5. ΣΠΕΛΕΟ ΕΓΧΕΙΡΙΔΙΟ Β ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΑΣ
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Transcript of 5. ΣΠΕΛΕΟ ΕΓΧΕΙΡΙΔΙΟ Β ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΑΣ
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2 , 2013 2014
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(semi-static rope).
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(!)
1891. . (TYPE A)
(TYPE B). .
o 1891 8.5 16
(mm). 9 12 (mm).
...
22 kN.
15 kN 8 3
.
0,3
(2 , 0,6 ) 100
.
1 (2
, 1 ) 5
100 .
...
18 kN.
15 kN 8 3
.
0,3
(2 , 0,6 ) 80
.
1 (2
, 1 ) 5
80
Life on a line 2 8
50 150 5%
100 5 (!)
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2m/s (
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30C
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EN 1891
1891 (This European standard defines the
requirements for static ropes ( kernmantel ).
:
A:
(
) . 10 16 mm / 100
kg.
B:
. 80 kg.
, 341.
(Static breaking strength) A: 22 kN
B: 18 kN
End loop (figure of eight knot):
A: 15 kN
B: 12 kN
(Rope Elongation) 150 kg A: 5%
B: 5%
(Impact Force) 0,6m, 0,3 A: 5 / 100 kg
B: 5 / 80 kg
Falls held 2m, 1 A: 5 / 100kg
B: 5 / 80kg
(Knotability) A: 1,2 D
B: 1,2 D
(Sheath Slippage) A: 30mm
B: 15mm www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_static.html
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HST: ( 5 microns)
HST-R: A4 (DIN 1.4401 / AISI 316)
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EC
Fischer Hilti
Spit
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Petzl
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Petzl
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( 12)
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2 70 2 80 2 4
70 80 . 70
. (. 1-2)
8.8 ! ( 3-4)
.1 .2 .3 .4
.
!
(minimum failure load/2)
The standard NF EN 208-98-1 for steel
The standard NF EN 25-100-0 for stainless steel
Mechanical characteristics Steel Grade A1, A2 ,A4
8.8 10.9 70 80
Min. tensile strength fuk (N/mm2) 800 1040 700 800
Min yield strength fyk (N/mm2) 640 940 450 600
Minimum failure load N for M8 29.200 38.100 25.620 29.200
Proof load 21.200 30.400 16.470
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(key lock)
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Kong
26 kN
: 12 kN
: 8 kN (!!!)
: 55 g
Kong
26 kN
: 10
kN
: 9 kN (!!!)
: 51 g
Petzl
24 kN
: 10 kN
: 7 kN (!!!)
: 75 g
Petzl
24
kN
: 10
kN
: 7 kN (!!!)
: 68 g
Petzl
Speedy
.
.
Kong
Maillon rapide
.
maillon rapide!
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15
(HMS)
.
Kong
22 kN
: 8 kN
: 7 kN (!!!)
: 86 g
Petzl
23
kN
: 7
kN
: 6 kN (!!!)
: 80 g
.
(, , )
(D)
Maillon rapide , . :
7mm!
Speedy
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. , ,
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( Raumer).
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: 15 kN
: 32 g
:
(vrillee)
: 15 kN
: 32 g
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coeur
: 25 kN (18kN)
: 40 g
:
.
Raumer
: 22 kN
: 70 g
:
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dyneema
: 16 kN , 11 kN
: 23 g
: Zircal (
)
: dyneema ()
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(Clown)
Petzl
: 10kN (12kN)
: 40 g
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2013.
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:
Caving Practice & Equipment, British Cave Research Association
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www.animatedknots.com
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2)
. .
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( , ).
:
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: 65-75%.
www.chockstone.org
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www.animatedknots.com
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3)
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: 60-70%.
www.outdoors.org
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: 60-70%.
www.animatedknots.com
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: 65-75%.
www.chockstone.org
-
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33
7)
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: 60%.
www.animatedknots.com
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: 75-95%, 80-100%.
www.animatedknots.com
-
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: 65-75%, 70-80%.
www.animatedknots.com
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. 55-65%.
www.animatedknots.com
-
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35
11)
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knotalotsailing.wordpress.com
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snowguide.gr
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Alpine caving techniques
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Vertical, . 4. Rigging
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, : http://greek-survival.blogspot.gr/2013/04/14.html, 11/11/13
-
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/
greek-survival.blogspot.gr,
-
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5.
