5. ΣΠΕΛΕΟ ΕΓΧΕΙΡΙΔΙΟ Β ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΑΣ

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ΣΠΕΛΕΟ ΕΓΧΕΙΡΙΔΙΟ Β ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟΛΟΓΙΑΣ

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    1. ......................................................................................................................... 7

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    2. ........................................................................................................... 29

    3. ....................................................................................................................... 37

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    4. ................................................................................................................................... 57

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    5. ..................................................................................................................... 71

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    (semi-static rope).

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    (!)

    1891. . (TYPE A)

    (TYPE B). .

    o 1891 8.5 16

    (mm). 9 12 (mm).

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    22 kN.

    15 kN 8 3

    .

    0,3

    (2 , 0,6 ) 100

    .

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    100 .

    ...

    18 kN.

    15 kN 8 3

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    0,3

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    .

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    80

    Life on a line 2 8

    50 150 5%

    100 5 (!)

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    EN 1891

    1891 (This European standard defines the

    requirements for static ropes ( kernmantel ).

    :

    A:

    (

    ) . 10 16 mm / 100

    kg.

    B:

    . 80 kg.

    , 341.

    (Static breaking strength) A: 22 kN

    B: 18 kN

    End loop (figure of eight knot):

    A: 15 kN

    B: 12 kN

    (Rope Elongation) 150 kg A: 5%

    B: 5%

    (Impact Force) 0,6m, 0,3 A: 5 / 100 kg

    B: 5 / 80 kg

    Falls held 2m, 1 A: 5 / 100kg

    B: 5 / 80kg

    (Knotability) A: 1,2 D

    B: 1,2 D

    (Sheath Slippage) A: 30mm

    B: 15mm www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_static.html

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    EC

    Fischer Hilti

    Spit

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    Petzl

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    Petzl

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    .1 .2 .3 .4

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    !

    (minimum failure load/2)

    The standard NF EN 208-98-1 for steel

    The standard NF EN 25-100-0 for stainless steel

    Mechanical characteristics Steel Grade A1, A2 ,A4

    8.8 10.9 70 80

    Min. tensile strength fuk (N/mm2) 800 1040 700 800

    Min yield strength fyk (N/mm2) 640 940 450 600

    Minimum failure load N for M8 29.200 38.100 25.620 29.200

    Proof load 21.200 30.400 16.470

  • ....

    14

    :

    ()

    :

    D ()

    (key lock)

    :

    :

    :

    . :

    Kong

    26 kN

    : 12 kN

    : 8 kN (!!!)

    : 55 g

    Kong

    26 kN

    : 10

    kN

    : 9 kN (!!!)

    : 51 g

    Petzl

    24 kN

    : 10 kN

    : 7 kN (!!!)

    : 75 g

    Petzl

    24

    kN

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    kN

    : 7 kN (!!!)

    : 68 g

    Petzl

    Speedy

    .

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    Kong

    Maillon rapide

    .

    maillon rapide!

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    15

    (HMS)

    .

    Kong

    22 kN

    : 8 kN

    : 7 kN (!!!)

    : 86 g

    Petzl

    23

    kN

    : 7

    kN

    : 6 kN (!!!)

    : 80 g

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    Speedy

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    : 15 kN

    : 32 g

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    : 15 kN

    : 32 g

    :

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    \

  • ....

    17

    coeur

    : 25 kN (18kN)

    : 40 g

    :

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    Raumer

    : 22 kN

    : 70 g

    :

    .

    .

  • ....

    18

    dyneema

    : 16 kN , 11 kN

    : 23 g

    : Zircal (

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    (Clown)

    Petzl

    : 10kN (12kN)

    : 40 g

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    2013.

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    Caving Practice & Equipment, British Cave Research Association

  • ....

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    www.chockstone.org

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  • ....

    31

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  • ....

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    www.chockstone.org

  • ....

    33

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    www.animatedknots.com

  • ....

    34

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    www.animatedknots.com

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    www.animatedknots.com

  • ....

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  • ....

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  • ....

    59

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  • ....

    70

    /

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  • ....

    71

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  • ....

    72

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  • ....

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  • ....

    79

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  • ....

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  • ....

    81

  • ....

