began

i.mmediaτely; indeed,, τhe guesτs had barely sprar.ιrled οη τheir couches vrhen each

':_Ξ,ßed α gift of α silver cup, as well as α golden cτο\ητη of inestimable value τhατ lηraò

.,:d οη ιhe guest's head υροη arrival.The rain of precious gifts seemed never το

:.:c: having barely emptied their cups, they vrere each offered α bronze Corinτhian-. , ιompletely covered lηrith a large loaf of bread. Arτfuliy placed on τop of τhe bread

::- chickens, ducks, doves, geese, and every kind ofmeat. Each guest accepted his

:.'. of food and, after tasting the delicacies, passed τlrem οη το τheir αττεηdαητ slaves.

,,-_.r ιhe next course ιηταs served, and each guest \η/αs presented ιηdth anoτher large

].::ιετ, this time ßη silyer and covered urith α focaccia (Recipe ι), οη ivhiclr were dis--".,.,ed roasτ kid goats (Recipe Ζι), geese, specially and individually designed sand-,_:hes, τhεη pigeons, doves, parιridges, and other wild game. Once again, after the

. _.sιs sampled these dishes, tlrey r.ιrere passed οη to the slayes. Wherr τhe guesτs had

:.:-η τhεßτ fill, τhεγ rηrashed their hands,

--: :}ιßs point, each guest ιηταs offered α flora1 cro\\In, bυτ το render τhe gifτ more lasτ-

-_,1. each rηras also given another golden cro\yn, as heavy and valuable as τhe firsτ.Then

-.:ne various toasts. The guests rηrere oyerrηrhelmed by the excitemenτ, and even more

' rl-hen the flutists, singers, and Rhodian sambuca players enτered. The girls appeaτed

be naked, but may merely have been dressed ßη very transparenτ τunics, When τhe

_:ιists left, α succession οf ner-ιr girls aτrived, each carrying τυτο jars, one silver, τhe

:,irer gold, held together by α golden band and cοηταßηßηg α liτer of perfume. These

.-so rηrere given to the guests. After this, huge, heavy, gold-plaτed silver τrays arrived,:lch bearing α pig stuffed with αΙ1 sorts of delicacies: thτushes, ducks, rηrarblers, τητhεατ

:llenta lvith egg, oysters, and perirvinkles. As alrvays, each guesτ uras given his οτ,ητη

.:αß and his οιπη pig. Then follorηred boiled kid gοατ οη precious plaτes for each το ταΚe

,,lme, ßη addiτion to golden spoons.

-lSι then, as the guests asked themselves hοιητ they could manage το carry home such

:jl arlay of gifts, Caranus ordeτed his servants το give his friends baskeτs and chesτs for.re bread; the chests lηrere fashioned from thin sτrips of ivory. The delighτed guesτs

.rpiauded. Immediately, another gold croιvn and more perfumes ßη jars arrived, ]υòτ:S costly as the previous gifts. Then follorηred the mοsτ lively enτerτainmenτ, iτhyphallic

dancers (ßη honor of Dionysos), clor.ιrns, and nude acrobats, rvho peτformed r,ηrith τhε

sharpest of sr,ηrords r.ιrhile spouting fire from their mouths.

The ραττγ \η/αs ηοτ γετ over. Iτ continued ßη grand style: gifts of gold cups and r.ιrines

{τοm Thasos, Mende, and Lesbos r,ιrere passed out, immediately follor,ιred by α crystal

ρΙαττετ for each guesτ. This ρΙαττετ \Λ/αs t\Λ/ο cubits (8ο cm) ßη diameter and rnras sup-

ported beneath by α silver τταγ, full of every type of fish and seafood imaginable

(Recipes Ζ6-+9) \Λ/ßτh ßτ came yet more silver baskets, with loaves of Capadocian

bread. When τhε guesτs had εατεη α morsel, they passed the rest tο the siaves. Again,

τhεγ washed their hands, and, ττυΙγ pampered, \Λ/ere plesented rηrith yet anoτher

golden cup, τhis one ττητßòε as heavy and valuab]e as the others. With it came another

double vase of perfumes for each guest.

They began το drink ßη earnest. One of the guests called for α gallon-sized cup, had

ßτ fllled rnriτh Thasian urine uriτh barely α drop of rηrater added, and promptly drank ßt

dorηrn, saying, "The more one drinks, the fειητετ oηe's \Λ/οεs." Caranus, full of admira-

tion for this feat, gave him τhε cup and offered to do the same for αηγ urho folloιηred

suit. ΑΙΙ tried and succeeded except for one. The lailure sat and \Λ/ept at his lack of suc-

cess, but his host consoled him by giving him α cup αηγ\^/αγ.

Meanwhile, τhe εητετταßηmεητ continued as α hundred-man chorus sang α wedding

song, follor.ιred by dancers dressed as Nereids and nymphs. Time passed pleasantly and

night fell. Suddenly the r.ηrhite linen curtains that surrounded the room flerηr open. The

amazed guests rηrere τreaτed to α remarkable scene: against the dark background of the

garden, statues appeared representing Cupids, Dianas, Pans, and Hermae, and each

held α ßßt ιorch. As the guests marveied at this sight, they rηrere each served α large lιrildboar laced υρ ττßτh silver filigree and arrayed οη α square, golden platter. For ιηrhaτever

reason, either the beauty of τhε presentation οι the gift itseli this last and most unex-

pecτed gßfτ ρυτ αΙΙ τhε guesτs ßητο τhε highest of spirits. Meanwhile, τhε slayes sτarted

to pTepare for the Teturn home, packing the gifts into the ivory chests. The guests οηΙγ

arηraited the Macedonian cusτom of trumpets heralding the close of the banquet. Yet,

still they drank, but nornr from small cups, r.ιrhile α comedian enteltained them. Finally

more ivory chests arrived, this time urith desserts-s\Λ/eets of αΙΙ types from Cretan to

]6

, . :,_,an-each pτesented ßη αη elegant box, much as sugared almonds are doled out at

-:,.'s ltalian and Greek weddings.The guests, grateful and overioyed, bid τheir hosτ

. :-bl,e, i,vishing him the best from the bοττοm of τheir hearτs.

- ro surprise, then, tο hear that Hippolochus the Macedonian, one of the guesτs,

:. . α detailed account of the banquet ßη α letter to his friend Lynceus, rvho had had

::ai-behind inAthens (Athenaeus 1.ι28-I3od).The former teased the latter saying,,. rιlrile Lynceus remained atAthens to celebrate the Lenaean festival, eating the tra,

, _,ηαΙ feast day bread, flavored rvith arugula and thyme, Hippolochus and his fellorηl

. -..τs "have carried α\η/αγ α fortune from Caranus's banquet instead οf trifling por-

, s, and are ηο\^/ looking for houses or lands or slaves to buy"

GREEK MENUS

:::αßηlγ not αΙ1 meals r.ηrere ivedding feasts, and the fare offered at α cheery dinner

, iriends rryould be less elaborate. Regardless of τhε size of τhε meal, ßτ ιvas generally-,]οτιαηt to be mindful of expenses.

- ]ELICIoUS ΥΕΤ ECONOMICAL ΜΕΝυ_ ,,. Γourth-third century poet Alexis, ßη Crateus, or The Apothecarμ gives us αη example

: -.l,hat, during his time, lηrould have been considered α simple menu, as rryell as οττε

rfΓer οη the spur of the moment to those defined ßη Greek as "friends of sαlτ and

:ins"; that is to say, those intimate fτiends urho rryou]d share α meal of jυsτ beans and

. :ιι of salt. Iη this comedy, one οf τhe characτers lisτs τητhατ he finds ατ τhε markeτ το

,::pare for such α meal:

First, then, 1 spied oysters, r,vrapped ßη searveed, ßη the shop οf αη o1d Μαη of the

Sea, and sea-ιιrchins ιοο [Recipe 8];Ι grabbed them; for they are the prelude to

α daintlly ordered dinner. Next, Τ came υροη some ΙßιtΙε fish, αΙΙ trembling for

fear of what rvas tο happen to them. But Ι bade tlιem have ηο fears as far as Ι was

concerned, promising that Ι ιι.ουldη'ß harm α sing}e one, and bought α large

greyfish. Then Ι took αη elecιric ray-fish [Recipe 38], being mindful ιhat rηlhen

α lady lays tender fingers υροη it she mιιst ηοι suffer αηγ hurt from its thorny

touch. For the frying-pan 1 got some wrasse, sole, shrimp, jack hake, gudgeon,

perch, and sea-bream, and made the dlsh gayel than α peacock. Then came some

meats-feet, snouts, and svrines'ears [Recipe ι9], and liver rvrapped ßη caul; for

it is ashamed of ßτs ovrn livid coior. Νο professional cook shall come neal these,

οι even ΙοοΚ υροη them. He will rue it, let me tell γου. Raιher, Ι shall myself act

as stervaτd, so cleverlμ so smooιhly, and elegantly (yes, 1 shall make the dish

myself), tlrat Ι shall cause the feasters novr and then to push their teeth into the

plates for very joy.The prepalation and composition of αΙΙ these foods Ι am ready

to disclose, proclaim, and teach for nothing if anybody rηrishes to learn, (Kock

Ζ.Ζ33; Athenaeus 3. Iο7)

Thus, ιητε have α menu consisτing of α seafood antipasto, boiled or roasted frsh, fried

fish, α mixed grill, and, finally α bit of liver ßη α net. What's more, \Λτε find α generous

cook, rηrilling to shaTe his secrets.

Α DELUXE DINNER

Sometimes α host spared ηο expense and filled the table τητßth αη unending variety ofdishes, From τητhαt τητε have read, ure note that α Greek banquet betrη,een the fifth and

fourth centulies B.C. \Λ/αs αη extremely serious dining experience, τη,ßth so many and

such α variety of offerings that even if one merely tasted ιητhαt r.ηras offered, one rnrould

haye το have α superhuman αρρετßtε to reach the end, Philoxenus of Cythera ßη α ρßαγcalled The Banquet (PlG 3.6oι;Athenaeus +.|+6-47) lists more than thirty-five courses.

Even if many of these servings consisted of bread, sandrηriches, οτ focaccia, the list ofofferings was enough tο make even Gargantua and Pantagruel blanch.

And slayes ιτναßη brought υηßο us α table with iη.el1-oiled face, another for others,

rηrhile other henchmen bore α third, until they filled the chamber. The tables

glistened ßη the rays of τhε high-slvinging iamps, fτeighted rvith trenchers and

condiments delectable ßη cruets, fuli. . . and luxuriant ßη divers artful inventions

to pleasure life, tempting lures of the spirit. Some slaves set beside us snowy-

topped baτley cakes ßη baskets, vrhile others (brought ßη ioaves of rι,,heat).After

them flrst came ηοt αη ordinary tureen, my love, but α riveted vessel of huge

size; . . . α glistening dish of eels to break our fast, full of conger-faced morsels

ιlται lιrould delight α god [Recipe 3I].After this another pot οf the same size

caIne ßη, and α soused ray oΓperfect roundness.There rηrere small kettles, one

containing some meat of α shark [Recipe 3ò], another α sting-ray [Recipe 3ο].

-\τιother rich dish ιhere rvas, made of squid and sepia-polyps rvith sofτ τenτacles

[Recipe α7]. After this came α grey mullet hot from its contact τητßτh fire, the

lιhole as large as the table, exhaling spirals of steam,Afτer this came breaded

squid, my friend, and cooked pra\\Ins done brourn. Foliowing tlrese we had

flor,ver leaved cakes and fresh confections spiced, pufΓ-cakes of wheat τνßτh frosτ-

ing, large as the pot.This is called the "navel of the feast" by γου and me. Last

ι}rere came-ιhe gods are my wltnesses-a monstrous slice of tυηηγ [tuna],

baked hot, from over the sea where it r,ηras carved lvith knives from the meatiest

part οf the belly [Recipe 32].

:-,-lrenus Continues his description of the meats and others CourSeS Served, So

_::lerous that the poet lost count, listing them one after the other ßη αη inτerminable

_:,- og: enτrails, tripe, Ιοßη, and leg of domesτic pig, kid gοατs cut ßη hali the legs,

::,. ribs and head of α pig (Recipes Ζ4 and Ζ5), and α filet flavored rηrith silphium,-] e\tinct plant also used medicinally). Nor did ßτ sτορ τhere, because τhε narraτor

..':es that rηrhen these morsels were gone, the containers were rηrithdralyn and

:::aced by others: "Kid and lamb, boiled and roast, and sweeτesτ morsel οf under-

:le enτIails from kids and lambs mixed, such as the gods loye, . . . jugged hare, and,:rrg cockerels, and many hot portions of partτidge and ring-doyes \Λ/ere ηο\Δ/

..,shly laid beside us. Loaves of bread there rvere, light and nicely folded; and com-

:.:roning there came ßη also yeiloinr honey and curds, and as for cheese...." And, ,:h τhßs, and thankfully, the banquet ended and τhε guests yrashed their hands.

'.:ge amounts of food, but one does not hear mention of αηγ vegetables, either

_, lked or Iaw, ηοτ s\Λ/eets or fruits, erren though these exisτed and vzere consumed

,'' good quantity. From citations of fifth-century Greek auτhors rnre have α record of, rich fruits and vegetables r.ηrere sold ßη the Greek market of the era.

REGIONAL GASTRONOMY AND CUSΤOMS

ΑΙΙ Greeks gaτheIed τogeτher το feasι, bυτ they did not eat the same things nor did they

eατ ßη τhe same sτyle everyr.ιrhere. Greece, ßη fact, r.ηras divided into its numerous city-

òτατeò, each ροßßτßòαΙΙγ and economically independent of-and often enemies vrith-αΙΙ τhe oτhers, This independence exτended to the ατεηα οf gastronomy and the rules

for producing one's banqueτs. We read ßη Diphilus's TheWomanl4/ho Left Behind Her

Husband (quoτed inAτhenaeus 4.ι33c; Kock Ζ.545) thατ τhe cook, before choosing α

menu, asked rιrhere τhe guesτs r.ηrere {τοm. The head of the house impatiently asked

τητhατ τhe devil difference ßτ τητουΙd make, υροη ιηrhich the chef explained that there

rηrere differeni τaSτeS and manners ßη the various cities of Greece and that to be able

ιο please τhe guesτs, he needed tο knoyr rnrhere they came from.Thus, ιητε learn that

τhe people οf Rhodes above allloved eating "large sheat-fish" (shad?) or α lebias (αη

unidenτified fish) and τhey expecτed ßτ το be served hot, Ιη Byzantium, οη the other

hand, τheγ made everyτhing ßητο soup and seasoned it with quantities of absinthe

(bßττετs), garlic, and sαΙτ.

Menander ßη his ºτορhοηßυs (again, quoted ßη Athenaeus 4. ι32e; Kock 3.I3Ζ) repeaτs

τhis ßηfοτmατßοη. Iη τhis comedμ rηrhen discussing rvhat to offer α foτeigner for dinner,

one of τhe speakers said τhατ one had to Κηοι.ητ lηrhere α guest came from because it

rηrould make α difference το τhε chef For example, those coming from τhε Greek

islands \Λ/ειε accusτomed το εατßηg α great dea1 of fish of αΙ1 kinds, but they ate it fresh,

ουτ of τhε sea, and rηrere τherefore "not at αΙΙ atiracted to preserved fish." If they were

obliged το εατ ßτ τhατ uray, τhεγ rvould do so unrnriilingly; they vrould prefer "force-

meaτs and highly seasoned dishes." The Arcadians, οη the other hand, perhaps because

τheγ lived far from τhe sea, rπere fascinated rηrith anything marine, especially biyalves,

ιηrhile the lonians appreciated οηΙγ hearty rich foods "that provoke desire."

These remarks make sense if one undeτsiands that each city made α shor.ηr of disap-

proving αΙ1 that pertained to ßτs rivals, and that each city made fun of the others.

Regional criτiques, above αΙΙ τhose made by the comedic dramatists, \Λ/ετε not just

based οη τhε cusτoms οf each poiis but also οη the characteristics of its citizens. These

1abs could be highly εηιετταßηßηg and everyone took part, laughing at the Athenians,

, - SpaItans, theThebans, and even the Greek colonials of Syracuse andTaranτum alike,

Ξ.:h )est centered οη the regional characteristics, the preferred food choices, and τhε

,es and caprices of each group, and ηο one \η/αs spared. Let us examine these ßη_ -_ck succession, starting with mythic Athens, the cradle of civilization and αττ.

- _,lENS

-..e ,\thenian menu \Λ/αs the butt of many dramatists' jokes. From their r.ιrritings, rve

.--.]\\-that lt rvas composed of α series of bite-sized tastes, diverse but small.This cus

η perslsts even today. One needs οηΙγ to go to ΡlαΚα and ask for ουΖο, the anise-

_.-.,ored Greek liquor, to find that one geis α seτies of Ιßτdε biτes ιηιßτh τhε drink, τhe

, =inber and quality οf the offerings depending οη the level of τhe establishment. Even

]]:ο τhε recent past, Greek Ιατν prohibited esιablishments from serving ουΖο ιητßτhουt

..ο serving food. Ι remember αη open-air locale ßη remotest Crete, where the tables

.,,-ere left over from the last urar-huge, round barrels τhατ once held fuel for τhε

-::rerican fleet. There, seated under the stars, we ordered glasses of ουΖο and r,vaτched

.. ιhe rηraiter arrived, staggering under the rveight of α large tray, rvhere, besides our

.:eriτii there r,ηrere numerous plates heaped wiτh such foods as τhe Greek comedic

]:amatists lηrrote about tr.ιrenty-five hundred years ago. The menu had not changed

,-:rce the age of Pericles. Ιt ιvas α delicious \Λ/αγ to pass αη afιernoon, but it rηras ceτ-

.ßηΙγ ηοτ α meal tο satisfy. Nevertheless, this repast, today ραττ οf τhε Greek aperiτif if::ultiplied several times over, τητουΙd have constituted the entire ancient Athenian meal.

l-early one can assume α bit of exaggeration οη the part of τhε comic r,ηrriτers, and

:robab}y such skimpy fare rηras more characterisτic of αηòßεητ eaτeries τhαη privaτe

.'omes. But for those rηrho did not ο\η/η α home, this τηταs rηrhat the market offered and

,le comedianAlexis fromTunis, ßη his Running Mates (Athenaeus a.I37c-d), had ßt said

: ] one of his characters that he ought το hire τhe τlητο besτ cooks ßη τhε òßτγ, because,

_rιending tο invite α guest from Thessaly, he did ηοτ \Λ/αητ το expose said guesτ το τhε

.,,pical Athenian offeτings: "I must ηοt streτch τhε genιleman οη τhe rack οf famine by

.:ingily setting before him each little dish separately."

\long the same lines, Lynceus, ßη The Centaur, makes fun of Ατhεηßαη dinners and τheir

:umerous minute portions, so small that they rvould not even be shared r,ηrith α friend:

21

Potron: For Ιhe cook sets before γου α large tray οη rvhiclr are five small plaτes.

One of these holds garlic, another α pair of sea-urchins, anoτher α sr,ηreeτ urine

sop, another ιεη cockles, ιhe last α sma]l piece of sturgeon. While Ι am eating

Ιhis, another is eating that; and rvhile he is εατßηg thατ, Ι have rrrade arvay ινßτΙιthls. What Ι lvant, good sir, is both the one and the other, but my rvish is impos-sible. For Ι have neither five rrrouths nor five right hands. Such α Ιαγ-ουτ as τhατ

Seems to offer varietχ buτ ßι is ηοτhßηg at αlß to Satisfy the belly. For Ι simplybespatter my lips, Ι don't fill them. What, then, lrave γου?Cook: Α lot of oysters.

Patron:You selve me α plate of them, αlΙ by itsel{ and ηοτ α small one, eiτher. Have

γου sea-urchins?

Cook:Yes, ofthese γου shall have α second coulse. For Ι bought them myself,

fourpence (S obols) wolth.

Patron: This Ιhen is the one dish γου shall serve by lτself τhaτ αlΙ may eατ ßτ alike-not Ι one thing, my companion another (Athenaeus 4. I3If-I3zc; Kock 3:z74).

Given these examples, it does not seem likely thατ Aτhenians ατε τητeΙl. Iη fαòτ, severaιauthors PoItray the Athenian dinner as eyen \^/orse than τhατ of τhε ausτere Sparτans. Iτ

dePended, moleover, οη the historical moment that the auτhor τηττοτe αbουτ. The Ιοτητ

Point ßη Athenian dining rvas probably under τhε rule of Solon (sixτh-sevenτh cenτuryB,C.), α harsh legislator \Λ/ho set sftict limits οη every form of luxury. He even vrroτethat one should οηΙγ serve economical, rustic barley bread ατ dinner: τηιheατ breadr,nras condoned οηΙγ οη special occasions. Solon did ηοτ stop τhere: he imposed οη τhecitizens αη absolute prohibition οη the purchase of imporτs. His felΙοß,ητ ciτizens τοοκhim at his rvord; they ηοt οηΙγ observed his laws, buτ caτried τhem το τhe ροßητ ofabsurditY. Chrysippus ßη his tract Οη Pleasure and Good (Aτhenaeus +.τ7η ιecουητò τhατ

ßη the lYceum and the academy there rηrere τ$/ο τταdßτßοηαΙ banqueτs held every year.

Once, α cook for one of these feasts dared tο carry ßη α casserole dish desτined forSome other use, and the indignant sufferers, beiieving τhατ τhe cook ιηταò gυßΙτγ ofsmuggling, broke the dish into pieces. ΑρρατεητΙγ τhßs food dish repròsenτed τhe òοττof extravagance that Solon had banned, though τητhατ could be seen as "eχftαναgαητ"

about α baking dish remains α mystery today. Cerτainly ßτ rvas more reprehensible

:len α cook, ßη preparing α dinner, ρΙαγfυΙΙγ fashioned some salted meat to ΙοοΚ like

. :sh. This cook ιηταs flogged "Γor playlng the impostor τητßτh his over-refinement."

: {RTA

,:e Sparτans rvere alrvays the preferred target of αΙΙ types of comedians. Even tοdαlι, :]en τhis ciτy is menτioned, one τhßηΚs of τhe sτrict larnrs drafted by Lycurgus, tlre

.:sh Sparτan life sτyle, and the famous and infamous communal table, the οηlγ place

: ,r hiclr òρατταη males might take τheir meals. Obligatory dining, yes, but not free; ßη-.:ι

τhe communal ταblε had nothing whatsoever to do rηrith modern ideas of α social

: rιellare sταιε. Thele \Δ/αs ηο help for those urho did not rηrork and could not be use-

_^. το τhe community. Ιt τηταs mandated that equal portions \η/ετε given to αΙΙ αt meals

.:ld ßτ rηras furτher required that αΙ1 participants rryould cover the expenses for the

:laiιrτenance and upkeep of the communal table. Everyone contributed equallχ giving,:,,,enτy-eighτ liτers of barleμ forty-trvo ]iters of rvine, plus α certain quantity of cheese

..,d figs, and ßτ rvas also expected that each ραγ the sum of ten Egypiian obols tor.ηlard

,le purchase of meat. Men could add someτhing extla, as α gßfτ to ιhe òοmmυηßτμ

. ,ιι ßι could ηοτ be purchased goods: οηΙγ animals τhεγ had raised or game τhey had

_.rιured τhemselves.Those rηrith flocks gave lamb and goats; others gave ringdoves,

..ese, τurτledoves, τhrushes, blackbirds, or rabbits.The cook, rηrhen serving these

:ιerings, announced the name of tΙιε one lιrho donated it, and the donor probably-.ceiyed α rηrell-deserved round οf appiause for his patriotism.

