173139226 the Professional Chef Το ΓΑστρονομικό Ινστιτούτο ΑμΕρικής...

8/11/2019 173139226 the Professional Chef a VOLUME

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essional chefN I N T H E D I T I O N

The Culinary Institute of America

Cure XL'UNARY\INSTITUTEAMERICAJTHE WORLD'S PREMIERC U L I N A RY C O L L E G E


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This book is printed on acid-free paper. @

Copyright 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved

THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

Pres iden t Dr. Tim Ryan 11

Vice-President , Dean of Cul inary Educat ion Mark Erickson '77

Senior Director, Educat ional Enterpr ises Susan Cussen

Direc to r o f Pub l i sh ing Nathalie Fischer

Edi to r i a l P ro jec t Manager s Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00

Edi to r i a l Ass i s t an t s Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell 08

Pub lished by John Wi ley


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Master Recipe List viii

Acknowledgments xvi

Introduction xviii .

PA R T O N E

essionalINTRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION 3

MENUS AND RECIPES IB

THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE 23

FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY 31

PA R T T W O

tools and ingredients in theprofessional kitchen

chapter 5 EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION 43

Chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATION 69

chapter 7 FISH AND SHELLFISH IDENTIFICATION 99

chapter 8 FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB IDENTIFICATION 12 7

Chapter 9 DAIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND IDENTIFICATION 181

chapter 10 DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION 19 9


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P A R T T H R E E

stocks, sauces, and soupschap te r ! ! MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS 239

chapter 12 STOCKS 253

chapter 13 SAUCES 267

chapter 14 SOUPS 301

PA R T F O U R

meats, poultry, fish, and shellfishchapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH 361

chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH 37 5

chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING 42 3

Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING 487

chapter 19 STEAMING AND SUBMERSION COOKING 531

chaptei -2 0 BRAISING AND STEWING 571

PA R T F I V E

vegetables, potatoes, grains andlegumes, and pasta and dumplings

chapter 21 MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS 617

chapter 22 COOKING VEGETABLES 64 7

chapter 23 COOKING POTATOES 71 3

chapter 24 COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES 751

chapter 25 COOKING PASTA AND DUMPLINGS 807


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PA R T S I X . . ;

breakfast and garde mangerchapter 26 COOK ING EGGS 847

Chapter 27 SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALA DS 879

chapter 28 SANDWICHES 931

chapter 29 HORS D'OEUVRE AND APPET IZERS 945

chapter 30 CHARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER 985

PA R T S E V E N

baking and pastrychapter 31 BAK ING MIS E EN PLACE 1015

chapter 32 YEA ST BREAD S 1025

Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS 1047

Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS , AND MOU SSES 1091 H

chapter 35 FILLIN GS, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES 1107;Q

4 >>

chapter 36 PLATED DESSER TS 1131, v -

Appendix 1161 J f l

Glossary 1167

Read ings and Res ource s 1185

Recipe Inde x 1191

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master recipe listchapter 12 stocks

