Boix Index 2nd - Yahoolib.store.yahoo.net/lib/allured/perftechindex.pdf · Arcadi Boix Camps Index...
Transcript of Boix Index 2nd - Yahoolib.store.yahoo.net/lib/allured/perftechindex.pdf · Arcadi Boix Camps Index...
271
Index
Aα,α-Diethylpyridine (Verdima), 261–262Abril, 183Absolu de Rochas, 195Absolute of Jasmine (cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide), 40Acetal E (acetaldehyde phenyl ethyl-ethyl acetal), 45Acetal R (phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal), 45acetaldehyde (Elintaal), 14, 45acetals, 17Acetomarane, 23acetyl guaiacol (II), 106acetyl thujopsene, 27acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene (Trimofix), 28acid, food, lactone and carmelized family, 64α-Damascone thiomethyl ether, 69α-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],
15, 19, 41, 43, 81Adoxal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17Agarwood, 87agrestical family, 3, 4–5, 23–25, 50–52, 84–91, 147–154Agrumal, 17, 125Agrumen, 17Agrunitril (citronellyl nitrile), 37Agua Brava, 48Agua Fresca by Adolfo Dominguez, 95α-Hexyl-χ-butyrolactone, 68α-Ionol, 247α-Ionyl acetate, 247–248Aire de Loewe, 116, 239Aladinate (3-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate), 264alcohol NU (5-ethyl-2-nonanol), 128, 212aldehyde C.13, 5aldehyde family, 3, 5–6, 26, 59–60, 91–92, 155–157Aldehyde NU, 128Aldehyde XI (p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde), 119Algia, 76algoid and marine odors, 32Alkanyl acetate, 76
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alkoxypyrazines, 18, 44Alliage, 42, 59, 66, 72, 73, 117allo ocimenol (Muguol), 12allyl cyclohexyl propionate, 43allyl heptylate, 43allyl phenoxyacetate, 43allyl tiglate, 24Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline), 32alpha-cedrene epoxide (Andrane), 6, 27alpha-hexyl-gamma-butyrolactone, 41alpha-ionone, 16alpha-methylene citronellal (Bergamal), 24alpha-pinyl-isobutyraldehyde, 42alpha-sinensal, 11alpha-vetyvone, 30altol, 105alyl amyl glycolate, 126Amarige, 128Amazone, 17, 105, 128Amber core (o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2), 96amber ketal, 158, 159, 204–205amber products, 8–9, 27, 32–34Amber Xtreme, 160ambergris animal chemicals, 57–59, 102–103ambergris woody products, 53, 203–210Ambersage, 50Amboryl acetate, 54Ambraketal (14,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide), 33Ambraldehyde, 33Ambrarome (cistus-labdanum absolute), 9Ambretone (5-cyclohexadecenone), 102Ambrettolide (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 9, 10, 15Ambrettone, Velvione (cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one), 196Ambrinoloxyde (2-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline), 102Ambrocenide (4,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-
1,3-dioxole), 158, 174, 205–208Ambrogene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9Ambronate, 41Ambrophore, 9Ambrox (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8, 32Ambroxan (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 8Amerinal (dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde), 37
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
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α-Methylgeranyl nitrile (Citronile), 111Amor Amor, 213Amraketal (phantolid ketal + a methyl group), 94Amritsar, 34amyl tiglate, 24Anais-Anais, 128, 159, 202, 204Anapear (methyl octa-4,7-dienoate), 249–250Anatolil, 39, 67–68Andrane (alpha-cedrene epoxide), 6, 27Angel, 106, 128, 215
Fiorucci Angel, 252Angel Innocent, 197, 215, 252Angel Schlesser, 195angelic acid, 35α-n-Hexyl cyclopentanone, 68animal coiraceous, 211–212animal florals, 41–42, 104–105, 122, 212–213animal products, 3, 8–9, 32, 100animal-fecal-costus chemicals, 59Anise ether (p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether), 64anise family, 35, 65, 113, 227–228Anisimal, 35a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one, mainly [Neobutenone alpha],
255–257Applelide (α-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate), 248Aquaman by Rochas, 162, 190, 193Aramis, 34, 48, 105, 128Aramis Devin, 42, 59aranone-4, 52–53Arden, Elizabeth
Blue Grass, 68Forever Elizabeth, 195
argawood oils, 87Ariel Future, 121, 127Armani for Men, 112Armani Night for Her, 194Aromatic Elixir, 65Aromavert (Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate), 108aromel givco, 107Arpége by Lanvin, 2, 38, 212Arrova 16 (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58artemisia ketone (2,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one), 91
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Artemone (1-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene), 90, 91Assam, 190α-3,3-Trimethylcyclohane-1-methanol malonate (Applelide), 248Aurelione (Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one), 201Autumn, 71α-Valerolactone, 61α-Vetyvone, 169, 171–173Azarbre (diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one), 149Azuril, 221Azurone [7-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one], 251Azzaro, 27Azzaro pour homme, 14
BBaby Doll, 197, 202Bacdanol, 29Baldesarini by Hugo Boss, 217balsamic family, 3, 10–11, 35–37, 106, 213–216Balsapia, 85Basala, 182, 183Base E, 38Base EJM, 38Base XVIII E, 167Basilex (8-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo-{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene),
85, 149β-Coronal (2-Methyl-4[2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclo-hexenyl]-2-butenal), 60, 117β-Damascenone [4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one],
15, 16, 41, 43, 81, 231–232β-Damascone [1-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one],
15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232Beaux, Ernest, 81, 235Belambre [1,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}-
dioxane], 158, 209–210benzoate, 17benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone (Coumarone), 219–220benzyl cyanide, 39Benzyl dipropylketone (Morellone), 108Bergamal (alpha-methylene citronellal), 24Berryflor (Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate), 120–121beta phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacinthin), 45beta phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol or Pandanol), 45Bicyclohexanone P (p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone), 61
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Bicyclolactone [2-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane], 61Bielaya Rosa (White Rose), 239Bigaflor, 72Bigaradial, 11, 26blue ester, 150–151Blue Grass by Elizabeth Arden, 68BLV by Bulgari, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193boccovert, 123boccoxime, 123Böcksaüre, 212Bois d’Ambrete, 28Bois Doree, 34Boisambrene (formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal), 27Boisambrene Forte (formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal), 27Boisanol (Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol), 94Boisomiel, 7Boldo oil, 52Bornafix [3-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol], 164–165Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2 (sagetone V), 85boronia florals, 117Boss, Hugo–Baldesarini by, 217Bourgenal, 14Bourgeons de Cassis absolute, 46Bovolide, 64B-Oxoionyl isobutyrate, 109b-phenylethyl alcohol, 233β-Phenylethyl anthranylate, 239–240Brahmanol, 29bromarose (II), 119Brunke, Ernst Joaquim, 161, 168bucchu family, 252–255Bucchu oil, 46Buccoxime, 73Bulgari
BLV, 143, 162, 170, 175, 193Bulgari for Ladies, 99, 190, 239Bulgari for Men, 101, 114, 127, 228Bulgari Onmia, 193, 256, 257Cologne au the Vert, 89, 90
Bulgarian Rose, 36, 81Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herbane), 127Butenandt, Adolf, 211
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butyl pentenoate, 24butylic acid, 89butyrate, 16β-Vetyvone, 169
CC-13 aldehyde, 60C.8 aldehyde diethyl acetal, 75C.8 aldehyde dimethyl acetal, 75Cabochad by Gres, 2Cabotine, 128Calandre, 8, 17, 71, 74calarene epoxide, 27, 28Caleche by Hermès, 2Calone, 35, 43, 81camonile, 89Campal, 41Campholen nitrile (Cantryl), 110Campholenic aldehyde, 45, 76camphor agresticals, 88Candalum, 97–98Canthoxal, 35Cantryl (Campholen nitrile), 110Caprinal, 59caramel family, 34–35, 64, 105–106, 213–216carbavert (methyl 2-hexenoate), 89carbinols, 41Cariofilanol, 54Cariofilenol, 54cariofilenyl formate (Caryolan), 27carnation florals, 13–14, 117Carnotheme, 14Carven, Ma griffe by, 2Caryolan (cariofilenyl formate), 27caryophylene monoethyl alcohol, 27Cashmeran [6, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone], 42, 44Cashmeran “O,” 42, 44Cassione (Helioptropyl acetone), 72Cassis, 46, 64, 123–124, 252–255Cassis Thio Formate (3-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate), 254Cassisthiol, 253castoreum, 103
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Castorol, 32cedar woody chemicals, 53, 92Cedeillal, 25Cederleaf, 25Cedernone (Ceto-cedrene), 54Cedramber (cedryl methyl ether), 7, 27, 28cedrol, 92Cedroxyde (trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide), 7, 27cedryl methyl ether (Cedramber), 7, 27Celine Dion, 194Celine for Women, 194Centifolyl, 39Ceto-cedrene (Cedernone), 54Cetonal [2-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal], 247Cetotabac (2,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione), 36, 108–109, 217cetylia, 81chamomile/tea agresticals, 51–52, 89, 150–153Chance, 143, 144, 162, 193Chanel No 5, 2, 212, 235Chanel No 19, 33, 68, 128, 159, 204Charles, Jean, 81CHHC by Carolina Hererra, 162, 254Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera, 179, 193Chinchilol (1-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol), 86Chloe