_:τe daily fare was ρlαßη and sparse. Iτ rηras lisτed ßη full by Dicaearchus ßη his Tripoliticus

ΞGH z.z4z,;Aτhenaeus 4. I4Ib):barley bread, α slice of boiled pork that could not

.,, eigh more τhαη αη etto (one quarτer of α pound), to rvhich rηras added the broτh

:ιιm boiiing τhe meat, and sometimes they even had olives (Recipe 6), cheese, and

,lιne figs, and rηrhatever roasted meat the donors brought. Οη top οf this, they drank

. òιιρ of rvine.

l.ι τhe end of τhis delicious repast, the young boys lvere given αη extra bit of food,

_nanced by τhε rηrealthiest citizens, whi]e the ροοτ \η/ere compensated by being

.,lowed to take α portion of reeds or stra\η/ to reinforce their drrye]lings. The boys' extra

:rτion of food consisted οf barley flour (imagine something like polenta), flavored

23

\Λ/ßth οßΙ, and the young boys avidly ate it with αη added bay leaf Cherving bay leaves

αt the end of α meal was α pleasure not just reserved for the γουτh, bυτ αη ancienτGτeek habit. Callias (or Diocles) wroτe, ßη The Cyciopians: "Here come τhe dish of leaves,

ιητhßòh means αη end to ουι dinners and our dances as rryell" (Athenaeus 4, I4oe).(Who ινουΙd be able to dance οη such α diet rηrill alr.ιlays remain α mγòτeτγ.) Today ßτ

seems truly Sftange that the tough bay leaf rηrould be αη attracτive desserτ, bυτ backthen they picked it clean.

Often these Spartan communal meals rηrere dominated by α famous black soup-alocal specialty as characteristic of Sparta as ρßΖΖα is of Naples and saf{τon-flavored

Iisotto is of ΜßΙαη, This dark soup seems το have had α disagreeabie flavor. As pluτarch

relates ßη his life of Lycuτgus, α certain king of Pontus τηταητεd το sample τhis soupand he senι for α Sρατταη chef to prepaτe ßτ. The king had barely put the spoon ßη hismouth rηrhen he grimaced r,vith disgust. The cook let it be Κηοτητη τhατ ßτ rηras ηοτ hisfault τhat τhε monarch did ηοτ like τhε soup: "Sir, tο make this broth relish, γουshould haye bathed yourseif first ßη the river Eurotas"' that is, ßη Sparτa's river. Iτ seemsthat the rest of the Spartans not οηΙγ sτηιαΙΙοιητεd τhßs soup, bυτ ατε ßτ ßητßτh pleasure andadded their bread to it, τυτηßηg it black as coal.

Besides their food, Spartans rηrere also pilloried for their τυsτßòßτγ and ignoτance.

Exemplary of such sport is τhe ταΙε of α Spartan i.ιrho, finding himself ßη α morerefined citχ rvas invited to α sumptuous supper, The antipasτo ρΙαττετ rvas heaped υτßτhfoods completely υηΚηοτητη to him, including beauτiful sea urchins (Recipe s),Theunschooled youth took one and, ßη fτοητ of his surprised, amused, and incredulousfellorηr guests, put τhe r,ηrhole sea urchin ßη his mouth: egg, shell, sharp spines, andα1l. Naturally \Λ/ßth his first bite, he found himself ßη αη arvkrηrard ροòßτßοη, bυτ, beingα Spartan, he could not falτer. Struggling to keep his composure, he continued tocherry τhε lηricked τhing until he desτIoyed it completely. Triumphant, though ßη agony,

he declared: "Υου malicious animal.You did not gετ me. I lητοη, me! Βυτ one τhßηgis certain, ßη the future Ι τητßΙΙ never eat another sea urchin." Never rηras α νο\Λτ moretruly respected,

-:,Ξ3ΕS

],,:lans \Λ/ετε said to be the most tight-fisted of the Greeks and τheir meals rηrere

:..,:ibed as truly miserable.The historian Cleitarchus, ßη τhε firsτ book of his hisτory

, ,:_,exander, relates that whenThebes r.ηras destroyed by that king, τhε ciτy's collecτive

:, ιh \Λ/αs iess than 44ο talents. Perhaps ιhis ιvas the reason for their frugal meals.

, _ .ir suppers \Λ/ετε scraped together fτom thrion (stuffed fig leaves) (Recipe ιΖ),

- ,_<ed vegetables, anchovies, little fish (Recipe Ζ9), sausages, οχ ribs, and bean

- ::idge. This rηras exactly rvhat Atιaginus, son of Phrynon, served tο τhε Persian

.i-donius and fifty of his military men, r,ηrhen τhε former ßηνßτεd τhem το his house.

,.ιιarchus rvrote gleefuliy: "I believe that [the Persians] could not have won the-..,ie, and that the Greeks need not have met them ßη battle-array at Plataea, seeing

, :,: ιhey already had been done to death by the food" (Athenaeus α,IaSd-f).

.: Ξ.\ΤΕR GREECE: TARANTUM

,-_Tarantum (modern¹ranto) οη the Ιtαlßαη coast, by cοητιαsτ, life τηιαò qυßτε agreeable

.-:d the food τηιαs excellent.TheTarantans did ηοτ bother pinching pennies and τhεγ

_ =ιied every day. Once α month public sacriflces rηrere made and the victims' roasted

,-._-αt \η/αs eaten, buι even οη otheτ days the people \η/ere ηοt parτicularly ρeηßτeητ and

.:ßι,αιε citizens pτoduced succulent dinners.TheTaτantans fεΙτ τhαt, r,vhile other men

: rnsidered it necessary to amass riches tο αΙlοτηι them to live ßη luxury someday,

,:Iantans did not waste time: "they themselves, τηιßth their parties and τheir pleasuτes,

]] ηοτ ρυτ off living, but live already" (Aτhenaeus a,ι66e*f).

HELLENISM AND ALEXANDER ΤΗΕ GREAΤ

'.\'iτhAlexander τhε Great (;s6-368 l,c.), one enters the Hellenisτic era and αη

:\ιταναgαητ and rich ιyorld. Ιη fact, not much is known about τhe dieτary habits

lf Alexander except for his passion for apples, especially τhose from Babylonia

,\τhenaeus 7,z76f-z77a).This youth \Διαs α rηrarrior: young, good-looking, stIong

.nd capable of enduring hunger and thirst r.ηrithout turning α hair, bυτ also one r,vho'.ιαs driven to the rvorst excesses, even rηrhen he rηras stili α boy.This is demonstτaτed

ιß τhe battle of the apples, ßη rηrhich Alexander and his friends filled τhεßτ bοατ ιητßτh

the fruiτ, shoved off, and using τhεm as projectiles, improvised α lively bαττΙε. Νοone died, but there rnrere plenty of rηrounds,

Alexander may have loved good, healthy apples, but he also loved α less innocuousitem: lvine. It is said he drank ßτ pure and ßη huge quantities, ofτen ending υρ τhοτ-

oughly dτunk. This vice rηras blamed for both his early deaτh and his sexual indiffer_

ence-a failing that, hourever, did not preclude him from marrying Roxane, Oxyarτes'

daughter, and fathering α child by her. Neverτheless, rηrhen Alexander moved το Asia, he

left his ß.ηιßfε behind, bυτ he permitted his men's misτresses το sup and drink wßτh τhεßτ

menfolk. Ιt τηταs at one of these drunken, mixed-gender enτertainmenτs τhατ ΡτοΙemγ'ò

celebrated Athenian mistress, Thais, convinced Alexander to set fire το Xerxes' palace.

There r.ηrere α gleat many magnificent banquets ßη Alexander's life. Sometimes so

many people \η/ετε invited that there was not enough room foτ τhem αΙΙ το repose οηcouches, and the guests ended υρ sitting. But even ßη these cases-as, for example, ατ

the banquet serving over six thousand officials-the meals rvere splendid and τhe

guests had seats made of silver. The expenses for dinners τhατ he offered his friends

lηrere fantastically high: more than one hundred minas r.ηrere expended το feed òßχτγ

οτ seventy people. Given that α mina rηras r,ηrorth roughly 4,333 kilos of siiver, τhe cosτ

peΤ guest r,ηras αbουτ 6Ζ-7Ζ kilos of silveτ.

Alexander's fτiends \η/ειε ηο less extravagant and ιhey shorved ßτ above αΙß rvhen τheγ

invited the young conqueror το dine. Agaτharchides of Cnidus ßη his Αßαη Affairs

(FGH 3.ι96) tells us that one such host had all the desserτs wrapped ßη gold leaf, Every

time the guests took one, they peeled off and tossed τhe gold οη ιhe floor τητßτh τhε

other garbage to shorηr their admiration for such extravagance. Νο dουbτ τhe slaves

profited from this display of casual extravagance as τhεγ τοοΚ ουτ τhε deluxe garbage.

EXPENSES

Needless to say the average person did not spend as freely οη his εητετταßηmεητs as

did Alexander, Menander, ßη his comic ρΙαγ Drunkenness (or The Carouse), calculaτes τhατ

α 1arge banquet cost about one τalent (Allinson 4oz;Athenaeus 4. 146 d-e): "So then,

our prosperity accords not urith the vray ßη rηrhich τητε offbr sacrifice. For τhough το

ιhe gods Ι bring αη offering of α tiny sheep boughτ for τεη drachmas fεqυßναΙeητ το

+-4.5 g of silver, or U.S. $z-8],and glad Ι am to get ßτ so cheap;buτ for fluτe-girlsand perfume, harp-girls, Mendean andThasian rηrine, eels, cheese, and honeμ τhe cosτ

is almost α talent [6,οοο drachmas]." Menander speclf,es neiτher τhε number of guesτs

nor the type of banquet, but α talent (Ζ6 kg οf silver) v,,ould be roughly equivalenτ το

lour or five thousand U,S. dollars. Even today, for α recepτion or dinner for 100 το 150

guests, one could spend about this αmουηt-wßτhουτ, ηατυταΙΙγ, τhe giri-fluτisτs, girl_

rarpists, or fragrances. I rηrould say that α vrell-heeled hοsτ of τοdαγ τητουΙd compre_

1end τhese prices and see them as α compalable ουτΙαγ.

_nnkeepers'food bills, often horribty inflated, \η/ετε τhe subjecτ of ;okes τhen as ηοτητ.

_η α comedy called The Μαη with α Cataract (Apeglaucomenos) byAlexis (Kock Ζ.366;

\thenaeus 3.ιι7), \η/ε see α customer r,ηrho refuses tο ραγ his share of α social lunch if:ae innkeeper does not ;ustify the bill iine by line. The scene seems το demonsτIaτe

,ºατ ατ such gaτherings there are those urho use the group's good faith το profit τhεm-.elves, as rηrell as those rnrho are naturally mistrustful.

[Customer]: If . . . γου don't render me αη account of each item ßη deιail, γουshall not get from me α trvelfth part of α farιhing.

[Owner]:What γου say is reasonable. Bring α counting-board and counters.

[CustomeI]: Name the items.

fOwner]: Rατη. salt fish, f,ve farthings [obols].

[Customer]: Next!

[Owner] : Mussels, seven farthings.

[Customer]:You haven't cheated yet. Next!

fOwner]:Those sea urchins, α ha'penny [ι obol].

fCustomer]:Your conscience is still clean,

[owner]:After that wasn't there the cabbage rvhich γου αΙΙ loudly praised?

[Customer]:Yes; it was really good.

[Owner]: Ι paid α penny for that.

[Customer]: Whμ Ι rvonder, were \ητε so loud ßη praising it?

fOwner]: The cube salt-fish cost three ha'pence.

27

[Customer]: Α bargain, indeedl And for the endive γου haven't charged α

single penny!

[Olvner]:You don't know, simpleton, the state of the market, and ιhαι τhe

rηreevil have eaten υρ αΙΙ green salads.

[Cusιomer]: So that's rvhy γου have charged double for the salt-fish?

|Owner]: The fishmonger is to blame; go and ask him. Next come the conger eel,

five pence [ιο obols].

[Customer]: That's ηοt much! Name the next.

[Owner]: Ι boughτ τhε baked fish for α shilling.

fCustomer]: Οτηι! Like α felrer-it leaves one, then rises high again.

[Olvner]: Add the ιvine, of which Ι procured more rnrhen γου were drunk; three

bottles, at five pence [10 obols] the bottle.

\ΜΙΝΕ AND ΤΗΕ SYMPOSIUM

According το mγτh, grapevines, and consequently rvine, \^/ere the gifts of Dionysos.

This god hailed from Egypt, where vineyards rπere already under cultivation by

4οοο B.c. Ατ some ροßητ Dionysos sailed for Greece, carrying the precious grapevine

r,ιrith him. Legend holds that during the journey, the divine ship uras i^,raylaid by

pirates, τητhο bound τhε handsome young god ßη chains. ΟηΙγ the ρßΙοt of the piraτe

ship recognized the supernatural ladiance of the captive, and he begged his com-

panions ηοτ το offend τhε soliτary sailor, but ßη ναßη. So much the rnrorse for them:

Dionysos bursτ his chains and τurned τhε offending pirates into dolphins. Archaeol-

ogisτs have unearτhed α beauτiful ceramic cup from the sixth centuly B.c, representing

τhis mγτh: τhε god sτeers τhe ship, rvhose main mast is tr,ηlined rηrith α huge vine hang-

ing ß,ιιßτh gIapes, rηrhile τhε piraτe-dolphins leap ßη the rnraves.Thus Dionysos came to

the shores of Greece and introduced his plant and his rηline,

Men τοοΚ such α liking το τhis beverage, faτ stronger than today's ιητßηε, that they soon

began το poison τhemselves υτßτh ßτ. Greek authors relate that many early imbibers

ended υρ dead, crazy or alcoholic under the influence of pure r.ηrine. Herodotus \Λ/ιοtε

that the Spartan king Cleomenes, having lived among the Scythians, α sa]/age ρορυΙα-τßοη devoτed το sτrong drink and τherefore to drunkenness, had begun to drink like

,:)e savages and gradually rvent mad from ßτ (Hisτory 6.84).Thereafτer, every τßme τhe

: _.:ιαηs rηranted to be served something stlonger, they ordered the wine merchanτ το

.:_ake 1τ like τhε Scythians" (Athenaeus ιo.4z7b-c).There rηrere many rvho "drank

],: Scyτhians," ηοt the least of whom rηras the young heroAlexander the Great

:.13ac-d).

-' ,η after τητßηε τηταs introduced, man had already begun το abuse ßτ and αòτ like mad-,.::r, Ιt ιναs οηΙγ when man learned to dilute the wine thατ ßτ became as saΓe as ßτ τηταò

.:asing.The ancient lηrriters gave several different explanations for hοτητ r,vine came

le diluted. According to one version, expounded by Phiionides ßη his rηrork Perfumes

,,-,\,/reaths (Athenaeus ιò.675α-ò), Zeus himself inτervened το save τhe alcoholics.

- _,ß daμ α group of men r,ηrere drinking strong rvine by τhε sea rηrhen α sudden sτorm,

.'': by Zeus, burst υροη them. They fled tο α nearby cave, leaving τhe remains of τheir

-lic behind οη the beach. \Δ/hen the storm \ηιαs over, τhe men found τhατ τhe rain-": filled their half-empty \Λ/ßηε goblets.This lyatered rvine, τhεγ found, rvas ηοτ οηlγ. ,d το drink buτ above αlΙ better for them. From then οη, at τhε beginning of α sym-

.iuιn or ιηrine-drinking ceremony, each guest \^/as given α mouτhful of pure rvine.alute Dionysos, the giver of wlne: but thereafτer, as τhεγ began το drink diluτed

,_le, τhεγ τhanked Zeus the Sayior.

. ', inother version, the Athenian king Amphictyon learned τhε meτhod from Dionysos._rself. The king thereafter erected α statue το αη "uprighτ" (τΙßατ is, ηοτ falling-dor.vn::,:ηΚ) Dionysos at τhε¸mρΙε of the Seasons (Aτhenaeus z,38c-d) and near τhis

.:ue he installed αη αΙtατ to the Nymphs, τητhο are called "τhe τητεt nurses of

- lnysos," to remind the devotees that rηrine should be tempered τητßτh τηιατετ. Quoτed-.lenaeus, "Iη daily intercoulse, to those τητhο mix and drink [ιιτßηε] moderaτely; ßτ

..,,es good cheer; but if γου overstep the bounds, it brings violence" (Ζ.36α).

-.',r-as, therefore, \Λ/ith diluted lηrine that Greeks finished τheir banqueτs and began τhe

.:nposium. This classic after-dinner festiviτy of snacking and rηrine-drinking began

:h τhe election of α "symposiarch," α sort of master of ceremonies, part psycholo,.,sι and part social director. Α good symposium facilitator τηταò essenτial το αη evening's, ,.cess. He r.ηras supposed to help sτTengτhen exisτing friendships among τhε guesτs

and inspile ηe\η/ ones. He rηras to keep firm contτoi of the conversation and head off

Cοητeητßουò τυτηò. FßηαΙlγ, τhε Symposiarch r,ηras arbiter of the number of toasts and the

dßΙυτßοη of τhe τνßηε. Iτ rηras besτ if τhε elected one had first-class medical knornriedge,

so τhατ he mßghτ calculaτe hovr τhε rnrine rηrould affect the diverse guests: the aim r.ηras

that ηο one should get so drunk that arguments and disorder ensued.

Various calculaτions rηrere used for diluting r,ηrine: α formula of half rnrater and half

rηrine τηταò judged το be τοο dangeτous (Athenaeus ιο.426α). Other common dilutions

\Λ/ere ιhe "five" (τhree parts \Λ/ατει to t\Λ/ο parts \^/ine);the "thτee" (trπo parts \Λ/ater to

one of lvine);and fiηαΙΙμ τhe "four" (τhree parts \Λ/αtετ to one of rηrine). But everyone,

Pluτarch included, found τhατ τhßs last formula made the \ητßηe too r,ηreak α drink, and

οηΙγ good for wise judges (or so the story goes).

The symposium leadeτ needed το ensule that the numbeτ of toasts did not exceed the

number of empτied cups. According το Aτhenaeus, the temperate person limited him-

self το τhree diluτed cups: one for τhε τοαst, one for love, and one for dreams. At that

ροßητ, τhε òmαττ man γτεητ home. Those r,ηrho stayed longer knevr that the fourth cup

led το violence, τhε fifτh το rornrdiness, τhε sixth to happy drunkenness, the seventh

το laughτer (τhe Greeks called τhßs "το black eyes"), the eighth to policeman, the ninth

το biliousness, and τhε τεητh το ßηsαηßτγ and the smashing of furniture (Athenaeus

I .36b-c).

One sτory τεlΙò οf α group of young men from Agrigentum vrho had surely arrived at

τhe τeητh cup and probably did ηοτ sτορ there. This group gathered one day for dinner

and began το drink τητßτhουτ τεòτταßητ. After α rryhile, the world began to spin about

τhem and τhεγ somehoyr could ηοτ get to their feet. They seized υροη the notion that

τhey r.ιrere οη α τrireme caughτ ßη α terrible storm and that the οηΙγ ιιταγ to avoid ship-

r,ηrreck \^/as το iighτen τhε bοατ. Sτaggering to their feet, they began to throrηr the furni-

τure ουτ τhe rηrindorv. Naιurally τhε racket drernr α cror,ηrd, rηrhich rηrasied ηο time ßη

making off ιητßth the items flung onto the street.

When τhε auτhoriτies came οη τhe scene to investigate, they found the lads still under

τhε influence and sτßΙl convinced τhατ τhεγ \Λ/ειε οη αη imperiled trireme. Moreover,

ιhε arrival of ιhe strangers, striding across τητhατ seemed το τhε τipplers το be α sea ofιossing \Λ/aves, convinced them that they rnrere ßη the presence of supernatural beings.

Befuddled as they were, ιhey could οηΙγ say that ιhe marine τεmρεòτ lvas rvreaking

]avoc οτι their ship and to save themselves they had been obliged το ]εττßsοη τhe excess

;argo. Turning respectfully tο the speechless magistrates, one youth explained,"HonorableTritons, Ι r,ηras so frightened τhατ ] τητεητ το hide ßη τhε hold and Ι have ηοτ

noved from there,"

lhe magisττates realized there rηras ηο ροßηt ßη arguing and they began το deparτ. But

lefore they reached the door, the young men ρτοsττατεd τhemselves ατ τhε elders' feeτ,

.olemnly srvearing that if they vrere suffered to escape τhis τerrible sτorm and make

rort, they urould raise αη altar ßη honor of these, τheir savior sea gods. Afτer τhis

.pisode, the house r.ηras foτevermore Κηοτητη as "the Trireme."

, his tale serves to illustrate horv important it \Λ/αs τhατ τhe symposiaτch be very αττeη-

.i\-e tο both the dilution of the ß,ητßηe and the number of τoasτs. Α cerτain number of:oasts \^/ere obligatory. But ßη those days, toasts were not made ßη honor of present

:ompany; they urere made ßη honor of the gods or, as often aS ηοt, Some personage',ι'hom everyone admired, Theophrastus ιηrrites ßη his treatise οη drunkenness τhατ

]ecause ßη antiquity it ιηταs not customary to τοαsτ τhε healτh of anoτher, ßτ r.ιlas byIeans of the "kottabos" that lovers found α \Λ/αγ το honor τheir beloved. Koττabos rηras

ι drinking game, ßη urhich the dregs of α cup r,ιrere flung ατ α ταιgετ, usually α ρlατε.\ccording to Theophrastus:

Tnitially one toasted the gods οηßγ. Iη those days the kottabos was the tool by

which lovers honored each other. Iη Γact, ιhey were assiduously devoτed το τhis

game, about vrhichAnacreon of Teos \Λ/ιοtε: "\Λ/ßτh hands τied τοgeτheτ we ρΙαγ

the Sicilian kottabos" [ΡΙG fr. 53]. From then οη, alt of τhe ancienτ poems τhατ rηle

call "skolia" (cheerful gτoup songs) aτe full ofreferences [to this game]; I refer

το τhe poems thaτ Pindar composed (PtG ααι ). ". . . [T]he pleasure of love is

inspired by Aphrodite, while ] am intoxicated τηιßτh Chimaros r,ηrine and τhrow

the kotτabos for Agathon."

AntiPhanes exPlained hovr this game \η/αs played ßη his Hidden from Aphrodiτe (Aτhenaeusι5,666f -667Ιι):

Α: This here is the thing Ι mean. Don't γου understand? The lampstand is α

kottabos. Ραγ close attention. The prize is eggs and flve . . ,

Β; But τη.hαt for? It seems silly. Horv ν;ßΙΙ you.shoot kotιabos'?

Α: Ι τητßßΙ shorv γου step by sιep; rvhoever τηιheη he shoots at the ραη causes theκοιιαbοs ιο ΓαΙΙ-

Β: The ραη? What ραη? Do γου mean that little thing that lies υρ there οη top,the tiny platter?

,4: Yes, that's the pan-he becomes the lηrinner.

Β: Horη, is one going to knorηr that?

A:Whμ if he just hits it, [the ραη] r,vill fall οη τhe Manθs [α òτατυeττe rep1esenτingα slave] and there ινß]ß be α very loud clatter.

Β: Ιη the gods' name, tell me, has the kottabos got α ManÝs, attending ßτ like αηγs]ave? . . . Take α good cup and shorηl me horηz γου do it.Α: Like α good flute player, you've got to curi your fingers round the handie,pour ßη α litt]e rvine-not too much!-and then shoot....Β: Poseidon, rηrhat α high shot you've made!

Later Οη, sYmPosiasts rvere permitted α broader range of poeτic τοαòτò, chaιices offeredtΟ the chosen one ßη α Sentimental declaraτion of love. They lvere caιιed "driηk τhecrourns" (ΡΙßηγ Nat.Hist. 3ο,3.IΖ) and consisted of crushing the florηrers from one'scιο\Λ/η ßηtο the rηrine and offering it to one's love. Α toast of this kind r,ηras offbredto Mark Antony by Cleopaτra, bυτ ηοt as αη act of loving kindness. The queen rvasoffended thατ he alurays had α ταsτeτ uriτh him, το try his food before he ατe ßß. Τοdemonstrate that if she truly vranτed το ΚßΙΙ Αητοηγ she τητουιd succeed despiτe hisprecautions, Cleopatra poisoned her floral cro\vn, and then proposed το Αητhοηγ τhατhe "dτink the crorηrn." But jusτ as Antony rηras about to put the cup to his lips, thequeen stopped him; she had α condemned prisoner brought out and gave the latterthe rryine instead. The poor man had barely finished drinking r,ηrhen he fell dead ατAntony's feet.