Chicken Stock 263

WHITE VEAL STOCK 26 3

WHITE BEEF STOCK 26 3

Brown Veal Stock 263

BROWN GAME STOCK (JUS DE GIBIER ) 264

ESTOUFFADE 264

BROWN LAMB STOCK 26 4

BROWN PORK STOCK 26 4

BROWN CHICKEN STOCK 26 4

BROWN DUCK STOCK 26 4

Fish Fumet 264

SHELLFISH STOCK 264

Vegetable Stock 26 5

ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK 26 5

Court Bouillon 265

Poul t ry and Meat Stock (Brodo ) 266

Ichi Ban Dashi 26 6

chap ter 13 sauces

J u s d e Ve a u L i e 2 9 3

JUS DE VOLAILLE LIE 29 3

JUS DE CANARD LIE 29 3

JUS D'AGNEAU LIE: 29 3

JUS DE GIBIER LIE 29 3

Demi-Glace 293

Espagnole Sauce 2 94

Chicken Veloute 294 SUPREME SAUCE 29 4

FISH VELOUTE 29 4

SHRIMP VELOUTE 294

VEGETABLEVELOUTE 294

Bechamel Sauce 295 CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE 29 5

MORNAYSAUCE 295

CREAM SAUCE 295

Tomato Sauce 2 95

Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 296Tomato Coulis 296

Bearnaise Sauce 297

MINT SAUCE (PALOI5E SAUCE) 297

CHORONSAUCE 297

Hollandaise Sauce 298

MOUSSELINE SAUCE 298MALTAISE SAUCE 29 8

Beurre Blanc 299

Red Pepper Coulis 299

Pesto 299

MaTtre dHotel Butter 300

TARRAGON BUTTER 30 0

PIMIENTO BUTTER 300

GREEN ONION BUTTER 30 0

DILL BUTTER 300

SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANOBUTTER 300

BASIL BUTTER 300

chap ter 14 soups

Beef Consomme 333

CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE. 333

Royale Custard 333

Chicken Broth 334

AM ISH CORN AND CHICK ENSOUP 334

BEEF BROTH: 33 4

VEAL BROTH 334

HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH 33 4

LAMB BROTH 334

TURKEY OR GAME BROTH 33 4

FISH BROTH 33 4

SHELLFISH BROTH 334

Onion Soup 335

WHITE ONION SOUP 335

ONION SOUP GRATINEE 33 5

Tortilla Soup 335

Chicken Rice Soup (Canja) 33 6 Cream of Tomato Soup 339

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITHRICE 339

Cream of Broccoli Soup 339CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME

AR G EN TEU IL ) 33 9

CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE CELERI) 33 9

Wisconsin Chedd ar Cheese and Beer Soup 340

New England-Style Clam Chowder 340

Conch Chowd er 341

Corn Chowder 341

Pacific Seafood Chowder 342 Manh at tan-Style Clam Chowder 344

Puree of Lentil Soup 344

Puree of Split Pea Soup 345

PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEASOUP 345

Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup 34 5

Senat e Bean Soup 346

Potage Garbure 346

Vichyssoise 347

Shrimp Bisque 347

Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard ) 348

Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo 348

Gazpacho An daluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 34 9

Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 350

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 350Spicy B eef Soup (Yukkaejang ) 351

Miso Soup 353Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and Galangal 353

Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 354 WontonSoup 354

Tuscan Wh ite Bean and Escarole Soup 355

Vegetable Soup, Emilia Romagna Style ( Mines t rone alia Emiliana) 357

Minest rone 357

chapter 15 mise en place formeats, poultry, fish, and shellfish

Garam Masala 368

Chinese Five-Spice Powder 368

Barbecue Spice Mix 368

Chili Powder 368

Curry Powder 369

Quatre Epices 369

v i i i MASTER RECIPE LIST


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Fines Herbes 369

Red Curry Paste 370

Green Curry Paste 370

Yellow Curry Paste 371

Seasoning Mix for Spi t -Roasted Meats and Poultr y 371

A s ia n -S ty le Mar in ad e 372

Barbecue Marinade 372

Fish Marinade 372

Red Wine Game Marinade 372

Lamb Marinade 373

Lat in Ci t rus Marinade (Mojo) 373

Red Wine Marinade fo r Gri lled Meats 374

Teriyaki Marinade 374

chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and

roasting

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 440

GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAKWITH MAITRE DHOTEL BUTTER 440

MUSHROO M SAUCE 440

Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 441

MARCHAND DEVIN SAUCE 441

Sei tan Satay 442

Beef Teriyaki 445

Barbecued Steak with Herb Crust 445Skewered Beef and Scallions 446

Grilled Rib Eye Steak 446

Pork and Veal Skewers (Raznjici ) 447

BROILED LAMB KEBABS WITHPIMIENTO BUTTER 44 7

DILL SAUCE 447

Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 448

AP PL E CIDER SAUCE 44 8

CARAMELIZED APPLES 448

Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vineg ar Sauce 450

SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE 450

Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Articho kes, and Cipollini Onions 451

Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 453

FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY 453

Pakis tani-Style Lamb Pat t ies 454

Grilled or Bro iled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Bu t ter 454