Innocence by Chloe, 239Chloe, 27Chrysantal, 18, 19Chrysantheme, 90, 121Cialenga, 14Ciclanol Acetate (2-cyclohexylethyl acetate), 68cinnamalva ethyl safranate, 113cinnamic alcohol, 233cinnamic aldehyde, 113cinnamil nitrile, 11cis 4-hepten-2-ol, 44cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate (Liffarome), 44Cis-β-Santalol, 185cis-dihydro shiseol (Mayol), 117Cis-8-tetradecenal (Lemonenal Supra), 222–223cis-4-decenal, 26cis-4-heptenal, 5
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cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol [Mayol], 14cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Ozofleur), 157–158cis-jasmone, 13, 40cis-jasmone lactone, 13, 39, 40cis-9-undecenal, 155–157(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate [Paradisone], 242–245cis-7-decenal, 157cis-6-nonenol, 14–15, 43cis-3-cis-6-nonadienol, 122cis-3-hexenol, 125cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate (Hexenyl oxanate), 125cis-3-hexenyl allyl ether, 73–74cis-3-Hexenyl angelate, 263cis-3-hexenyl anthranilate, 39cis-3-Hexenyl cis-3-hexenoate, 74, 262Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate (Montaverdi), 260cis-3-hexenyl γ-butyrolactone (III), 115cis-3-hexenyl heptincarbonate, 19cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl butyrate, 74cis-3-Hexenyl 2-methyl pentenoate, 74cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether (Vivaldie), 261cis-3-Hexenyl methyl-2-pentenoate, 264–265cis-3-hexenyl salicylate, 38cis-3-Hexenyl tiglate, 74, 262–263cis-3-octenyl propionate (Pearlate), 264Cistulate, 53Cistus labdaniferus, 25cistus-labdanum absolute (Ambrarome), 9cis-2-pentenyl pentanolide (Absolute of Jasmine), 40cis-2-pinanol, 88cis-Verbenol, 51citral glycerylacetal, 37Citraldial, 26Citralva, 37citric family, 3, 11, 37, 63–64, 111, 221–224citric greens, 46–47citrile acetates, 4, 23Citrindol, 105citrodial, 5Citrofresh, 46Citroherbil, 37Citroneland, 88, 89
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
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citronellal, 24citronellic acid, 5, 24citronellic agresticals, 51, 88–89citronellol, 233citronellyl, 6citronellyl ethyl ether (Novorosan), 37citronellyl nitrile (Agrunitril), 37citronellyles, 42Citronile (α-Methylgeranyl nitrile), 111Citronitrile (phenyl methyl penten nitrile), 37citronnellyl lactate [Rosilial (Rhodia)], 241Citroxia, 63citrus florals, 229–230citrus fruity greens, 126Civettone (cycloheptadecen-9-one), 9, 10, 15CK Be, 197CK One, 115, 128, 183, 198Claritone (2,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one), 149–150Clarycet (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol), 84–85Coco Mademoiselle, 144, 161coiraceous castoreum family, 103–104coiraceous family, 37, 211–212Cologne au the Vert, de Bulgari, 89, 90, 128Cologne by Thierry Mugler, 170, 193Contradiction, 118Cool Water, 128Cool Water for Men, 92Coranol (4-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol), 26, 114, 228–229Corps Casis (8-mercapto-p-menthenone), 46Corps 53 (4-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate), 30Corps Maracuya (dibutyl sulfide), 19Corps popinal (4,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal), 118Corps Racine, 45Corps Rhubarbe (lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate), 18Corps Santal, 29Cortex Aldehyde (phenoxyacetic aldehyde), 17, 18, 44cortexal, 125Cosmone, 202–203Costacide, 211–212Costaulon (4-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone), 59Costia, 32Costus Acid N, 59
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Coty, L’Origan by, 2coumarin balsams, 35–36coumarin family, 219–221coumarin-tonka family, 61, 109–111Coumarone (benzofuran-2-yl methyl ketone), 219–220Coumolide, 61, 110Courreges 2020, 252Crabtree & Evelyn, 162Creed, 92Creed White, 193Cresol, 41Cristalle, 128Crypton (4-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone), 66Cuirencens, 45cuminic aldehyde, 113curzerenone, 107Cyclamber (13,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane), 54, 96cyclamen aldehyde, 14cyclemone A, 92Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate (1,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione), 58cyclododecyl ethyl ether, 6cyclododecyl methyl allyl ether, 6cyclododecyl methyl ether (Palisandin), 6, 27Cyclododecyl p-terbutyl ether, 53cyclogalbanate (II), 126, 255cycloheptadecen-9-one (Civettone), 9, 10, 15cyclohexadecanone (Isomuscone), 194Cyclohexadecanone or Musk CHD, 58cyclohexadecen-8-one (Globanone), 197–198Cyclohexadecen-7,8-one (Aurelione), 201cyclohexadecen-7-olide (Ambrettolide or Moschus), 9, 10, 15cyclohexadec-5-en-1-one (Ambrettone, Velvione), 196Cyclohexanone diethylacetal (Rhumacetal), 124Cyclohexene isopropylacetate (Cypronat), 107Cyclohexyl crotonate, 85Cyclohexyl salicylate, 66Cyclomethylene citronellol, 74–75Cyclomethylene citronellol (3--butanol), 117cyclomugual nitrile, 92Cyclonemal (Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal), 127Cyclopentacide (Cyclopentilideneacetic acid), 106cyclopentadecanolide (Exaltolide), 9–10, 15
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
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cyclopentadecanone (Exaltone), 9, 15cyclopentadecenolide (Habanolide), 101Cyclopentadecenone (Exaltonene), 101cyclopentenylacetic acid, 15Cyclopentilideneacetic acid (Cyclopentacide), 106Cyclopidene (methylcyclopentenyl acetate), 41Cyclorosane, 74Cyperius Scarious, 22Cypronat (Cyclohexene isopropylacetate), 107
Ddamascate, 116damascenia, 81Damascenone Cyclogeranate (Ethyl safranate), 152Damascenones, 15–16, 36, 81Damascones, 15–16, 36, 81, 231darjeeling, 108–109Dartanol, 182Datilat (1-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate), 121Davidoff
Davidoff, 217Good Life, 118
Dazzling Gold, 236DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone) [Neogall], 46–47Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan (Trisamber), 163decalinol acetate, 40Decatone (6-Isopropyl-2-decalone), 30Decenyl cyclopentanone, 69Dehydromenthofurolactone, 220–221Dehydrotonkalide (4-Ethylbuten-4-olide), 110Delphone (pentylcyclopentenone), 39, 40Deltanate (Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate), 152–153Deltia, 18Desoxide (2-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran), 23Dextro Nor Limbanol [(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-α-propyl
cyclohexane propanol], 93, 160–161dextro polysantol, 174dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4-enol-1
[Nirvanol], 174–175dextro-cetalox, 210Dianthox (Diantheme), 14, 117dibutyl sulfide (Corps Maracuya), 19
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diethyl dimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-one (Azarbre), 149dihydro alpha ionyl aldehyde (Amerinal), 37dihydroactinidolide, 57, 103dihydro-a-ionone, 188–190Dihydro-α-ionyl aldehyde, 57dihydro-alpha-vetivone, 173Dihydroambrettolide, 34Dihydroambrinol, 57dihydroambrinol (III), 103dihydrobenzoxepinone (watermelon ketone), 15, 81dihydro-β-ionone, 89, 99, 190–191Dihydrocampholene alcohol, 51Dihydrocarveol acetate, 65dihydrocuminic aldehyde (Perilla), 11dihydrocurzerenone, 107Dihydrocyclol (norbornanol), 88Dihydroeugenol, 65Dihydrofarnesal, 238Dihydrofloralate (methyl-thymyl-ether), 39Dihydrofloriffone TD (trans-β-damascone), 125, 232, 234dihydro-γ-ionone, 30dihydrojasmone, 13, 40dihydrolinalool oxide, 52dihydrolivescone, 11dihydromyrcenol, 12, 25, 38Dihydronootkatol, 225dihydronootkatone, 112dihydroterpenyl, 4Dimethyl benzylcarbinyl crotonate, 153dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone (DCHP) [Neogall], 46–47Dimethyl cyclormol [4,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-
2(03)6-dimethyl], 53dimethyl heptenal (Melonal), 15dimethyl octandiol (glycol de rose), 39, 116Dimethyl octenone, 63Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether [Juniparome], 91dimethylacetal of trans-2-nonynal, 19Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol (Trivertanol), 74dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Triplal), 17, 39dimethylheptanol (Dimetol), 12Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde (Nerenal), 65dimethylhydroxyfuranone (Furaneol), 34, 105
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
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dimethyloctadienylacetal (Elintaal), 14dimethyl-octandiol, 39Dimethyloctenone (2,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one), 113dimetol, 38Dimetol (dimethylheptanol), 12, 25Dimuscan [1-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)-
ethanone], 199Dior
Dior Chris 1947, 194Dior Dior, 15, 115Diorella, 15, 115, 128, 244Diorissimo, 13, 236Miss Dior, 2, 26Miss Dior Chérie, 215