-

ΤΗΕ END OF ΤΗΕ DINNER

,\fτernoons could be α heady mix of food, beautiful courτesans, musicians, flutisτs,

and dancers of both sexes. And above αlΙ, τητßηε, about rηrhich the poets loved to sing,

When the poet Archilochus earned his lvage as α soldier, he sang, "Μγ bread depends

υροη my spear, from my spear comes rηrine, and supported by -γ spear, Ι drink,,. ."

Our final rηrord οη τητßηε comes from Euripides'Bacchus (77Ζ): "Wine, antidoτe to αΙΙ

rvoes, given as α gift tο mortals.\Mithout rnrine, love rηrould ηοτ lαsτ and αΙ1 other

human joys urould die."

.\t α certain point the symposium ιητουld rηrind down and friends τητουΙd go τheir

ιarious rvays. Usually it r.ιras not late when the ραττγ broke υρ, especially ßη r,ιdnτer.

Though one could alurays light the rooms r,ηrith torches, candles, and lamps, lighτ uras

scarce and expensive. The life of the ancient Greeks \Λ/αs legulated by the sun: one

rose early and "τητεηt to bed rηlith the chickens," as the saying goes.

With dinner at αη end, the men retuTned to their homes and their lv-ives. Ιf they had

not been so drunk and M/anton as to \Λ/andeτ off rnrith α flutist or courtesan, the

evening τhατ had passed under the benevolenτ eye of Dionysus ended happily under

ιhατ of Aphrodiτe.

ΒΙ BLΙ OG RAPHY

\llinson = Menander, The Principal Fragments, Francis G. Allinson, trans. (Cambridge, ΜΑ, ι93ο).

_\τhenaeus, The Deipnosophisδ, C. Β. Gulick, trans., 7 vols. (Cambridge, ΜΑ, ι969-7ι).

)iehl = ΑητhοΙοgßα Lyrica, Ε. Diehl, ed. (Leipzig, ι9+9-)

ΞGΗ = Die Fragmente der griechischen Historiker, F, ]acobμ ed. (Leiden, ι9Ζ3-5Β).

iaibel = Comicorum Gτaecorum FIaεmenta, G. Kaibel, ed. (Berlin, ι899).

Iock = Comicoτum Atticorum Fragmenta, Τ. Kock, ed. (ι88ο-ΒΒ; repr. Utrecht, τ976).

{uchenmýller, G., Philetae coi reliquiae (ι9Ζ8).

,)LG = Ροeταe Lyτici Graeci, Τ Bergk, ed., 5th ed. (ι9οο ι4).

?lutarch, The lives of the Noble Grecians and Romans, John Dryden, trans. (ι864; NeιιrYork, ι944).

TrGF = Traθicorum Graecorum Fragmenta, Α. Nauck, ed. (Güttingen, ι97ι -).

33

RECIPES

e have ηοιητ arrived at the lecipe section, Here lητε

will seek το flesh out the noτes jοττεd here and

ιhere throughout Athenaeus's The Deipnosophisk, amending

:hem at times to conform tο modern tastes. Aiding us ßη this

endeavor is τhe fact that Greek cuisine from τhe Classical era

\yas very simple. Numerous recipes, passed from generation

ιο geneIation, have endured for centuries and come dοτ.ητη

ιο us virtually unchanged. Moreover, we must not forget

ιhαt Roman cuisine of the imperial age τηταs derived fοτ the

mοSτ ραττ fτοm the Greeks. We can often reconstluct dishes

menτioned by various Greek authors based οη analogous

Roman dishes: they must merely be trimmed of the excesses

ιhat Apicius added during the late Roman Empire. Iη fact,

many of the recipes ßη De re coquinaria, Apicius's opus mag-

num, rnrork οη t\Λ/ο levels: one starts \Δτßth the rich, ancient,

ιταdßτßοηαΙ recipes, vrhich are then flnished-almost as α

postscript-r,ηrith one of the outlandish sauces so beloved

ßη τhε fourih century e.o. Combining α quantity of recipes

gleaned from other Greek authors-including some thaτ

are quite comprehensive, such as those of Archestratus ofGela-with α series of accuτate and reasoned reconstτuc-

ιßοηs of τhose that are merely hinted at, \Λ/ε end υρ υτßτh α

good idea of yrhat rnras served οη ancient Greek τables.

ΝΟΤΕ Το ΤΗΕ READER:

FulI recipes here are

numbered, Μαηγ of the

food notes are not full

recipes, but rve have

included them to expreSS

the range and depth of

ancient Greek cooking,

The adventurous cook

can experiment with

these descriptions as

he or she sees fit!

ι,

Breads and Flour-Based Foods

V/e start rηrith the principal ingredient of Greek meals, ßη fact ofmeals ßη α11 the countries of the Meditelranean: bread. Bread

could be bought from the baker, or, if α family was rich, made

and baked at home. Aτchestratus recommends that the bread-

maker be α Phoenician or Lydian, "inrho knovrs holv to make

daily every kind οf bread, ηο matter lιrhat γου order" (Athenaeus

3.Iιzc). Iη his Gastronomμ he rvriτes:

Firsτ, then, dear Moschus, Ι will call to mind ιhe gifts of ιhe fair-

haired Demeter, and do thou Ιαγ it to heart. The best that one

may get, αγ, the Iinest ßη the world, αΙΙ cleanly sifted from the

rich fτuit of barleμ grovls rvhere the crest of glorious Eresus ßη

Lesbos is rηrashed by the rvaves. It is whiter than snol.r from the

sky. Ιf it be so that the gods eat barley-meal, Hermes must go and

buy it for them there. Iη seven-gatedThebes, too, there is good

barley, inThasos, also, and ßη some other towns; bυι theirs seem

like grape-stones compared wiιh the Lesbian, Grasp that vlith

understanding sure. Supply yourself also rvith the round rol1 οΓ

Thessaly, r,vell trvisted ßη the maker's hand, rηrhichThessalians

call krimnitas, but the rest of the rηrorld calls chondrinos. Next, Ι

recommend the scion of Tegea's finest rvheaι, baked ßη ashes.

Very fine, ιοο, is the r,ηrheat loaf made for the market rηrhich

glorious Athens supplies ιο molιals; and the lοαf which comes

lηrhite from the oven ßη Erythrae, where grapes grow richly and

abounds ßη αΙΙ the luxurious daintiness of the Seasons . . .

(Atlrenaeus 3.Iιι ι2).

Βυτ these were not the οηΙγ breads of the ancient Greeks. There

r.ηrere rηrell over sixty kinds of bread, from the rough bread called

quadratus (square) by the Romans, or lòodraton by the Greeks, α loaf

that is divided into eight pieces rvith four cuts; tο the most

refined boletus, mushroom,shaped rolls sprinkled with Ρορργseeds. It is not possible to list them α11, but \Λ/ε have cited α fevr.

Where possible, rηre ßητßΙΙ give the recipes for them, bearing ßη

mind that flour varies greatly from one place tο the next. As for

the rest, they r-vere the simple breads from time out of mind,

lvith some supplemental ingredients.

36

Recipe ι

ARτoLAGANoN (FocAccιA)]Ιτε name means "leaves of bread." Το prepare it the Greek νταμ

]ne sτalts, as alrvays, rvith bread dough, but later adding milk,

ιß], lard, pepper, and wine (Athenaeus 3. ι I3d). Το make ßτ ηο\η/α-

1ays, one could simply ask for bread dough at α bakery οι super-

:rarket and then rvork ßη the ingredients indicated by Athenaeus,

_ooking ßt ßη α very hot oven. One could also make the bread

iough at home, as fοΙΙοτηιs,

31/Ζ cups (35ο 9) f lour

º tablespoon Salt

] tablespoon yeast dissolved ßη :/+ cup u/arm \^/ater

2 tablespoons olive οßΙ

2 tablespoons lard1/ι cup (6Ο ml) ulhite ι,rιßηε

ι/ι cup (6Ο ml) milkpeppΘr to taste

.

]υt the flour ßη α bowl, mix ßη the salt, and make α well ßη the

,liddle, Pour the dissolved yeast and the r.ηrarm \Λ/αtετ into τhe

-ole, then mix gently, Transfer tο α floured board and knead

llouring τhe hands and board frequently) υηtßΙ the dough is

_ompact, elastic, and smooth. Put the dough ßη αη oiled bοιι,l:nd let rise ßη α warm place. When ßt has doubled ßη volume

αbουτ Ζο-3ο min.), knead it, adding οßΙ, lard, rηrine, milk, and

fepper, and mlxing ßt evenly, adding flour as needed. Then set

: ιο rise again (about Ζο minutes). Punch ßt dorvn and spread

]. e\Ienly ßη αη oiled rectangular ραη; let it rise once more (about

]ο minutes). When it has risen, cook ßt ßη α hot oven (47òΟ F or:òοΟ C) for about 2ο minutes, or until done ßη the middle and

_.olden brorvn οη top.

PERSISTENCE OF

ARTOLAGANON ΙΝ ΤΗΕ

1.4ODERN \VORLD

Artolaganon is nothing

more than bread enriched

with οßΙ, lard, and so forth,

and ιs therefore funda-

mentally the Same as ρßΖΖα

bianca (flat \vhite bread,

lιke the thinnest focacCia

made ßη the U,S,), It iS

probab]y similar to the

bread that is called Roman

ριΖΖα üγ the Romans, and

pizza-bread ßη Lazio, αη

unconscious translation of

the Greek term,

PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕN4oDERN \^/ORLD

These soft bread leaves

seem to be similar to the"pages of music" (carfa da

musIca) f rom Sardinιan

shepherds: very thin-sometimes baked. some-times fried -confectιons,They are also similar to the

spaghetti that V/aS made

at Torre deI Greco υρ untilthe Second half of the last

century, ιvhich used hardvιheat flour, Once the

dough was made it ιvas

rolled out, cut, and Ieft todry, tv,/o StrandS together,

Thls Spaghetti V/aS

U-shaped and Iong and

had to be cut apart beforeit M/as tossed into boilin9\r'r'ater. lt is interesting tonote that ßη some ofAp]ciuS'S recipes, fracta(the dried dough) cameto be used like our smallpastas, for example ßη

soup or broth,

Recipe Ζ

KAPYRIAAthenaeus claims that this is none other than the Roman tracta

(α τγρε of dough) (3.ιι3d). Ιη Cato's day, it rnras made by mix-ing alica (large spelt grains) rηrith flour and v/ater. The dough wasshaped round and coated with οßΙ, and \Λ/αs then placed ßη theoven (Cατο De agr. 86).

4.5 lbs. (2 Κ9) vrheat f|our

2,2 lbs. (º Κ9) spelt seedsWater added to make α dough, about 1 cup (25Ο ml)

vr'ater per pound of flour

Soak the spelt seeds ßη rηrater until they become soft. Drain themand mash them until they make α compact paste. Gradually addthe flour until it is absorbed. When the dough is the right con-sistency-not too sticky or too dry-mark various "τracks" orlines across the dough that γου rηrill make into strips, then rollit out and dry over α rack. Next, rub the strips lπith αη oiledcloth and leave them to dry ßη the air οτ ßη α \Λ/armed oven.

Once dried, the strips can be used as pasta τrith α favolitesauce. Or use durum (hard wheat) flour and \Δ/ater, and con-tinue as above, again making pasta; or γου can roll them outround and fry them ßη οß1, dusting them urith cinnamon oncethey're cooled, as α dessert; or cook οη αη iron grill, oyer αηopen flame, and serve like tortillas.

Recipe 3

APANTΙ{RAKIS_his is α light, soft bread, mentioned ßη Aristophanes' Ecclesi-

:zusae, rvhere he rηrrote, "The apanthrakis are cooking." Another

:ipe is cited by Diocles of Carystus rvhen he vrrites that they,.ι-ere sofτer than laganon. Probably says Athenaeus (3.IIob), they

:oasted these breads ßη the fireplace ashes as was the custom ßι1

,\ιhens. ΙnAlexandria, this bread \Λταs consecrated to Kronos, and

,ι vras left ßη the temple of that god r.ιrhere anyone mighτ help

:hemselves.

5 cups (5ΟΟ 9) flour

1 tablespoon salt

º cup (25Ο ml) sour milk (see note)

º tablespoon yeast dissolved ßη 2 tablespoons

of urarm ιruater

º tablespoon honey

º cup (25Ο ml) vvarm rvaterι/ι cup (6ο mI) olive οßΙ

\1ßχ the flour and salt and place it ßη α mound οη the table (or

α òυττßηg board), forming α rryell ßη the center. Pour ßη the οßΙ,

sour milk, honey, \Λ/ater, and yeast. \η/οτΚ the dough ßη the nor-mal manner (bringing the flour ßηtο the wet ingredients and

slorvly mixing it together vrlth your hands, and then kneading

ßι) until it is smooth and elastic. Place it ßη α rηrarm place pro-ιected from dra|ts for about tß,ητο hours. Punch doinrn and knead

ιhe risen dough again, and cut it into ιο οι ι2 pieces. Roll each

piece out ιητßth α rolling ρßη to make ßt round and roughly 6-8inches ßη diameier. Place them οη α r,vell-greased baking sheet

ßη α r.ηrarm spot to rise again (go-+o minutes). Finally, bake them

for Ζο minutes ßη α hot oven, 375Ο F or 2οοΟ C.

\ote:To make sour milk, add ι,/Ζ teaspoon lemon juice or vine-

gar to regular milk, and stir to blend.

PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ

N4ODERN \VORLD

Today the derivative of

thιs ancient Greek bread iS

not found ßη Greece. but ßη

Turkey, where ιt is calledpita, These Soft flat breadS

are filled with something

spicy and hot and rolled

llke α ciqar,

BoLEτUS (BoLETιNos)Boletus breads . are oven-baked rolls shaped like mushrooms

(Aτhenaeus 3. I I3c) , These rolls r,ηrere probably made rvith dough

enriched ιητßth οß1 and Ιατd. Before ieaving the dough to rise, the

bread vras oiled and stre\Λ/rr \Λ/ith Ρορργ seeds. The seeds rnrould

sink into the dough as it τose, \Λy'heat flour rnras sprinkled οη α

ceramic baking ραη before the dough vras placed οη it, allorπr-

ing the bread to take οη α magnificent color that Athenaeus com-

pared to smoked cheese.

BRAZIER BREADThe comedian Antidotus rηrrote ßη his ρΙαγ The Premier Danseur,

"He took some hot brazier-bread-rnrhy not?-and folding it

over he dipped it into sr,ηreet r.ιrine" (Athenaeus 3. ιo9c). Cτobylus

ßη The Suicide \Λ/rote, "Taking α dough ραη full of brazier bread"

(ibid.). And finally, Lynceus of Samos, ßη his leττers το Diagoras,

compaIes Athenian food to that of Rhodes:

Besides, the bread sold ßη their market is famous, and they bring

it ßη at τhε beginning and the middle of α banquet without stint.

And rηrhen they ατε tiled and sated lηrith eating, they then intro-

duce α most delightful allurement ßη ιητhαt is called smeared

brazier-bread. It is α soft and deiectable compould dipped ßη

sweet urine, with such α harmonious effect that α marvelous

result come tο one rnrhether he urill or ηο; for iust as the drunken

man oΓten becomes sober again, so the eatel of it grours hungry

again urith its delicious flavor (Athenaeus 3. ιo9d-e).

This seems to have been α soft focaccia that was cooked ßη the

fireplace οτ οη α grili. Probably this bread \Λ/αs not eaten often,

since it \Λ/αs toln ßη trnr_o parts and soaked ßη rπine, likely mak-

ing it very spongy.

1|

:

ιß]

cUBo oR DICE (ΡΑΝ BREAD)This bread \Λ/αs square ßη the form and flavored rηrith anise,

cheese, and οßl. It was likely harder than modern bread and morelike oysτer bread (crackers) found today ßη France and England.Heracleides speaks of ßτ ßη his Art of Cookery (Aτhenaeus 3. I ι4α)

SΤRΕΡΤΙΚΟS (SPIRAL OR T\rYIST BREAD)This bread r-ηras made by adding α ΙßττΙε milk,lard to the dough (Athenaeus 3. I I3d). Ιt ιητουld

οß1 rolls, but ττßτh pepper.

pepper, οß1, and

be like ουτ olive-

..

Ý''Ý' *',.;.|,ι-

Sauces and Condiments for Bread

Recipe 4

ΜΙΝΤ SAUCE"Or even the dolπny leaves of tendeτ flea-bane |mint]-oftenagain, chopping υρ fτesh pepper or Median cress" (AthenaeusΖ.6 6d) .

] οΖ. (3Ο g) mint leaves

Ι οΖ. (3Ο g) green peppercorns (pickled)] οΖ. (3Ο g) safflower (also cal|ed false saffron)pinch of salt1 tablespoon vinegar3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

Crush the peppelcorns, mint, saffLorηrer, and salt ßη α moItaι AddοßΙ and vinegar and stir.

Recipe 5

oxYGARUMOxygarum (οτ oxygaron) was α sauce made with vinegar andgaIum (the modern equivalent of garum is theVietnamese nuoc-

nam, οι fish sauce), tο which one added other spices and scents

ßττ α special receptacle called αη "oxybaphon" (Athenaeus

z.67e-l).

Crush together ßη α mortar:

Ι/2 9Ζ. (15 g) black peppercorns3/η οΖ, (45 g) parsley1/Ζ οΖ, (3Ο g) caraway seedsΙ/α qΖ, (1Ο g) celery seeds

vinegarVietnamese fish sauce

Μßχ the paste with ι tablespoon honey and rvhen γου rnrish toserve it, add ι tablespoon vinegar and ι teaspoon of Vietnamesefish sauce. Μßχ and serve.

Either of these sauces can be rolled into the bread made rnrith

Recipe 3 (Apanιhrakis),

,'|'. 1-1

Appetizers

Archestratus ahvays recommended that appetizers be seryed

ιπτßτh one's aperitif, vlhich ßη ancient Greece r,vas always α cup ofgood rvine,

And as γου sip γουτ r,ηrine let these relishes be brought to γου-pig's belty and boiled sow's matrix floating ßη cumin and vinegar

and silphium; also the tender τribe of birds roasτed, such as ιhe

season affbrds. But dlsregard those Syracusans, rηrho drink frog-

fashion rnrithout eating anything; ηαγ, yield ηοτ το them, buτ eat

τhε Γood Ι tell γου. ΑlΙ other common desserts are α sign of dire

poverty-boiled chick-peas, beans, appies, and dried f,gs.Yet

accept α cheese-cake made ßη Athens; οτ Γailing that, ßf γου get

one Γrom somerι,here else, go out and demand some Attic honey,

since that τηιßΙΙ make your cheese-cake superb. This is the rvay α

freeborn man should live, else down below the earth, even belorη-

τhe ρßτ andTartarus, he should go to his desιruction and lie

buτied countless Γathoms deep (Athenaeus 3.Ioιc e).

Regarding hors d'oeuvres, Nicostratus wrote ßη his The Ρει, "The

flrst platter, leading the main courses, τητßΙΙ contain α sea-urchin,

some ra\^/ smoked fish, capers, α rvine-sop [bread to dip ßηrvine], α slice οf meat, and τητßld buib ßη sour sauce" (Kock Ζ,.Ζι9;

Athenaeus 4.I33c).

PEPPER: It rvas served rvith the appetizers, evidently to increase

one's thirst.

SALTY SNACKS: Salty appetizers \η/ετε served before dinner,

lηrith wine, also to increase the desire tο drink.

ONIONS: ]t seems that onions had the same effect then as ηοιη-.

Ιη fact, Homer \Λ/rote, rηrhen describing Nestor's dinner, that he

gave out onions to cherηr ß,ητßth the lvine (Athenaeus ι.ιob; ΙΙßα,ß

ι I .6Ζ8-3ο).

ß} Ý,

Recipe 6

òΑτο,S GREEN oLιVESThe olive r,ηras, ßη antiqulty as it is tοdαχ the hors d'oeuvre parexcellence. Aristophanes, discussing appetizers, pondered pick-]ed olives: "Do γου, master, love the ladies i,vho are over-ripe orιhε virginai ones with bodies firm as olives sτeeped ßη brine?"(Athenaeus 4. I33α).Νο exact recipe has come dornrn to us forhorηr olives \\rere prepared ßη ancient Gτeece, but ßη Cato's trea-ιlse οη agriculture rηre have various Mediterranean recipes thatalmost certainly sholηr that olives have alr.vays been prepared as

ιhεγ aΤe today

Cato rnrriτes: "Pick the olives before they turn black. Tλke αηγgrorvths off of them and place them ßη α water bath. Change τhε

lvater frequently and rvhen they are rηrell soaked, separate themand ιoss them ßη vinegar, adding οßΙ and ι7ο grams of salt perelght and one half liters of olives. When γου are ready to usethem, take them out of the marinade, season them vrith fenneland α myrtle branch that has been soaked ßη οß1" (Αgι. Iο7; ιο8).

The recipe is clear and needs ηο explanation.

\Τοιε: If γου harvest or purchase γουι ο\Λ/η olives, follorηr Cato'sιvater bath pτocedure, changing the rvateτ daity for α ιηreek.

The rπrater should have αt least Ι/+ cup of salt per gallon of r.vateτ

( ιοο g per 8 liters) rηrhen soaking the olives. Bags or sacks ofolives are also sold ßη ltaly, and ßη ltallan-American markets, ßηα saltrnrater brine. Either way, α half-pound of olives, presoaked,or purchased ßη brine sacks, can then be put ßη α jar rvith equalparts of οß1 and vinegar and let to sit for at least α rnreek, rηrith

Γennel and myrtle added at the end of the rveek. Rinse the olivesbefore serving.

kecipe 7

OLΙVES ΡΙòΚLΕD ΙΝ FENNEL"First of αΙΙ, cover them rnrith cold pickling sauce so that they

maintain theiτ color; rnrhen theτe are enough gathered ιο fill α jar,

cover the bottom of the jατ with fennel and myrtle branches thατ

have been prepared ßη α small kettle, Νοιπ take the olives out of

τhε pickling, torvel them dry and mix ßη seeds, completely refill-

ing the jar. FßηαΙΙγ, cover the top vrith dry anise and Ζ parts of

dry fresh mustaId and ι of oil,/vinegaτ bτine. Olives treated τhis

rvay urill last α year."

Note: See Recipe 6 fοτ the fteatment of rarnr olives. Iη ιhis case,

the οßΙ and vinegar solution should contain fennel and myrtle,

rnrith anise and mustard added to the brine. The olives should

remain ßη the brine for several days to α rnreek before they aτe

eaten.

DRIED OLIVESThese are the ripe, bulbous, ιπτßηΚΙεd black olives that are found

ßη Sicily,They must have existed even ßη Archestratus's day, since

he vrrites ßη his Hedupatheia, "Serve those mature rnrrinkled olives."

Clearly these are the same dry olives seryed toda14 and as ßη

Archestτatus's day they are best rπrhen seasoned ιητßτh fennel, He

explains that this is because "ßη pious memory of Marathon |ßηGreek, "maraτhon" means fennel] for αΙΙ τßmε, τhεγ αΙΙ ρυτ

marathon ßη τhε briny olives" (Athenaeus z.56c).

ιι-

ι,I

ι

Recipe 8

SEA URCHΙNSThe most triumphant οf αΙΙ the appetizers are the fruits of the

Sea: Sea urchins and oystels.

