1. OCEAN WAVES Applied to surfing 2. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 2 3. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 3 4. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 4 DEEP WATER WAVE SHALLOW WATER WAVE 5. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 5 6. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 6 Velocity of Idealized Ocean Waves C= g 2 tanh(2 d ) C: celerity g: gravity acceleration d: depth of water : wavelength of wave Arising from Airy Wave Theory LIMITATIONS Uniform mean depth Inviscid Incompressible Irrotational 7. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 7 Breakers CONDITIONS: Deep water Shallow water Height of wave Wavelength 0.07 Height of wave Wavelength 0.8 8. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 8 HOW DO SURFERS DO IT?HOW DO SURFERS DO IT? 9. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 9 10. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 10 11. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 11 12. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 12 ROGUEROGUE WAVESWAVES 13. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 13 Nonlinear generation of rogue waves 1) Random background of small waves 2) Unstable wave sucks energy of other waves 3) Thus, grows into a rogue wave 4) Collapses shortly after 14. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 14 1 cubic meter = 1000 kg PLUNGING WAVEPLUNGING WAVE 15. Samuil Plamenov Petrov 15