Diwan, 190DKNY, 176, 223DKNY Be Delicious, 234DMA-Trans-2-Nonynal, 127docecadienal, 17dodecyl nitrile, 75dogwood, 34Doisy, Edward, 211Dolce & Gabanna, 225Dolce Vita, 92, 99, 182, 183, 190Dominal (5,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 60Dominguez, Adolfo–Agua Fresca by, 95Doremox (Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran), 119dorinia, 81Dossinia Givco, 120, 230dry leaf herbals, 52–53, 150–153Duende, 92Dune for Men, 114, 228Dupical, 14Dynamone (cistus-labdanum oils), 9Dynascone, 126, 255
Eearthy agresticals, 86–87earthy and fecal odors, 32Eau Cendree, 14Eau Fraîche de Leonard, 96Eau Sauvage, 3, 13, 108, 115, 128, 145, 163, 193, 243
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Eaux Fraîches, 15, 23, 26, 31, 47Ebanol (3-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol), 97, 182Eden, 95Effetal, 45(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one [Myrrhone],
191–192Egoiste, 182Egoïste Platinum, 1278-Acetoxy-3-methyl-9-methylene-tricyclo{5,2,1,0,2,6}-dec-3-ene (Basilex), 85, 1498-Camphrene carbinol, 288-mercapto-p-menthenone (Corps Casis), 468-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol [Huminol M], 868-nonenals, 4311-Oxahexadecanolide (Musk R-1), 10Elintaal (dimethyloctadienylacetal or acetaldehyde), 14, 45Elle by Yves Saint Laurent, 162Elysium, 182Emanol, 43Emporio Armani pour elle, 249Enrico Coveri, 183Epi Hedione (Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate),
108, 115epi methyl jasmonate (IV), 125Epitone, 28Escada Collection, 197Escada Magnetism, 197Escape for Men, 89, 92, 93, 182Essenza by Zegna, 175, 176, 190Estée Lauder, Pleasures by, 252Estivalia, 48etaspirene, 124Eternity for Men, 92Eternity for Women, 114ether greens, 45ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde (Floralozone), 15Ethyl Chrysanthemate, 25ethyl cis-4-octenoate, 43Ethyl citral, 111Ethyl citral nitrile (Lemonile), 111Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol (Tonkarol), 61ethyl decadieonate, 39ethyl dianthilis, 106, 116
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
285
ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Grisalva), 9, 32Ethyl ethyl, α-cyclogeraniate (Givescone), 121ethyl fenchol (Terrasol), 28, 86Ethyl isoamylacetal acetaldehyde, 51Ethyl laitone DA (4-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110Ethyl lanalool, 114, 228Ethyl levulinate, 73ethyl maltol, 35ethyl pentenoate, 24Ethyl phenoxyacetate, 120, 242Ethyl phenyl carbinol acetate, 70–71ethyl phenylpropionate, 210Ethyl Saffranate, 38Ethyl safranate (Damascenone Cyclogeranate), 152Ethyl 6-acetoxyhexanoate (Berryflor), 120–121Ethyl 2-methypentenoate (Manzanate), 126–127Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate (Irotyl), 120Ethyl 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-6-methylbenzoate, 98, 186ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate (Fruitaleur), 250ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate (Myrascone), 151ethyl vanillin, 60ethyl vanillin (I), 106ethyl-α-cyclogeraniate (Myrascone), 151Ethyl-β-cyclogeranate, 151ethylcyclopentenolone, 35Ethylene Brassylate, 10ethylethylcapronate (Yrotil), 30Ethyl-p-cresol, 69eucalyptus, 154Eugenol, 113Euphoria, 162Everlasting Flower, 24, 25Evernyl, 8, 57Exaltenone, 192exaltia, 113Exaltolide (cyclopentadecanolide), 9–10, 15Exaltone (cyclopentadecanone), 9, 15Exaltonene (Cyclopentadecenone), 101
FFabron, Frances, 258Façonnable, 92, 190
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Fahrenheit, 246Fambione (p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone), 15Fantesal, 76Farenal (trimethylundecylenic aldehyde), 17Farnesene, 108fecal and earthy odors, 32Felvinone, 28Femme by Rochas, 2Fendi for Men, 183Fenugreek, 64Fidji, 128Fidji by Laroche, 2, 10[15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-3,1’-[2]-
cyclohexen]-4-one (Woolfwood), 96, 169–170Filbertone G 1% in TEC- 5-Methyl-2-hepten-4-one, 248–249Fiorucci Angel, 252Firmaflore, 45firsantal, 176Firsantol [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol],
97, 175–176First Santos, 1285-cyclohexadecenone (Ambretone), 1025-ethyl-2-nonanol (alcohol NU), 128, 2125,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl acetate
(Sclarex), 1505-hexyl-2-methylpyridine (Orange pyridine), 223–2245,9-Dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (Dominal), 605,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal (geraldehyde), 88, 915,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane [Tobacarol], 945,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one (Pomarose), 234–235Fixambrene, 155Fixateur 404 (methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9Fixomusc, 9Fleur d’Epice, 38Fleuranil (3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile), 158Fleursandol (3-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol), 179–181floral family, 4, 12–14, 38–42, 66–72, 113, 114–122, 228–248floral fruits, 69–70, 122, 248floral greens, 17–18, 44, 125–126floral metallics, 41, 119floral muguets, 70–71floral super (4,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal), 88, 91
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
287
floral-animals, 70Floralate (2,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate), 112Floralozone (ethyl-alpha-dimethyl hydrocynamic aldehyde), 15floramat, 116Flore, 92Florex [3-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one], 35Florexaltric, 37Florhydral (p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal), 117–118Floridile (9,10-undecadien nitrile), 221–222Florizia, 18Florymoss, 242Flower by Kenzo, 193Folenox (isolongifolene epoxide), 28Folial, 18Folrosia, 67Forenat (Styrallyl crotonate), 108Forever Elizabeth from Elizabeth Arden, 195formaldehyde-ethylcyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene Forte), 27formaldehyde-methyl-cyclododecylacetal (Boisambrene), 27formate, 16, 41formyltricyclodecane (Vertral) (II), 75, 125Fougére Royal by Houbigant, 2, 34-cyclo octenyl acetate, 654-Cyclohexyl-2-Methyl-2-butenol (Coranol), 26, 114, 228–2294-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone (Vetysertone and Vetyval), 304-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate [Violiff (IFF)], 246–2474,8-dimethyl-4,9-decadienal (floral super), 88, 914-Ethylbuten-4-olide (Dehydrotonkalide), 1104-Ethyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Ethyl laitone DA), 1104-Ethyl-4-methyl A Valerolactone (Costaulon), 594-Ethyloctanoic acid (Nolinac), 59, 1044,5-Decamethylene oxazole (Sclarene), 854,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one (Sotolone), 214–2154,5,7,9-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9-hexamethylmethanoazulene-[5,6]-1,3-dioxole
(Ambrocenide), 158, 174, 205–2084-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene (junipal), 914,4-Methyl-3-cyclohexenyl pentenal (Corps popinal), 1184,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane [Reseda Body], 724-Hydroxy-5-methyl-3(2H)-furanone, 2134-isopropyl-2-cyclohexenone (Crypton), 664-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone (Methyl laitone), 1104-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol (Undecavertol), 127
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
288
4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol (Prismantol), 162–1634-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate (Frutinat), 434-Methyl-phenoxy ethanol, 684-Methyl-4-phenyl-2-pentanol acetate (Corps 53), 304-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one [Plicatone], 254-Methyl-2-dodecen nitrile, 2234-Oxo-β-ionone, 624-Oxo-β-ionyl acetate, 634-Pentenophenone (Lavonax), 1084,7-methano-14-inden-5-ol-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-2(03)6-dimethyl [Dimethyl
cyclormol], 5314,15-Bisnor Labdan,8-alpha,13,13,20-dioxide (Ambraketal), 334-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone (Orinox), 2134-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one (Precarone),
120, 2424-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one (Iritone), 1004-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadienyl)-3,buten-4-one [β-Damascenone],
15, 16, 41, 43, 231–2324-Vinyl guaiacol, 60Fragile, 236Frambinon Cryst, 15, 43Frambinon methylether (p-methoxyphenyl butanone), 15, 43frankincense, 107Frater, Georg, 165, 167Freedom by Tommy Hilfiger, 193Frescolat (1-Methyl lactate), 88Frescyle (3-methyldodecyl nitrile), 64fresh florals, 114–115, 228–229Freskomenthe (2-Secbutyl cyclohexanone), 88Fruitaleur (ethyl 2-methyl-3-pentenoate), 250fruity florals, 41, 120–121, 248, 249–251fruity greens, 19, 46, 126–127, 265–267fruity nutty, 248–249fruity products, 4, 14–15, 43, 73, 122Frutinat (4-Methyl-2-pentanol crotonate), 43Frutonile (2-Methyl decyl nitrile), 69furadien-6-one, 108furan ketones, 108Furaneol (dimethylhydroxyfuranone), 34, 105furans, 68, 107Furfuryl acetone, 66
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
289
GGalaxolide, 10Galbania, 47Galbaniff [1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone)],