    82

    , ...., 2003

    B , ...., 2007

    , . , . , , 2010

    Alpine Caving Techniques: A Complete Guide to Safe and Efficient Caving, George Marbach, Bernard Tourte

    (Author), Melanie Alspaugh, 2002

    Caving Practice & Equipment, British Cave Research Association, 1995

    Life on a line, 2 , Dave Merchant, 2007

    anuel technique de l cole franaise de speleologie, EFS, 1996

    Vertical, Alan Warild, Lion Graphics, 1988

    , Fischer, 2013

    (), Hilti, 2012

    http://www.speleo.gr, 11/11/13

    http://snowguide.gr, 14/11/13

    http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes_tests_static.html, 11/11/13

    http://www.spit.fr, 7/12/2013

    http://www.petzl.com, 9/12/2013

    http://www.kong.it, 3/11/2013

    http://www.expe.fr, 3/11/2013

    http://www.caveclimb.com/lifelines.htm, 14/11/13

    http://greek-survival.blogspot.gr/2013/04/14.html, 11/11/13

    http://www.animatedknots.com, 14/11/13

    http://www.chockstone.org, 14/11/13

    http://www.outdoors.org, 14/11/13

    http://knotalotsailing.wordpress.com, 14/11/13

    . ,

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  • ....

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    . , , ,

    , .

    , , .

    , .

    .

    ,

    (). ( ),

    .

    100-150gr.

    ( )

    40-50 go (

    ). 100-200gr

    , .

    300-400gr, 1/3

    2/3 .

    .

    2 3

    .

  • ....

    86

    . ,

    .

    (

    )

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

    -

    ,

    ()

    ,

    ,

    , ,

    ,

    ( )

    ,

    ,

    (),

    1:

    82,5 57,6

    80,8 56,2

    () 75,2 51,2

    72,4 47,4

    () 70 23,3

    70 18,5

    69,4 11,6

    , 69,3 10,9

    61,5

    2: ( , 100gr

    TOY , )

  • ....

    87

    .

    , .

    , ,

    .

    ( 5.000

    , ) .

    22 ,

    (10 ) 8 ,

    .

    :

    . , ,

    . ,

    , .

    , .

    ,

    (600-700gr), . ,

    , .

    .

    .

    .

    H

    100gr .

    ,

    .

    .

    .

    ..

    . 36%

    64% , .

    ,

    0,9 2,5 gr /kg .

    , , 1,5 4,0

    gr/kg 15-22% .

    .. ..

    100 84

    92-96 72

    94 70

    88 70

    85 70

    84 60

    3: (..)

  • ....

    88

    (52% / 48%) 101

    (75% / 25%) 105

    (68% / 32%) 118

    (71% / 29%) 122

    (35% / 65%) 137

    4: H .

    gr

    gr gr / gr

    30 0,7 0,02

    11,1 0,2 0,02

    17 0,3 0,02

    (0,3

    ) 3,5 0,1 0,03

    35 1 0,03

    , 24,1 1 0,04

    , 22,8 0,9 0,04

    17,1 0,8 0,05

    , 22,9 1,4 0,06

    18,6 1,4 0,08

    ,

    20,7 1,8 0,09

    21,6 3 0,14

    19,5 2,7 0,14

    , 20,6 3,1 0,15

    19,7 3,1 0,16

    (

    ) 21,2 3,3 0,16

    , 20,5 3,6 0,18

    INAKA 5: ( 100 gr , )

    40-

    45% .

    6-8gr,

    5%

    .

    .

    .

    .

    ( ).

  • ....

    89

    .

    . 40

    60 . -

    .

    () -

    D3,

    - . ,

    , .

    ,

    () .

    :

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    , .

    .

    ..

    6: .

    O gr

    75 -

    72 -

    63 -

    60 -

    56 -

    46,9 -

    40 -

    31 -

    24,8 -

    16 -

    8 -

    1,8 -

    gr

    10 100

    10 100

    3,3 100

    2,7 240

    :

    7: - ()

  • ....

    90

    ( 100GR )

    ,

    .

    . ,

    .

    (A,D,E,K) 1, 2, 6, 12,

    , , , , C).