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-
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, www.speleo.gr
-
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,
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-
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81
-
....
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, ...., 2003
B , ...., 2007
, . , . , , 2010
Alpine Caving Techniques: A Complete Guide to Safe and Efficient Caving, George Marbach, Bernard Tourte
(Author), Melanie Alspaugh, 2002
Caving Practice & Equipment, British Cave Research Association, 1995
Life on a line, 2 , Dave Merchant, 2007
anuel technique de l cole franaise de speleologie, EFS, 1996
Vertical, Alan Warild, Lion Graphics, 1988
, Fischer, 2013
(), Hilti, 2012
http://www.speleo.gr, 11/11/13
http://snowguide.gr, 14/11/13
http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_static.html, 11/11/13
http://www.spit.fr, 7/12/2013
http://www.petzl.com, 9/12/2013
http://www.kong.it, 3/11/2013
http://www.expe.fr, 3/11/2013
http://www.caveclimb.com/lifelines.htm, 14/11/13
http://greek-survival.blogspot.gr/2013/04/14.html, 11/11/13
http://www.animatedknots.com, 14/11/13
http://www.chockstone.org, 14/11/13
http://www.outdoors.org, 14/11/13
http://knotalotsailing.wordpress.com, 14/11/13
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-
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-
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84
-
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86
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82,5 57,6
80,8 56,2
() 75,2 51,2
72,4 47,4
() 70 23,3
70 18,5
69,4 11,6
, 69,3 10,9
61,5
2: ( , 100gr
TOY , )
-
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87
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100gr .
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. 36%
64% , .
,
0,9 2,5 gr /kg .
, , 1,5 4,0
gr/kg 15-22% .
.. ..
100 84
92-96 72
94 70
88 70
85 70
84 60
3: (..)
-
....
88
(52% / 48%) 101
(75% / 25%) 105
(68% / 32%) 118
(71% / 29%) 122
(35% / 65%) 137
4: H .
gr
gr gr / gr
30 0,7 0,02
11,1 0,2 0,02
17 0,3 0,02
(0,3
) 3,5 0,1 0,03
35 1 0,03
, 24,1 1 0,04
, 22,8 0,9 0,04
17,1 0,8 0,05
, 22,9 1,4 0,06
18,6 1,4 0,08
,
20,7 1,8 0,09
21,6 3 0,14
19,5 2,7 0,14
, 20,6 3,1 0,15
19,7 3,1 0,16
(
) 21,2 3,3 0,16
, 20,5 3,6 0,18
INAKA 5: ( 100 gr , )
40-
45% .
6-8gr,
5%
.
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72 -
63 -
60 -
56 -
46,9 -
40 -
31 -
24,8 -
16 -
8 -
1,8 -
gr
10 100
10 100
3,3 100
2,7 240
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-
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(A,D,E,K) 1, 2, 6, 12,
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28
170 64
140
105
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114
87
53 50
108 45
29 30
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45
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20 24
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8: C ( mg/100gr )
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2000-3000
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, , ,
0,1-0,2
11: , , .
60% ,
. , .
.
, ,
. (,
) ( ) . ,
1gr 2,7gr . ,
, ,
1,5 .
-
....
92
(
, , , ...)
, - ,
.
- - ( ,
).
.
, .
:
:
2,5 - 3
.
(
).
:
, ..
, , , ,
,
, .
(, , , ...)
3-4 ,
.
( 15gr)
.
.
,
.
() (, )
, .
, , 60-90min
, , ,
, ,
. ,
.
:
( ),
,
,
,
,
-
....
93
,
,
,
,
(, ...)
( :
, , ),
( :
, ), (
: ,
, ) C (
). , ,
.
, ,
. ,
, .
( )
, -
,
.
, .
, , , ..
90% (, ).
1 1.
,
.
,
. ,
.
,
.
:
,
( , , )
.
(), (),
, .
, (
), .... ( ).
, ,
, ,
-
....
94
. , ,
,
, : ..
, ,
,
, .
.