257–258Galbanolene (1,3,5-undecatriene), 18, 75Galbanum, 255galbanum family, 255–259Galbex, 47Galbia, 18gamma-hepta, 11gamma-homocyclogeraniol, 32, 33gamma-undecapyridine, 45Gardamide (N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide), 126γ-Damascone [1-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one], 232Genistafol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45Genistafol (phenylethyl methyl ether), 68Gentleman by Givenchy, 32Georgywood (1,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone), 165–167Geosmin [2,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol], 32, 33geraldehyde (5,9-dimethyl-4,8-decadienal), 88, 91geranic acid, 5, 24Geranic oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano), 23geraniol, 233Geranodyle [1-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane], 240–241geranyl crotonate, 240geranyl nitrile, 5geranyl oxyacetaldehydes, 6geranyles, 42Gerlain, Vetiver by, 128γ-heptalactone, 109γ-hexalactone(I), 109Gio, 95, 183Givenchy
Into the Blue, 194Gentleman, 32Givenchy III, 26Insensé de Givenchy, 96Organza, 232So de Givenchy, 194Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen, 86
Givescone (Ethyl ethyl, α-cyclogeraniate), 121
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
290
Givmenthe (2-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone), 88Globanone (cyclohexadecen-8-one), 197–198Globe by Rochas, 99glycol de rose (dimethyl octandiol), 39, 116glycolate, 255Glycolierral (Maceol gylceryl acetal), 74Glycomel [Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl,
methyl ether], 64Good Life by Davidoff, 118, 236grapefruit citrics, 63, 112–113, 224–226grassy greens, 16–17, 44, 125green florals, 120, 242Green Mandarine, 37Greenal (2,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal), 88Greenness of Malaysia, 70Greenoxane, 45greens family, 4, 16–19, 44–47, 73–76, 125–128, 260–265green-violet florals, 245–248Gres, Cabochad by, 2Grisalva (ethyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan), 9, 32Grisambrene (cistus-labdanum oils), 9Grisambria (cistus-labdanum oils), 9, 32guaiacol, 106Guerlain
Jicky, 2Mitsouko, 2
HHabanita by Molinard, 2Habanolide (Cyclopentadecenolide), 101Halston, 66Hanae Mori for Ladies, 106Hederyl (2,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine), 126Hedione HC, paradisol, kharismal, cepionate, super cepionate(Epi Hedione), 108, 115Hedione (methyl-dihydrojasmonate), 13, 15, 39, 43, 233Helional, 15, 43Helioptropyl acetone (Cassione), 72heliotrope-mimosa-cassia florals, 71–72Helvetolide, 190Helvetolide [(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3-
oxapentyl propionate)], 102, 192–193
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
291
Herbac (1-Acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane), 91Herbacet No. 1 (1-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate), 24herbal florals, 12, 38, 66herbal fruity, 150–153herbal greens, 127–128herbal-honey-woody, 155herbal-lavendar-camphoraceous agresticals, 50–51herbal-lavender agresticals, 4, 24, 84–86, 147–149herbals, dry leaf, 52–53Herbanate, 85–86Herbane (Butanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 127Herbate, 53Herbavert (3,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 128Herboxane (Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal), 50, 127Hererra, Carolina
CHHC, 162Heridón, 23Heritage, 96, 117, 128Hermès, Caleche by, 2Herrera, Carolina
Chic for Men, 179Herrera for Men, 83, 92, 94, 100, 107, 128, 183
hexa hydrocoumarin, 10Hexadecanolide, 34Hexanal hexyleneglycolacetal (Cyclonemal), 127Hexenyl oxanate (Cis-3-hexenyl acetoacetate), 125Hexenyl Oxanate (IV), 125Hexyl crotonate, 74hexyl salicylate, 38hexyl tiglate, 262–263Hexylate, 51Hibiscolide (12-Oxahexadecanolide), 10Higher Energy, 195Hindinol, 183–185Histidal (2-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal), 87Homo ambrinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122homo cyclo geraniol, 9homocyclogeranyl chloride, 32, 33Homofuronol [2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone], 214Homomenthenal, 76honey, 107Horizon, 92
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
292
Houbigant, Fougére Royal by, 2Huminol M [8-Methyl-1,5-dimethylbicyclo-(3,2,1)-octan-8-ol], 86Hyacinth Body, 45Hyacinth Body no 3, 45Hyacinthia, 18hydratropic aldehyde, 17Hydrocitronitrile (3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile), 230Hydroxyambran (2-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol), 94–95, 158, 167–168hydroxycitronellal, 42
Iigoflor 2-(3-cyclo-2,1,0-decane) spirotetrahydrofuranel, 56Igolen, George, 221Incentsia, 45Indian Wood, 32Indianol, 174Indisan, 29Indonal, 41Innocence by Chloe, 239Insensé de Givenchy, 96Into the Blue by Givenchy, 194, 197Introspective, 85ionones, 233Iranal, 26Iritone (4-[2,4,6-Trimethyl-3-cyclohexenyl]-3-buten-2-one), 100Irival, 119–120Irivone, 186Irone V, 16irones, 15, 16, 44Ironyl Butyl-3,4-dimethyl-3-OH-5-[2,6,6-Trimethyl-2- cyclohexenyl]-4-
pentenoate), 99–100Irotyl (Ethyl 2-ethylhexanoate), 120Iso E Super (octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene), 7, 27, 233isoaceate, 147isoamylic acid, 89Isobornyl methyl ether, 50Isobutavan (Vanillyl isobutyrate), 106Isobutyl benzyl carbinol, 74isobutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44isobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18isobutyrate, 16isobutyrate of Verdyl, 41
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
293
Isocyclemone E, 27Isocyclocitral (trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17Isocyclogeraniol (Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol), 120Isodamascone [1-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one], 41, 235isodamasconel, 15Isofreshal Nitrate, 221isohexylmethoxypyrazine, 44–45isojasmone, 116isojasmone CNC, 116isolongifolanile acetate, 27isolongifolanone, 7, 27isolongifolanyl acetate, 7isolongifolene epoxide (Folenox), 28Isomint, 87, 150Isomuscone (cyclohexadecanone), 194Isononyl nitrile, 89Isopentyrate (1,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate), 24Isophorone (3,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one), 108Isophoryl acetate, 62Isopirene [2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro (4,5)-3,6 decadiene], 39, 64Isopropyl methyl thiazole, 125isopropyl safranate, 152isopropylmethoxypyrazine, 44Isospirene (2,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene), 124Isotagetone (2,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one), 73Issey Miyaki, 99, 128, 228
JJacinthaflor (1,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl), 212–213J’adore, 236Jascitile (3-Methyl octyl nitrile), 59Jasmambrette, 28, 31Jasmin Etoile Civco, 106jasmine florals, 13, 39–41, 68–69, 115–116, 242–245Jasminoflor (methyl n-acetyl antranilate), 68jasmo lactone, 13Jasmobois, 28Jasmolactone, 40jasmonyl, 114Jasmospezia, 40Javanol [methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol],
177–179
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
294
Jazz, 99Je reviens by Worth, 2Jean Louis Scherrer, 128Jean Marc Sinan, 121Jessate, 13Jicky by Guerlain, 2Joop, 220Joy by Jean Patou, 68, 105junipal (4-Formyl-7,7,9-trimethyl bicyclononene), 91Juniparome [Dimethyl tricyclo (5.2.1.0)-2,6-decenyl methyl ether], 91Juniper berry agresticals, 91
KKaranal (2,{2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1-yl}-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl}), 95Karotin, 51Kenzo
Flower, 193Kenzo for Men, 95Kenzo le monde est beau, 154, 252L’Eau par Kenzo, 128
Kerfoline, 75Ketambria, 34Kewra absolute, 45Khusimic Acid, 169khusimone, 30Khusinyl (2,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile), 225Klausenone, 196–197Klein, Calvin–Truth for Men by, 178, 179, 257Koavone, 57Kohinool (3,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers), 100Krishnanol, 55–56Krishnanone, 56, 177–178
LLabdacore, 103Labdanax, 35Labienone (2,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one), 121, 248Labienoxime, 252–253Labienoxime DA (2,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime), 124Lacoste, 224lactones, 39, 64, 123
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
295
Laevo Bacdanol, 182laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol [Levosandol], 182Laevo-cetalox, 210Laevo-Muscone, 199–201L’Air Du Temps, 38Laitone (7-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one), 109Lambert, Michel, 258Lancôme
Miracle, 143Ô de Lancôme, 128Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92, 114, 228
LanvinArpége, 2Oxygène, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252
Laroche, Fidji by, 2Lauren, Ralph
Lauren, 66Polo, 8Polo Export Extreme, 143
lauric aldehyde, 6lavandulol, 4, 23lavandulyl acetate, 4Lavonax (4-Pentenophenone), 108leaf acetal, 17leaf alcohol acetal, 17leathery scents, 128L’Eau d’Eden, 114, 128, 228L’eau d’Issey for Ladies, 190L’Eau par Kenzo, 128Leger, Paul, 258leguminous-citronellic notes
agrestical, 4–5, 24Lemonenal Supra (Cis-8-tetradecenal), 222–223Lemonile (Ethyl citral nitrile), 111Lenor, 99Lever, Vikä cologne by, 45Levosandol [laevo 2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-2-butenol], 182lichenous notes, 8, 98–99, 186licorous, 124Liffarome (cis 3-hexenylmethylcarbonate), 44Light Blue by Dolce & Gabanna, 198, 257Lilial, 14, 233
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
296
lily of the valley florals, 14, 117–119, 236–239limbanol, 93Limbanol [(trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3-
