Introduction of Arbutin - MOBELBIO€¦ · Alpha-Arbutin is enzymatically synthesized from...

Introduction of Arbutin

1. Overview

Arbutin is commercially used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetic industry. It works by competitive

inhibition of the enzyme, tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the synthesis of melanin.

Depending on the spatial structure of the glycosidic linkage between glucose and hydroquinone, arbutin

forms two epimers: α-arbutin and β-arbutin.

Product name CAS Number Molecular formula Molecular structure

Beta-Arbutin 497-76-7 C12H16O7

Alpha-Arbutin 84380-01-8 C12H16O7

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Hangzhou Mobel Biotechnology Co.,ltdAddress: 25 No.Bio-chemicals Technical Zoon,Yuhang District, Hangzhou city,Zhejiang P.R China

Hompage: www.mobelchem.com Email:[email protected]

2. Natural source and Industrial Process Method

Beta-Arbutin

Beta-Arbutin is often referred to as just Arbutin. It is can be naturally extracted from plants such as

bearberry and synthesized by chemical method. Synthesized Beta-Arbutin is currently one of the most

widely used hypopigmenting agents in cosmetics, while plant-derived drugs containing Beta-Arbutin

were initially used for the treatment of urinary tract infections, cystitis, kidney stones, and as diuretics in

the medical field.

Address: 25 No.Bio-chemicals Technical Zoon,Yuhang District, Hangzhou city,Zhejiang P.R China 310001Homepage: www.mobelbio.com Email: [email protected]

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Hangzhou Mobel Biotechnology Co.,ltd

Beta-Arbutin Flow chart

Alpha-Arbutin

Alpha-Arbutin is enzymatically synthesized from hydroquinone and saccharides through

transglycosylation reaction. Various carbohydrate-active enzymes such as α-amylase, α-glucosidase,


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transglucosidase, sucrose phosphorylase, and dextransucrase have been employed to synthesize Alpha-

Arbutin. It is one of the most advanced skin lightening ingredients on the market.

Alpha-Arbutin Flow chart


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3. Specification

Product name Specification

Beta-Arbutin 99.5% HPLC

Alpha-Arbutin 99.5% HPLC

Beta-Arbutin Specification

ANALYSIS SPECIFICATION

Assay ≥99.5%

Appearance White crystalline powder

Melting Point 199~201±0.5℃

PH(1%water solution) 5.0-7.0

Specific Optical Rotation -66±2°

Loss on drying ≤0.5%

Residue on ignition ≤0.5%

Hydrochinone ≤10ppm

Heavy metals ≤20ppm

Arsenic ≤2ppm

Total Plate Count ≤300cfu/g

Total Yeast Count ≤100cfu/g

Alpha-Arbutin Specification

ANALYSIS SPECIFICATION

Assay ≥99.5% HPLC

Appearance White crystalline powder

Hydroquinone Negative


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Melting Point 203-206（±1）℃

Specific Optical Rotation [a]20

D= + 174.0°- +186.0°

Infrared peak value 1514cm-1

; 1229 cm-1

; 1215 cm-1

; 1059 cm-1

; 1034 cm-1

Solubility Soluble in water, slightly soluble in ethanol

Clarity Solution should be clarify, none suspended matters

PH（1% water solution） 5.0-7.0

Loss on drying ≤0.5%

Residue on Ignition ≤0.5%

Heavy metals ≤10ppm

Lead ≤2ppm

Arsenic ≤2ppm

Mercury ≤1ppm

Total Plate Count ≤100cfu/g

Total Yeast & Mold ≤50cfu/g

E.Coli Negative

Salmonella Negative

Staphylococcus Negative

4. Arbutin Working Mechanism

Skin whitening

Arbutin exhibits potent melanin-inhibiting properties and confers whitening effects on the skin. Sun

damage and injury or inflammation to the skin from acne, eczema or psoriasis are the two main factors

that cause melanin production on the skin. Arbutin can reduce the accumulation of pigment by inhibiting

the production of melanin, which accumulates on the skin when tyrosine is oxidized. An enzyme called

tyrosinase is the catalytic for this reaction. Scientists found arbutin has shown inhibitory actions against

tyrosinase. When topically apply skincare products containing Arbutin, the inhabitation of tyrosinase

results in the decrease of melanin, thus, a whiter complexion.


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Hyperpigmentation in the epidermis is caused by excessive melanin synthesis due to UV irradiation,

wound or stress. Tyrosinase is one of the key enzymes involved in melanin synthesis. The enzyme

catalyses the first two steps in melanin synthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA and the

oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. Arbutin has an direct inhibitory function against tyrosinase, which

leads to the prevention of melanin formation and a whitening effect on the skin.

5. Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin

Recent research showed that Alpha-Arbutin has a 10-fold stronger inhibitory effect on the activity of

tyrosinase from human malignant melanoma cells than that of Beta-Arbutin. The α-glucosidic bond found

in Alpha-Arbutin offers higher stability than the β form found in the related Beta-Arbutin. Moreover,

Alpha-Arbutin hardly inhibited cell growth at 1 mmol/L, while Beta-Arbutin inhibit it significantly at the

same concentration. It is, therefore, considered that Alpha-Arbutin is an effective and safe ingredient for

cosmetics. Alpha arbutin is very expensive. That is the one downside.

Differences between Alpha-Arbutin V.S. Beta-Arbutin

Production Tyrosinase

inhibitory efficacy Stability Safety Price

Alpha-

Arbutin

enzymatically

synthesized 10 times stronger higher safer

More

expensive

Beta-Arbutin

Extracted; or

chemically

synthesized

weaker lower inhibit cell

growth cheaper


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Alpha-Arbutin Water Solubility

6. Feature of PLAMED Arbutin

1. Beta-Arbutin is produced by environment friendly new tech, annual productivity 100mts, table supply.

2. Loss on drying strictly controlled, less than 0.5%

3. Hydroquinone residue less than 10ppm, Hydroquinone is poisonous and is forbidden in cosmetics.

The residue control is very important.

7. Arbutin Application and Reference amount

Arbutin is used as a skin whitening agent, a sunscreen agent and an antioxidant in cosmetic formulations.

Arbutin soap, cream, serum and lotion are among the major lightening products you will found in the

market.

Product name Reference amount

Beta-Arbutin 1-7%

Alpha-Arbutin 0.2-5%


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Arbutin’s advantage over traditional skin-whitening products:

Arbutin can inhibit melanogenesis without causing melanocyte toxicity, unlike traditional depigmenting

agents such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid.

8. Note

1) Arbutin breaks down easily in acidic conditions, so the pH value of cosmetics containing Arbutin

should be greater than 6.0.

2) Please dissolve arbutin in 50℃ hot water before adding it to skin whitening products. (Arbutin is

soluble in hot water, methanol or alcohol. Arbutin is partially soluble in cold water. Arbutin is

insoluble in aether, chloroform or benzene.)

3) Antioxidants should be added to cosmetics containing Arbutin.

9. Storage

Please tightly sealed Arbutin in containers. Store it in a cool dry place and away from sunlight and

oxidizing agents.


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Packed in 25kg paper drum, 1kg aluminum foil package inside.


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Introduction of Arbutin - MOBELBIO€¦ · Alpha-Arbutin is enzymatically synthesized from...

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