,
(, Mars,
),
,
.
.
.
.
( ).-
-.
, .
, ( ).
:
1. . PETER KONOPKA
2.BIOCHEMISTRY FOR CAVERS. ELISABETH M. ELLIS
3. . ,
. .
-
....
95
(bad air)
Garry K. Smith 1998,
. , . , ...., 2013
(Foul air) ,
( )
. , ,
.
, (Bad air),
.
, ,
(CO2) 0,5% / (O2)
18% . , 0,03% CO2
21% O2 . ,
, : , , ,
.
CO2 ,
,
. , - .
,
0,5% (5.000 ppm ' ). 10%
.
.
. CO2 ,
, .
, (
) .
Strang Mackenzie-Wood, (1990) ,
,
, , .
James
(1977) Halbert (1982) Gibbs
.
1. , 1, CO2
, ,
. CO2 10
12%, 0,15% 0,65%.
,
.
-
....
96
CO2 O2 (N2)
.
1 , 1% CO2.
1% CO2 20,8% O2. Halbert (1982), 1
CO2 CO2
. 1 ,
CO2 O2
.
2. 2 CO2
(, ).
CO2. N2 .
Halbert, (1982) Foul Air Type 2 O2,
CO2 . ,
CO2 O2 ( RQ),
0,7 1 ,
.. , . ,
RQ=0,7 O2 CO2.
3. , 3,
, O2
CO2. " 3"
.
O2
2. 3
.
3 1
2 .
James, (1977) CO2 .
)
)
)
) CO2
)
)
1 2.
) CO2,
.
CO2
CO2 1.57 1,38 O2,
, ,
. ,
. ,
.
.
CO2 ( ),
-
....
97
CO2
( ),
, () . (Smith. GK
1997a)
, , , ,
.
, CO2.
,
.
, ,
.
2 2+1 2+3, CO2
.
CO2 , ,
, 10 .
CO2 ( )
O2 2.
CO2, . Suicide
Hole Cave Crawney Pass N.S.W, 6
CO2 2 . CO2
.
CO2
Osborne, (1981), Pit
CO2 Gaden Cave - Wellington NSW . Osborne
. 1, Osborne
2.
, , . Pit
CO2,
0,4 . ,
. Osborne,
Pit CO2 1 2.
James & Dyson (1981) Bungonia, NSW , CO2
. . ......
CO2
. Drum Cave , ,
, ,
. -
CO2, , (
). CO2 .
, CO2
".
Grill Cave Bungonia.
(
), ,
-
....
98
. ,
, .
. (Smith GK, 1998).
. Jennings, et al. (1972) Bungonia
17,75 C. ,
, , ,
, . , ,
. , CO2
CO2.
, CO2
. O2
. ,
CO2 .
CO2
48 . (James Dyson , 1981)
,
. ( )
.
[ ()]
CO2
,
CO2.
0,5 1%,
, ,
. (Matherson, D., 1983)
1 2% CO2, ,
. , CO2 (P
CO2) 44 mm Hg.
pH
pH . , ,
,
. ,
,
. ,
. (
, 1990).
-
....
99
0,03% ,
0,5%
5 .
8 (
).
1,0%
,
, , , ,
, (jelly
legs).
2,0%
50 ,
.
2%
.
,
.
.
3,0%
100 , .
: , ,
5-10%
.
5%
. > 6%
.
10-15% , .
.
25-30%
. .
CO2
(Strang. J., and Mackenzie-Wood. P., 1990), (Laboratory Safety Manual, 1992) (Osha Regulated Hazardous
Substances, 1990), (Matherson, D., 1983).
2% CO2,
.
,
.
.
(1992), 0.5% CO2
(TLVTWA). , 8 , 5
, . 5% CO2
-
....
100
(IDLH).
30 .
. ,
, ,
. O2
CO2 . Hamilton-Smith,
(1972), , .....
(CO2) .
2
N2 CO2, CO2
,
. ( , 1992)
O2 % '
21-14%
,
.
14 10%
, .
. ,
.
10 6%
.
. ,
. ,
.
6%
. .
,
.
O2
;
, Field, (1992),
,
. Inergen CO2.
15% ' ,
. CO2
,
. CO2
, O2 .
,
-
....