hexanol], 158–159lime citrics, 112Lime dienes DA, 112Lime oxide (2,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane), 23, 112linalol, 38linalol oxide, 4livescone, 11Lolita Lempicka, 190L’Origan by Coty, 2Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, 201lsobutylphenylethylcarbinyl acetate (Corps Rhubarbe), 18Lyral, 14Lyrisal (2,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal), 118Lysorangia, 26
MMa griffe by Carven, 2Macassar by Rochas, 22Maceal, 26, 42Maceol gylceryl acetal (Glycolierral), 74Macis, 190macrocyclic musks, 44Madame Rochas, 83Mademoiselle Coco, 144, 161Maderan, 54Maderol, 7Madranol [3-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol], 168–169Madrox (methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6Magnolan (2,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane), 117magnolia florals, 117Mahagonate, 7Majantol, 118maltol, 35maltyl isobutyrate, 35maltyl propionate, 35Mandaril (3,12-Tridecadien nitrile), 111–112mandarin aldehyde, 11, 26mandarin/tangerine citrics, 111–112Maniarmani, 143
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
297
Manzanate (Ethyl 2-methypentenoate), 126–127Marabase, 46Maracuyá, 46Marbert Men, 93, 97, 183marine and algoid odors, 32marine-resinous greens, 45–46Maritima, 75Marjalia, 18Marjoliane, 18marketing of perfumery, 47–48Mate Absolute, 22matyl isobutyrate, 105Maurin, Maurice, 81Mayol (cis-dihydro shiseol), 117Mayol [cis-4-(1-Methylethyl)cyclohexanemethanol], 14MCP acetate [2-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl
acetate], 31, 44, 99Mediterranis, 18Mefranal (3-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal), 118Megastigmadienone, 218Melol, 43melon fruity products, 14–15, 43, 122, 251–252Melonal (dimethyl heptenal), 15Melozone (Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde), 126menthanyl acetates, 4, 23Meoparf (mixture of 6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5-
en-1-ol), 236–237metallic greens, 18, 44–45, 126metalllic florals, 69metalllic fruity scents, 255–259Methoxymelonal (6-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal), 122methyl cedryl ketone (Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur), 6, 27Methyl chamomile (n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate), 51methyl cis-4-octenoate, 43Methyl cyclocitron, 52methyl cyclododecyl methyl ether (Madrox), 6Methyl cyclogeraniate (methyl-β-cyclogeraniate), 121, 151Methyl cyclohexyl ethanol, 61methyl dioxaspiro undecane (Hersage), 4, 23methyl dodecahydro trimethyl naphtho furan (Ambrox or Ambroxan, Fixateur
404), 8, 32methyl eugenol, 113
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
298
methyl 5-methylsalycilate (Petunial), 213methyl geraniate, 39methyl heptincarbonate, 19Methyl hexyl acetaldehyde, 51methyl isohexyl carbinyl acetate, 75methyl jasmonate, 40–41, 43Methyl laitone (4-Methyl-cyclohexyl spiro-4-g butirolactone), 110methyl n-acetyl antranilate (Jasminoflor), 68Methyl nicotinate, 61Methyl Nonylenate, 127methyl octa-4,7-dienoate (Anapear), 249–250methyl octincarbonate, 19Methyl Pamplemousse, 112, 178, 224methyl pentyrate, 89, 150methyl phenylpropionate, 210Methyl Sandeflor, 55Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate (Seamoss), 98methyl 3-nonenoate, 265Methyl tuberate or tuberolide (2-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone), 43methyl 2-hexenoate (carbavert), 89Methyl 2-methylpentenoate, 51methyl -2-(1,2,2-trimethylbicyclohexyl)-methyl cyclopropyl methanol [Javanol],
177–179Methyl vetivate, 30, 170–171methyl-α-ionone glycidate, 192methyl-β-cyclogeraniate (Methyl cyclogeraniate), 121, 151methyl-cis-4-octonate, 43methylcyclopentadecanone (Muscone), 9, 15, 105Methylcyclopentadecenone (Muscenone δ), 101methylcyclopentenolone, 34methylcyclopentenyl acetate (Cyclopidene), 41Methyl-δ-cyclogeranate (Deltanate), 152–153methyl-dihydrojasmonate (Hedione), 13, 15, 39, 43methyl-γ-cyclogeranate (Romascone), 151–152methylionones(I), 99, 233methylpentenyl isobutyrate, 24Methylpentenyle salicylate, 118methyl-pentyl-acetic (MPA) aldehyde, 76methyl-propyl oxathian, 39methylthiohexenol, 46methyl-thymyl-ether (Dihydrofloralate), 39Mettambrate (3-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate), 124
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
299
miel blanche, 107miel oliffac, 107Mimoril (2,4-Hexadienol), 42minty agresticals, 87–88Miracle by Lancôme, 143, 193miraldyl acetate, 38Miss Dior by Dior, 2, 26Miss Dior Chérie, 215Mitsouko by Guerlain, 2Molinard, Habanita by, 2Montana for ladies, 128Montaverdi (Cis-3-Hexenyl Cyclopropionate), 260Moore, Karl, 211Morellone (Benzyl dipropylketone), 108Moschus Lacton (cyclohexadecen-7-olide), 10Moskene, 34Mossenate (2-ethylbenzoxazole), 216Mousse Metra, 8Moxalone (1a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa-
β-naphatlene), 196–197MPA (methyl-pentyl-acetic) aldehyde, 76Mugetanol (1-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol), 118Mugler, Thierry–Cologne by, 170Mugovert, 71, 76Muguesia (3-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol), 238–239Muguet alcohol, 71Muguet alcohol acetate, 71muguet florals, 14, 42Muguetinol (3,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol), 237–238Muguettal, 26Muguol (allo ocimenol), 12, 38Mumtaz, 176Muscacide, 59Muscalone, 102Muscambrol, 32Muscambrol 850, 59Muscarome, 32Muscenone δ (Methylcyclopentadecenone), 101Muscogene, 34Muscone (methylcyclopentadecanone), 9, 15, 34, 105Musk Alpha, 34musk chemicals, 9–10, 32, 34, 100–102, 192–203
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
300
Musk D.T.I., 10Musk ether, 58Musk Fruitée 10952-3/D, 151–152Musk R-1 (11-Oxahexadecanolide), 10Muskalia, 34Muskia, 34Muskione, 34myrac aldehyde, 6myradyl acetate, 117Myrascone (ethyl, 2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexenyl carboxylate or ethyl-α-
cyclogeraniate), 150–151myrcenile acetates, 4, 23myrcenol, 12, 38Myristic Nitrile, 75myrrh, 107Myrrhone [(E)-4-(2,2,cis-3-trans-6-tetramethyl-R-1-cyclohexyl)-3-buten-2-one],
191–192Myrtenal, 38myrtenol, 31Mysoral [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al], 176–177Mysoran, 174Mysore sandalwood, 28
Nn-amylic esters of pentenoic acid, 89Narcisse ketone (p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate), 104–105narcissus-hyacinth florals, 72Navarro, Eugenia, 85n-Buytl 2-methyl valerianate (Methyl chamomile), 51n-Decyl nitrile, 60ndianol, 55Nebulone (3,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene),
201–202nectarol, 107Nectaryl (2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone), 43, 73Neobutenone alpha [mainly a-1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl)-4-penten-1-one],
255–257Neocaspirene (10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene),
123–124Neogall [DCHP (dimethyl cyclohexenylpentenone)], 46–47Neomusk, 34neoproxen, 90
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
301
Nerenal (Dimethyl-2,5-2-hexene-4-aldehyde), 65nerol oxide, 12neroli florals, 39Nerone, 39New West for ladies, 119New West for Men, 183Night for Her, Armani, 1949-decenal, 1579-epi-Ambrox, 2109-ethylidone-3-oxatricyclic (6,2,1,022) undecane [Rhubaflor], 56, 1729,10-undecadien nitrile (Floridile), 221–222Nirvanol [dextro 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl-1)-pent-4-
enol-1], 174–175Nirvanolide (13-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one), 195Nitrile nonadienyl (Violet nitrile), 72N-Methyl-N-phenyl-2-methyl butyramide (Gardamide), 126N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide, 67, 241–242noble ketones of vetyver, 30n-Octyl nitrile, 59Nolinac (4-Ethyloctanoic acid), 59, 104Nonadyl (6,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol), 127Nonadyl (III), 127Nonyl nitrile, 26Nootkatol, 225Nootkatone, 11Nootkatyl acetate, 225–226nopyl acetates, 4nor limbanol (2,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol), 93, 160–161norbornanol (Dihydrocyclol), 88Nordidedhydroambrox, 208novenal (II) ziblenia, 122Novolide, 102, 199Novorosan (citronellyl ethyl ether), 37n-Tridecanal, 60Nu by Yves Saint Laurent, 190, 193Nuits Indiennes, 182
OÔ de Lancôme, 128Ô de Lancôme for Men, 92ocimene-epoxide, 17, 18ocimenol, 38
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
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Octahydro-4, 7-methano-1H-indenecarboxal-dehyde (Melozone)), 126octahydrocoumarin, 10octahydroeugenol (Tarragol), 113, 227–228octahydrotetramethylnaphthalene (Iso E Super), 7octalactones, 11Octalinol (2,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol), 122, 252octen-1-ol-3, 4octen-1-ol-3 acetate, 4octyles, 42ocymene epoxyde, 127ocymenile acetates, 4, 23okoumal, 93–94omega hydroxymethyl longifolene, 28O-methoxy cinnamico aldehyde, 65Oncidal (trimethylundecadienal), 14, 431a,3,3,4,6,6-hexamethyl-1a,2,3,4,5,6,7,7a-octahydro-1-oxacyclopropa-β-
naphatlene (Moxalone), 196–1971-acetyl-3,3-dimethylcyclohexane (Herbac), 911-acetyl-3,3-dimethyl-1-cyclohexene (Artemone), 901-Allyl-2,2,7,7-tetramethylcycloheptanol (Chinchilol), 861-Cyclohexyl ethyl crotonate (Datilat), 1211-Ethynyl-cyclohexanyl acetate (Herbacet No. 1), 241,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene (Vetylbois), 961,4-dioxa-cyclohexadecane-5,16,dione (Cyclo ethylene dodecandioate or Arrova