    C

    177 ,

    51

    28

    170 64

    140

    105

    ,

    114

    87

    53 50

    108 45

    29 30

    ,

    70

    45

    ,

    104

    87

    20 24

    17 ,

    20

    16

    8: C ( mg/100gr )

    (, , ..)

    , -

    ( , , , ..)

    9:

    .

    ,

    .

    100mg, 100mg.

    : , , ,

    , , .

    . ,

  • ....

    91

    , , , , .

    mg

    - .. 2000-3000

    3000-5000

    2000-3000

    , , , , ,

    ..

    700-1200

    , ,

    , ,

    700-1200

    , , , , ,

    220-300

    , , .. 100

    10: ,

    mgr

    , , , ,

    , , 10-20

    , ,

    , , ,

    (, ,

    )

    10 ()

    18 ()

    , , 3-4

    , , , 2-5

    , , ,

    0,15-0,20

    , , , 1,0

    , ,

    , , ,

    , , ,

    0,1-0,2

    11: , , .

    60% ,

    . , .

    .

    , ,

    . (,

    ) ( ) . ,

    1gr 2,7gr . ,

    , ,

    1,5 .

  • ....

    92

    (

    , , , ...)

    , - ,

    .

    - - ( ,

    ).

    .

    , .

    :

    :

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    .

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    ).

    :

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    , , , ,

    ,

    , .

    (, , , ...)

    3-4 ,

    .

    ( 15gr)

    .

    .

    ,

    .

    () (, )

    , .

    , , 60-90min

    , , ,

    , ,

    . ,

    .

    :

    ( ),

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

  • ....

    93

    ,

    ,

    ,

    ,

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    ( :

    , , ),

    ( :

    , ), (

    : ,

    , ) C (

    ). , ,

    .

    , ,

    . ,

    , .

    ( )

    , -

    ,

    .

    , .

    , , , ..

    90% (, ).

    1 1.

    ,

    .

    ,

    . ,

    .

    ,

    .

    :

    ,

    ( , , )

    .

    (), (),

    , .

    , (

    ), .... ( ).

    , ,

    , ,

  • ....

    94

    . , ,

    ,

    , : ..

    , ,

    ,

    , .

    .

    ,

    (, Mars,

    ),

    ,

    .

    .

    .

    .

    ( ).-

    -.

    , .

    , ( ).

    :

    1. . PETER KONOPKA

    2.BIOCHEMISTRY FOR CAVERS. ELISABETH M. ELLIS

    3. . ,

    . .

  • ....

    95

    (bad air)

    Garry K. Smith 1998,

    . , . , ...., 2013

    (Foul air) ,

    ( )

    . , ,

    .

    , (Bad air),

    .

    , ,

    (CO2) 0,5% / (O2)

    18% . , 0,03% CO2

    21% O2 . ,

    , : , , ,

    .

    CO2 ,

    ,

    . , - .

    ,

    0,5% (5.000 ppm ' ). 10%

    .

    .

    . CO2 ,

    , .

    , (

    ) .

    Strang Mackenzie-Wood, (1990) ,

    ,

    , , .

    James

    (1977) Halbert (1982) Gibbs

    .

    1. , 1, CO2

    , ,

    . CO2 10

    12%, 0,15% 0,65%.

    ,

    .

  • ....

    96

    CO2 O2 (N2)

    .

    1 , 1% CO2.

    1% CO2 20,8% O2. Halbert (1982), 1

    CO2 CO2

    . 1 ,

    CO2 O2

    .

    2. 2 CO2

    (, ).

    CO2. N2 .

    Halbert, (1982) Foul Air Type 2 O2,

    CO2 . ,

    CO2 O2 ( RQ),

    0,7 1 ,

    .. , . ,

    RQ=0,7 O2 CO2.

    3. , 3,

    , O2

    CO2. " 3"

    .

    O2

    2. 3

    .

    3 1

    2 .

    James, (1977) CO2 .

    )

    )

    )

    ) CO2

    )

    )

    1 2.

    ) CO2,

    .

    CO2

    CO2 1.57 1,38 O2,

    , ,

    . ,

    . ,

    .

    .

    CO2 ( ),

  • ....

    97

    CO2

    ( ),

    , () . (Smith. GK

    1997a)

    , , , ,

    .

    , CO2.

    ,

    .

    , ,

    .