101
3.1% CO2 15% O2 ( ),
, , .
4.3% CO2 12,4% O2, ,
,
. (Field, 1992).
CO2 O2.
,
O2 / 2 10% O2. 8%
CO2 ( ),
.
(AS 2685-1986, . 7) ,
18%. 1995 19,5
' , ( 2) 19.8kPa ...
, , ,
,
. (TWA).
, ,
. (AS 2865-1995, . 6-7).
2,
8 .
2,
, 2. , 2
, 2 .
2 2.000 17.67kPa (176,7 mbar)
2 17,5%.
CO2.
O 21%
0,03% CO2. 15% - 16,3%
4,5% CO2. 6
100 .
CO2 .
,
CO2 . CO2 ,
. ,
CO2.
(CO2 O2) ,
(alveoli).
, CO2 .
.
,
, .
CO2 . (Smith. G. K., 1993 &
1997b).
-
....
102
,
CO2 .
2 2+1 2+3.
(big)
21% -18%
> 19%
17,5%
,
17% -16,5%
.
17% -16,5%
, ,
, .
16,5% -16%
,
16% -15.5%
( )
16%
15% - whispery
.
15% O 2 ,
.
14,5% -
,
-
....
103
(Expired Air Resuscitation EAR).
10% ,
, . (Smith. G. K.
1997a).
CO2
O2. CO2
O2 .
(2 +1) & (2 +3) . CO2 O2, ,
CO2 ,
O2 .
CO2
, , , , !
,
( ).
!
,
. ,
,
. , :
, ".
AS 2865-1986, Australian Standard (1986), Safe working in a Confined Space, Published by Standards
Australia (Standards Association of Australia)., 42pp, ISBN 0-7262-9473-X.
AS 2865-1995, Australian Standard, Worksafe Australia National Standard (1995), Published by Standards Australia
(Standards Association of Australia), Safe working in a Confined Space, 48pp, ISBN 0-7262-9473-X.
Clinical Management of Poisoning & Drug Overdose, (1990) edited by Haddad, Lester M; Winchester,
James F., 2nd ed. Philadelphia: Saunders p. cm. Published in Pennsylvania. Clinical Features &
Consequences of Metabolic Acidosis. P.135-140, ISBN: 0721623425
Crawshaw, R. and Moleman, D., (1970) Experiments with cave atmospheres: The CO2 Problem. Published
in the Sydney Speleological Society. Journal, Vol. 14, No. 8, P. 177-185.
Field. Dr. G., (August 1992), The Physical Effects on Humans of Exposure to Gas Mixtures of Air and
Inergen, Report prepared on behalf of Unisearch Limited, Department of Respiratory Medicine - The
Prince of Wales Hospital, for Grinnell Asia Pacific Pty Ltd.
Friedman. R., (Nov. 1989), Principles of Fire Protection Chemistry, Printed by the National Fire Protection
Association USA. ISBN 0-87765-363-1.
Halbert. E.J. (1972),. Foul Air in Bungonia Caves, Published in Bungonia Caves, by the Sydney
Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No. 4, P. 144-146. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.
Halbert. E.J.M., (1982), Evaluation of Carbon Dioxide and oxygen data in atmospheres using the Gibbs
Triangle and Cave Air Index. Printed in Helictite, V.20 (2), P.60-68, Journal of Australasian Cave Research.
-
....
104
Hamilton-Smith. E., (1972) Bats of the Bungonia Caves, Published in Bungonia Caves, (1972) by the
Sydney Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No.4, P.151-156. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.
James. J. M., (1977), Carbon Dioxide in the Cave Atmosphere. Transcript of the British Cave Rescue
Association. V. 4, No.4, P. 417-429.
James. J., and Dyson, J., (1981), CO2 in Caves Published in Caving International Magazine (Cave Science
Topics) No. 13, October 1981 P. 54-59.
Jennings. J. N., James. J. M., Counsell. W. J., and Whaite. T.J. (1972) Geomorphology of Bungonia Caves and
Gorge, Published in "Bungonia Caves", (1972).by the Sydney Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No.4,
P.113-143. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.