Grilled or Bro iled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 455

Grilled Paillards o f Chicken wi th Tarragon Bu t ter 455

Brazilian Mixed Grill 45 7HOT PEPPER SAUCE(MOLHO

A PI ME NT ADO) 45 7

Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 45 8

BLACK BEAN SAUCE 458

Jerked Game Hens 45 9

Fi l le t of Mahi Mahi wi th Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa 45 9

PINEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA 459

Broi led Stuf fed Lobs ter 461

Broiled B luefish a I 'Anglaise with MaTtre d'Hot el Bu tter 461

Fish Kebabs 462 MINT AND YOGURT CHUTNEY 462

Beef Wel l ington 463 MADEIRA SAUCE 46 3

MARSALA SAUCE 463

Stand ing Rib Roas t au Jus 46 4

Veal Shoulder Poele 464

Pork Roast with Jus Lie 465

Baked Stuff ed Pork Chops 465

Cantonese Roast Pork (C h a r S i u ) 466

Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 467 GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE 467

Carolina Barbecue 469 NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT SAUCE 469

NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN BARB ECUE SAUCE 46 9

MUSTARD B ARBECUE SAUCE (NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW COUNTRY SAUCE) 469

Pork But t wi th Coles law 470

Smoked B risket wi th Sweet Pickles 4 72

CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST-STYLE SAUCE 472-3

St . Lou is-Style Ribs 475 BARB ECUE SAUCE 475

Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 476

Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere 476

Roast Rack of Lamb Persille 477 PERSILLADE A l l

Roasted Shou lder of Lamb and Couscous ( Mechoui ) 478

Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne) 480

Roast Leg of Lamb with Min t Sauce 481

SALT HERBS 481

Roast Chicken wit h Pan Gravy 482 Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ff ing 482

Pan-Smoked Chicken 483

Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat 483

MUSHRO OM FORCEMEAT 484

Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 484-5

Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuff in g 485

CHESTNUTSTUFFING 486

Salmon Fillet w ith Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 486

chap ter 18 sauteing, pan frying,and deep frying

Sauteed Chicken with Fines HerbesSauce 500

FINES HERBES SAUCE 500

Chicken Provengal 501 BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL 501

Emince of Swiss -Style Veal 503

Veal Scaloppine Marsala 503

PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATOSAUCE 503

MARSALA SAUCE 504

Noiset tes of Pork wi th Green Peppercorn s and Pineapple 504

Sauteed Medallions of Pork wi th Win ter Frui t Sauce 505

WINTER FRUITSAUCE 505

Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 506

NOISETTES OF PORK WITH REDONION CONFIT 506

WARM CABBAGE SALAD 506

Pork Cutlet with Sauce Rober t 508

SAUCE ROBERT 508

SAUCE CHARCUTIERE 508

Red Snapper w ith Grapefru i t Salsa 509

Trout Amandine 509

MASTER RECIPE LIST


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Ancho -Cru ste d Sal mon wit h Yellow Pepper Sauce 511

YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE 511

Vatapa 512

Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere 513

Shrimp Ticin-Xic 513

Bibimbap 514

St i r-Fr ied Squid wi th Thai Basil 515

Breast o f Chicken with Duxelles Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 515

Bu t termilk Fr ied Chicken 516 COUNTRY GRAVY 516

Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets 518 WIENER SCHNITZEL 518

PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK CUTLET 518

Veal Cordon Bleu 51 8

Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese) 519Milanese Sauce 519

Fishermans Plat ter 520 REMOULADESAUCE 520

Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 521

Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 522

Floun der a IOrly 52 2

Beer Bat ter 522

Shrimp Tempura 523 TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 523

Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 524

SWEET GARLIC SAUCE 52 4

Grandmother 's Bean Curd (Mo Po Dofu) 527 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long ) 527