"The best are those full of red or orange eggs. Also qυßτε goodare 1},ose rnrhose eggs gleam vrith α gelatinous substance rnrhen

they are pulled arπay {τοm the shell. Dress them ιιrith honey,

mint, and parsley diced and minced, to bring out the besτ fla-vor" (Archippus Fishes),

Archippus's sauce for sea urchins:

Ι tablespoon honey

3 tablespoons vinegar

Ι tablθSpoon mint

Ι tablespoon parsley

Dissolve the honey ßη the vinegar, then finely mince the parsleyand mint and mix the spices into the honey and vinegar. Whenready to eat the urchins, split them ßη trnro, cleaning α\Λ/αγ the

spine. Find and clean the egg, pour α dollop of the sauce οη the

egg ßη ιhe shell, and enjoy.

Recipe 9

VVILD ΗΥΑòΙΝΤΗ BULBS (LAMPASCΙONI)

Some appetizers \^/ere made of ingredients that rηrere reviled bydiscerning eaters. Athenaeus wrote about α group of authors

rηrho evidentiy did ηοß love hyacinth bulbs and did not share the

beliei common at the time, that cabbage or kale protecτed

against drunkenness and hangover. "Goodbye, Ι say, to sauce

dishes filled \^/ith bulbs |hyacinth] and kale and to αΙΙ other

cheap relishes" (Athenaeus Ζ.64α).

Basing this recipe οη the ancient one, \\re see that the basics are

alr.ιrays the same. Even if the recipe does not include α method

for ταΚßηg α\Λ/αγ the terrible bitteτness of the bulbs, it is evident

τhατ το render them edible, the bulbs should be boiled, ιητßτh

numerous changes of urater. Then they are peeled, and α sauce

is made to season them.

About ºΟ hyacinth bulbs, boiled and ready

Sauce:

º teaspoon each thyme and oregano

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 tablespoon each honey, vinegar, and ιαιßηε must

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

3 tablespoons minced dates

Salt to taste

Μßχ αΙΙ sauce ingredients and pour over the bulbs, adding fresh

pepper to taste.

Recipe ro

Vl/ΙLD HYACINΤH BULBS AS Α LOVE ΡΟΤΙΟΝThese rose-colored bulbs, vrhich convey α false innocence, aIe

actually α famous aphrodisiac. This seems to have been αη ac-

cepτed fact, going back many centuries, as Martial rηrrites οf τhε

bulbs (ι3.34): "Given that your lηrife is old and your member

is dead, γου can οηΙγ hope to use rηrild hyacinth bulbs to fill υρyour stomach." Ιη ancient Greece the hyacinth bulb was rvidelybelieved to have aphrodisiac properties; such bulbs couidrearηraken the ardor of Venus even for the most impotent of men.

Here is αη old proverb ßη support of this belief: "Jusτ one

hyacinth bulb cannot help γου lf γου are not already α true

man." The consumer rηras thus rηrarned that the hyacinth bulblvould do its best ßη the battle of love, but that it was also neces-

sary for τhe loyer tο exert himself, The belief ßη this aphrodisiac

\\las so strongly ingrained that centuries iater, ßη ancient Rome,ivild hyacinth bulbs were served ιο ner,ιrlyrnreds before they r.vent

ιο their nuptial bed. One of these recipes r,vas given by Apicius(l .r+.ò), derived from Varro. He seems not much concerned

τνßτh τhε biτιer properties of this ρlαητ, τecommending simplyιhat one boil them without either honey or cheese as ßη the

Greek recipe, ßη αΙΙ likelihood they rvere none too tasty. Givenιhαt the recipe added other aphrodisiacs, such as arugula, it

seems he rηras less concerned lvith flavor than rηrith their ama

iory effbcts. After α11, for α successful rvedding night, it was the

lesults that mattered: "For those searching for the joys ofVenus,

ιοß1 rηrild hyacinth bulbs ßη \Λ/αtετ, and for the true honeymoon,serve them lvlth pine nuts and α sauce made by boiling arugula

and adding pepper."

] dozen ινßΙd hyacinth bulbs, already cleaned and

boiled several times, or, if already marinated, rinse

the bulbs until there is ηο more οßΙ

5 οΖ. (2ΟΟ 9) arugula

α handful of pine nuts

3οßΙ the arugula for about three minutes, then drain it and putι α biender r.ιrith 1 teaspoon pepper. Pour the \Δ/ατm green sauce

]\ er warm bulbs and add α sprinkling οf pine nuts.

\^/ιLD ΗΥΑòιΝτΗ BULBS \ΛrΙτΗ ΗοΝΕΥ"Look, if γου please, at the bulb, and see r,vhat lavish expense itrequires to have its reputation-cheese, honey, sesame-seed,

οßΙ, οηßοη, vinegar, silphium. Taken by itself alone ßt is poor and

bßττετ" (Athenaeus z.6ae).

Recipe ιι

ΤυRΝΙΡS ΙΝ MUSΤARD]t is not necessary to Comment οη Athenaeus's recipe(α. I33c-d). One can decide r,ιrhat quantities to use, based οη the

follorving directions: "the turnip root, γου cut ßη thin slices,

gently cleaning α\Λ/αγ the undried outer skin, and after dryingτhem ßη τhe sun α little, either dip α quantity of them ßη boiling\Λrater and soak them ßη strong brine; or again, put equal parts ofrηrhite must and vinegar ßη α jar together, then plunge the slices

ßη ßτ, having dried them off rηrith salt. Often, tοο, γου may poundraisins and biting mustard-seeds urith α pestle and add it tothem. \^/hen cream of tartar forms, and the tοΡ gro\^/s more and

more bitter, then 'tis time to dτατητ off the pickle for those rηrho

seek their dinner."

4 white turnips, cleaned

] rounded teaspoon mustard seed, crushed1/Ζ cup (125 ml) οßΙ

1/Ζ cup (]25 ml) vinegar

Slice the turnips thinly and ρυt ßηtο α pot of boiling water for

one minute, and then rinse them and dry them, and let them

cool. Stir the other ingredients together ßη α jar and toss ßη the

drμ cooled turnip slices. Cover the jar, and let the turnips sit for

αι least tr,ιro days. They can last about α month and are served

direcτly ουτ of τhε jar.

Recipe ι Ζ

SτUFFED LEAVES (τΗRΙοΝ)These are none other than the stuffed grape leaves, called "dol-

mas," that can be found everyrvhere ßη Greece and Turkeχ but

ßη ancient times, {τesh, tender fig leaves cailed "thrion" lηrere

used instead of grape leaves. Iη some parts of Greece dolmas are

still made rvith fig leaves, and those lvho have tried them say

ιhαt they are identical to those made ιι,ßth grape leaves, though

perhaps α bit srηreeter. Today the fillings νατχ and this rvas prob,ably true ßη ancient times as rvell. Certainlμ rice, the most com-

mon filling today did not then exist, but some other sort ofgrain filling rvas used, possibly spelt.

If γου rvish to fοΙΙοτηι the ancient recipe, γου may use young,

fresh fig leayes or grape leaves, but there is also α modernTurk-ish recipe that suggests using cherry, apricot, or bean leaves.

Hor.ηreyer, grape leaves are currently the easiest to find and use,

and one τhus may be spared the bother of finding them and boiling them just to the perfect consistency.

This filling can be used lηrith αηγ type of leaf γου choose.

2Ο grape or fig leaves, ready (either prepared by

boiling fresh leaves, or from α jar already spiced)17ε cup (26Ο 9) spelt or bulgur

2 cups (º,/Ζ liter) broth or u/ater, plus extra for the

final cooking

1 teaspoon Salt

3 medium onions, sliced thickly

21/ι cups (6οο g) ρΙαßη yogurt1/ι cup (6ο mI) olive οßΙ

2 tablespoons butter (to soften onions)

Ιf γου are using fresh leaves, rηraslr and thoroughly clean them;

or use store-bought leaves. Toss them ßη boiling \^/ater, remoyethem after α felv moments, and put them οη α rnrork surface. Pickthe best ones and set them aside for the dolmas. Select α copper

ραη that r,vill αllοßητ the rolls to snugly fit one next tο the otheτ.

Use αηγ broken leaves to completely hne the bottom of the ραη,overlapping to ensure γου cover the rηrhole surface; this will helptlre rolled stuffed leaves stay put during cooking.

Ν

Μßχ the grain and sa]t and cook unti] tender ßη the broth or\η/αtετ. \Λ/hen this is done, pinch off small pieces of the paste,

forming them into finger-sized sausage-like rolls οf filling.

Το sτuff τhε grape leayes, start by sτreτching ουτ τhε leaf and

placing α roll of filling ßη τhe cenτer. Fold υρ one end and τhe

sides, rolling the leaf around the mixture iike α cigar, makingthem about Ζ, inches long by ι inch rvide (ò by υ cm), makingsule to tuck ßη the ends to pIevent leakage. If γου have enoughfilling for more than one layer of leaves, make another layer οη

τορ υητßΙ αΙ1 of τhε filling is used υρ. When τhε rolls are αΙΙ ßηthe ραη, cover the dolmas lιlith broth or \η/αtετ and οßΙ and place

α plate οη tορ, to \veigh dorηrn the rolls during cooking. Cookover α lorηr flame for about one hour, checking frequently to

make sure there is sufficient liquid ßη the ραη.About ιò minutes before the rolls are done, make the sauce:

Sautü the onions ßη the butter until so|t but ηοt brorηrn. Add the

yoghurt and α bit of the cooking \Λ/ater from the dolmas, and

pour this sauce over the rolls just as γου are ready to serve them.

GRASSHOPPERS AND CΙCADASThere r,ηrere α few surprising items among Athenaeus's appetiz-ers. \Δ/ε may be graτeful that today they have disappeared lromthe menu, but they vrere sufficiently appreciated ßη Arisτo-phanes' day that one of his characters exclaimed, "Good heav-

ens, horv Ι yearn to eat α grasshopper and α cicada (cercopÝ)

caught οη α thin reed" (Athenaeus 4. I33b;Aristophanes ,Alagyrus

ßη Kock ι.4ο4).

] don't knorv whether these insects would have been cooked as

ΙstαηbιlΙ clams are cooked today sker.ιrered three by three οηsticks, floured and then fried, but even prepared this ιναγ, Ι

vrould not be tempted to try them. Hoιι.ever, if anyone shouldrηrish to do so, feel free. InAfrica, they are often talked about andmy African ηαηηγ assured me that "grasshoppers are s\Λ/eet as

cafe latte."

Soups and Vegetables

Recipe ι3

τΙSΑΝΑ (BARLEY SoUP)Aristophanes mentions tisane, α well-knorηrn barley soup that rηras

highlighτed ßη one recipe siτed by Cατο and four oτher versions

found ßη De re coquinaria. ΑΙΙ the recipes based οη barley r.ιrere the

same except for Apicius's, rηrhere he used various sauces.

"ΤλΚε previously cleaned barley that rnras soaked ßη water the day

before cooking. Wash and crush the barley. Put it οη to cook withwατετ ovel α high flame. When it starts tο boil, add ρΙεητγ of οß1,

α small fτesh branch of anise, diced dried οηßοη, savory, and α

bit of ham and have it cook together until it becomes creamy,

_\dd coriander and salt and serve lt υρ" (Apicius 5.5.ι).

1Ο οΖ. (25Ο 9) ulhite barley

\^/ater (about 4 cups)

2 tablespoons olive οßΙ

] teaspoon anise

º minced οηßοη

º pinch of savory

1 pinch of chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)

Ι thick slice of prosciutto or ham

salt and pepper to taste

-,Ζ!*χ*Þò§.:*l§-

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StιΦfºr,,- \ {, Þι

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>-,'.rf;?,rab*", ,,

τ;]

'=_ -

Recipe ι4

ΡοLΕΝτΑ (coNDRoS)"Βυτ rηrhen making α dish of goat, iamb, οτ α chicken freshlykilled, throrηr fresh grain (barley) ßη α ραη and crush it rηre]],

mixing ßη fragrant οßl. When the broth is boiling vigorously,put ßη the rest, then cover the ραη lηrith α lid and ieaye it tocook, covered, because that way the heavy mixture svrells, Serveτητßτh α (τablespoon) of ner.ηr lvine" (Nicander of Colophon,fr.68 Schneider).

Ι cup (25Ο ml) cooked barley2 cups (5ΟΟ mi) shredded lamb or chicken, cookedº οηßοη

º tablespoon parsley

3 sage leaves

2 cups (5οο ml) broth1/ι cup (6Ο ml) olive οßΙ

salt and pepper to taste

Το make this polenta, one can fοΙΙοιητ Athenaeus's instructionsfor barley soup or ιisana, Recipe ι3, replacing those spices andthe ham τηdth the above spices and meaτ.

The οηΙγ problem τητßτh τhßs recipe is τhατ το make ßτ properly,one should live ßη the countryside rηrhere it is possible to getfresh stalks of barleμ lηrhich are not found ßη city markets. Υουcan, horvever, substitute τrhite barley, or better yet, bulgur fromTurkey Both of these require pre-soaking and then cooking forsome hours. It is simpler, of course, to get packaged barley, Bothbulgur and this boxed barley are ready for cooking and οηΙγτequire α good crushing ßη α mortar or α blender, leaving itsomerηrhat grainy, ηοτ tοο fine.

Recipe ι5

ZENO,S LENΤIL SOUPAτistophanes always served υρ modest lentil soup, rnrhether ßηhis Gerytades or ßη his Amphiaraus (both novr lost), showing that itmust be α pleasing potage. He calls it, "the s\Λr€etest of delicacies"

(Athenaeus 4. i58c).

Ι lb. (45Ο 9) lenti|s

8 cups (2 liters) broth

º large minced leek

º carrot, ] stalk of celery, and º smal| οηßοη, αΙΙ sliced

2 tablespoons vinegar

Ι teaspoon honey

olive οßΙ

º2 coriander seeds

salt and pepper to taste

Rinse τhε lentils thoroughly then put them into α ροτ lπith the

broth to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour, When the

hour is υρ, skim the top, add the vegetables and leave simmeragain υητßΙ ßτ is cooked (about 3ο minutes). Ιf the soup seems

too ,\ηßαtετ)ζ mix ßη some cornstarch, or, better yet, pass some ofthe lentils through α sieve. Νοι,ητ add the vinegar and honey. Pour

ßητο serving bourls and add α good dollop of olive οßΙ (about Ζ

tablespoons per serving), sprinkling οη coriander seeds, and salt

and pepper to taste,

Ιτ seems as if Zeno vras pulling our leg urith this recipe, as he

πτites τhατ to finish off the soup, one should add ιΖ coriander

seeds. This commendable precision regarding α quantity is notcommon ßη ancient recipes, at least ßη those that are not medic-ßηαΙ, but assuredly these ιΖ coriander seeds radically change the

flavor of the soup.

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Recipe ι6

CHRYSIPPUS,S LENΤΙL SOUPThis soup is basically like the one above, but Chrysippus, τητhο

evidently loyed bitteτ flayors, recommends serving α soup com-bining lenτils and rvild hyacinth bulbs. Iτ is doubτful τhατ τhßsτητουΙd be α very popular recipe, but, then, there ατε so manyvarying tastes ßη the rvorld. Apicius did not mention such α soup,nor is there αη equivalent today but lf γου vrish, γου could makethe soup according tο Zeno, but adding half α pound of prepared hyacinth bulbs (see method above, at Recipe 9).

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Recipe τ7

\VILD GREENSGreens and herbs used ßη ancient times included vrild Ιeττυòe

(dark is best), watercress, coriander, mustard, melon, ρορργ,οηßοη (as ιητε11 as the variations such as scallions and leeks), gar-

lic, and celery.

2 lbs. (º kg) mixed greens, rarhatever is ßη season

(Ι chose chicory, parsley, ce|ery, chard, onions,

scallions, leeks, 9arlic)\^/ater

º teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

º tablespoons vinegar

Piace the cleaned gIeens ßη cold, salted rπrater and bring to α boii,

making sure not to overcook them. Lift them carefully out of the

pot r-ιrith α slotted spoon or large fork. Season them urith οß1

and vinegar.

Ιη Rome, one can nornr find α mixture of herbs such as those

cited ßη the Greek recipe. This combination is generally large-leaf

lettuce, chicorμ arugula, urild fennel, garlic, rπatercress, and

mint leaves. I have never found coriander, melon, or rnrild mus-

τard ßη the mix, and οηßοη and celery are sold separately.

Certainly, anyone rnrho rηrishes could add to the list, and culti-l-ated plants are iust as acceptable as wild.

PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ

N,]oDERN V/oRLDToday dishes based οη

field and wild herbs have

changed somervhat, or,ving

to the introduction of Nev/

World plants, but they are

directiy derived from the

traditional recipes. For

example, the follovιin9

recipe for "Cooked \Yater"

combines Old aιiιJ Nevy

World foods.

«cooKED \^/AτER,

This is α countTy soup, which can be served dry or soupμ

according to the amount of rnrater used for cooking. Belor,ηr is αη

indicative iist of herbs, but one could use almost αηγ greens that

suit your fancy.

Ι-3 cups (1/4to1/2Iiter) cold \^/ater per person

2 sliced potatoes per person

] Jerusalem artichoke (or cardoon)

hops

] bunch of chicoryΙ bunch of salad greens

Ι bunch of red ρορργ floιyers

Ι bunch of borage

2 tablespoons of lard

chopped 9reen pepper to taste

3 or 4 cloves of garlic

] οηßοη

α dash of sagebasil to taste

The οηΙγ problem is finding αη obliging meadorπr that urili yieldαΙΙ of these soup ingredients. Α city dinreller could make his,/heτ

ourn list and hopefully get from the greengrocer τhose ingredi- ]

ents not found ßη the urild-but be prepared fοτ some sτrange Ι

looks. Be that as it may if γου succeed ßη procuring αΙΙ τhese Ι

items, including cardoons (α thistle-like vegetable νßττυαΙΙγ |

unknorπrn ßη the United States), here's hour to make the soup. lΡυτ cold, ΙßghτΙγ salted \Λ/ater ßη α ροτ and then add ßη τhe

Ι

ροτατοεs. When τhe potatoes are nearly cooked, add τhe greens, Ι

cut into large pieces, Peel the Jerusalem altichoke and chop I

coarsely. The otheτ greens should be urashed and cleaned, I

discarding αηγ tough or discolored leaves. Νεχι add the lard, IpeppeI, garlic, οηßοη, sage, and basil and stir. Let it boil for ΙΖ5 minuτes. Serve it ßη α bolπl οη top of α slice of crusτy coun-

Ιιτγ bread. l

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58

Recipe r8

SALAD DRESSΙNGΙη The l4loman Who Le[τ Her Husband, the αυτhοτ, εßτhετ Diphiius orSosippus, rηrrites the follorving:

Α: Have γου got sharp vinegar ßη the house?

Β: Ι fancy so, slave, and lve have bought rennet. ΑΙΙ this Ι rvil]squeeze together ßη α nice dish for them, and the salad r.ηrith sourdresslng shail be served for αßΙ" (Athenaeus 4. I33η.

º cup (25Ο ml) curdled milk, buttermilk, or sour creamº tablespoon vinegarsalt and pepper to taste

Μßχ αΙΙ ingredienτs, chil] ßη the refrigerator, and pour ΙßghτΙγover salad.

The οηßγ problem i.vith making this simple dressing, yrhich isloly ßη calories, is finding curdled milk.You can make γουι ο\Δτη

by adding α squeeze of lemon to fresh milk, or γου can use but-termilk οι sour cτeam, The recipe makes enough dressing forΓουτ iarge plates of salads.

Κτ*βξLMeat

Recipe ι9

ALEXANDRΙAN MIXED ΒΟΙLΕD ΜΕΑΤS

"Follolving these viands platters vrere passed round containing

many kinds of meat prepared with water-feet, heads, ears, jarnr-

bones, besides guts, tΤipe, and tongues, ßη accordance rnrith the

custom ßη shops αt Alexandria called 'boiled-meat shops"'

(Athenaeus 3.9+c).

Αεχαηdτßαη boiled meats \Λ/ere α mix of various pork bik: feet,

heads, cheeks, ears, tripe, intestines, and tongue, Iη Turkeμ

another country that grevr and prospered under Hellenism, theτe

aτe òτßΙΙ ιeòταυταητò rnrhere τhe sole ßτem οη τhe menu is ishkembe

shorbasi, α πipe soup that seems to beaτ α close resemblance to

Aιexandrian boiled meats. It is unimportant lηrhether there is ßη

fαòτ α direcτ τeΙατßοη beτr,ηreen τhe τrnro. Whατ mαττeτò is τhe facτ

that, ßη Aιexandria, there rnrere speciaι restaurants that served

οηΙγ one particular dish. Tτrenty yeals ago ßη Turkey, each small

ιεsταυταητ (osτeria) \Λ/αs τßεd το α specialτy dish, If one did ηοτ

wish to patronize αη Occidental style restaurant, one had to

move from Iestaurant to Iestaurant ßη order to get α complete

meal. If one had strong legs, α good appetite, and time to spare,

this rπas α diverting \Λταγ to spend αη afternoon or evening, Ι do

ηοτ know if τhßs is sτßΙΙ true todalι but Ι sincerely hope that ßη

Istanbul one can still move from α metze place to one serving

doner kebabs, then move οη to α fish restaurant for fried clams

ßη pastrμ then οη to α chippura, and finally end the evening rπith

some loukum from α great bakery.

2 pig's feet

ΥΖ pig's head

2 pig ears

α bit of pork or beef tripe, according to taste

heart, lungs, liver to taste

pig's tongue

1 medium οηßοη, mincedΞ

t

º clove garlic, finely chopped] small carrot, sIiced1/Ζ cup (º25 ml) chopped parsley

º teaspoon pepper1/Ζ cup (125 ml) ιπhite ιaιine vinegar (if intestines are

added, double the amount of vinegar)

Fill α large pot with \Λ/ater and ι teaspoon of salt for each tr,vo

quarts of\Λ/ater, and add standard soup seasonings: οηßοη, ceiery,garlic, carrots, parsley pepper, and rηrhite rvine vinegar. Bringthe \^/ater to α boil, then add the meats, and reduce the flame tomedium. Cook until tender (about 3ο-+ο minutes). Serve boil*ing hot and offer α sauce iηrith it, such as the mßηt sauce ßηRecipe Ζο.

Note: Boiled pig can be very gamey. Using already-cooked head,cheeks, tongue, feet, etc. from the roasted, stuffed pig ßη RecipeΖΖ yields α much better result: less fatty and more flavorful. Thisis especially true of the head and feet, since they are largely fat.

The cheeks and the portion betrηreen the ears and tongue havethe most meat. Our test cook declined tο use intestines.

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Recipe υο

Ι,ΙΙΝτ SAUCEThis recipe for mint sauce is similar to the one at Recipe 4, but

rnre found this version less cloying, and more delicious.

4 tablespoons dried mint (or Ι handful of fresh mint)

º teaspoon pickled green peppercorns

2 teaspoons saffloιiver

6 tablespoons (θΟ ml) olive οßΙ

2 tablespoons vinegar

Mint is easy to find and can even be grovrn ßη α rnrindornr box, Ιη

bazaars ßη both Turkey and Egypt, the red pistils of safflo\Λrer, or

"false saffron," are passed off οη the unsuspecting tourist, rnrho

believes he or she is getting genuine saffron. It is nevertheiess

delicious. Chop αΙΙ the spices, or crush them ßη α mortar. Whisk

the mixture into the οßΙ and vinegar, and add salt to taste, Let it

sit for ατ least αη hour to allorπ αΙΙ the herbs to mingle urith τhε

vinaigreτte. Excellent with the goat and ροτΚ τecipes follovring.

Recipe Ζ ι

RΟΑSΤ ΚΙD GOATThis recipe is from Apicius, but is evidentiy universal.