16), 581-4-{isopropylcyclohexyl}-ethanol (Mugetanol), 1181-hydroxy-2-(1-hydroxyethyl)-5-methylcyclohexane [Geranodyle (Givaudan)],
240–2411-Methoxy indane (Phloralid), 701-Methyl lactate (Frescolat), 881-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde [Precyclemone
B], 69, 921-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane [Rosamusk], 1901,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-2,4a]-methano
naphthalene} (Ysamber K), 163–1641-(1,1,6,6-tetramethyl-1,2,3,6,7,8-hexahydro-asindacen-4-yl)-ethanone
[Dimuscan], 1991-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one [Tetrascone],
2171-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane [Oxyvet], 58(+) (1’R,4S)-4-(3’,3’-dimethyl-1-cyclohexyl-2,2-dimethyl-3-oxapentyl propionate)
[Helvetolide], 192–193
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
303
(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime [Rosoxime], 102, 2401,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate (Polywood), 281,7,7-trimethyl-2’-(isopropyl)-spiro-(bicycloheptane)-2,4’-{1,3}-dioxane
[Belambre], 158, 209–210(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl propionate
[Romandolide], 195–1961-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one (Spirogalbanone), 258–2591,3-Dimethyl-3-butenyl isobutyrate (Isopentyrate), 241,3-dioxolane, 2-methyl-4-phenyl (Jacinthaflor), 212–2131,3,5-undecatriene (Galbanolene), 18, 751,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl (Oxane), 461-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl-1)-4-penten-1-one (dihydro dynascone) [Galbaniff],
257–2581,3-undecadien-5-yne [Violettyne MIP (Firmenich)], 245–2461,2,8,8-tetramethyl octahydronaphtalen-2-yl ethanone (Georgywood), 165–1671-(2,4,4-trimethylcyclohex-1-(2)-enyl-1)-2-buten-1-one [Isodamascone],
4, 41, 2351-(2,6,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [α-Damascone], 15, 19, 41,
43, 81, 232–2331-(2,2-dimethyl-6-methylenecyclohexyl)-2-buten-1-one [γ-Damascone], 2321-(2,2,6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-buten-1-one [β-Damascone],
15, 36, 41, 43, 81, 232Opalal (7-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane), 148–149Opium by Yves Saint-Laurent, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183oral woody orris and violet florals, 119–120Orange pyridine (5-hexyl-2-methylpyridine), 223–224Orangeox, 222Orcinyl No. 3, 57Organza by Givenchy, 232Orinox (4-terbutyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone), 213Orivone (p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone), 30Oscar de la Renta, 10, 65o-Terbutylcyclohexyloxybutanol-2 (Amber core), 96o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol (Rootanol), 86Otkatone (I), 112Ourtivert, 18, 44, 75Oxadrane, 96Oxalide (10-Oxadecanolide), 10Oxambria, 32Oxambrol, 32Oxane (1,3-oxathian-2-methyl-2-propyl), 46Oxaspirane, 23
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
304
Oxirane carboxylic acid, 3/bicyclic (2,2,1) hept-5-en-2-yl) 3-methyl, methyl ether [Glycomel], 64
Oxo-α-ionyl isobutyrate, 218–219oxo-damascone, 70, 108oxo-edulan(III), 108Oxophorone (I) (2,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione), 108Oxophoryl, 62Oxo-Theaspirane (3-Theaspirone), 62, 109oxyacetaldehydes, 42Oxygène by Lanvin, 143, 162, 170, 176, 193, 252Oxyoctaline formate, 54Oxyser (vetyverone), 30Oxysesquine, 53Oxyvet [1-Oxaspiro (4,7) dodecane], 58Ozofleur (cis-4-tertiary pentylcyclohexyl ethyl ether), 157–158ozonic family, 92, 157–158
P – QPaco Rabanne, 27, 48Palisandin (cyclododecyl methyl ether), 6, 27palmarosa florals, 120Pamplefleur (IFF), 224Pamplenol, 56Pamplenol C (3-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers),
113Pampleune Aqua allegoria, 252Pamplovert, 224Pandanol (beta phenylethyl methyl ether), 45Pandora for Men, 220p-Anisyl Phenylacetate, 107Paradisamide, 224–225Paradisone [(+)-cis-(1R,2S) methyl dihydrojasmonate], 242–245Paris, 128Parker, Sarah Jessica–Lovely by, 201parmantheme, 19Parmanyl (Symrise) [3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile], 245Passifloran (3-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate), 266–267Patchomint (3,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol), 88Patchoulac (Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid), 70Patchouli epoxide, 7, 27patchouli woody chemicals, 53Patchoulol 100%, 161–162
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
305
Patchouly, 42, 92Patinol, 41Patou, Jean–Joy by, 68p-Chloroacetophenone, 72p-Cresol, 41p-Cresyl crotonate, 105p-Cresyl ethylcarbonate (Narcisse ketone), 104–105p-Cresyl isobutyrate, 41p-Cresyl isovalerate, 104p-Cresyl isovalerianate, 41p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone (Tricyclo hexanone P.), 65p-Cyclohexyl cyclo hexanone (Bicyclohexanone P), 61peachy fruits, 125pear fruity aromatics, 249–251Pearlate (cis-3-octenyl propionate), 264Peionile (2-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile), 119Pelargonic acid, 5, 51Pellegrino, Roger, 258pentambrette(II) [propyl acetate], 99Pentanal hexyleneglycol acetal (Herboxane), 50, 127pentenoic, n-amylic esters of, 89pentylcyclopentenone (Delphone), 39, 40peomosa (2-Methylphenylethyl alcohol), 116Peranat (2-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate), 250Perfumer’s Workshop, Tea Rose by, 240perfumery marketing, 47–48Perilla (dihydrocuminic aldehyde), 11p-Ethyl phenol ethyl ether (Anise ether), 64p-Ethyl phenoxyacetaldehyde, 76p-Ethylphenol, 103p-Ethyl-phenol methyl ether, 69Petitgrain Paraguay, 23Petunial (methyl 5-methylsalycilate), 213Pey, Arturo Jordi, 258phantolid ketal + a methyl group (Amraketal), 94Pharaone (2-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one), 257Phenafleur (Phenylethyl cyclohexylether), 72Phenirane, 67Phenomuskol (p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone), 70Phenoxanol (3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol), 67, 116, 239phenoxyacetic aldehyde (Cortex Aldehyde), 17, 44Phenyl acetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, 71
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
306
Phenyl cyclopropanoic acid (Patchoulac), 70Phenyl ethyl-n-butyl ether, 66phenyl methyl penten nitrile (Citronitrile), 37phenylacetates, 107phenylacetic acid, 107phenylacetic aldehyde, 17, 44phenylacetic aldehyde ethylene glycol acetal, 72phenylacetketone, 125phenylaketone, 18Phenylethyl cyclohexylether (Phenafleur), 72Phenylethyl ethyl ether (Rosacintin), 72phenylethyl methyl ether (Genistafol), 68Phenylethyl 2-methyl butyrate, 67phenylethyl-alpha-propyl acetal (Acetal R), 45phenylethyles, 42phenylpropionic aldehyde, 19Phenyral, 74Phloralid (1-Methoxy indane), 70Photo, 183p-hydroxyphenyl-butanone (Fambione), 15physeol (III), 93pineapple fruity aromatics, 43, 122, 249–251Pineone (2,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one), 25pinoacetaldehyde, 42p-Isopropyl phenylacetaldehyde, 44p-Isopropyl-hydratropaldehyde, 44p-Isopropylphenyl-2-butanal (Florhydral), 117–118Pivarose, 39Piver, Tréfle Incarnat by, 2Pleasures by Estée Lauder, 252Pleasures Intense, 193Plicatone [4-Methyl-tricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-5-one], 252-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 73p-menthen-9-al, 13, 39p-methoxyphenyl butanone (Frambinon methylether), 15, 43p-Methyl dimethyl benzyl carbinol, 71–72p-methyl phenyl acetaldehyde, 44p-Methylphenoxyacetaldehyde (Aldehyde XI), 119p-methyoxy-phenylbutanone, 15Polo by Ralph Lauren, 8, 42, 105, 262Polo Export Extreme, 143Polymethylol acetate, 66
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
307
Polysantol (3,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and 1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol), 97, 174, 182–183
Polywood [1,7,7-trimethyl bicyclo (4,4,0) decyl-3-acetate], 28Polywoodis, 28Pomarose (5,6,7-Trimethyl octa-2,5-dien-4-one), 234–235Pour-Femme by Jean Louis Scherrer, 42Prachinese, 190Prassinate, 250–251Precarone (4-(3-Methyl-2-butenyl)-4,7,7-trimethylbicyclo-[4,1,0] heptan-3-one),
120, 242Precyclemone B [1-methyl-4-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde],
69, 92prenyl angelate, 153–154Printanyl/C, 71Prismantol (4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-[3.3.3]-decan-2-ol), 162–163Prismylate, 170Private Collection, 128Profarnesal, 44propionate, 16, 41propyl acetate [pentambrette(II)], 99propyl dianthilis, 106, 116Propyl phenylacetate, 107propylene glycol acetals of vanilla, 60propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate [Sclareolate], 147–148Provencalis, 18Prunella, 152, 212Pseudo Linalol, 38p-tertiary amyl cyclohexanone (Orivone), 30p-Tertiary butyl acetophenone (Phenomuskol), 70P-tertiary butylquinoline, 104pungent woody products, 6–8, 27–28, 53, 92–96pyrazines, 255Pyroprunat (2-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate), 121
quinolines, 37
RRabanne of Paco Rabanne, 14racinal, 42Racinon, 30radiant family, 4, 15–16, 43–44, 125
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
308
Raphael, Replique by, 2raspberry fruity products, 43, 122reconstitutions
versus natural oils 1985, 22