Fried Fish Cakes 52 8

Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno 528-9

Tinga Poblano 530

chap ter 19 steaming andsubmersion cooking

Bass and Scallops en Papi l lo te 553

Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 553

Poached Trout w ith Saffron Mousse 555

POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON MOUSSE 555

TROUT AND SAFFRON MOUSSELINE 555

SOLE MOUSSELIN E 555

SALMON MOUSSELINE 555

Poached Trout Paupiett es

with Vin Blanc Sauce 556Poached Sole Paupiet tes Veronique 557

ROYALGLACAGE 557

Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 558

Fillet o f Snapper en Papi l lo te 558-9

New England Shore Dinner 561

Boston Scrod with Cream,Capers, and Tomato es 561

Pescado Veracruzana 562

Cioppino 562-3 GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS 563

Poached Chicken Br east with Tarragon Sauce 56 4

Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Bi sc ui ts 5 64

Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 565

Udon Noodle Pot 566

Corned B eef wi th Winter Vegetables 566

Beef Nood le Soup (Pho Bo) 569Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 57 0Seafood Poached in a Saffro n Broth wi th Fennel 570

chapter 20 braising and stewing

Braised Oxtails 581DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581

Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalb iJ j im) 582Braised Short Ribs 584

Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 584-5

ROULADEN STUFFING 585

Yankee Pot Roast 586

Sauerbraten 587

Mole Negro 588 -9

Beef Stew 589

Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni ) 590

Choucroute 593

HOMEMAD E SAUERKRAUT 593

Cassoulet 594

DuckConf i t 595

New Mexican GreenChile Stew 595

Pork Vindaloo 596

Pork in a Green Curry Sauce 596

Szekely Goulash (SzekelyGulyas) 597Veal Blanq uette 597

Braised Veal Br east with Mushroom Sausage 598

MUSHROOM SAUSAGE 598

Pork Goulash 599 BEEF GOULASH 599

Osso Buco Milanes e 601 GREMOLATA 601

Polish Stu ffed Cabbage 602 Braised Lamb Shanks 604

Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb 605

HERBED FORCEMEAT STUFFING 605

Lamb Navarin 606

Lamb Khorma 607

Curried Goat with Green Papaya Salad 608

Irish Stew 608

Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 609

Chicken Tagine 611 PRESERVED LEMONS 611

Chicken Fricassee 612 VEAL FRICASSEE 612

Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya) 612-3

chapter 22 cooking vegetables

Boiled Carrots 681

Boiled Edamame 681

Steamed Broccoli 681BROCCOLI AND TOASTED GARLIC 681

Glazed Beets 683

Creamed Corn 683

Pan-Steamed Carrots 684PAN-STEAMED HARICOTSVERTS 684

PECAN CARROTS 68 4

MASTER RECIPE LIST


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Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 684

Green Beans with Walnuts 685

Glazed Carrots 685

Grilled Vegetables Proven


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Congee 795

Mille t and Cauliflow er Puree 796

Mixed Grain Pilaf 796

Green Onion-Bulgur Pi laf 796 -7

Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans 799

Wheat B erry Salad with Oranges, Cherries , and Pecans 79 9

Barley Salad with Cucumber and Mint 800

Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad 800

Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad 803

Am ar an th Pan ca ke s 803

Saigon Crepes 804

Font ina Risot to Fr i t ters 804

Corn and Asiago Cheese Riso tto Cakes 8 05

Wild Rice Cakes 806

chapter 25 cooking pasta anddumplings

Fresh Egg Pasta 819

WHOLE WHEAT PASTA 81 9

BUCKWHEAT PASTA 81 9

SPINACH PASTA 81 9

SAFFRON PASTA 81 9

CITRUS PASTA 81 9

CURRIED PASTA 81 9

HERBED PASTA 81 9

BLACK PEPPER PASTA 81 9

RED PEPPER PASTA 81 9

TOMATO PASTA 81 9

PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEETPASTA 819

Basic Boiled Pasta 819

Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broc coli Rabe, and Parmesan 821