    2 2+1 2+3, CO2

    .

    CO2 , ,

    , 10 .

    CO2 ( )

    O2 2.

    CO2, . Suicide

    Hole Cave Crawney Pass N.S.W, 6

    CO2 2 . CO2

    .

    CO2

    Osborne, (1981), Pit

    CO2 Gaden Cave - Wellington NSW . Osborne

    . 1, Osborne

    2.

    , , . Pit

    CO2,

    0,4 . ,

    . Osborne,

    Pit CO2 1 2.

    James & Dyson (1981) Bungonia, NSW , CO2

    . . ......

    CO2

    . Drum Cave , ,

    , ,

    . -

    CO2, , (

    ). CO2 .

    , CO2

    ".

    Grill Cave Bungonia.

    (

    ), ,

  • ....

    98

    . ,

    , .

    . (Smith GK, 1998).

    . Jennings, et al. (1972) Bungonia

    17,75 C. ,

    , , ,

    , . , ,

    . , CO2

    CO2.

    , CO2

    . O2

    . ,

    CO2 .

    CO2

    48 . (James Dyson , 1981)

    ,

    . ( )

    .

    [ ()]

    CO2

    ,

    CO2.

    0,5 1%,

    , ,

    . (Matherson, D., 1983)

    1 2% CO2, ,

    . , CO2 (P

    CO2) 44 mm Hg.

    pH

    pH . , ,

    ,

    . ,

    ,

    . ,

    . (

    , 1990).

  • ....

    99

    0,03% ,

    0,5%

    5 .

    8 (

    ).

    1,0%

    ,

    , , , ,

    , (jelly

    legs).

    2,0%

    50 ,

    .

    2%

    .

    ,

    .

    .

    3,0%

    100 , .

    : , ,

    5-10%

    .

    5%

    . > 6%

    .

    10-15% , .

    .

    25-30%

    . .

    CO2

    (Strang. J., and Mackenzie-Wood. P., 1990), (Laboratory Safety Manual, 1992) (Osha Regulated Hazardous

    Substances, 1990), (Matherson, D., 1983).

    2% CO2,

    .

    ,

    .

    .

    (1992), 0.5% CO2

    (TLVTWA). , 8 , 5

    , . 5% CO2

  • ....

    100

    (IDLH).

    30 .

    . ,

    , ,

    . O2

    CO2 . Hamilton-Smith,

    (1972), , .....

    (CO2) .

    2

    N2 CO2, CO2

    ,

    . ( , 1992)

    O2 % '

    21-14%

    ,

    .

    14 10%

    , .

    . ,

    .

    10 6%

    .

    . ,

    . ,

    .

    6%

    . .

    ,

    .

    O2

    ;

    , Field, (1992),

    ,

    . Inergen CO2.

    15% ' ,

    . CO2

    ,

    . CO2

    , O2 .

    ,

  • ....

    101

    3.1% CO2 15% O2 ( ),

    , , .

    4.3% CO2 12,4% O2, ,

    ,

    . (Field, 1992).

    CO2 O2.

    ,

    O2 / 2 10% O2. 8%

    CO2 ( ),

    .

    (AS 2685-1986, . 7) ,

    18%. 1995 19,5

    ' , ( 2) 19.8kPa ...

    , , ,

    ,

    . (TWA).

    , ,

    . (AS 2865-1995, . 6-7).

    2,

    8 .

    2,

    , 2. , 2

    , 2 .

    2 2.000 17.67kPa (176,7 mbar)

    2 17,5%.

    CO2.

    O 21%

    0,03% CO2. 15% - 16,3%

    4,5% CO2. 6

    100 .

    CO2 .

    ,

    CO2 . CO2 ,

    . ,

    CO2.

    (CO2 O2) ,

    (alveoli).

    , CO2 .

    .

    ,

    , .

    CO2 . (Smith. G. K., 1993 &

    1997b).

  • ....

    102

    ,

    CO2 .

    2 2+1 2+3.

    (big)

    21% -18%

    > 19%

    17,5%

    ,

    17% -16,5%

    .

    17% -16,5%

    , ,

    , .

    16,5% -16%

    ,

    16% -15.5%

    ( )

    16%

    15% - whispery

    .

    15% O 2 ,

    .