Red Jeans, 182Replique by Raphael, 2Reseda Body [4,4,6-Trimethyl-2-benzyl (1,3) dioxane], 72Resedafol, 45Resinodor, 155resinous balsams, 35, 107–108resinous greens, 18–19, 45–46, 127Rhodipol/C, 35Rholiate, 24Rhubaflor, 56, 172Rhubafuran (Soofi), 186Rhubofix, 7, 27, 169Rhubofuran, 172Rhumacetal (Cyclohexanone diethylacetal), 124Robert, Guy, 81Rocabar, 85Rochas
Absolu de Rochas, 195Aquaman, 162Femme, 2Globe, 99Macassar, 22Madame Rochas, 83
Roma, 128Romanal (tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide), 7Romandolide [(1S,1’R)-1-[3’,3’-domethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-ethoxycarbonyl]-methyl
propionate], 195–196Romascone (methyl-γ-cyclogeranate), 151–152Romeo Gigli Man Cologne, 110, 220Root Body, 35Rootanol (o-Terbutyl-4-methyl-cyclohexanol), 86roots, 4, 127Rosacinthin (beta phenylethyl ethyl ether), 45Rosacintin (Phenylethyl ethyl ether), 72Rosaltone, 39Rosalva, 41Rosalyptus (Rhodia) [N-N-diethyl-2-ethylhexanamide], 241–242
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
309
Rosamusk [1-(1-acetoxyethyl-1)-3,3-dimethylcycloxane], 190rosaphen, 116Rose dihydroxide, 67rose florals, 12–13, 67–68, 116, 239–242rose furan, 13, 39rose ketones, 230–235rose nitrile, 116rose oxide, 12, 39Rose oxo-oxide, 67Roseate, 41Rosetyl (0-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether), 69Rosilial (Rhodia) [citronnellyl lactate], 241Rosoxime [(1R,4S)-3-p-menthanone oxime], 240Rosyrane (2-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane), 119Roudnitska, Edmond, 3, 20, 78, 81, 115, 129, 145, 166, 219, 243, 244Royal Ambré, 48Ruzicka, Leopold, 211
SSafari for Ladies, 128Safari for Men, 97, 183Saffrania, 38Safraleine (2,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one), 226Safranal, 38Safrandione (2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one), 226–227sagetone V (Bornane-3,1-cyclopentanone-2), 85Saint-Laurent, Yves
Nu, 190, 193Opium, 28, 67, 74, 143, 183
salicylate, 17Salycinalva (2-phenylhexanitrile), 154Samaram, 85Samsara, 97, 128, 183San Dra C, 174, 204Sandalore, 29Sandalwood Givco (Givaudan), 178sandalwood products, 6–8, 28–30, 32, 55–56, 87, 96–98, 173–185Sandel C, 29Sandel Mysore Core, 174Sandel/A [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55Sandela [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29Sandelex TNK (3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol), 8, 29
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
310
Sandenol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8, 29Sandeol [3-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol], 8Sanjinol, 182Santal Mysore Core [2-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol], 55santalol, 8Sauvegrain, Philippe, 258Scalareolide, 158, 208Scarious, Cyperius, 22Scentenal (6-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde), 76Scheherazade, 171Scherrer, Jean Louis
Pour-Femme, 42Scherrer II, 183
Schiff base of campholenic aldehyde and methyl anthranilate (Aromavert), 108Sclarene (4,5-Decamethylene oxazole), 85Sclareolate [propyl-2-(1,1-dimethylpropoxy)-propionate], 147–148Sclarex (5,5-dimethyl-1,4,4a,5,6,7,8,8a-octahydro-1,4-methanonaphtolen-6-yl
acetate), 150Seamoss (Methyl 3-methyl resorcylate), 98secbutylmethoxypyrazine, 18, 44Sensi, 193Serenolide, 2037-dipropyl-8,8-dimethyl-6,10-dioxaspiro-[4.5]-decane (Opalal), 148–1497,11-Epoxymegastigma-5(6)-en-9-one, 2187-Isopropyl-1-oxaspiro [4,5] nonan-2-one (Laitone), 1097-(3’-methylbutyl)-benzo{β}-{1,4}-dioxepin-3-one [Azurone], 251Shangralide, 58s-heptyl furan, 68Shillong, 190Shiva, 45Sigaride, 11Silvial, 229Silvial (2-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal), 230sinensal, 37Sinocitril, 376-Acetoxydihydrotheaspirane, 1546-Amylalphapyrone, 366-amyl-a-pyrone(II), 1096,8-Dimethyl-2-nonanol (Nonadyl), 1276-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol and 6-ethyl-3-methylocte-5-en-1-ol, mixture of
(Meoparf ), 236–2376-hydroxydihydrotheaspirane, 89, 186–187
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
311
6-Isopropyl-2-decalone (Decatone), 306-methoxy cyclopentadiene carboxaldehyde (Scentenal), 766-Methoxy-2,6-dimethylheptanal (Methoxymelonal), 1226, 7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone [Cashmeran], 42, 446-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone (Tuberolactone), 43So de Givenchy, 194So Pretty, 128Sonia Rykiel, 190Soofi (Rhubafuran), 186Sotolone (4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2,5-dihydrofuran-2-one), 214–215Spezia, 38spice family, 3, 11, 38, 65–66, 113, 226–227Spirambrene, 95Spirogalbanone (1-spiro-[4.5]-dec-7-en-7-yl-4-penten-1-one), 258–259Stemone, 18strrax, 154styrallyl acetate, 75Styrallyl crotonate (Forenat), 108sugar pyranone (2,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone), 215–216Sulfocassione, 253–254sulfox (II), 123Sumatril (Tricyclodecane carbonitrile), 105Super Muguet, 229Sylvestone, 11Syvertal, 45
TTabanone (3-megastigmatrienone), 62, 108Tabaxol (2-methylbenzoxazole), 216tachrysate, 25Tamarine base, 46Tamigone, 90Tamisone, 154–155Tangenil, 37tangerine citrics, 63–64tangerinol(III), 126Tarragol (octahydroeugenol), 113, 227–228TCD acetate (tricyclodecane methanol acetate), 31tea, 154Tea Rose by Perfumer’s Workshop, 240Ted Lapidus for Men, 93Tellurol, 70
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
312
10-Isopropyl-2,7-dimethyl-1-oxaspiro-[4,5]-deca-3,6-diene (Neocaspirene), 123–124
10-Oxadecanolide (Oxalide), 10Terrasol (ethyl fenchol), 28, 86Tetrahydro ethyl safranate (Thesaron), 153tetrahydrocitral, 5, 24Tetrahydroedulane, 52tetrahydroionol, 187–188tetrahydrolinalol, 38Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-phenyl-2H-pyran (Doremox), 119Tetrahydro-4-methyl-2-pyran-4-ol (Clarycet), 84–85tetrahydromyrcenol, 12, 38tetrahydromyrcenyl acetate, 38Tetrahydronootkatol, 225tetramethyl hexanal (Vandor B or TMH Aldehyde), 24tetra methyl tricyclo undecane epoxide (Romanal), 7Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one (Valanone B), 54Tetramethylethylcyclohexanone, 90, 155Tetrascone [1-(1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-4,4-dimethyl-1-naphtalenyl)-propan-1-one], 217Theaspirane, 52, 154Thesaron (Tetrahydro ethyl safranate), 153Thibetolide, 34Thio Terpineol, 46, 63Thiocineol, 37, 46, 112Thiogeraniol, 46Thiolimonene, 46, 112thioterpineol(III), 112thiovert (III), 12313-methyloxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one (Nirvanolide), 19513,Oxabicyclo {10,3,0} pentadecane (Cyclamber), 54, 963-Acetyl thio hexyl acetate (Passifloran), 266–2673-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propane nitrile [Parmanyl (Symrise)], 2453-decen-2-one, 723-(5,5,6-Trimethylbicyclo[2.2.1]hept-2-yl) cyclohexan-1-ol (Sandela, Santalex
TNK, Sandeol or Sandenol), 8, 293-(5-Methyl-2-furyl)-butanal, 246–2473-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanenitrile (Fleuranil), 1583,4,5,6,6-Pentamethylheptanol-2 and isomers (Kohinool), 1003-Methyl octyl nitrile (Jascitile), 593-{4-Methylcyclo-hexen-3-yl}-butanol (Cyclomethylene citronellol), 1173-megastigmatrienone (Tabanone), 62, 1083-Mercapto-3-methylbutyl Formate (Cassis Thio Formate), 253–254
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
313
3-methyldodecyl nitrile (Frescyle), 643-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentan nitrile (Hydrocitronitrile), 2303-Methyl-5-phenylpentanal (Mefranal), 1183-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol (Phenoxanol), 67, 116, 2393-Methyl-4-tricyclodec-4-en-8-ylidene butan-2-ol (Fleursandol), 179–1813-Methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)-butan-2-ol [Madranol], 168–1693-Methyl-γ-nonalactone, 733-methyl-4-phenyl-2-butanol (Muguesia), 238–2393-Methyl-6-p-tertiary butyl phenol, 583-methylthiohexenol, 463-Methyl-5-{2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopenten-1-yl}-4penten-2- ol (Ebanol), 97, 1823-methyl-2-hexenyl acetate (Aladinate), 2643-Oxa-4,4,8,9-tetramethylbicyclo [4,4,0]-dece-7-ene and isomers (Pamplenol C),
1133-oxa-10-ethylidenetricyclo (6,2,1,0) undecan-4-one [Florex], 353-phenyl butyraldehyde (Trifernal), 76(+)-(3S, 1’R,6’S) Nor Limbanol. 2,2,6-Trimethyl-α-propyl cyclohexane propanol
[Nor Limbanol and Dextro Nor Limbanol], 93, 160–1613-Secbutyl cyclohexylacetate (Mettambrate), 1243,6-Dimethyl-1,6-octadienol (Muguetinol), 237–2383-Theaspirone (Oxo-Theaspirane), 62, 1093-Thiohexanol, 2653-Thiohexyl acetate, 2663-Thiohexyl butyrate, 2673-Thiohexyl Caproate, 2673-Thiohexyl invovalerate, 2673,3-Dimethyl-5-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-pent-4-enol and
1,2,2-Trimethyl-4-[2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-en-1-yl]-but-3-enol (Polysantol), 97, 174, 182–183
3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane [Thymoxane], 523,3-Dimethyl-2-norbornane-2-ethanol (Patchomint), 883,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 363,3,5-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1one (Isophorone), 1083,3,5-Trimethylcyclohexyl ethyl ether (Herbavert), 1283,3,4,5-Pentamethyl-11,13-dioxatricyclo-[7,4,0,0-{2,6}]-tridec-2/6-ene
(Nebulone), 201–2023,12-Tridecadien nitrile (Mandaril), 111–1123-(2-Bornyloxy)-2-methyl,exo- 1.propanol [Bornafix], 164–165thuione, 4thujonic herbals, 53, 90–91, 154–155Thymoxane [3,3-Dimethyl-1.5-dioxaspiro (5,5) undecane], 52tiglates, 16, 39