Pasta alia Carbon ara 821

Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (.JapChae ) 822

Pad Thai 822Tempeh Cashew Noodles 82 5

Lasagna di Carnevale Napol i tana 825

Couscous 826

Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno) 826

As parag us and White Bean Lasagna 829

Ravioli Bercy 830

Gnocchi di Semolina Gratin ati 831

Gnocchi di Rico tta 831

Gnocchi Piedmon tese 832

Spatz le 834

Bread Dumplings 835

Biscui t Dumplings 835

Hush Puppies 837 Dim Sum 83 7

POTSTICKERS 837

Steamed Dumplings (.Shao-Mai ) 838

Pan-Fried Dumplings (GuoTie) 841

GINGER-SOY DIPPING SAUCE 841

Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noi sette, and Sage 842

chap ter 26 cooking eggs

Hard-Cooked Eggs 866

CODDLED EGGS 86 6

SOFT-COOKED EGGS 866

MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 866

Deviled Eggs 86 6

DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO 86 6

DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS 86 6

DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE 86 6

Pickled Eggs 86 8

RED PICKLED EGGS 86 8

Poached Eggs 86 8

Poached Eggs Mom ay 869

POACHED EGGS, FARMER-STYLE 869

POACHED EGGS WITHMUSHROOMS 869

POACHED EGGS MAS SENA 86 9

Poached Eggs with Corned Beef Hash 869

Eggs Benedic t 871

EGGS FLORENTINE 871

POACHED EGGS, AMERICAN-STYLE 871

POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVERCHASSEUR 871

POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKEDSALMON 871

Fried Eggs 871

EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM, ORHARD 871

Scrambled Eggs 872

SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES 87 2

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITHCHEESE 872

SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISH-STYLE 872

SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTER-STYLE 872

SCRAMBLED EGGS WITHBRATWURST 872

SCRA MBLED EGGS GRATINE 87 2

SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEK-STYLE 872

Plain Rolled Omelet 872

PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITEOMELET 873

CHEESE OMELET 873

CHEESE AND VEGETABLEOMELET 873

MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET 87 3

HERB OMELET 87 3

TOMATO OMELET 873

OMELET FLORENTINE 873OMELET MARCEL 873

OMELET OPERA 87 3

SEAFOOD OMELET 873

SHELLFISH OMELET 873

WESTERN OMELET 873

SPANISH OMELET 873

JELLY OMELET 873

Farmer-Style Omelet 873

Souff leed Cheddar Omelet 874

Spinach Souff le 874

SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE 87 4

Ar ti ch o ke So u ff le 875 Warm Goat Cheese Custard 875

Quiche Lorraine 876 SPINACH QUICHE 876

TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE 87 6

CARAME LIZED ONION QUICHE 876

SMOKED SALMON AND DILLQUICHE 876

BROCCOLI AND CHEDDARQUICHE 876

French Toast 878

chap ter 27 salad dressings andsalads

Red Wine Vinaig ret te 896

WHITE WINE VINAIGRETTE 896

MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE 896

ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARDVINAIGRETTE 896

LEMON-GARL IC VINAIGRETTE 896

LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE 896

x i i MASTER RECIPE LIST


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Chipot le-Sherry Vinaigret te 896

Alm ond-Fi g Vin ai g ret t e 8 9 7

Apple Ci der Vin aig ret t e 8 97

Balsamic Vinaig ret te 897

Curry Vinaig ret te 898

Honey-Poppy Seed-Ci t rus Dressing 898

Fire-Roasted Tomato Vina ig re t t e 899

Guava-Curry Vinaig ret te 899

Truff le Vinaig ret te 900

HERB AND TRUFFLEVINAIGRETTE 900

Peanut Oil and Malt Vineg ar Salad Dressing 900

Pesto Vinaigr et te 901

Vinaigr et te Gourmande 901

WALNUTOILAND RED WINEVINAIGRETTE 901

Green Goddess Dressing 901

Catalina French Dressing 902

Peanut Dressing 902

Caesar-Style Dressing 902

Cucumber Dressing 903

Mayonnaise 903

AN CHOV Y-C AP ER MAY ON NAISE 90 3

TARTAR SAUCE 90 3

GREEN MAYONNAISE 903

AToli 904

Blue Cheese Dressing 904

Creamy Black Pepperco rn Dressing 904

Japanese Salad Dressing 905

Ranch-Style Dressing 905

Thousand Island Dressing 906

Basil Oil 90 6

Orange Oil 90 7

Green Onion Oil 90 7

Paprika Oil 907

Mixed Green Salad 907

Thai Table Salad 90 8

Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad 908

Caesar Salad 90 8

Wedge of Iceberg with ThousandIsland Dressing 909

Chef s Salad 909

Greek Salad 910

Endive Salad with Roq uefo rt andWalnuts (So/ode de Roquefor t ,Noix, et Endives) 910 Cobb Salad 913