    14,5% -

    ,

  • ....

    103

    (Expired Air Resuscitation EAR).

    10% ,

    , . (Smith. G. K.

    1997a).

    CO2

    O2. CO2

    O2 .

    (2 +1) & (2 +3) . CO2 O2, ,

    CO2 ,

    O2 .

    CO2

    , , , , !

    ,

    ( ).

    !

    ,

    . ,

    ,

    . , :

    , ".

    AS 2865-1986, Australian Standard (1986), Safe working in a Confined Space, Published by Standards

    Australia (Standards Association of Australia)., 42pp, ISBN 0-7262-9473-X.

    AS 2865-1995, Australian Standard, Worksafe Australia National Standard (1995), Published by Standards Australia

    (Standards Association of Australia), Safe working in a Confined Space, 48pp, ISBN 0-7262-9473-X.

    Clinical Management of Poisoning & Drug Overdose, (1990) edited by Haddad, Lester M; Winchester,

    James F., 2nd ed. Philadelphia: Saunders p. cm. Published in Pennsylvania. Clinical Features &

    Consequences of Metabolic Acidosis. P.135-140, ISBN: 0721623425

    Crawshaw, R. and Moleman, D., (1970) Experiments with cave atmospheres: The CO2 Problem. Published

    in the Sydney Speleological Society. Journal, Vol. 14, No. 8, P. 177-185.

    Field. Dr. G., (August 1992), The Physical Effects on Humans of Exposure to Gas Mixtures of Air and

    Inergen, Report prepared on behalf of Unisearch Limited, Department of Respiratory Medicine - The

    Prince of Wales Hospital, for Grinnell Asia Pacific Pty Ltd.

    Friedman. R., (Nov. 1989), Principles of Fire Protection Chemistry, Printed by the National Fire Protection

    Association USA. ISBN 0-87765-363-1.

    Halbert. E.J. (1972),. Foul Air in Bungonia Caves, Published in Bungonia Caves, by the Sydney

    Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No. 4, P. 144-146. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.

    Halbert. E.J.M., (1982), Evaluation of Carbon Dioxide and oxygen data in atmospheres using the Gibbs

    Triangle and Cave Air Index. Printed in Helictite, V.20 (2), P.60-68, Journal of Australasian Cave Research.

  • ....

    104

    Hamilton-Smith. E., (1972) Bats of the Bungonia Caves, Published in Bungonia Caves, (1972) by the

    Sydney Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No.4, P.151-156. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.

    James. J. M., (1977), Carbon Dioxide in the Cave Atmosphere. Transcript of the British Cave Rescue

    Association. V. 4, No.4, P. 417-429.

    James. J., and Dyson, J., (1981), CO2 in Caves Published in Caving International Magazine (Cave Science

    Topics) No. 13, October 1981 P. 54-59.

    Jennings. J. N., James. J. M., Counsell. W. J., and Whaite. T.J. (1972) Geomorphology of Bungonia Caves and

    Gorge, Published in "Bungonia Caves", (1972).by the Sydney Speleological Society. Occasional Paper No.4,

    P.113-143. ISBN 0-9599608-0-5.

    Laboratory Safety Manual, (October 1992), Oxygen-deficient Atmosphere, Section 24, P.4-5. By the

    Occupational Health & Safety Unit of the University of N.S.W, Australia. Published by CCH Australia Limited.

    ISBN 1- 86264-439-X. Authors - R. Haski, G. Cardilini and W. Bartolo.,

    Matherson, D., (1983) Article on Carbon Dioxide Hazards in the Encyclopaedia of Occupational Health

    and Safety. (Third edition 1983), Published by the International Labour Organisation, CH-1211 Geneva 22,

    Switzerland.,. P. 392-393 ISBN 92-2-103289-2

    McGraw - Hill Encyclopedia of Science & Technology, (1982), fifth edition, Chemical Weathering P. 305.

    ISBN 0-07-070280-1

    Osborne. R.A., (1981), Toward an air quality standard for tourist caves: Studies of Carbon Dioxide enriched

    atmospheres in Gaden - Coral Cave , Wellington Caves, N.S.W. Printed in Helictite, V. 19 (2), P. 48-56,

    Journal of Australasian Cave Research.