Laboratory Safety Manual, (October 1992), Oxygen-deficient Atmosphere, Section 24, P.4-5. By the
Occupational Health & Safety Unit of the University of N.S.W, Australia. Published by CCH Australia Limited.
ISBN 1- 86264-439-X. Authors - R. Haski, G. Cardilini and W. Bartolo.,
Matherson, D., (1983) Article on Carbon Dioxide Hazards in the Encyclopaedia of Occupational Health
and Safety. (Third edition 1983), Published by the International Labour Organisation, CH-1211 Geneva 22,
Switzerland.,. P. 392-393 ISBN 92-2-103289-2
McGraw - Hill Encyclopedia of Science & Technology, (1982), fifth edition, Chemical Weathering P. 305.
ISBN 0-07-070280-1
Osborne. R.A., (1981), Toward an air quality standard for tourist caves: Studies of Carbon Dioxide enriched
atmospheres in Gaden - Coral Cave , Wellington Caves, N.S.W. Printed in Helictite, V. 19 (2), P. 48-56,
Journal of Australasian Cave Research.
Osha Regulated Hazardous Substances (1990). Occupational Safety and Health Administration U.S.
Department of Labor. ISBN 0-8155-1240-6.
Safe Handling of Compressed Gases, (1992). P.5, Sec. 3.5, Commonwealth Industrial Gases Ltd, Aus. ISBN
0-909327-09-2
Smith. G.K., (1993), Caves, Carbon Dioxide & you, Published in Australian Caver, No. 133, P. 20-23.
Journal of the Australian Speleological Federation Inc.
Smith. G.K., (1997a), Naked Flame Tests for CO2 in Limestone Caves & The Effect of CO2 and O2 on
Humans, published in the Australian Speleological Federation Inc. Proceedings of the 21st Biennial
Conference, P. 40-52.
Smith. G.K., (1997b), Caves, Carbon Dioxide & You.. published in the Australian Speleological Federation
Inc. Proceedings of the 21st Biennial Conference, P. 35-39. Updated from the original article publication in
1993.
Smith. G.K., (1998), Foul Air at Bungonia, published in Under Bungonia, P. 84 - 91, Life on Paper
Publishing, PO Box 115 Oak Flats, 2529. NSW Australia.
Strang. J. and Mackenzie-Wood. P., (1990). A Manual on Mines Rescue, Safety & Gas Detection. Printed
by CSM Press, School of Mines Colorado. P. 126-133
-
....
105
:
!
. , . , ....
1.
.
,
.
.
, ,
(C 20~ C 50). , (
) ,
( )
() :
(
& )
(!).
2.
( SRT ) '70.
( ) (. 3. PETZL AUTOFOREUSE )
.
. , ,
'90,
, ( )
.
.
(, , )
. ,
.
,
.
( ) '
, ( )
-
....
106
.
, ( ) :
1 8 (!) ,
.
3.
(.
1.)
.
,
,
.
1.
: )
)
)
)
( ~20 m
8). ,
.
4.
Dave Merchant Life On a Line [1]
,
-
(SRT),
.
1.
(
)
FF=0,5.
1.
SRT
5.4 kN ( 540 )
9.8 kN ( 980 ). ~10
kN (=1000=1 ).
(kN )
( )
75 gr SRT - 1.05
75 Kgr SRT - 0.9
75 Kgr SRT - 1.6
200 Kgr
3.0
( FF =0.5)
80 Kgr SRT 5.4
200 Kgr 9.8
1.
-
....
107
5. -
To 1997 () G
-001 Metal Anchors For Use in Concrete [2] . ,
,
. G -001 (
2003) (-, -
) , (
), K . ,
CE : )
G -001 ) ()
.
, (, , )
AG -001.
6.
(Annex C) G -001
(
)
( ), (
) ( ).
.
.
2.
V Annex C ETAG -001:
(. 2.) (Steel Failure)
.
(. 2.) (Edge Failure)
.
.
(. 2.) (Pry - out Failure)
( )
.
.
,,.
' , k ,
, .
( ).
, ( )
' ' '.
-
....
108
G -001
C 20- C 50
(. ) :
1) 10 MPa
( ) 400 Pa ( ). ,
, 10 MPa.
2)
. 2
' G -001, ,
.
7.
,
HILTI [3] SPIT [4] .