"Take τhe baby goat and τυb it well with οßΙ, then toss οη pep-per, α lot of salt and coriander seeds. Put it ßη the oven, roast itand serve it" (Apicius 8,6,8),

Ι/zbaby goat, about 5-7 pounds (2-3 kg), skinnedand cleaned

olive οßΙ

plenty of black pepper

4-5 teaspoons saltα generous handful of coriander seeds

Place the goat ßη α large casserole, coating urell yrith olive οßΙ, andrubbing ßη τhε salt and pepper. Before ρυτtßηg it ßη τhε oven,sprinkle it with coriander seeds. Piace ßη α 3Ζ5Ο F ( ι6ο" C) ovenand bake, basτing it wßτh iτs ornln juices until ßτ falis off the bone(45 minutes to one hour). Delicious urith mint sauce, Recipe 2ο,

Recipe ΖΖ

SΤUFFED SUCKLΙNG PΙG

Garden-style suckling pig, according to Apicius: "De-bone the

pig starting at the throat, rendering ßt something similar to α

rηrine skin, and fill it rηrith chicken meatballs, vrild doves, and

thrushes, its οlητη meat added into meatballs, pitted flgs, driedand prepared rvild hyacinth bulbs, shelled snails, beet greens,

leeks, celerμ boiled kale tops, coriander, peppercorns, pine nuts.

Οη top οf this, add ι5 hard-boiled and diced eggs, and α sauce

made from liguamen (either garum or dressing from olive οßΙ,

vinegar, and spices), mixed r,ηrith lots of crushed pepper. Brorηrn

the pig ßη α ραη and then put it ßη the oven." Apicius then con-

cluded by suggesting sauces to serve r,ηrith ßt.

18-2Ο pound (4 kg) suckling pig

For the stuffing:

2 thrushes (pigeons can be substituted and are easierto find), de-boned and cut into small pieces

1 small duck, de-boned and cut into small pieces

4-6 figs, diced] cup (25Ο mI) cooked kale

ß cup (25Ο ml) already cooked, dried, and dicedhyacinth bulbs (see preparation method at

Recipe 9)r,/z teaspoon coriander1 cup (25Ο ml) chopped leeks

1 stalk celery, chopped2 tablespoons pine nuts

º pound (5ΟΟ 9) τ,vheat polenta or fine bu|gur, cooked,cooled, and cubed

Ι2 eggs, hard-boiled, cooled, and diced (Ι used 12-larger here than ßη ancient Greece)

1/Ζ cup ('Ι25 ml) dressing (οßΙ, vinegar, and garlic)

Garnish:

12 oysters out of the shell

º2 clams out of the shell

]

Fo]lorη,. Apicius's instτuctions above, having α butcher de-bone

τhε pig lor γου, or doing it yourselfifyou are braye. Preheaτ τhε

oven το 4òοΟ F (Ζ3ο'C). Lightly mix τhε sιuffing ingredienτs,

adding τhε eggs and dressing last. Sτuff τhe pig and serηr ßτ closed.

Rub olive οß1 and salt into the skin. Cook fοτ Ζο minutes ßη the

hot oven to seal ßη the juices and to brolπn it. Then turn oven

το 325Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for about αη hour and α hali or υητß1 iuicecomes ουτ clear rηrhen pig is pricked with α fork ßη the thickest

ραττ of τhε τhigh.

{lr{ι .Ι:' 'τΙ ,'

| Ι-"

Recipe Ζ3

ROSE A,ND BRAΙN PUDDΙNG"...Ι call τhis rose dish rodonia and Ι prepare ßt ßη such α manner

that rvhen γου eat it, γου ηοt οηlγ have α designated cro\Λ/n οη

your head, but are also perfumed within, treating your body to

α truly complete meai. Crush the most aromatic roses ßη the

morτal, and then carefully place chicken and pig brains, de,

nerved and rveii-dressed, rnlith egg γοΙκ, then season r,ηlith olive

οßΙ, garum, pepper, and rηrine, Μßχ together rnrell and ρυt ßt ßη α

ηε\η/ pot to cook over α Ιοτητ, constant flame, When the cook

opens the ροt, everyone present rηrill smell the delicious aroma

of roses."

We incιude this recipe for completeness rather than practicalit1,

because τhe ingredients are almost impossible to obtain ßη this

day and age. Perhaps someone, maybe α larmer ßη the Greek

countryside, can make this dish. Make sure γου use homegrorι,n

roses aS the commercially raised ones are heavily sprayed,

ºΟ οΖ. (3ΟΟ 9) pork brains

8 οΖ. (2οο 9) chicken brains

2 tablespoons vinegar

α few slices of οηßοη and carrot

2 tablespoons marsaIa ινßηε

pepper

3ο aromatic roses, petals plucked and crushed

2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc-nam)

2 tablespoons olive οßΙ

5 eggs, beaten

pepper to taste

Immerse the brains ßη cold rvater for αη hour, then drain, The:l

place them ßη cold salted r,nrater mixed rvith vinegar and α fe,ι

slices of οηßοη and carrot. Bring the \Λ/ater to α boil, and τhει

lovrer the flame and let the mixture boil for about ιrvenτy min-

utes. As soon as the brains are cooked, put them into cold rvaιe:

again and r,vhen they are completely cooled dorη,n, skin and de-

nerve them. Set them aside ιο dry covering them rvith peppe:

that has been soaked ßη Marsaιa τητßηe. Μßχ the brains ιvith thι

66

eggs, τhε rose petals, the fish sauce, and α little οßß, If γου do not

have α brazier, rηrhich could give uniform heating to the dish,

fοΙßοι,ητ the Greek formula and brorηrn the mixture fiτst, and then

press it compactly ßηtο αη oiied mold. Cook it ßη α doub]e-

boiler for αη hour, or until the mixture is hardened. Το test if it

is done, stick α toothpick ßηtο the flan; it should come out clean.

Unmold ßτ onto α plate, sprinkle rvith pepper, and serve.

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Recipe Ζ4

BOΙLED PΙG,S FΕΕΤFrom various texts \Λ/ε are given to understand that pig's feet

r-ηrere served. Antiphanes ßη his Thel4/oman of Corinth, rηrrites: "Andthen α litτle pig's foot to Aphrodite" (Athenaeus, 3.95e-f ). Τhατ

ιhey vrere served boiied is explained by Pherecrates ßη The Miners:

"trotters lηrell-boiled" (ibid., 3.96α);the same author mentionedιhem again ßη his The Slave-¸acher (ibid., 3.96b).

6 pig's feet (ask the butcher to iemove the bristlesand cut them ßη quarters)

3 quarts (3 liters) \Vater

º large οηßοη2 carrots3 stalks of celery2 tablespoons salt1/Ζ cup (125 ml) white vinegar

vinegar and pepper to taste when serving

Put 3Ζ cup (Ζοο ml) \^/ater ßη large ραη yrith Ζ tablespoons of salt

and % cup (ιΖ5 ml) i.ιrhite rnrine vinegar. Bring το α boil, addingthe diced vegetables, \Λ/hen the $/ater returns to α boil, add the

pig's feet, r,ηrell cleaned. Cook until they are τητε11 done and faltingofΓthe bone, about ι5 minutes for small pig's feet or 3ο minutesfor large ones. When they are cool enough to touch, ρυ11 the

meat off the bones and heap it οηtο α plate. Sprinkle with pep-per and vinegar to taste. Serve hot rηrith lots of fresh bread.

Noτe:The lefτover broth is good for making ΙεητßΙ soup: iusτ add

lenti]s and cook. The spices and meat flavor make for αη interest-ing and delicious soup.

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Recipe Ζ5

slÞοΚΕD ΡιG,S FΕΕτPig's feet can also be served smoked, and ßη this case they are

served covered ßη melted, smoked cheese. This dish was once

readily available ßη Rome: one had οηΙγ to go to α store special-

izing ßη porchetta dei Castel]i, α pig stuffed and roasted rηrhole,

highly salτed and spiced, rηrhich vras served at festivals and food

sιands α11 over ltaly. But recently it has become hardeτ to find.

6 smoked pig's feet;2 pound (3ΟΟ g) grated smoked cheese

1 tablespoon olive οßΙ

Put the pig's feet ßη αη oiled ραη and cover it vrith cheese. Cook

Γor about ιο minutes ßη α hot oven (about +25Ο F or ΖΖòΟ C) to

αΙΙοτητ the cheese to melt.

τοΝGυΕAτistophanes mentions tongue ßη α list of alteτnatives to

anchovies (Athenaeus 3.96c). Βυt there is ηο information as to

holv they \Λ/ere prepared. Probably they were boiled and then

flavored r,ηrith some garum (fish sauce).

ORGAN ΜΕΑΤS_\lso mentioned by Aristophanes (Athenaeus, ibid.) is α laundry

Ιßsτ of internal organs: liver, inrild boar kidneys, τibs, tongue,

spleen, and piglet tripe, α11 slaughtered ßη autumn, vrhich he

recommends be served vrith hot rolls. Dioxippus ßη Α Foe to Pimps

menτions "srnreetbreads, paunch, and entrails" (ibid., Iooe),

ιyhile Eubulus, ßη τhe Deucalion, lists chicken livers, guτs, lungs,

and tripe.

So\M,S BELLYThis dish is mentioned by Alexis ßη The Μαη from Pontus, makingfun of τhe oraτor Callimedon, who r,vas nicknamed "τhe Lobsτer"

(or Crayfish) because of his greediness: "Every man is vrilling το

die for his countrμ but Cal]imedon the Crayfish rηrould doubtless

submit to death for α boiled sow's paunch" (Athenaeus 3. ιooc).

Boiled sor.v's belly lvas served iηrith α sauce based οη vinegar and

silphium. Keep ßη mind that silphium (ηο longer found) had α

flavor like garlic. So ßη ουτ time, obtaining α sorv's belly and

ιvishing tο eat it-t\Λ/o things that seem improbable to me-itrηrould do to mix vinegar, mixed rvith crushed garlic and perhaps

α bßτ of οßΙ, sαΙτ, and pepper (ibid., 3,ιοοÞ. Iη Μαη of Science,

Sopater rvriies: "α slice of sorηr's matrix ηοt over cooked, r,ηrith

pungenτ brine-and-vine8ar Sauce inside" (ibid., 3. Iοια).

VULVA ΕΙΕòΤΙΤΙΑThis rηras the νυΙνα of α sorηr that had miscarried. Τt rηras consid-

ered especially tasty and it rηras mentioned by Hipparchus, ιhe

author of the Egyptian liiad (Athenaeus 3 . I ο ι α) .

The enτraiis of lamb, goats, pigs, and oτher domesτicaτed

animals rηrere αΙΙ eaten ßη antiquity, and many are sti]l seryed

today. Hor.ιrever, although they rvere considered delicious de]i,

cacies ßη former times, sornr's νυΙνα and breasts are not eaien

today. For these foods, we have Apicius's recipes and rηre knorι-

that normally νυlνα \Λ/αs eaten boiled and accompanied by α

sauce similar to the one listed ßη Recipe Ζ4 for boiled pig's feeι.

lιrhereas solηr's breasts, once boiled, vrere sprinkled r,vith salt, ρυιοη α skeιver, and roasted or grilled or stuffed lηrith "αΙΙ of god's

best." Even if rηre rηranted to try these dishes today rvhich Ι dουbι.

it i,vould be impossible given the mechanized meat-processing

systems: after the animal is completely emptied and the parts αι€

butchered, it yrou]d not be possible to locate the νυΙνα or breasts

of α sornr.

Seafood

,\ccording to Daphnus of Ephesus, Archestratus took α trip"ατουηd the world" to gratiφ his palate as rηrell as his more basic

appetites. (We must bear ßη mind that his "rηrorld" r,ηras limited:ο Greece, Magna Graecia, the Bosporus, and part of the coast ofAsia Minor.) υροη his return, he counsels α friend as to rηrhere

:ο eat and rvhat to order:

Eat, dear Moschus, α slice of Sicilian tunny, cut at the time rηrhen

it should be salted ßη iars. But ιhe shabar, α τelish from Pontus, ]

rvould consign to the lorηrest regions, as rηrell as αlΙ ιητhο pτaise it.

For ferηr there be among mortals rryho knour that it is α poor and

insipid morsel. Take, horvever, α mackerel ιhree days out οf the

,vater, before it enters the pickle and rηrhile it is still nerv ßη ihe

iar and οηlγ half-cuιed. And if thou go to the sacred city of glo-

rious Byzantium, eat again, Ι ρταγ γου, α slice of horaion; foI it is

good and luscious, (Athenaeus 3. Iι6f- ιι7α)

Then he goes οη to list αΙΙ the Κηοτητη mollusks, explaining rvhere

:ο find the best ones:

Aenus produces large mussels, Abydus oystels, Parium crabs;

Mitylene scallops. Ambracia, too, supplies very many, and along

rηlith them monstlous. . . . and ßη Messene's ηαττο\Λ/ frith ιhου

shalτ gετ giant lιrhelk, ßη Ephesus also the smooth cockles, not tο

be despised. Calchedon gives oysteτs but as for perir-vinkles

("heralds") may Zeus confound them, rηrhether they come from

the sea or the assembly, excepting one man οηΙγ. That man is my

comrade, his home is οη Lesbos of the luscious glapes, and his

name is Agathon (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 3. 9zd-e.)

Recipe Ζ6

LoBSτER"Βυγ yourself α lobster, the kind yrhich has long clarvs, and

heavy urithal, vrith feet that are small, and but slowly crarπls he

υροη τhε land. Μοsτ of them, and the best of αΙΙ ßη qυαΙßτγ, are

ßη τhε Lipari Islands; yet the Hellespont also gaτhers many"

(Archesτraτus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 3. ι o4f- ι οòα).

4 live lobsters, about Ι pound (4ΟΟ 9) each

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

'Ι tablespoon vinegar

α Iarge pinch of oregano

3 tablespoons salt

pepper to taste

Make α marinade from the οßΙ, vinegar, olegano, and salt and

pepper, and put ßt aside. Slice the live lobsters ßη half and put

τhεm το cook οη α grill. As they cook baste them òοητßηυαΙΙγ

rnriτh the marinade. Check often to see if they are cooked (ßιabout 5-7 minutes they should turn red ßη the shell);too much

cooking makes them tough and inedible.

Recipe Ζ7

FRIED SI{RΙMP"...If γου ever manage to get to lasus, α city of the Carians,

γου rnrill get α good-sized shrimp. But it is rare ßη the market,

rπrhereas ßη Macedonia and Ambracia theτe aτe plenty" (Athen-

aeus 3. Io5e).

2 lbs. (t Κ9) shrimp

lots of οΙßνε οßΙ for frying

salt to taste

Put about 1/Ζ cup ( ιΖ5 ml) of οßΙ ßη α frying ραη and when ßt is

very hot but not smoking, toss ßη the shrimp. Fry them for 6-7minutes, stilring frequently and gently.

Recipe Ζ8

ΑΜιΑ (BLUEFIN τυΝΑ)

As for the amia, prepare that ßη ιhe autumn, rηrhat time the Pleiad

is settlng, and ßη αηγ way thou likest. Why need Ι recite it for

τhee rvord for rnlord? For thou canst ηοι possibly spoil it even ifτhou so desire. Still, if thou insist, dear Moschus, οη being

insirucτed here also is the best r,vay to dress τhat fish, rvrap ßτ ßη

fig-ieaves urith α very iittle marjoram, Νο cheese, ηο nonsenseI

Just place it tenderly ßη figJeaves and tie them οη top with α

sfting; then push ßι under hot ashes, bethinking thee wisely of

ihe ιßmε yrhen ßt is done, and burn it υρ not. Let it come to ihee

{τοm lovely ΒγΖαηtßυm ifthou desire the best, yet ινßΙτ get rvhat

is good even if it be caught somerηrhere neal this place here.

Βυτ ßτ is poolel the farther thou goest from the Hellespontine

Sea, and ßf thou jouιney ovel the glorious coulses of the briny

Aegean main, it is ηο longer the same, but utterly belies my

earlier praise (Archestratus quoιed ßη Athenaeus 7 .Ζ,7 8α- c).

ΤυΝΑ COOKED ΙΝ ASHES

2 pounds (º Κ9) tuna, cut into pieces

enough grape leaves to hold the tuna (about 4Ο)

4 teaspoons fine salt

2 pinches of marjoram

Make α Þrood fire and let it buτn dor,ηrn to embers. Μßχ the

chunks of fish lvith the salt and mar]oram, then ro1l them υρßη the leaves, like burrltos, so that the mixture is secure inside.

Using αΙΙ due caution, place the rolls οη top of the ashes, let-

τßηg τhem cook about 5 minutes tο α side, being careful not toburn them.

«GoNoS"

Ligurian red and Sicilian neriιlborn transparent gobies

Sardine sprats or young sardines

Sea anemones from Sardinia

Count αΙΙ small fry as abomination, except the Athenian; Ι mean

gonos, urhich the lonians call "Γοαm" |sεpiolite, still found today

ßη Sicily, where many old Magna Graecian habits are preserved,

palticularly the terms for sea life; the little f,sh called nunnata

(newborn) are calied grommo, r,vhich means mucousy] and accept

it οηΙγ rvhen it is caught fresh ßη the sacred arm of Phalerum's

beautiful bay.That rvhich is found ßη ocean-rηrashed Rhodes is

good, if ßτ be native. And if γου desire to ιasτe it, γου should ατ

τhe same τßmε get at the malket some nettles-sea anemones

crornτred lvith leafy tenιacles. Mixing them with it, bake it ßη α

ραη, αΓτετ γου have made α sauce οΓ the fτagrant tops of choice

greens mixed ßη οß1, (ArchestΙatus, quoted ßη Aιhenaeus

7. z85b-c)

Ενßdεητßγ τhε besτ \Λ/αγ το tasτe these tiny ΙßττΙε fish (gonos) vras

to cook them ßη αη herb sauce.

Archestratus also recommended sea anemones. Given thaτ

τoday these animals are ηοß sold ßη fish markets, one vrould have

tο find them oneself at the seashoIe. But remembel to \Λ/eατ

gloves and be careful tο keep them far from the eyes. Once

harvested and r.ηrashed carefully under running iΛrater, insert α

finger ßηtο the opening \Λ/here the anemone \Λ/αs attached to the

rock to remove αηγ bits of stone that might remain ßη its bodi,

cavity. After that, clean the anemones again ßη running \Λ/αtει

to rid them of αηγ traces of sand and let them marinate αη hουτ

ßη vinegar. Α disciple of Archestratus added that, given the

small amount of heat needed to òοοκ these little fish and

anemones, it was enough iust to toss ihem into α ραη that had

begun tο sizzle.

74

Recipe Ζ9

ΒΙτs AND PIEcEs: SMALL FISH FRY

2 lbs. (] kg) fish eggs, baby sardines, and smelt(ßη lieu of transparent gobies, sardine eggs,and anemones)

salt to taste

οßΙ for frying

α pinch of thyme

α pinch of rosemaryα pinch of oreganor,/z οηßοη, minced

Chop τhε fish ßητο small bites after cleaning thoroughly and rins-ing ßη salt \Λ/ater. Heat the οß1, add the spices and οηßοη, andτητhεη the onions are brovrned, add the fish, Αt the fiτst sign ofsizzling, take them out, and serve them immediately,

Recipe 3ο

ΤΗΟRΝΒΑòΚ RAY"Eat α boiled ray ßη the season of mid-rvinter, r,ι.ith cheese and

silphium οη ßτ. And so, r.ηrhatever offspring of the ocean have

α flesh that is not too fat should be dressed ßη this way"(Athenaeus 7.286d). And aiso, "Scylla's stralt ßη r.vooded ΙταΙ1,

contains the glorious iatus, α rηronderful food" (Athenaeus

7.3ιIf).

3 lbs, (2 Κ9) thornback ray or skate

1 gaIlon (5 liters) of \^/ater

1 cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

3 tablespoons coarse Salt

Ι οηßοη

2 carrots2 stalks of celery2 bay leaves

1 stalk of parsley

º tablespoon pepper

grated pecorino cheese

2 garlic cloves, minced

One eats οηΙγ the vrings and liver of the ray, It is good boiled.but οηlγ lvhen very fresh.

Ρυt the \vater, vinegar, salt, and αΙΙ the spices, except th€

pepper, rηrhich is added ßη the last ten minutes, ßηtο α ραη large

enough to hold the ray. Put ßη the ray and cook over α lorηr flame.

siovrly bringing the ραη to α boil and then lorvering τhε flame

α bit more, controlling the cooking. After ιο minuτes, add ιhe

pepper.The ray should be done ι5-Ζο minutes after the saucτ

boiis: the meat τνßΙ1 be coming arvay from the cartilage. Put it οια plate, and remoye the skin (if necessary). Μßχ the cheese τ-η,ßý

the minced garlic and sprinkie over the ray. Let the dish sit for α

fe\η/ minutes, so the flavors have α chance to blend.

.

ß

Recipe 3 ι

SΤΕ\ΜΕD CONGER EEL"Ιη Sicyon, dear frieιrd, γου have the lread of α coιιger eel, Ιαt,

vigorous, and large; also αΙΙ the belly parts... ," and later, "γου

can catch α nice conger-eel, lηrhich is as muclι superior to αΙΙ

other fishes as the fattest tunny |tuna] is superior to the poor-est cro\Δ/-fish" (Aτlrenaeus 7 .Ζγf - ι,9 φ).

"Τ pralse α11 eels, to be sure; bιιt much tlιe best is the eel caughtßιι thατ part of the sea rηrlrich is opposite the straiτs of Rhegium.There, γου citizen of Messina, have the advarιtage over α11 othermortals, for γοιι can put such food as that ßο γουι iips. And γετthe Copaic and Strymonian eels bear α very mighty repute forexcellence; for they are large and r,ι.onderfully Γat. Iη general, itis my belief τhατ τhe eel is king of αlΙ yiands ατ τlτε feasτ andguides τhe rvay το pleasure, though ßτ is tlre οηΙγ fish το whichnature lιas given ηο scrotum" (Athenaeus 7.z98e-f ).

Here Athenaeus is er.ldently talking about adult eels οη τheirαηηυαΙ ιnigration to their sparvniιrg grounds ßη the Sargasso Sea;

the rest οf tlιe time, adult eels live ßη rivers, lakes, and ponds.

3 lbs. (2 Κ9) of eel, heads and beIlyº 9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of rvater

] cup (25Ο ml) vinegar3-4 tablespoons sea salt1 οηßοη

] carrot2 stalks of celery2 bay leaves

1 staIk of parsley

3Ο peppercorns

Sauce:

6 tablespoons οΙßνε οßΙ

2 tablespoons vinegar2 cloves garlic, minced

] stalk of minced parsley

α large pinch of oregano

One οηΙγ eats the head and belly of the eel, since the rest is noth-

ing but spines.

Slice and chop the vegetables, and add them to τhe vrater.

Add sαΙτ, peppercorns, and vinegar, and, lastly, the cut-up eel.

Bring to boil and cook for about ιò minutes. Serve ßη bowls with

\Λ/ατm crusty bread, and add the basting sauce for taste.

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Recipe 3Ζ

BAKED BLUEFIN ΤυΝΑ"And have α tail-cut from the she-tunny-the large she-tunnχΙ repeat, lηrhose motheτ-city is Byzantium. Slice it and roast it αΙΙ

rightly sprinkling just α little salt, and buttering it \Λ/ßτh οßΙ, Εατ

ihe slices hot, dipping them ßηtο α sauce piquante; they are niceeyen if γου \Λ/αηt to eat them ρΙαßη, like the deathless gods ßηform and stature" (Archestratus, quoted inAthenaeus 7.3o3e*f).

The ancient Greeks used vinegar as r,,ιre rηrould ηο\Λ/ use lemonjuice. When lemons rηrere first imported, Greeks and Romansconsidered them useful οηΙγ to protect rnrool from moths, as α

plevenτative against snakebites, and as the best antidote to αηγ

kind of poison. Unfortunately, it never dar.ηrned οη them τhat the

lemon could have alimentary value.

21/Ζ lbs, (1.5 kilos) of tuna

3 tablespoons fine salt

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

vinegar to sprinkle over the top just before eating(also superb is α mixture of vinegar, οßΙ, and garlic)

For this recipe there is little to add to rηrhat Archestratus stated

above. Ρουτ the olive οßΙ and salt over the fish and cook at about

375Ο F (ΖοοΟ C) for 3ο-4ο minuτes, depending οη ßτs τhickness.