    Osha Regulated Hazardous Substances (1990). Occupational Safety and Health Administration U.S.

    Department of Labor. ISBN 0-8155-1240-6.

    Safe Handling of Compressed Gases, (1992). P.5, Sec. 3.5, Commonwealth Industrial Gases Ltd, Aus. ISBN

    0-909327-09-2

    Smith. G.K., (1993), Caves, Carbon Dioxide & you, Published in Australian Caver, No. 133, P. 20-23.

    Journal of the Australian Speleological Federation Inc.

    Smith. G.K., (1997a), Naked Flame Tests for CO2 in Limestone Caves & The Effect of CO2 and O2 on

    Humans, published in the Australian Speleological Federation Inc. Proceedings of the 21st Biennial

    Conference, P. 40-52.

    Smith. G.K., (1997b), Caves, Carbon Dioxide & You.. published in the Australian Speleological Federation

    Inc. Proceedings of the 21st Biennial Conference, P. 35-39. Updated from the original article publication in

    1993.

    Smith. G.K., (1998), Foul Air at Bungonia, published in Under Bungonia, P. 84 - 91, Life on Paper

    Publishing, PO Box 115 Oak Flats, 2529. NSW Australia.

    Strang. J. and Mackenzie-Wood. P., (1990). A Manual on Mines Rescue, Safety & Gas Detection. Printed

    by CSM Press, School of Mines Colorado. P. 126-133

  • ....

    105

    :

    !

    . , . , ....

    1.

    .

    ,

    .

    .

    , ,

    (C 20~ C 50). , (

    ) ,

    ( )

    () :

    (

    & )

    (!).

    2.

    ( SRT ) '70.

    ( ) (. 3. PETZL AUTOFOREUSE )

    .

    . , ,

    '90,

    , ( )

    .

    .

    (, , )

    . ,

    .

    ,

    .

    ( ) '

    , ( )

  • ....

    106

    .

    , ( ) :

    1 8 (!) ,

    .

    3.

    (.

    1.)

    .

    ,

    ,

    .

    1.

    : )

    )

    )

    )

    ( ~20 m

    8). ,

    .

    4.

    Dave Merchant Life On a Line [1]

    ,

    -

    (SRT),

    .

    1.

    (

    )

    FF=0,5.

    1.

    SRT

    5.4 kN ( 540 )

    9.8 kN ( 980 ). ~10

    kN (=1000=1 ).

    (kN )

    ( )

    75 gr SRT - 1.05

    75 Kgr SRT - 0.9

    75 Kgr SRT - 1.6

    200 Kgr

    3.0

    ( FF =0.5)

    80 Kgr SRT 5.4

    200 Kgr 9.8

    1.

  • ....

    107

    5. -

    To 1997 () G

    -001 Metal Anchors For Use in Concrete [2] . ,

    ,

    . G -001 (

    2003) (-, -

    ) , (

    ), K . ,

    CE : )

    G -001 ) ()

    .

    , (, , )

    AG -001.

    6.

    (Annex C) G -001

    (

    )

    ( ), (

    ) ( ).

    .

    .

    2.

    V Annex C ETAG -001:

    (. 2.) (Steel Failure)

    .

    (. 2.) (Edge Failure)

    .

    .

    (. 2.) (Pry - out Failure)

    ( )

    .

    .

    ,,.

    ' , k ,

    , .

    ( ).

    , ( )

    ' ' '.

  • ....

    108

    G -001

    C 20- C 50

    (. ) :

    1) 10 MPa

    ( ) 400 Pa ( ). ,

    , 10 MPa.

    2)

    . 2

    ' G -001, ,

    .

    7.

    ,

    HILTI [3] SPIT [4] .

    :

    )

    . , ,

    .

    ) 8 mm (8), '

    , '

    .

    ) .

    ST - R - M 8 LTI FIX - Z

    - A 4-8 SPIT (. 1.) . .

    LTI ST - R - M 8

    HST R -98/0002 [5],

    . ETAG -001, Annex C :

    ( ): 10.4 kN (1040)

    s =25 cm

    . ( , . .: s =15 cm

    5 kN 500 )

    (

    ) >60 mm , 8 x 95 & 8 x 115 ( 8 x 75 ).