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
314
tiglic acid, 35Timberol, 7, 15, 27Timberol Forte, 206Timberone, 54TMH Aldehyde (tetramethyl hexanal), 24, 88Tobacarol [5,6-epoxy-2,6,10,10-Tetramethyl bicyclo (7,2,0)-undecane], 94tobacco chemicals, 32, 36–37, 61–63, 108–109, 216–219Tocade, 239Tonalide, 10Tonkalactone, 110Tonkarol (Ethyl cyclohexyl ethanol), 61Too Much Champs Elysées, 193Trans-δ-Damascone [1-(2,6,6-trimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-but-2-en-1-one],
125, 232, 234Trans-decahydro β-naphthol, 55trans-4-decenal, 26trans-Methyl Nor Limbanol) 1-(2,2,3,6-Tetramethyl-1-cyclohexyl)-3-hexanol
[Limbanol], 158–159trans-9-decenal, 5trans-9-undecenal, 155–157trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol (violet leaf alcohol), 122trans-2-decenal, 5, 26trans-2-dodecenalaldehydes, 5citrics, 11trans-2-heptenal, 5trans-2-hexenol, 17trans-2-nonenal, 5, 26trans-2-tetradecenal, 229–230trans-2-tridecenalaldehydes, 5, 26citrics, 11trans-2-undecenal, 5Traseolide, 10Tréfle Incarnat by Piver, 2Tressor, 127Tricyclo hexanone P. (p-Cyclo hexyl cyclo hexanone), 65Tricyclodecane carbonitrile (Sumatril), 105tricyclodecane methanol acetate (TCD acetate), 31Tricyclone DIPG, 61Tricyclone DPG, 110tridecen-2-nitrile, 37
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
315
Trifernal (3-phenyl butyraldehyde), 76Trimenal (trimethyldecadienal), 26Trimethyl cyclododecadienol and trimethyl-cyclododecatrienol (Boisanol), 94trimethyl cyclohexyl acetate, 4Trimethyl octenol, 66trimethylcyclodecatriene epoxide (Cedroxyde), 7Trimethylcyclohexenemethanol (Isocyclogeraniol), 120trimethylcyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde (Isocyclocitral), 17trimethylcyclohexyl acetate, 23trimethyldecadienal (Trimenal), 26trimethylhexanal, 4, 24trimethylpentylcyclopentanone (Veloutone), 39, 41trimethylundecadienal (Oncidal), 14, 43trimethylundecylenic aldehyde (Adoxal or Farenal), 17Trimofix (acetyl-1 ,5,9-trimethyl-1-5-9 cyclododecatriene), 28Triplal (dimethyl-cyclohexenylcarboxaldehyde), 17, 25, 39Triplal nitrile (Trivertanyl), 110–111Trisamber (Decahydro-2,6,6,7,8,8- Hexamethyl-8H-indeno [4,5-B]-furan), 163Trivertanol (Dimethyl-2,4-cyclohexene-3-methanol), 74Trivertanyl (Triplal nitrile), 110–111tropical greens, 127, 265–267Truth for Men by Calvin Klein, 178, 179, 257Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 99, 112Tuberolactone (6-[2,Pentenyl]-5,6-dihydro-2-pyrone), 43Tuscani, 18312-Norallisolongifolan-14-one, 208–20912-Oxahexadecanolide (Hibiscolide), 102-Acetoxy-1,8-cineol, 1502-acetyl furan, 216–217(-)-(2)-α-trans Bergamotol, 562-{cyclododecyl}-propan-1-ol (Hydroxyambran), 94–95, 158, 167–1682-Cyclohexyl cyclohexanone (Givmenthe), 882-cyclohexylethyl acetate (Ciclanol Acetate), 682-cyclohexyl-1,6-heptadien-3-one (Pharaone), 2572-Cyclohexylidene-2-phenylacetonitrile (Peionile), 1192-cyclopentenyl cyclo pentanone, 662-Cyclopentyl-cyclopentyl crotonate (Pyroprunat), 1212-dodecadienal, 11, 372-Dodecenoic acid, 642-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol (Ultravanil), 1062-ethoxy-thiazole, 442-ethylbenzoxazole (Mossenate), 216
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
316
2-ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2(2H)-furanone [Homofuronol], 2142.5-dimethyl heptene-5-ol-2, 502,5-Dimethyl-2-octen-6-one (Dimethyloctenone), 1132,5,5-Trimethyl-2,6,-heptadien-4-one (artemisia ketone), 912,5,7,7-Tetramethyloctanal (Lyrisal), 1182,5,6-Trimethyl-4-heptenal (Greenal), 882,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine (Vethymine), 872,4-Dimethyl 4-penylpentane nitrile (Khusinyl), 2252,4-Dimethyl-3-cyclohexene-1-methanyl acetate (Floralate), 1122,4-Dimethyl-5,6-indanyldioxane (Magnolan), 1172,4,4,7-Tetramethyl-6,8-nonadien-3-one oxime (Labienoxime DA), 123–1242,4,4,7-Tetramethylnonan-6,8-dien-3-one (Labienone), 121, 2482,4,4,7-tetramethyl-oct-6-3n-3-one (Claritone), 149–1502,4,4-Trimethylcyclohexe-2-one (Pineone), 252,4-Hexadienol (Mimoril), 422-hexyl furan, 682-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxy octaline (Alpha-Ambrinol epoxide), 322-hydroxy-2,5,5-trimethyl-8,8-A-epoxyoctaline (Ambrinoloxyde), 1022-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one (Safrandione), 226–2272-Methyl decyl nitrile (Frutonile), 692-methyl pentenoic acid, 892-methyl tetrahydro furan-3-one, 642-methylbenzoxazole (Tabaxol), 2162-methylbutyrate, 162-methyl-4-(2,6,6.trimethylcyclohexen-2-yl)-butanal [Cetonal], 2472-Methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)2-butenol [Santal Mysore Core or
Sandel/A ], 552-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-al [Mysoral], 176–1772-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethylcyclopent-3-enyl)-pent-4-en-1-ol [Firsantol],
97, 175–1762-Methyl-1,4-nonalactone (Methyl tuberate or tuberolide), 432-methylpentyl 2-methylpentanoate (Peranat), 2502-Methylphenylethyl alcohol (peomosa), 1162-Methyl-3-cyclohexecarboxaldehyde glycerol acetal (Histidal), 872-Methyl-3-(-2-methyl-5-isopropenyl-cyclopentenyl) propyl acetate [MCP
acetate], 31, 44, 992-methyl-3,(4)-(2-methylpropyl)-phenylpropanal (Silvial), 2302-Methyl-2-vinyl-5-isopropenyl tetrahydrofuran (Desoxide), 23212 by Carolina Herrera, 1752-Oxa-2-oxo-bicyclo (4,4,0) decane [Bicyclolactone], 612-Phenyl-4-methyl-dihydroprane (Rosyrane), 1192-phenylhexanitrile (Salycinalva), 154
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
317
2-[p-Mehthenyl-9]-cyclopentanone (Nectaryl), 432-Secbutyl cyclohexanone (Freskomenthe), 882,7-Dimethyl oct-5-en-4-one (Isotagetone), 732,6 Dodecadienal, 112,6-Dimethylbicyclo (64.4.06) decan-1-ol [Geosmin], 32, 332,6-Dimethyl-4-heptanone, 1472,6,9,10-Tetramethyl-1-oxaspiro-{4,5}-deca-3,6-diene (Isospirene), 39, 64, 1242,6-Nonadien nitrile), 1202,6-nonadienol, 14, 192,3-Dihydro-3,5-dihydroxy-6-methyl-4H-pyranone (sugar pyranone), 215–2162,3-laevo-Dihydrofarnesol, 237–2382,3,3-Trimethyl indan-1-one (Safraleine), 2262-tridecenal, 372,2,4 (2,4,4) trimethyl cyclopentanone, 532,-5-methyl-5-{1-methylpropyl} (Karanal), 952,[2-Methyl-3-pentenyl]-5-ethylpyridine (Hederyl), 1262,2,6,8-Tetramethyl-2-octalinol (Octalinol), 122, 2522,2,6-Trimethyl cyclo hex-5-en-1,4-dione (Cetotabac), 36, 108–109, 2172,2,6-trimethyl cyclohex-5-en-1,4-dione (Oxophorone), 1082,2,6-Trimethyl-a-propyl-cyclohexane propanol (nor limbanol), 93, 160–1612,2,6-Trimethylcyclohexanone, 252,2,6-Trimethyl-2-vinyl-tetrahydropyrane (Lime oxide), 23, 1122,2,6-Trimethyl-6-vinyl-tetrahydropyrano (Geranic oxide), 23
UUltravanil (2-Ethoxy-4-methylphenol), 106Ultraviolet, 143, 176, 193Undecavertol (4-Methyl-3-decen-5-ol), 127undecen-2-nitrile(II), 111Undecylenic nitrile, 60Ungaro for Men and Gentlemen by Givenchy, 86
VVacher, Paul, 81Valanone B (Tetramethyl tricyclo undecan-5-one), 54Van Cleef & Arpels
Tsar, 99Van Cleef & Arpels for Men, 106, 128Zanzibar, 162
Vandor B (tetramethyl hexanal), 24vanilla family, 35, 60, 106
Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution
318
vanillin, 106Vanillyl isobutyrate (Isobutavan), 106Veloutone (trimethylpentylcyclopentanone), 39, 41Veramoss, 8Verbenone, 45, 50Verbenyl acetate, 147Verdima (α,α-Diethylpyridine), 261–262Verlastil, 44Vernaldehyde, 44Versus Time for Action, 194Vert d’ Encens, 45Vert de Capicine, 45Vert de Pamplemousse, 46, 112Vert Violettal, 19Vertamide, 75Vertofix/Vertofix Coeur (methyl cedryl ketone), 6–7, 27, 233Vertral (II) (formyltricyclodecane), 125Verylane, 50Vethymine (2,4-Diethoxy-5-methylpyrimidine), 87Vetiver by Gerlain, 128vetiver chemicals, 169–173vetiver oils, 87Vetocet (vetyverone), 30Vetycon, 30Vetykone, 186Vetylbois (1,4-Dimethoxy-2-terbutyl benzene), 96Vetysertone (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30Vetyval (4-Cyclohexyl-4-methyl-2-pentanone), 30vetyver, 30, 92Vetyverols, 169vetyverones (Oxyser and Vetrocet), 30Vigoflor (IFF), 186Vikä cologne by Lever, 45violet florals, 14, 72, 119–120, 245–248violet greens, 19violet leaf alcohol (trans-2-cis-6-nonadienol), 122Violet nitrile (Nitrile nonadienyl), 72Violet nitrile (2,6-Nonadien nitrile), 120Violettyne MIP (Firmenich) (1,3-undecadien-5-yne), 245–246Violiff (IFF) [4-cycloocten-1-yl methyl-4-carbonate], 246Vivaldie (Cis-3-Hexenyl methylallyl ether), 261vulcanolide, 102, 198
Arcadi Boix Camps Index
319
WWardia, 235Warnecke, Hans Ulrich, 161, 168watermelon fruity, 122, 251–252watermelon ketone (dihydrobenzoxepinone), 15, 81White Cyclamen, 120White Rose (Bielaya Rosa), 239Wings for Women, 114Wolkowisky, Mr., 78woody family, 3, 6–8, 26–31, 53–57, 92–98, 158–169, 186–192woody oakmoss chemicals, 57woody-floral family, 99–100woody-moist-rooty-earthy chemicals, 56–57Woolfwood ([15-(1!a,2!b,3!b,5!a)]-2,6,6-trimethylspiro [bicyclo-[3.1.1]heptane-
3,1’-[2]-cyclohexen]-4-one), 96, 169–170Worth, Je reviens by, 2
X – YXSfor ladies, 127, 182, 183, 236for men, 92
Yatagan, 27, 48Yrotil (ethylethylcapronate), 30Ysamber K, 158Ysamber K (1,1,5,5-tetramethyl hexahydro spiro {1,3-dioxolane-2,8-(5H)-[2H-
2,4a]-methano naphthalene}), 163–164Yugoslavian Oakmoss absolute, 57Yvresse, 23, 128
ZZanzibar by Van Cleef & Arpels, 162Zegna, Essenza by, 175, 176, 190Zen de Shiseido, 400-Methoxy benzyl ethyl ether (Rosetyl), 69Zestaroma, 17zestarome, 125Zestodial, 17, 125Ziblenia, 43Zinarine, 263–264