It is done when the skin is crisp and the tuna comes arvay fromthe bone, juicy but not bloody. It can also be cooked directly οηthe grill, οη fοßl, for about 5-7 minutes per side.

Recipe 33

ΚιτΑRοS (BRιLL, τυRΒοτ, oR SoLE)"As for the citharus [brill], if it be rηrhiτe and hard and large, Ι

bid γου ρυt it ßη leaves ßη clean salt r,ηrater and boil it" (Arclre

straιus, quoτed ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b).

If γου have α laτge and r.ηrhite brill, boil it ßη this manner:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of brill, turbot, sole, or flounder

2 gallons (5 liters) of \^/ater

Ι cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

2 tablespoons coarse salt

º οηßοη2 carrots2 celery stalks2 bay leaves

º stalk of parsleyΙ,/Ζ tablespoon pepper

grape leaves

Put the cut υρ fish into grape leaves and tie them securely vrith

kitchen string, Next chop the vegetables and put them ßη α iarge

cooking pot rvith the cold \η/αtετ, the spices, and the vinegar.

Place the rvrapped fish ßη the mixture and sloivly bring the rvater

οηΙγ to α simmer; \Λ/atch it carefully to see that the rvater does

not boil violently. A|ter ι5 minutes, check to see if the fish is

cooked, as it will depend οη hοτητ thick the fish pieces are. Whendone, take the fish meat out of the leaves, discarding the leaves.

Pour the sauce oyer the fish and serve, sprinkling wßτh vinegar,

ßf more flavor is desired.

For α less labor-intensive verslon, place the fish directly ßηthe stelηr pot, ιvithout the leaf wrapping.

Recipe 34

BAKED ΤυRΒΟΤ FOR SIX"But if it be red ßη appearance, and not too large, bake it αfτετ

γου have sτabbed its body ιητßth α sτraight knife, freshly sharp-

ened. Then smear it rηrith αbιιηdαηòe of cheese and οßl. For itlikes tο see people who spend moneμ and it is prodigal" (Arche-

stratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b).

2 small turbot, about 21/Ζ lbs. (1.4 kg) altogether4 teaspoons Salt

6 οΖ. (3ΟΟ 9) grated parmesan or sardo cheeseplenty of olive οßΙ

Gut and clean the fish as necessaly. Prelreat the oven to 35οΟ F

(ι8ο'C). ]υsτ before you're ready to bake, salt the fish. Usingα sharp knife, make α series of cuts οη both sides of the spineand fill them τη.ßtΙι grated cheese and οß1. Slatlrer the fistr rηrith οß1

and bake it ßη α well-greased ραη for 3ο minutes. Also deliciousgrilled οη thc barbeιue.

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Recipe 35

SΜΟΟΤΗ DOGFΙSHThis recipe \Λ/οτΚs for αΙΙ types of dogfish, such as marlin or blueshark, or mahi-mahi ßη the United States.

Ιη this city of Τοτοηθ γου should buy the belly-slices of the

dog-shark, cuι from ιhε hollolv palts be]o\Λι. Then spτinkle them

ντßτh caτarvay,seed and α little salt, and bake. Ρυτ nothing else,

my friend, υροη it, unless it be yellola οßl. But afteT it is baked,

γου may τhen fetch α sauce and αΙ1 ιhose condiments r,vhich go

ιητßth ßτ. Βυt rηrhatsoever γου stew r.ηlithin the ribs οf the holiovr

casserole, mix ηο lηrater from α sacred spring, nor wine-vinegar,

bυι simply ρουι ovel it οß1 and dry caraway and some fτagrant

leaves αΙ1 togetheι. Cook it over the hot embers rvithout letting

the flame τουòh it and stir it diligently lest γου unwiττingly

scorch ßτ. Ναμ not many mortals knorv of τhßs heavenly viand

οτ consent tO eat it-a]l those mortals, τhat is, τητhο poSSeSS the

ρυηγ soul οf the booby-bird, and are smitten rvith palsy because.

as they say, the creature is α man-eater. But eveτy fish loyes

human flesh if it can but get it" (Archestratus, quoιed ßηAιhenaeus 7.3ιoc-e).

2-3 lb. ('Ι,5 Κ9) slice of smooth dogfish or mahi-mahi

3 teaspoons Salt

6 tablespoons olive οßΙ

plenty of carararay seeds

This fish is cooked οη the griil. Bathe the piece or pieces abui-dantly rvith οß1 and sprinkle them rηrith salt and cara\Λ/ay seeds,

then place it οη the grill. Iη some dishonest restaurants dog-fish is cooked this rvay and passed off as syrordfish, alτhougtthe particular taste of dogfish cannot be concealed from the

cognoSCenti.

Υου can serve it rvith α sauce rather than the cararvay seeds:

one of the best is Sicilian pickling, from the nalive environs ο:Aτchesτratus himself, This dressing is made by mixing οß1, vine-gar, oregano, α felηr cloves of gaτiic, and α bit of r.vater. Regard-ing Archestratus's comment about such fish eating men, don'i

be impressed: although the dogfish is ßη the shark family it is α

completely innocuous fish and vrould never dream of bitlnganyone. Athenaeus adds that this fish is the same one the Romans

called tursio.

Recipe 36

MoRAY EEL"Beτrηreen fSicily?] and ltaly under τhε rηraves of the narrowsτταßτ, liyes τhε lamprey fmoray eel] called the floater. Ιf ßτ ever be

caughτ, buy it, for it is α wonderful food" (Athenaeus 7.3I2f).

3 lbs, (].5 kg) moray eel or yellow eel

Sauce:

º handful of lovage

lots of oregano

α large pinch of mint'l οηßοη1 glass of dry white ιvine

enough \Λrater to cover thθ eel

2 teaspoons honey

27Ζ teaspoons salt

Crush togetheτ the sauce ingredients ßη α mortar. Clean the eel

τrell and place ßt ßη α ραη; cover it with the sauce, rπretting it as

necessary inrith r,ηrine or $/ater. Cover the eel urith this mixture,

then add enough ]Λ/ater tο cover the eel. Cook it οη α lornr flame

υητßΙ it is urell done. There should be α bit of sauce remaining.

Recipe 37

ELECΤRIC RAY"And αη electric ray stevred ßη οßΙ, r,ηrine, fragrant herbs with α bitof grated cheese" (Archesτratus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3|+Ü).

It ιητß11 be difficult to taste this dish as one nevel sees electric eel

ßη the market. Horηrever, should γου manage to find it, here is

the recipe:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of electric ray

4 teaspoons saltα small glass of dry white ινßηεα handful of οηßοη, celery, parsley, and carrots

to flavor the broth

31/Ζ οΖ. (1ΟΟ g) grated cheese

Cook slor.ιrly ßη α terracotta pot rvith salt, r,ηrine, οß1, and herbs.

adding the grated cheese at the last minute. Archestratus probably r.vould have used pecorino cheese, not having parmesanavailable, but ßt is best rηrith parmesan.You choose. Cover the raν

lvith the cheese and r,vhen it has baτely meited, take it out of the

ραη and serve.

Recipe 38

S\Λ/ORDFISH"But rnrhen thou comest to Byzantium, get α slice of sr.ηrord-fish,

the joinτ òυτ right lrom the tail. This fish is also good ßη τhe

sτraighτ hard by the edge of Peiorum's ßυττßηg forehead"(Athenaeus 7.3I+e).

21/Ζ lbs. (2 Κ9) swordfish3 teaspoons salt3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

vinegar to taste

This is quite similar to Recipe 3Ζ by Archestratus. Get slices ofswordfish about αη inch thick, and roast them οη the grill,adding α bßτ of salτ and οßΙ per slice. Grill about 2 mßηυτεs perside; do not over- or undercook. Serve as is, ιητßth α spritz ofvinegar (or lemon), or rηrith the fο]Ιοß.ητßηg dressing: olive οß1,

vinegar, salt, oregano, α clove of garlic, mixed ιητßth α bit of\Δ/ater; shake it ßητεΙΙ, or stir with α branch of oregano.

L

Recipe 39

SCORPION FΙSH"Βυτ inThasos buy the sculpin fscorpion fish], if ßτ be ηοτ big-

1

ger than thine arm's length (Athenaeus 7.gzo.f 1, ι

j

This recipe is from Apicius: ß

21/zlbs, (].5 kg) scorpion fish ß

3 teaspoons salt Ι

pIenty of olive οßΙ Ι

] packet (º οΖ, or 3Ο g) saffron Ι

Ι/Ζ teaspoon cumin Ι

ιΛ/ater to cover the fish Ι

Archestιatus suggests buying α scorpion fish ηο longer τhαη γουτ Ι

arm (αbουτ Ζο inches or 55 cm). Clean it τητεΙΙ and place ßτ ßη α Ι

ραη urith αΙΙ τhε rest of τhe ingredienτs, rnrell ground and dis- Ιsolved ßη the οßΙ and α little rηrater. Cover the flsh ιητßth waιer. ald Ιcook about ι5 minutes after the \Λ/atel has come tο α boil, or Ιuntil τhε flesh comes ar,ιray from the bone. Take τhe fish ουτ and Ιòοητßηυε το cook the liquid until it τhickens, adding α bßτ of Ι

Recipe 4ο

PARROT FΙSH"At Calchedon by the sea bake the mighty parrot-fish, after rvash-ing it urell, But ßη Byzantium, too, thou urilt find ßτ good, andas το ßτs size, ßτ bears α back equal to τhε ciτcling shield. Dressthe rvhole as Ι shall describe. After it has been thoroughly cov-eτed vrith cheese and οßΙ, take it and hang it ßη α hot oven andbake ßτ το α τυτη. Sprinkle it uiith salt mixed rπith carar,vay-seed,and υτιτh τhe yellol,v οßΙ, pouring its divine fουηταßη from τhγhand (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3zοα).

Ι parrot fish, about 4 lbs, (2 kg)6 tablespoons olive οßΙΙ/Ζ cup (3ΟΟ g) 9rated pecorino cheese4 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Βυγ α large whole paτIot fish. Scale, gut, and urash ßτ. Ρυτ ßτ ßη αheavy pot, preferably terracotta, and cover rnrith οßΙ, cheese, andsαΙτ, (Ιτ is best if γου make transverse cuts οη both sides of thefish and inseτt τhε salt, cheese, and οßΙ ßη these cuts,) Put the fishßη τhε oven at 3Ζ5Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for 3ο-45 mßηυτεs, dependingοη the thickness. Once cooked, put it οη α serving dish andsprinkle οη α bit more salt and the carav/ay seeds, adding α goodquantity of οßΙ (if γου urish).

Recipe 4ι

BREAM"Whensoe'er Orion is setting ßη the heavens, and the mother ofthe rnrine-bearing ciuster begins to cast arnray her tresses, thenhave α baked sarg fbream], oveτspread rnrith cheese, large, hot,

and rent urith pungent vinegar. For its flesh is by nature tough_

And so be mindful and dress every tough fish ßη the same uray.

Βυt the good fish, r,ηrith naturally tender, fat flesh, sprinkle rnriτh

α little sαΙτ οηΙγ and baste ivith οßl. For it conτains ντßτhßη iτself

alone the relηrard of joy" (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus

/_ζLlL).

2 bream, each about 2 lbs. (º kg)

orº large bream, about 3 lbs. (º,5 Κ9)

1 teaspoon table saltΙ/ι cup (º5Ο 9) grated pecorino cheeseplenty of olive οßΙ

balsamic vinegar for the table

Make three transverse cuts into each side of the fish, rubbing ßηα little salt, and putting the cheese ßη the cuts, and then pour ýeolive οßΙ over the fish. Roast it ßη the oven (35ο" F or ι8οΟ C) for2ο-3ο minutes, or untii crispy. Serve it \Λ/ith good quality bal-samic vinegar.

Bream meaτ is quite salty. Other, more tender fish, such as

the grey mullet or bass, can be cooked ßη α similar manner vrithmore salt, and once ßη α τrhile sprinkled ντßτh οßΙ during baking-

Recipe 4Ζ

CUΤΤLEFΙSH"Cuττle-flshes ßη Abdera, and ßη(Athenaeus 7.324b).

mid-Maroneia as lvell"

The οηlγ recipe found for making cuττlefish ßη black ßηΚ comes

from Apicius (ò.Ε.ò). Using rvhat he says as ινε11 as indicaτions

from other Greek authors, one can leconstruct this delicacy:"Take tiny cuttlefish, as they are, rηrith αΙΙ the blackness and cookßτ αlΙ τogeτher. [Ρυt it ßη α ραη] and add οßΙ, dressing, ιη,ßηε, andα 1eek, and green coriander. Cook it thus." The recipe continuesτητßth the sauce suggested by Apicius, that is, the ßηΚ, cooked

together τητßth the ingredients listed above by the other authors(milk, cheese, honey garlic, and s\Λ/eet herbs).

Recipe 43

CUΤΤLEFISH ERASΙSTRAΤUS SΤYLEOther authors speak about α cuttlefish sauce probably made fromßτs black ßηΚ, τητhατ they call "blood": Erasisτraτus r,ιrriτes ßη his Αττ

of CοοΚετμ "It is made lvith cooked meat, ste\Λ/ed ßη rvell-beatenblood, honeμ cheese, salt, caralvaχ silphium (garlic), and vine-gar." Glaucus of Rhodes π.riies ßη his Culinary Arts: "ure are deal-ing here rηrith the blood sterved vrith garlic and cooked rηrine,

honeμ vinegar, milk, cheese, and srηreet minced herbs."

2 lbs. (º Κ9) cuttlefishΙ/Ζ cu9 (125 mI) olive οßΙ

2 cloves garlic, slicedΙ teaspoon Salt

α pinch of carararay seeds

2 teaspoons honey

lιlhite ιπßηε vinegar or lemon juiceΙ/Ζ cup (]25 ml) vghite vιuine

Ι οΖ. (5Ο 9) diced feta cheese

Clean the cuttlefish, setting aside the ßηΚ sacs and being òατεfι]]ηοt to ρορ them. Heat the οßΙ ßη α lrying ραη and sαυtÝ garlicυητßΙ it is golden. Remove the garlic, put ßη the cυτ-υρ cuttlefish.and Ιετ ßτ fry α biτ \η/ßßh the salt, caraway and honey, then add τhεßηΚ. When it is crisp, add α good sprinkling of vinegar and τhe

τητßηε, follorηred by the cheese. Continue cooking until the cheesεhas made α soft sauce.

Recipe 44

RED MULLEΤThe Greeks held certain bizarre beliefs regarding mυ]]ετ, α frshthey believed rηras sacred to Aτtemis the Virgin. If α man \^/ere todrink wine ßη r.ηrhich mullet had been dipped, his sexual desirer,vas roused, \Δ/hereas r.ηrhen α \Λ/οmαη dτank the same rηrine, itiηrould make her calm. This potion, better than today's birthcontrol ρßΙΙ, would impede pregnancy (Athenaeus 7.32òd).Cooked mulleι did not have the same ρο\Λ/ειs, but it vras reservedfor gala afτernoon dinners. After praising the muiiet from τhεcity ofTeichious ßη the Milesian region, Aτchestratus continued,"Also ßη Thasos buy α red mullet, and γου wili get one that isnot bad. Ιη Teos it is inferior, yet even it is good, Ιη Erythrae,too, ßτ is good, rvhen caught by the shore" (Athenaeus 7.gΖòε).\Λ/ßthουt α doubt, this fish, more than others, orηres ßτs qualiτyto rηrhere ßτ comes from. Ιη certain ]ocations τhis fish is full of α

disgusting acid.

"Clean it and place it ßη α ραη urith α mixture of pepper, lovage,oregano, mint, οηßοη and α solution of one part ιvine, one ofgarum or οßΙ and vinegar, and α third part of honey and 'defri-tum.'This sauce shoujd cover the fish and rηrhen ßt is done shouldbe greatly reduced" (Apicius lxc. I6).

3 lbs, (].5 Κ9) red mulletpinch of pepper

1 branch of myrtle or α mixture of parsley and celeryIeaves finely choppedΙ small celery stalk, minced] sprig of parsley

2 pinches of oreganopinch of mint

Ι οηßοη

3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc nam)or α chopped sardine

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon brandy6 tablespoons wine

vr'ater

Tλke α vrell-cleaned mullet and put it ßη α ραη to fiτ snugly. Finelydice τhe οηßοη ivith αΙ1 the herbs and the sardine, if used. Μßχthe honey rnriτh τhε herbs and brandy and then dissolve ßτ αΙΙ ßηiπrine and α little \Λ/ater; add the fish sauce, ßf used. Pour the sauceover the fish, and put the ραη οη the fiτe. Let it cook at Ιο\Λ/ heatυηtßΙ it is done, about Ζ5 minutes. The bones should be easilyremoved, and the sauce should have been reduced to becomemedium-thick. Once α11 the bones are out of the fish, ρυt it ßη α

bornrl, ρουτ the sauce over it, and serve.

*^J

Recipe 45

ALBACORE ΤυΝΑ HEAD"Βυγ the head of α large tuna from the deep sea during the sum-

mer vrhen Phaeton guides his chariot fτom the sun ßη the max-

imum orbit and serve it boiling hot urith α sauce. Also buy α bit

of the belly το cook οη the spit. , . ."

"Αυlορßα" is none other than the albacore οτ longfin tυηα. Its

meat is the urhitest of the tunas and is generally the most deli-

òατε flavored. It is certainly the most digestible. Archestraτus

counsels boiling the head, obviously ßη rπater, salt, rnrine, spices,

and vinegar, and then eating it boiling hοτ. Iη theWesτ, τhε head

is seldom eaten, ιηrhereas ßη the East, for example, ßη China and

Japan, τhe head is considered the best part of the fish and is

offered το the guesτ of honor,

One may also grill skerπers of tuna steak, marinated lightly

ßη olive οßΙ, vinegar, garlic, parsley, and oregano, rnrith good

result.

Ι albacore tuna head

2 quarts (5 |iters) of \Λ/ater

ι/Ζ cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

3 tablespoons sea sa|t

] οηßοη2 carrots

2 stalks of celery

2 bay leaves

º bunch of parsley

3Ο peppercorns

Recipe 46

SCABBARD FISH

Ιη his book The,4rt of Cooking, Mithaecus gives α recipe fοτ cook-ing scabbard fish οf yrhich Epicharmus states: " The beloved rib-bon fish fscabbard fish], thin but srnreet, and requiring Ιßττßε frre"(Aτhenaeus 7325f). Mithaecus pτescribes: "Clean τhe insides ofα ribbon-fish afτer òυττßηg off its head, rπrash and cut ßητο slices,and pour cheese and οßΙ over them" (ibid.).

The scabbard fish is α silveτ fish, Ζ-Ζl/Ζ iπches (5-6 cm)uride and α little over α yard ( ι m) long. It is not often foundßη today's market. One good-sized flsh should feed αbουτ fourperSonS.

1 or 2 scabbard fish, depending οη size1/Ζ cup (ΙΟΟ g) freshly grated pecorino cheeseolive οßΙ to cover bottom of ραη and more for

covering the fish

salt to tastevinegar sprinkled οη each piece (balsamic is best)

Cut τhε fish ßη (Ζ-3 ßη. or 5-7 cm) portions and οßΙ τhe botτomof α roasting ραη, then arrange the fish ßη the ραη, covering itτrith cheese and then more οßl. If γου prefer, use paImesancheese ßηsτεαd of pecorino, but ßη Puglia ßt is stili τhought besτ

to make this fish rnrith pecorino. Sprinkie α bit of vinegar over thepieces, and then put the fish ßη α 35οΟ F ( ι8ο' C) oven for aboutι5 minutes.

94

]

L

Recipe 47

SΤUFFED SaUΙDThe comic r,ηrriter Alexis included the following recipe for stuffedsquid ßη one of his rηrorks, as reported by Athenaeus: "As for the

squids, Ι chopped υρ τheir fin, mixed ßη α 1ßττΙε lard, sprinkledthem r,ηlith seasoning and stuffed them τ.ητlth frnely chopped

greens" (Alexi, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7,3z6e).

4 large squid or 11/Ζ lb, (75Ο 9) small squid] teaspoon salt

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) diced beet or chicory greens

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

] bunch fresh parsley, chopped1/ι cup (]οο g) diced fat baconpepper to taste

olive οßΙ

Chop the τentacles rηrith the bacon, adding the garlic, parsley, andgreens, flash-fried and diced. Add α pinch of pepper and οß] andthen sτuff τhε squid vrith this mixture. Selηr ßι so τhαt the flllingdoes not fall ουt as it cooks. Ρυt ßt ßη α clay pot or shalloιιr roast-

ing ραη. Coaι τhe outside rvith olive οßΙ and α bit of salt and cookat 375" F ( ι9οΟ C) for haif αη hour.

Θ

Recipe 48

TRΙGGERFΙSH"If thou go tο Ambracia's happy land and chance to see τhe boaτ-fish [τriggerfish], buy it and abandon ßt ηοt, even though it cosτßτs r,veighτ ßη gold, lest haply the dread \^/τατh of the death]essones shall breathe υροη thee. For that fish is the florver οf nec-tar. Yet το eat it or even tο catch α glimpse οf it r,ηrith τhε eyesis ηοt ordained for αΙΙ mortals, but it is possible οηΙγ for thoservho carry ßη their hands the holloiηr plaited texture of slvamp

1

gro\η/n rope, and are skilled ßη the practice of tossing pebbles ßη Ιeager contention, and thror-ιring the bait of sheeps' joints'' Ι(Aιhenaeus 7 Jοòd). l

Lateτ οη Athenaeus \η.Tites: "Iη Aenus and ßη Pontus buy thepig-fish, which some mortals call sand-digger. ΒοßΙ its head rηriτhout adding αηγ seasoning; simply place beside it α poundedcaper-plant, and if thou crave aught else, drop οη ßt pungenτvinegar; soak it ß.ητe]1 ßη this, then make haste to eατ ßτ, even tοthe point of choking thyself ivith thy zeal'' (Aτhenaeus 7.3z6f).

As α child, Ι caught this fish urith simple joy and α bit ofbait, but Ι never rηrished to grab marsh bulrushes or use stonesor sheep's knees. Triggerfish are very tasty and almost α]Ι head,but the head has enough meat for α meal.

º large head of α triggerfishº 9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of vvaterΙ/Ζ cup (25Ο mi) vinegar2 teaspoon sea salt] οηßοη2 carrots2 stalks of celery2 bay leaves

Ι bunch of parsiey

3Ο peppercorns

Place the head ßη cold "court bouillon" and bring ßτ το boil andcook rηre]].Then add the aboye spices and herbs and fresh-pickedcapers. (If γου do not liye rηrhere the caper ρΙαηt grorvs, γου canuse capers pickled ßη vinegar.) Crush them ßη α mortar or ψ

ßßι.ιi.]&

§,ß

blender, and finish the sauce rηrith the αddßτßοη of οßΙ, vinegar,

salt, and pepper.

Recipe 49

BAKED GILT-HEAD BREAM"Οmßτ ηοτ τhε fat gilt-head from Ephesus, rnrhich people τhere

call ioniscus. Βυγ it, τhαt nursling of the holy Selinua. Wash ßτ

rnrith care, then bake and serve it τrhole even though it measure

τεη cubiτs" (Archesττaτus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3z8a-b).

3 IbS. (1.5 κ9) bream

3 teaspoons fine saltplenty of olive οßΙ

α generous sprinklin9 of vinegar

Even today Ephesus and its surroundings are famous for its

bream, called chippura by the Turks. Ιt is cooked for α half hour ατ

325Ο F (ι6ο' C) rubbed vrith οßΙ and salt, and served. Ιη αητßq-

υßt)ζ it vras served with α spτinkling of vinegar; today τre could

use lemon. Either ιnray is simple, and simply deiicious!

Sι,ι)

SALTED SΤURGEON"Of Bosporus τhε \Λrhitest that sail forth; but 1ετ ηοτhßηg be

added thereto of the tough flesh of that fish τrhich grorvs ßη the

Maeotic lake [ΑΖον Sea] -the

fish which may not be mentionedßη verse" (Athenaeus 7.z84e).This mυsτ be due to the fact that

the r,ηrord for "sturgeon" did not fitArchestratus's τhyme scheme.