    SPIT FIX - Z - A4-M8

    FIX - Z - A 4 -04/0010 [6],

    . ETAG -001, Annex C :

    ( ): 7.53 kN (753)

    s =25 cm

    . ( , . .: s =15 cm

    4.5 kN 450 )

    (

    ) >60 mm , M 8x110 ( 8 x 70 & 8 x 90 ).

    A 1. LTI ST - R

    - M 8 SPIT FIX - Z - A 4- M 8

    (9.8 kN ). 8

    SPIT FIX - Z - A 4- M 10.

  • ....

    109

    2. ,

    ,

    : xpress - Anchor UPAT

    ( ) -00/0004 [7]

    . Coeur Goujon PETZL [8]

    795, G -001.

    8. M ""

    3.

    ()

    .

    :

    : (3~4 cm)

    ( )

    (. 1.). (10 MPa)

    ~4 kN (400) shock

    80 Kgr (5.4 kN) (. 1)

    SRT .(!)

    :

    ( )

    ,

    (2, CO2, ) .

    ,

    : PETZL AUTOFOREUSE

    .

    ( )

    . Vertical Online [9] lan Warild

    .

    : LTI HKD - E, SPIT GRIP & PETZL LONGLIFE 3.

    (~12 mm )

    ( 8 mm).

    .

    '

    ( )

  • ....

    110

    9.

    :

    (. 7.)

    (. 8 HILTI

    8.45 mm 8 SPIT 9 mm )

    .

    .

    .

    ( : )

    .

    ( )

    .

    ,

    . , ,

    -.

    10.

    [1]. Dave Merchant Life On a Line (2003), ( . Part-1: 5.Anchors & Belays Part-3:12.Rope Testing)

    Internet: www.lifeonaline.com

    [2]. European Organisation for Technical Approvals (EOTA), G -001: Metal Anchors For Use in

    Concrete (2003) (. Annex C: Design Methods for Anchorages), Internet: www.eota.be

    [3]. HILTI (Internet: www.hilti.gr)

    [4]. SPIT (Internet: www.spit.fr)

    [5]. Deutsches Institut fur Bautechnik (DIBt) -98/0002: LTI HST-R (2003)

    [6]. Centre Scientifique et Technique du Batiment (CSTB) - -04/0010: SPIT FIX-Z-A4 (2004)

    [7]. CSTB - -00/0004: U PAT EXA Express Anchor (2005), Internet: www.cstb.fr

    [8]. PETZL (Internet: www.petzl.com)

    [9]. lan Warild - Vertical Online (2001), ( . 2.Rigging Equipment), Internet: www.caves.com

  • ....

    111

    Y ,

    , ....

    .

    (

    ).

    .

    F 80 .

    F.

    ( ),

    . ( 0 .

    ).

    (80)

    (140/2 = 70).

    .

    F=54

    80 .

    120 spit.

    /

    &

    10 1,99

    20 1,97

    30 1,93

    40 1,87

    50 1,81

    60 1,73

    70 1,64

    80 1,53

    90 1,41

    100 1,29

    110 1,15

    120 1

    130 0,84

    140 0,68

    150 0,52

    160 0,35

    170 0,17

    180 0

  • ....

    112

    . (,

    180 ). F

    80 .

    F.

    = 80 =140,

    .

    (80) (140/2

    = 70).

    .

    =117

    80 .

    .

    120.

  • ....

    113

    , ....

    .

    ( )

    : (: ).

    .

    : Z-rig

    . 1:1

    .

    !

    . ,

    . .

    .

    .

  • ....

    114

    :

    => :

    basic =>

    =>

    stop =>

    : 3:1

  • ....

    115

    (..)

    .

    ( )

    .

    ..

    ( )

    :

    :

    W:

    F:

    .

    i: (

    : (

    .

  • ....

    116

    T1:

    1i=T1o =T

    F1= T1i+T1o = 2T

    T2:

    2i=T2o =T1o=T

    F2= T2i+T2o = 2T

    F2

    T3:

    3i=T3o =F1+T2o=3T

    F3= T3i+T3o = 6T

    T4:

    4i=T4o =T3o=3T

    F4= T4i+T4o = 6T

    F4

    T5=F3+T4o=9T

    W=T5

    W=9T

    9:1 (: )