:
)
. , ,
.
) 8 mm (8), '
, '
.
) .
ST - R - M 8 LTI FIX - Z
- A 4-8 SPIT (. 1.) . .
LTI ST - R - M 8
HST R -98/0002 [5],
. ETAG -001, Annex C :
( ): 10.4 kN (1040)
s =25 cm
. ( , . .: s =15 cm
5 kN 500 )
(
) >60 mm , 8 x 95 & 8 x 115 ( 8 x 75 ).
SPIT FIX - Z - A4-M8
FIX - Z - A 4 -04/0010 [6],
. ETAG -001, Annex C :
( ): 7.53 kN (753)
s =25 cm
. ( , . .: s =15 cm
4.5 kN 450 )
(
) >60 mm , M 8x110 ( 8 x 70 & 8 x 90 ).
A 1. LTI ST - R
- M 8 SPIT FIX - Z - A 4- M 8
(9.8 kN ). 8
SPIT FIX - Z - A 4- M 10.
-
....
109
2. ,
,
: xpress - Anchor UPAT
( ) -00/0004 [7]
. Coeur Goujon PETZL [8]
795, G -001.
8. M ""
3.
()
.
:
: (3~4 cm)
( )
(. 1.). (10 MPa)
~4 kN (400) shock
80 Kgr (5.4 kN) (. 1)
SRT .(!)
:
( )
,
(2, CO2, ) .
,
: PETZL AUTOFOREUSE
.
( )
. Vertical Online [9] lan Warild
.
: LTI HKD - E, SPIT GRIP & PETZL LONGLIFE 3.
(~12 mm )
( 8 mm).
.
'
( )
-
....
110
9.
:
(. 7.)
(. 8 HILTI
8.45 mm 8 SPIT 9 mm )
.
.
.
( : )
.
( )
.
,
. , ,
-.
10.
[1]. Dave Merchant Life On a Line (2003), ( . Part-1: 5.Anchors & Belays Part-3:12.Rope Testing)
Internet: www.lifeonaline.com
[2]. European Organisation for Technical Approvals (EOTA), G -001: Metal Anchors For Use in
Concrete (2003) (. Annex C: Design Methods for Anchorages), Internet: www.eota.be
[3]. HILTI (Internet: www.hilti.gr)
[4]. SPIT (Internet: www.spit.fr)
[5]. Deutsches Institut fur Bautechnik (DIBt) -98/0002: LTI HST-R (2003)
[6]. Centre Scientifique et Technique du Batiment (CSTB) - -04/0010: SPIT FIX-Z-A4 (2004)
[7]. CSTB - -00/0004: U PAT EXA Express Anchor (2005), Internet: www.cstb.fr
[8]. PETZL (Internet: www.petzl.com)
[9]. lan Warild - Vertical Online (2001), ( . 2.Rigging Equipment), Internet: www.caves.com
-
....
111
Y ,
, ....
.
(
).
.
F 80 .
F.
( ),
. ( 0 .
).
(80)
(140/2 = 70).
.
F=54
80 .
120 spit.
/
&
10 1,99
20 1,97
30 1,93
40 1,87
50 1,81
60 1,73
70 1,64
80 1,53
90 1,41
100 1,29
110 1,15
120 1
130 0,84
140 0,68
150 0,52
160 0,35
170 0,17
180 0
-
....
112
. (,
180 ). F
80 .
F.
= 80 =140,
.
(80) (140/2
= 70).
.
=117
80 .
.
120.
-
....
113
, ....
.
( )
: (: ).
.
: Z-rig
. 1:1
.
!
. ,
. .
.
.
-
....
114
:
=> :
basic =>
=>
stop =>
: 3:1
-
....
115
(..)
.
( )
.
..
( )
:
:
W:
F:
.
i: (
: (
.
-
....
116
T1:
1i=T1o =T
F1= T1i+T1o = 2T
T2:
2i=T2o =T1o=T
F2= T2i+T2o = 2T
F2
T3:
3i=T3o =F1+T2o=3T
F3= T3i+T3o = 6T
T4:
4i=T4o =T3o=3T
F4= T4i+T4o = 6T
F4
T5=F3+T4o=9T
W=T5
W=9T
9:1 (: )