\^/e do not knornr holπ this dish τras prepared. Later οη,

urhen Athenaeus discusses stulgeon, there is α critique ofArchestratus and his imprecision: "Archestratus, rnrho affected α

mode of life like that of Sardanapalus, speaking of τhε Rhodiandogfish, expresses τhε belief τhατ ßτ is τhe same as τhατ urhich is

carried about at Roman banquets to the accompaniment of pipes

and rvreaths, the slaves rnrho bτing it being croπηred rnrith

πτeaths; it is, he thinks, the fish called accipesius |sturgeon]. Butthe latter is smaller, longer of snout and moτe tτiangular than the

former, and the cheapest and smallest of them is sold fοτ not less

than α thousand drachmas" (Athenaeus 7.z94f-z95a).Thus, according to this telling, Archestratus mixed υρ

Rhodian dogflsh τrith sturgeon and declared it to be τhε fish τhat

the Romans carried to the table, crovrned and serenaded withflutes, by slaves ßη floral croπτιs. But it seems difficult to attrib-

ute this erlol to Archestratus, who lived ßη the fourth centurys.c,, \Λrhen the Romans neyer ate fish. The manner of seryicedescribed ßη Athenaeus's text appeaτed ßη the late second cen-tury to the early third century,η.o., and more precisely to the

Severian epoch, and it rnras certainly not α ceremony ßη urhichαη innocuous bottom feeder such as dogfish rnrould have

been served.

DoGFISH"]η Rhodes there is the dog-fish, οι τhIesher shark. And even ifγου mυsτ dir for it, if they rvon't sell it το γου, ταΚε it by force.

The Syracusans call it fat dog. Once γου have got it, submit

patiently thereafter to whatever doom is decreed for γου"(Athenaeus 7 .z86α).

This fish is the shark most often seen by those iπho live near τhe

Mediterranean coast. It is not dangerous, given that ßt feeds οη

mollusks and small fish. It is eaten fresh, soon after ßt is caughτ.

Other cookbooks relating to fish do not share Archestratus's

enτhusiasm. They say τhis flsh is inferior το τhe smooth dogfish

and they recommend palticularly spicy recipes ιο hide its taste-

less flavor.

ANGLERFISH"Where-ever thou seest α fishing-frog fanglerfish], buy ßτ . . . and

dress the belly-piece" (Athenaeus Z.286d).The text says "bellμ"

bυτ Ι τhßηΚ something there is something off about this quoτe.

Ιη Ιαòτ, τοdαγ, rve still enjoy the anglerfish, bυτ r.ηre eat the ταßΙ,

rηrhich, being τaτher ρυlργ, is cut into large slices. Due το ßτs sαΙτß-

ness, it tastes α lot 1ike spiny lobster. I don't believe the under-

beily is ever used ßη cooking.

SoLE"Then buy α large plaice fsole]"ance here.

(Athenaeus 7.υ88α). Νο guid-

«ELoPS, (PoSSIBLY MASKED oR FLAG FιSH)"As for the elops, eat that chiefly ßη glorious Syracuse, since itis the best. For that fish...comes from there, its native place.\Λ/heτefore rnrhen it is caught off the islands, or the Asian landperchance, or off Crete, it comes to γου thin and tough andr,ηrave-battered" (Athenaeus 7. 3ooe).

We do not knornr exactly vrhat this fish is. Greek dictionaτiestIanslate the urord elope as "sturgeon." It is, hornrever, defini-tively not sturgeon, as that flsh is hard to find ßη Syracuse, norurould it end υρ skinny and tossed back into the sea at Crete.One can οηΙγ imagine that this fish may be Αορßα vulpinus, τhεthτesher shark, vrhich often srnrims rηrith its fin οη the surface ofthe \Λ/ατετ and has α tail as long as the rest of its bodμ giving itthe name "flag fish" ßη Venice.

«LEBIA, (PoSSIBLY Α τΥΡΕ oF SEA BREAM)It is not easy to deduce \Λ/hat type of fish this rπas. It rnras alsocalled epatos, rnrhich means "liyer." Dioc]es said that it rπras α rock-fish. According to Aristotle, it rnras α soiitary carnivore τrith sharpteeth. According το Speusippus, ßτ \Λ/αs α iype of porgy. Aristoτle'sdefiniτion coincides vrith Speusippus' idenτification, making itprobabie that it \Λ/αs α porgy. Archestratus recommended buyingit ßη De]os or Tenos.

«ιΡΡυRΙ, oR «HoRSE, (ΑτLΑΝτιò MACKEREL)One is also ηοτ one hιιndred percent sure if this refers tο α typeof mackerel, which is even today called "horse mackerel": "the

horsetail fτom Carystus is the best, as ßη geneτal Carystus is α

region very rich ßη fish" (Aτhenaeus 7.3o4d).

GREY MULLEΤ"Βυγ α mullet ßη seagirt Aegina, and γου vrill have the companyof charming men" (Athenaeus 7.3o7d).

coD (oR ΗΑΚΕ)"As for τhe cod, vrhich they call callaria, Anthedon nuττures ßτ το

α goodly size, but it has, after αΙΙ, α rather ιpongy mεατ, and is

ßη geneτal not pleasant, at least to me; yet othels praise it very

highly; for one man likes this, another ιhat (Athenaeus 7.3ι6α).Archestratus did not give α recipe and it is easy to see rvhy; he

did ηοτ like hake, and neither do Ι.

ocτoPUS"Polyps foctopus] are best ßη Thasos and ßη Caria; Corfu, too,

nourishes large ones, many ßη number" (Athenaeus 7.3I8f ).

There is ηο recipe given for octopus, but they are still served

today, ηοt οηlγ ßη Greece but ßη ltaly r.ιrhere fisherman catch

them near the shore and eat them rarηr after pounding them and

rinsing them ßη the sea, or, as alr-ιrays, boiled freshly caught,

SALPA"As for τhε salpa, Ι shall forever iudge it to be α poor fish. Iτ

is most palatable urhen the grain is being harvested. Βυγ it ßηΜßτγΙεηε" (Athenaeus 7,3Ζιf).

This fish, called saupe ßη France, is not rηrorthy of α recipe.

,q_

Desserts

ºταòhemαtα: ßη Latln these r.ηrere caiied "the second tables." Indeed

they rvere usually carried ßη οη thεßτ orηrn tables (Athenaeus

Ia.639b),These second tables rηrere similar tο rηrhat we call today

our "after-dinner" treats. Durlng the "second seating," salty foodas rπell as s\Λ/eet rηras served. The difference \Δ/αs that during the"first seating" α full dinner ιηταs served, rηrhereas during the sec-

ond guests munched οη οηlγ tidbits, and drank.

There aτe various lists of what τηταs served for dessert. Phil-ippides ßη his Miseτ lisτs: "flat-cakes, dessert (epidorpismaτa),

eggs, sesame seeds" (Kock 3.3o7;Athenaeus 14.64od). Diphilusßη Telesias notes "α s\Λ/eet, some myrtle-beIries, α cheese-cake,

almonds" (Kock Ζ.ò67; Athenaeus I4.64od).

Recipe 5ο

AMιLoI (MAHALLEBI)These are οηΙγ mentioned by Athenaeus ( 14.644f ) . Amilos means

"starch." Cato r,ηrrites ßη the end of his recipe for amiloi \Λ/hαt to

do ιητßth the starch: "When the starch is dry, put it ßη α ner.ιr ραηand cook ßτ rnrith milk." He then makes it clear that one cooked

ßt until it became α cτeam dessert, although it is not clear

rηrhether it vras made to be salty οι slΛ/eet, probably leaving that

part υΡ tο the cook. Οη the other hand, for time immemorial,

starch has been used to make creams such as mahallebi ßη Turkey

or blanc mange ßη Europe.

2ι/Ζ (625 ml) cups milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3 tablespoons su9ar

1 teaspoon ναηßΙΙα (or 1 teaspoon rose\iater)

Dissolve the sτarch ßη α ΙßtτΙε cold milk. Meanrηrhile, ρυτ τhε τεsτ

of τhε milk ßη α ραη over α Ιοτητ flame, \I/hen the milk is hοτ, dis-

solve the sugar ßη it and add the starch mixture. Continue cook-

ing, stirring constantly, untll it becomes α pudding, about Ζ5

minutes, making sule not tο scald the bottom. Stir ßη the ναηßΙΙα

οι rose\Λrater. Usually it is put ßη α mold, and chilled for at least

3ο minutes before serving, although it can be Ρυt ßη α bornrl and

served \Λ/arm. Ιη ancient times, Tose\Λ/ater \Λιουld have been used

ßη place of ναηßllα, and honey instead of sugar, ßη vrhich case

use οηlγ Ζ tablespoons of sweetener, as honey is more delicate

than sugar.

Recipe 5ι

ΑΜΟRΒΙΤΕSWhατ 1ßττΙε r,ηre knorηr about this dish (Athenaeus ι4.646f ) is τhατ

this is α Sicilian dessert. Given that the etymological root means"shepherd" or "pastoral," ßt is likely that among the ingredienτsthere rηrere both fresh cheese and honey.

21/η cups (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese3/ι cuq (º75 9) honey

Μßχ these two together. It is delicious as is, or it can be put ßη α

strudel, betrηreen cookies, οι even ßη α cone!

Recipe òΖ

ΑΤΤΑΝΙΤΑΙΑτιαηßιαß is α fτied dough dessert mentioned by Hipponex is thisverse: "rηrhen eating francoΙin [α game birdj and rabbits, flavorthe fried teεanitas dough rηrith sesame seeds'' (PLG a.z.a7a).ºheterm for this dessert comes from the rηrord teganon, ''frying ραη.''This confirms that \Λ/e are dealing τητßth fτied dough and that thissame dough once had sesame seeds added. There is α similarGreek recipe τοdαγ called lukumaιhes, rvhich can be made byadding grated iemon rind to the batter and using cognac insteadof rηrine.

2Ι/ι cups (5ΟΟ g) ρΙαßη yogurt or curdled milk2Ι/Ζ cups (25ο g) flour4 tablespoons ιvhite vvinepinch of salt

li9ht οßΙ for frying1/Ζ cup (125 ml) honeycoId ιpater

sθsame seeds οη α plate (for rolling the dough afterthe honey has been drizzled over it)

Whisk together the curdled miik, ßητßηε, and sαΙτ. \Λ/hen lvellmixed, add τhε flour το make α pasτe τhατ is sοfτ and elasτic. (Ifthe rηreather is humid, more flour may be needed.) Let the doughchil] for ττττο hours ßη τhε τefrigerator. Ρυτ α iighτ οßΙ ßη α delpραη for frying, and rηrhen it begins to smoke, drop small .ροοrr-fuls of dough-3-4 at α time-into the οßΙ and fiy them υητßΙthey srvell and are τητeΙΙ brorηrned. j'ιe them out and drain themοη papeI tolη.els. Heat the honeχ diluting rvith α little coid rηraterτο make medium τhßòΚ syrup. Slather τhε fτied dough wßτhenough honey το soak ßη, and then roll the honeyed ball ßηsesame seeds.

Makes αbουι ιιητο dozen.

Recipe 53

BAsYNιASΙη τhε second volume of Semos's History of De]os (FHG α,α93), hestaτes: "Οη the island of Hecate the people of Delos offer to lrisτhε basyniai, as they are called.They consist ofdough from rnrheatflουτ boiled with honey, to urhich are added so-calied coccora

fpτobably pomegranate seeds], α dried fig and three uralnuτs''(Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Most likely this treat is τhe forerunner ofNeapolitan struffoli, α ,.ely sweet and elegant dessert of frieddough, held τogether υτßτh α sugal fτosting, which has ancientrooτs ßη this ρατt of Magna Graecia. Ιt is therefore possible toIeconstruct it urith οηΙγ mßηοτ changes. Theτe rnrere ηο olangesßη classical times: this fτuit rvas introduced from China intoEurope at α later date. Lemons, οη the other hand, urere foundßη much of the classical world. Ιη one of Antiphanes' comedies(367 z.c,) he speaks of lemon seeds, α rarity τhατ uras jυsτ beinggifτed το the Athenians from the Gτeat King,himselξ but τhεγIΛ/ere not yet ραπ of the food system. Athenaeus affirms that ßητhε second òεητυτγ ,q..o., although the lemon had α delighτfulfragrance, the fruit uras inedible. It rηras used οηΙγ ßη cupboardsaird dravvers to plotect rnrool from moths (Athenaeus z.83a-f).There r,ηras also α belief that boiling α rnrhole lemon ßη Attic honeyuntil the lemon completely dissolved made syrup that bothGreeks and Romans believed to be α plotection against everypoison, if taken medicinally ßη the morning.

3 cups (3ΟΟ g) fIour8 eggs2 egg yolks

2 tablespoons lard or olive οßΙ for fryingΙ pinch of saltΙ cup (25ο ml) honey

. pomegranate seeds4-5 dates, cut ßη piecesα dozen !Λ/αΙηυts, chopped

Place the fΙουτ οη α rnrork surface and make α τrell ßη the middle,Ρυτ τhe eggs, egg γοΙΚ, salt, and 1 tablespoon of lard ßη the mid-dle and mix τogether to foτm α dough. Roll it out rather thick,

]ο6

]

]

about 'Λ inch, and cut into long rorvs, then cut the ror,ηrs into

pieces about one inch long. Fry the pieces ßη α deep frying

ραη ιιτßth hot οßΙ until uniformly brovrned. Heat the honey ßη α

double boiler, and, rηrhen hot, drop the fried dough ßη and coat

well. Then pite τhe dough balls οη top of each other, making α

cone. If αηγ honey remains, pour it over the top, to αßΙοι,ητ the

rnrhole mass to stick together. FßηαΙΙßι decorate rnrith pomegranate

seeds, dates, and nuts.Yield: about 3ο fried balls of dough.

Recipe 54

òΑτο,S ΕΝòΗΥτοΙMenander mentions these ßη False Heracles (Kock 3.I48;Allinson458), and Athenaeus includes them ßη his section οη plakous

(ιa.6aac).The Loeb edition of Athenaeus erroneously translates

this dessert as α "molded" cake. The name ßη fact comes lrom α

Greek verb that means "turned back οη itself " or "trvisted." \Λ/ere

it not for Cato's recipe, the others yrould be considered valid.

The enchyti dough is "trvisted," but ηοτ ßη α mold; ßτ is made

by squeezing the dough tlrrough α tube to fall ßη spirals intohot cooking lard. It \Λ/αs the oldest Κηοτητη dessert and α repre-

sentation of pastry chefs cooking it is found ßη the tomb ofRamses Ιν ßη τhe Valley of τhε Kings, ßη Egypτ. Iτ seems τhατ τhßs

presentation mirrors that described by Cato and therefore rvas

eαιeη ßη αηιßeηι Creece.

This is Cato's recipe:"Make 'enchytoi' the same \η/αγ γου make 'balloons,' but use α

òΙοτh τητßτh α hole ßη it to press the dough τhrough, ßη spirals, ßητο

boiling faτ, about the size οf tr,vo sticks. When ιhey are ready,

coyer them rvith honey and heat them at α moderate tempera-

ture, Serve them rηrith honey and α s\Λ/eet wlne" (De agτ. 8ο).

Ι4 οΖ. (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese

]º/Ζ cups (15ο g) flour

plenty of olive οßΙ or lard for frying

Make τhε dough and place lt ßη α cookie press or ραsτιγ bag, and

let ßτ fall ßη spirals into the boiling (smoking) fat, making sure

tο keep τhε spiral rηrhole, It should be about Ζ inches (6 cm)long. When it is brown, take it out and put it οη paper torveis

το dry.\Λ/hen αΙΙ τhε dough it cooked, ρυτ τhe pastries οη α ρlατε,cover them rvith plenty of honey, and allorηr it soak ßη. Warmthem ßη α moderate oven (3οοΟ F or ιòοΟ C) for α fe\v minutesjust before serving them.

Recipe 55

PLAKoUS (SτRUDEL)Athenaeus talks αt length about this dessert. He cites Demetrius

of Scepsis; ßη his trvelfth-century book of Trojan Battle Order, τhere

r,vas α city named "Thebes under Plakos" (Iliad 6.òg6-97).1τseems that the rηrord means "plate," urhich is to say that ιhe ρΙαΚ-

ous \\Ias squashed flat. Clearly Cato's plakous \^/as not flαt, but,

although layered; ßt rvas probably flat οη tοΡ. Iη Greece there

\\Iere αη endless number of plakous and Athenaeus discusses

rηrhich \Λ/ere most delicious. The best rnrere considered those fromParos, so that Alexis ßη his Archilochus has one οΓ his characters

exclaim, "Ο γου fortunaιe old man, dlvelling ßη happy Paros,

rηrhich country out of α11 ßη the rvorld produces the tvro thingsmost fair, marble tο grace the Blessed, and |plakous] for mor-ταls!" (Aτhenaeus ι4.644b-c). Sopaτer ßη his farce The Suiιoτs of

Bacchus (Kaibel ι9Ζ, ) extols the quality of Samos's plakous, lvriτing,"Samos, vrhose name is fplakσus] maker" (Athenaeus 4,644c).

Cato's recipe:

¹ke tτητο pounds of lvheat flour to make ιhε outside layer, plus

four pounds of flour and trηro of spelt to make the layers. Sofτen

τhe spelt ßη waτer and when it ls swollen, put it ßη α clean knead-

ing trough after having dried it, then make the dough. When

it is lvell mixed, slor.ιrly add the fουι pounds of flour. Then, το11

out the dough and make layers, and put them ßη α basket το dry.

When τhey are drμ line them υρ and clean them with α cloth

soaked ßη oliye οß1, and then cook them. Next, τake the tτητο

pounds of flour; make bread dough, mixing r.ηrith vrater, to make

more layers ofdough.Take ι4 pounds offresh goat cheese, put

it ßη water and make it soft, changing the \Λ/ater at least thlee

times. Then, squeeze ßt, put ßt ßη α mortaτ and through α sieve,

and then mix lt rηrith four pounds of honey. Norv, take α clean

ραη 8 inches by 8 ßη [3ο cm by 3ο cm] and cover it lvith bay

leaves basτed ßη οß1. Οη top of this, place the large layer, exτend-

ing over the sides οf the ραη, and start to make the plakous. Put

dorηrn α layer of douglr, cover it rηrith the cream, then anothel

pastry layer and another of cream, continuing until γου linish αßΙ

the dough and α11 the cream, ending rvith α layer of dough οη

top. Then make sure αlΙ the filling is inside and c]ose it αlΙ ßη rviτh

the overhanging outside layer. Cook the plakous οη α fire urith α

chimney [α big terracotta vase similal to our country sτoves]

around rvhich γου can place coals, and even cover the chimney

lηrith them. Cook long and slorvly and check evely so often to

see if it is done.When it is done, splead lots of honey over it."

(Cato De αgτ. 76).

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour

enough ιΛ/ater to make dough (see Recipe 2, Kapyria)li9ht olive οßΙ

pinch of salt

5 layers of dough (made as directed or boughtready-made)

ºr2 cups (3οο 9) ricotta3/c cup (2ΟΟ g) honey

6-8 bay leaves

Note:You can save α lot of time by purchasing frozen puff pas-

try sheets, and indeed your results may be lather betteι For those

vrho rηrish to make their οιητη dough, first mix together rΛ/ater

and flour, and τhεη divide it into frve parts, roiling ουt the doughvery τhßη, αbουτ half as τhßòΚ as pie dough. Νεχτ, leτ ßτ dry, andonce dry brush rηrith οßΙ and put ßη the oven to dry again.

Μßχ the ricotta and honey. Cover the bottom of α bakingdish rηrith bay leaves greased rηrith olive οßΙ and place α large layer

of dough, covering the ραη and overlapping the sides, οη topof τhe leaves. Then ταΚε one of τhe iayers of dough, òυτ το fiτthe ραη, and place ßτ οη τορ of the overlapping layer. Whατ-ever dough γου chose, cover it vrith α layer ofricotta and honeyand continue alternating α layer of dough and then α layer ofricotta/honey until the filling and the pasay are αΙΙ used υρ.

Finaliy, ρυlΙ τhε edges ofthe bottom layer over the entire dessert,

οßΙ ßτ and bake ßτ ατ 3Ζ5Ο F (ι65Ο C) for Ζο-3ο minuτes, check-ing for αη eyen brorηrnness. When it is golden brorηrn, take it outof the oven and bath ßη abundantly ßη honey.

Recipe 56

ΤΑGΕΝΙΤΕS"FΙooding these fried αttanitai ßη honey" f"aitanon" means fryingραη ßη lonic dialect] (PLG α.Ζ.α7α),

Ιη fact, Athenaeus descτibes this desse't as α "p,lakous" fried ßη οßΙand called "taynvia" (Athenaeus I4.646e).They ατε mentioned byMagnes and also by the lηrriter of the second edition of Dionysus(Kock ι.7): "Have γου ever rηratched to see the hot pancakessteaming vrhen γου pour honey οη them?'' And Cratinus, ßη Thelaws, says: "And the hot pancakes ßη the morning thror,ιring ουtvapour" (Kock I.5Ζ,), From these excerpts ßη Athenaeus'S τeΧτ,\Λ/e See that tagenites \Δ/e.e eaten for breakfast. Tb have αη imme-dßατε leavening effect, curdled milk ηras added. Iη the days befoτepasteu'ization, and before mßικ came ßη steriιe contaιners, it \Λ/αSeasy to come by curdled milk.Today, this type of pancake is madeßη America iπith cottage cheese or ricotta.

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour1/ι cup (6ο ml) ιιvhite ιßιιßηe1/ι cup (6ο ml) curdled milk (add α teaspoon of

lemon juice to regular milk)Ι2 teaspoon salt

olive οßΙ to grease the ραηhoney for the ..dressing'' οη the cooked pancakessesame seeds

Μßχ first four ingτedients until smooth, and cook ßη smallamounts, foτming α circle οη α greased Ιτγßηg ραη, turning overrηrhen mixture bubbles, to brorηrn evenly οr] Ιotr, sides. Servehot, rηrith honey and α spτinkle of sesame seeds οη top.

ΑΜΡΗΙΡΗΟΝAmphiphon means "light α11 around" and rηre Κηοτητ that this vras

α dessert served with candles as αη offering to Artemis. Philo-chorus (FHG α.α93) tells us that the name of amphiphon arose

{τοm the fact τhat this dessert rηras carried to Artemis's temple οηthe seventeenth day of the month of Munichion (April) because

that is the day rηrhen the sky is tr-ιrice as bright as usual. Thisritual probably involved yarious types of desserts, but not oneof the recipes for them rvas given (Athenaeus ι4.64òα).

CHARISIOSAristophanes mentions charisios ßη his Men of Dinneπille (Kockτ.44Ζ): "Fοτ us anro Ι uril] bake α grace-cake fcharisios] to eat

τητhεη evening comes" (Athenaeus ια,6α6b).

cHoRιASr,ηreeτs made rηriτh miik and honey (Athenaeus ι4.646e). The

presence of honey makes it c]ear that this rηras α dessert.

DIAKONIONΑ τγρε of τhßη bread, like focaccia: it is identified ηο bεττετ τhαη

that. Pherecraτes refers to ßt (Kock ι.ι94). Kock thinks ßτ mighτbe α flat cake made by slaves or diakones, or α base foτ plakous thaτ

\Λ/αs not very good, So the author did not bother tο give αηγ

instructions for hοι,ητ to make ßt. This is based οη α quote fromPherecrates: "he began tο eat the dßαΙòοηßοη though he already hadαη amphiphon" (Aτhenaeus ια.6ααf).

DESSERΤ OF ZEUSThis rnras α dessert made by roasting together grain called leuke

(probably rvhiτe barley), chickpeas, cardamom, and small thinbreads first soaked ßη milk and honey, and then served τητßth α

saffron sauce (Athenaeus 14.643.b).

EcHιNoSLynceus of Samos speaks of this dessert ßη his Letter to Diagoτas

(Aτhenaeus τ4.647α), He states that this delicate pastry r.ιras madeßη Rhodes and that his friend explained horηr it rηras made.Unfortunatelμ the recipe r.ιras not given.

ELAPHoSThis rηras α dessert ßη the shape of α deer made for the festivalof τhε Elaphebolia (Aτhenaeus ι4.646ε).Iτ rηras made fromsρεΙτ (today we rηrould substitute durum flour), honeχ andsesame seeds.

EMPEPτASSeleucus (Athenaeus Ia.6a5d) defines this as α pie made r.ιrithbaked cheeses, more or less similar to the French "νοΙ αυ vent''bυτ likely much harder and heavier, more like the breadbaskeτsmade into borvls today.

ENKRIDESThis is small, fτied dough covered ßη honey. So says Aeschylus.Enkrides are also mentioned by Stesichorus (PlG 3.zo6;Athenaeusl4.645e); by Epicharmus; ßη Hand,to-Mouth Toilers by Nicophon(Kock ι.779);by Arisιophanes ßη Danaids (Kock ι.45Ζ); and byPherecrates ßη his Good-for,Nothings (Kock I. I68).

EPΙCHYTONNicophon mentioned epichyton ßη α list of dessert breads andfocaccias ßη his Hand-to-Mouth Toilers (Kock ι.778; Athenaeusι4.6a5b-c).Iτ appears το be fried dough, rηrhich Pamphilus saysιvere also called attanitai. (See Recipe òΖ.)

EPIDAIτRoNThis τηταs α pastry made from barley flour, served after dinner, as

explained by Philemon ßη his Οη AtticWords (Athenaeus 14.646b).

EPΙKYKLIOSThese rηrere Syracusan s\Λ/eets and from the name as translated itis α type of doughnut. Epichaτmus cites them ßη his Earth and Sea

(Kaibel qò; Aτhenaeus ι4.ο4òε-f).

GLYKιNASΙη Seleucus's Glossarμ this dessert is said ßο have been made ßηCrete, fτοm grape sylup and olive οßß (Athenaeus ι4.645d).Although flour rηras not mentioned, ßß must have been part ofthe recipe.

GoURoSSolon says thaι this is α lentil-based dessert, as referenced ßηhis lambicVerses (PLG Ζ.58; Diehl ι.38;Aτhenaeus ι4,64òf). Iτ isuncleaτ rηrhether this recipe used flουτ and lenιils, or flourmade from lenιils, similaτ to bean-flour desserts currently madeßη japan.

ΙτRΙοΝThis rvas α soft cookie made rηrith sesame and honey as men-tioned byAnacreon (PLG Ζ6ο; Athenaeus 4.6α6d); by Sophoclesßη Eris (ΤτGF ι7α) and by Aristophanes ßη his The Acharnians

( ιο9Ζ, ).

KREιoNThis ιηταs α type of flat bread that α nevrlyvred gave to her hus-band as α gift. It rηras cooked οη α brazier and covered ßη honey,and it rnras also served to the friends of the ner.ιrlylveds. So states

Philitas ßη his lrregulari4/ords (Kuchenmýlter, frag. 37; AthenaeusIa.6a5d),

KRIBANAIThese seem to be different than the kribanites that are mentionedßη the chapter οη breads. Sosibius, ßη the third chapter of Οη

Acman, says thaι they ατε shaped like breasts and that the Spartans

served them at dinners for rηromen, rηrhen the young girls rπrere

preparing to sing α hymn of praise ßη honor of α bride(Athenaeus ι4.646α).

ΚRΙΜΝΙΤΕSThis alludes to α dessert that r,ηras made rηrith unrefined barleyflour (called krimnon ßη Greek) (Athenaeus 4.646α).

ΚRοτΕτΑProbably this τηταs α crunchy dessert, at least accoτding to the

ΙtαΙßαη editor Rocci. The name supports τhis guess. The 1ßτεταΙ

translaτion of τhe phrase is: "kroteta, liberally soaked ßη τhßòΚ

sauce [honey] from the humming-uringed bee" (Athenaeus

I4.64ob).

MYLLoIHeracleides of Syracuse recounts ßη Οη Institution that the last day

üf the feast of Thesmophoria ßη Syracuse, α dessert made ofsesame and honey rπras shaped like women's sexual organs; itcame ßο be known as mylloi ßη Sicily. This dessert rnras paradedaround ßη honor of the goddess (Athenaeus 4.647α).

NANoSThin bread made rnrith cheese and o1ive οß1. Given that the text

uses the r,ηrord artos, vrhich means bread, it is evidently α flour-based recipe; ßτ is probably the pτecursor of libum (Aτhenaeus

τ4.6α6ò).

ΝΑSτοS\Λ/e οηlγ knornr that this was α dessert rηrith α delicious filling(Athenaeus ι4,646ε).

NEELAτADemosthenes mentions this ßη his prayer to Ctesiphonus (De

Coι. Ζ6ο). Harpocrates says that they are made urith dough ofroughly crushed barley and honey, rηrhich is τhen cooked andcoyered ßη grapes and chickpeas (Athenaeus I4.645b). ThedOugh rn,as sιreιched τhßη.

PAISASmali desserts eaten αt Kos (Athenaeus 14.646f).

ΡSοτΗ ιΑThis is α significantly crumbly dessert. Iη his Good-for-Nothings,

Pherecrates says, "But ßη Hades γου vrill τeceive α good-for-noτhing and crumbs [psothio]" (Kock I.168;Aτhenaeus ι4.646c).(Ιη the r,ηrork of Pherecrates, money ßη the kingdom of the dead

rηras called α "good for nothing," and rηras \Λ/οτth t\η/ο crumbs.)

SESAMΙDESThese spherical svreets rπere made rηrith toasted sesame seeds andhoney, ßη the Pergamon region, these desserts are still madetoday (Athenaeus 14.646f ).

SESAMOΤUROPAGAThese srηreets \Λ/ere made i,ηrith sesame seeds and cheese friedßη olive οßΙ, covered vrith celery seeds (probably τοαsτεd)

(Athenaeus ι4.64c).It is believed the name of τhis dessert r,ηras

given by Philoxenus of Chythera, τητhο used complex yrords and

phrases made υρ of other rηrords, much like those ßη German, Herηras τeased by Antiphanes ßη his Third-Raτe Actors (Kock 2,,ιο2),

\Λ/hο praises him as αη ßηνεηtοτ of many special r,ryords ßη α

jumbled language.

SΤΑΙΤΙΤΑΙ

These rnrere crepes made with spelt seed flour and honey

(Athenaeus ια.6α6b). Epicharmus mentions them ßη The Marιiage

of Hebe (Kaibel ιοο). Α very liquid dough \Λ/αs τhßηΙγ spread

οη τhε frying ραη and rηrhen cooked, sprinkled οη top rvith

honey, sesame seeds, and fresh cheese, according to latτocles'

instructions.

SτRΕΡτοΙThe name leads us to believe that these rπrere doughnuts

(Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Demosthenes mentions them ßη his prayer

ßη honor of Cτesiphon ßη τhε ρΙαγ Οη the Crown (De Cor. Ζ6ο).

S\^/EEτS

Νοτ beττer identified. One of the Deipnosophists, υlρßαη, says

that he rηrould defrniιely eat "s\Λ/eets" that rnrere creamy οτ soft, ßηvrhich case, he rπrould ask for α mystilen (α piece of bread dough

baked ßη the shape of α spoon to serve as αη edible utensil for

eating liquids or semi-liquids. There is αη example of α mystilen

ßη τhε Museum of Cairo). The οηΙγ thing vre know about this

dessert is that many pine nuts rnrere mixed into it, and the nuts

rηrere called by ππο different names, ostrokis and kokkaios.

τυRΑΚιΝΑSThin bread made rηrith cheese, similar to dough suggested

by Cato. These rnrere served vrith honeyed milk (Athenaeus

ι4.643c).

Condiments, Flavorings,αηα )eas0ntngs

Antiphanes lists spices and flavorings that every ancient Greekcook should have οη hand: dried grapes (raisins), sαΙτ, silphium(α garlic-like bulb), cheese, thyme, sesame seeds, soda, myrrh,cumin, honeμ marjoram, dates, vinegar, olives, herbs for spicysauces, capers, egg, salted fish, rryatercτess, grape leaves, andcurdled milk,

CARA\^/AY SEEDSThis spice is easy to gro\Λ/ and if the seeds are dispersed, theplant inrill seed itself, Wild carar.ιray has smai]er seeds than τhεcultivated plant and also has α more pronounced flavor.

CORIAN DER (Coriandrum sativum)

Both the leaves and seeds of this plant are used, but one shouldbe ayraτe that each has α distinctive flavor. It is ηοt commonlyfound ßη ΙταΙγ but it is very popular ßη Asia and the Ameτicas.Fresh coτiander or cilantτo is sold ßη bunches, like paτsley, andthe leaves ΙοοΚ similaτ, bui paIsley and coτiander leaves have verydifferent flavors. It is vrell to beaτ ßη mind that α ceτtain pro-portion of the population has αη almost allergic reaction tocilanτro, sr.vearing that it tastes as bad as, οι \Λ/orse than, soap.The name "coriander" comes from the Greek koris, ιητhßòh meanscimex, αη insect, presuming α similarity betureen the odor of thebug and thατ of the green leaves of the plant. Coriander seeds,hornzever, are milder and seem not to pτovoke the same reactionas the leaves.

cUMιNCumin is α wel]-knorπn spice to both ancient and modernpeoples (Ρlßηγ Nat. Hist. ιο.16ι, Ζο. ι6ι).

GARUMMentioned frequently ßη Athenaeus (see z.67c), it rηras one ofthe ancient Greek seasonings that he most disdained. Αη equiv-alent sauce is still used rnrith excellent results ßη the cooking ofvarious Asian countries. This product, called nuoc-nam, is sold ßηmany Eastern specialty food stores ßη Europe and the Americas.

If not available, γου can make this universal sauce yourself: dry

and sαΙτ fish, τhεη take the resulting liquid and add olive οßΙ,

LovAGEThis is called ligusticum ßη almost αΙΙ the recipes from De re

coquinaria. It can be found ßη gardening and plant stores, and

can be gιο\Λ/η ßη windor.ηr boxes or other garden containers. The

leaves have αη agreeable flavor that falls somerηrhere between

celery and parsley. One could, therefore, substitute for lovage

rηrith α mixture of parsley and celery ßη recipes.

MARJoRAM (Aτhenaeus Ζ.68α)

ΜΙΝτ (Mentha pulegium)

MYRRH (Aτhenaeus Ζ.66α)

*oxYMEL, (ibid.)Evidently α combination of vinegar and honey

-oxYRHoDINoN" (ibid.)Probably rose-flavored "oxymel" (vinegar and honey)

SAFFLo\^/ERThis is "false saffron." It is sold

ßη Egypt and is often mistaken

throughout the Middle East andfor saffron by naive tourists. Ιt

has reddish pistils, and rηrhen added to α dish, gives the color,although not the flavor, of saffron. It lvas often used ßη antiq-uity as α dyesτuff,

SιLPH ΙυΜ

Silphlum is the most famous spice found ßη antiquity, α vrild

ρßαητ from Syria τhατ grerv ßη τhe steppes of Africa and τhατ dis-appeared around the time of Nero. Antiphanes, ßη his Unhappy

lovers (Kock 2.ι73), teases the Syrians rηrho seem to taik of nothing buτ cabbages and silphium: "I will not sail back to the place

from which \η/e \^Iere carried auray, for Ι τηταηt to say goodbye toall-horses, silphium, chariots, silphium sιalks, steeple-chasers,

silphium ]eaves, fevers, and silphium juice" (Athenaeus 3.Ioof).This makes the Syrians seem α bit fixatedl

τΗΥΜΕ (Thymus vulgaris)

VιNEGARWe find lists of various kinds of vinegar i,viιh descriptions oftheir benefits and defects. Greek rηrriters calied vinegar the "best

of τhε seasonings." The philosopher Chryslppus said τhατ τhε

best vinegars r,ηrere those from Egypt and Cnidus. Οη the oτherhand, Aristophanes preferred vinegar from Sphettus and he alsomentioned one from Cleonae, but given that there is a "Cleonae"

ßη Argos, Athos, and Phocis, rηre do ηοt Κηοτητ to \η/hich regionhe referred. The vinegar from Decelea r.ηras also mentioned,but ηοt favorably. Ιη fact, the comedian Alexis (Kock Ζ.4οο;Athenaeus z.67e) inrrote, "Afιer compelling me tο drain fourcups οf Decelean home-made vinegar [evidently meaning the

arηrful rηrine of this region], ηο\Λ/ γου drag me straight throughthe market."

Index

Aeschylus, Ι1, ΙΙ3Agatharchides of Cnidus, 26

Agrigentum,30Alexander the Great, 25-26Alexandria,39,60 61

Aexis, ΙΖ 18,Ζ1,27-Ζ8,70, 95, 109, ιΖ0

amia, 73

amiloi, Ι 03

ιmorbites, 1 0,Ι

Amphictyon, 29

ampλiphon, 1 Ι 2

Alacreon, Ι 14

mdra, 9

mglerfish, 99

Antidoτus, 40

Antiphanes, 3, 3 2, 68,

t06, ι ι6_18, ιΖ0Altony, Mark, 32

apanτhrakis,39

aplrrodisiacs, 49Apicius

οη appetizers, 49

De re coquinario, 35, 53,

ι ι9οι meats, 63,6+,70οη seafood, 86, 89, 9 Ι

οη Soups, 53, 56

appetizers, 44 52

apples,25-26Arcadia,20Archestratus of Gela

οη appetizels, 44, 46οη banquets, 6-7, 8

οη breads, 36

onseafood,6,71 7+,

79_88,9ι,93,97_10ιArchilochus, 33Arclrippus, 4Ζ

Aristophanes, 39, 45, 52,

53, 55, 69, 1 ι2-14, ιΖ0Aristotle,100art, 8-9A]temis,91, ΙΙ2artolaganon, 3 7

arugula, 49Athenaeus

οη appeιizels, 44-46,48,50,5Ζ

οη banquets, 8, 10,

ι ι_ι2, 14

οη breads, 3, 36-41The Deipnosopλisk, Ι-2, 35

οη desserts, Ι02-Ι7οη Hedupaιheia, 6

οη lemons, 106

οη meats, 60, 68-70οη sauces, 4Ζ-43οηseafood,7Ι Ι0Ιοη seasonings, Ι Ι9-20οη soups, 54-55οη wine, 29, 30

Athens,21-23,39,40ΑτταgßηυS, Ζ5

αttαηßtdß, 105, 1 13

Babyloιia, 2

baτley soup, 53, 54basyniai, Ι06-7bay leaves, Ζ4

boiled meaιs, 60-6 ι, 68, 70

boletus breads, 40brain pudding, 66-67brazier bread, 40

breads, 3, 6, 36 43

bream, 88, 97, Ι 00

brill,80bulgur,5l,54Byzantium, 20

Callias. Sεε DioclesCa]limedon, 1Ζ, 70

capers,96Caranus, Ι4 ΙΖcaraway seeds, 1 Ι8cardoons, 5 8

Carneius οf Megara, 1 3

Cato, 38, 45, 53, ι03,ι08 ι0,1ιΖ

Cebes of Cyzicus, Ι 3

chamber pots, 10-Ι Ι

charisios, Ι 1 2

cheese, 3, 69, 8+, 90, 94,104, 108_10

chicken, 66-6ΖChina, 93

chippura,9Zchoria, Ι Ι Ζ

Chrysippus, ΖΖ-Ζ3, 56, 120cicadas,52Cleitarchus,25Cleomenes, 28-29

Cleopaτra, 3 Ζ

cod, Ι0 Ι

CondimeDts, 42-43,1ι8 20

condτos,54coriander, 1 1 8

coronets,7cost of food, 26-28courtesans, 9 10

Cratinus, Ι Ι Ι

crepes, Ι Ι 7

Creτe,2ι, Ι00Cτοbγlιιs, 40

cubo bread, 4ΙCumin, 1 Ι 8

CuttiefiSh,89-90

Daphnus οf Ephesus, 7 Ι

Delos, 106

Demetrius οf Scepsis, 109Demosýenes, 116, ΙΙ7desserτs, Ι02-Ι7Diagoras, 40diakonion, Ι 1 2

Dicaearchus,23dice bread, 4ΙDioc]es, 24, Ι 00

Diocles ofCarystus,39Dionysos,7,13,28,29Dioxippus, 69Diphilus, 20, 59, Ι02dogfish, 82-83, 98-99dolmas,5l 5Ζ

doughnuτS, 1ι+,117

ecλinos, Ι Ι 3

ee],7Z-78,83Egypt, Ι08elapλos, 1 1 3

elops, Ι00empeptos, Ι Ι 3

εncλytoi, Ι08enkrides, 1 1 3

epatos, Ι00Ephesus,97Eplcharmus, 94, Ι 13,

11+, Ι17epichyιOn, Ι 1 3

epidoitron, Ι Ι4epikyklios, Ι Ι4Erasisτraτus,90

Euangelus, Ι4Eubulus, 69

Eιιpolis, Ι0

fennel, 46figleaves,5l 52

flshßη Golden Age, 6

Homel οη, 4-5recipes for, Ζ3 ΙOΙ

ßη regional food, 20

flsh heads, 93, 96flsh sauce, 43, 66, 1 Ι9flag fish, Ι 00

flavorings,1l8 20flowers, 7-8focaccia, 37, 40flied dough, 105-7, 1 13

Γried shrimp, 72

garlic, Ζ0

garum, 43, 64, 69, Ι 18

gΙΙιò, rf Ι /

Glaucus ofRhodes, 90gΙykinas, Ι 14

gοατS, 63

gobies, 74

Golden Age, 6 8

gonos, Ζ4

θouros, 1 Ι4gIains, 5

grape leaves, 5 Ι-5Ζ, 80grasshoppers, 52

greens, 57, 58

gynaecea, 8-9

Hadrian, 10

hake,101Harpocrates, Ι Ι 6

Hellenism, 25-26Heracleides, 4 1

Heracleides οf Syracuse, Ι Ι 5

Heτodotus, 28 29

Hipparchus, 70

Hippolochus the

Macedonian, Ι 7

Hlpponex, Ι05

Homer,_2-6,44honey, 50, 103

hyacinth bulbs, 48 50, 56

ι2ß

Iatrocles, ß 1 7

India, Ζ

ims, food at,77-Z8islkembe sλorbasi, 60

ßτιßOη, 1 Ι4

Japan, 93, 1 14

Jerusalem artichokes, 5 8

kapyria, 3 8

kitaros,80kottabos, 3 1-3 2

κτεßοη, 1 Ι 4kribanai, 1 1 5

krimnitεs, 1 15

kroι€ta, Ι Ι 5

Larensis, Ρ Livy, Ι

lebia, 100

lemons, 79, Ι06lentil soups, 13, 55, 56, 68

lentils, ßη desseτts, 1 14

Ieuke, 1 1 2

ligusticum, Ι Ι9,

lobsteτs,72lovage, 1 19

lukumathes,105

Lycurgus,23,24Llmceus, 17

Lynceus of Samos, 2Ι-22,40,113

mackerel, 100

Magnes, 111

mahallebi, Ι03mahi-mahi, 82-83male banqueιs, 9-1 1

Mardonius, 25

marjorm, Ι 19

Martial, 49

meat

Homer οη, ,3-6τeclpes for, 60 70

at weddings, Ι5

Megasthenes, Ζ

Menmder, Ζ0, Ζ6-Ζ7 , 108mßητ, 42, 62, 119

Mithaecus, 94mol]usks, 7 Ι

mullet, 9 Ι-92, 100

mustard, 50

mylloi, 1 15

myrrh, Ι Ι 9

mystilen, 1 1 7

nanos, 1 1 5

nastos, 1 Ι 6

nee]ata, Ι Ι 6

Nicander of Colophon, 54Nicophon, 1 1 3

Nicostratus,44

octopus, 101

olive οßΙ, 4olives, 45-46onions, 3,44ormges, 106

organ mεατS, 69-70ουΖο, 2 1

oxygarum, 43

oxymel, 1 19

oxyrhodlnon, 1 19

paisa, Ι Ι 6

Pamphilus, 1 13

pm bread,41pmcakes, 1Ι Ι

parasltes, 1 1-12Parmeniscus the Cynlc,

ι3parmesan cheese, 84, 94Paros, Ι09pallot fiSh, 87

pasta, 38

pecorino cheese, 84, 94pepper, 44peτfumes, 7-8, 13

Pherecrates, 68, 1 Ι2, 1 13,

ι16Philemon, 114

Philippides, Ι 0Ζ

Philiιas, 1 14

Philochorus, Ι Ι2Phi]onides, Ζ9

phllosophers' bmquets,1Ζ_13

Philoxenus of Cythera,

18_ι9, ιι6_17pig's feet, 68-69

Pinenuts, ΙΙ7pita bread, 39

Ρ]ακα, 2 Ι

pΙakous, Ι 09-Ι 0

ΡΙατο, 12

Plutarch (dimer guest), 13

Plutπch (hisτorim), 24, 30

polenta, 54Ιporgy, Ι00pork, 60-6 1, 64-70

ροτατοεs, 5 8

,ι22

psothia, Ι Ι 6

Ptolemy, 26

Ramses 1Υ 108

rays, 76, 84

regional foods, 20-25Rhodes, 20,40, 98, 99.

113

ricoττa cheese, 104, t08,1 09-1 0

Rocci, ß 15

rockfish, 100

Roman Empire, 35

Rome,57,69,98roses, Ζ, 66-67IΟSewater, 103

Roxane, 26

safflower, 6Ζ,119-20sαfΙτοη, 62, 1 19-20salad dressing, 59

salpa,101salty foods,44, Ι02sardines, 74, Ζ5

sauces, 42-43, 62, 82, 83

scabbard fish, 94scorpion fish, 86

Scyιhims, 28-29sea memones, 74sea urchins, Ζ4, 47

seafood,47, Ζ1 ΙOΙ

seasonings, 1 1 8-20Seleucus,113,114Semos, 106

sesamides, 1 16

sεsamoιuropago, 1 1 6-1 7

sharks, 99, 100

shrimp, 7Ζ

Sicily,46, Ι04silphium, 70, Ι20skates,76sole, 80, 99

Solon, 22, Ι 14

Sopater,13,70, Ι09Sophocles,1Ι, Ι14Sosibius, 1 1 5

Sosippus,59soups, 24, 53 58

Sparta, 23-Ζ4, Ζ8-29spelt, 5 Ι

Speusippus, 100

spices, 1 1 8-Ζ0squid, 95

stOßtßιαß, 1 1 7

starch,103

Stesichorus, Ι Ι 3

StIattis οf Phoenicia, Ι 3

Streptikos,41

stleptoi, 1 1 7

strudel, Ι09,10strufloli,106stuffed leaves, 5 1-52stu{fed squid, 95

sturgeon, 98, 100

suckling pig, 64-65sweets, Ι Ι 7

swordfish, 85

symposium, 29-33Syracuse,99,100Syria, ΙΖ0

taθeiites, 1 1 1

Tarantum, Ζ5

Thais, Ζ6

Thebes, Ζ5

Theophrastus, 3 1

thrion, 5 1-5 2

thyme, Ι20ιßsαηα, 53, 54ιoasts,30-3Ztongue, 69

tlocta,38triggerflSh,96-97Triphonus, 7

tuna,73,79,93turakinas, 1 1 Ζ

τυιbοτ, 80-8 1

Turkey, 5Ι, 54, 60, 97, Ι03ιunips, 50

Yarro, 1,49vegetables,5,53-59vinegar, 79, 120

vomiting, 1, 1Ι

ßυΙνα eiectitia, 70

wedding banquets, 14-1 7

wine, 3, Ζ8-33, 44women,8-10weaths, 7

Zeno, 55, 56

Zeus, 29, 1 12