Taco Salad 91 3

TACO SAUCE 91 4

Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaig ret te 914

Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts 917

Sherried Watercress and App le Sal ad 917

Baby Spinach, Avo cado, and Grapefrui t Salad 918

Waldorf Salad 918

Celeriac and Tart App le Salad 918

Chayote Salad with Oranges(Salada de Xuxu) 919Summer Melon Salad withProsciut to 919

Onion and Cucumber Salad(Kachu mber) 919

Classic Polish Cucumber Salad(Mizer ia Klasyczna ) 920

Coleslaw 920

Moroccan Carro t Salad 920

Corn and Ji'cama Salad 921

Ji'cama Salad 921

Green Papaya Salad 921

Cucumber and Wakame Salad ( Sunonomo ) 922

Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) 922 Cucumber Salad 922

Cucumber Yogu rt Salad 923 Chicken Salad 92 3

Hue-Sty le Chicken Salad 924

CRISPY SHALLOTS 924

Tuna Salad 92 4

Egg Salad 925

Ham Salad 925

Shrimp Salad 925

Pasta Salad with Pesto Vina ig re t t e 925

European-Style Pota to Salad 926

Potato Salad 926

Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fottou sh) 926

Panzanella 927

Tomato and Mozzarella Salad 928

Roasted Peppers ( Peperoni A r r o s t i t i ) 928

Green Lent il Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Pu y) 928

VARIATION 928

Mixed Bean Salad 929

Warm Black -Eyed Pea Salad 929

Curried Rice Salad 930

Seafood Ravigote 930

chapter 28 sandwiches

CIA Club 934 Philly Hoagie 934

Chicken Burger 936

Barbecued Beef 936

Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions 937

Croque Monsieur 937

Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 939

MARINATED EGGPLANTFILLING 939

Grilled Vegetable Sandwich

with Manchego Cheese 940 Three Cheese Melt 940

Reuben Sandwich 942

Tempeh Reuben 942

Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese 943

Watercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise 943

App le San dw ic h w it h Cu rr y Mayonnaise 943

Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich 944

Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream 944

chap ter 29 hors doeuvre andappetizers

Smoked Salmon Mousse 953

Blue Cheese Mouss e 953

GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE 953

Pico de Gallo 953

Salsa Verde Asada 954

Salsa Verde Cruda 95 4

Salsa Roja 95 4

Papaya-Blac k Bean Salsa 955

Grapefru i t Salsa 955

Cumberland Sauce 955

As ian Dippi ng Sau ce 95 6

Cilantr o-Lim e Soy Sauce 956

Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce 956

Spring Roll Dipping Sauce 957

Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 957

MASTER RECIPE LIST


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Guacamole 958

Hummus bi Tahini 95 8

Baba Ghanoush 95 8

Harissa 959

Tapenade 959

Z'hug 960

Spicy Mustard 960Wasabi 960

Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade 960

Cranberr y Relish 961

Spicy Mango Chutney 961

Curried Onion Relish 961

Pickled Ginger 962

Pickled Red Onions 96 2

Tortil la Chips 962

Seviche of Scallops 962

Ceviche Estilo Acapulco 963

Smoked Salmon Plat ter 963

Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di Tonno alia Bat tu ta) 965Coconut Macadamia Shrimp 966

Clams Casino 966

Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes 96 9

Broiled Shrimp with Garlic 969

S tu ffed Shrimp 970

Samosas 970

Tofu Cakes with Portob ello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup 971

Pescado Frito 972

Mussels wi th W hite Wine and Shallots (M oules a la Mariniere) 975Tuna and Bean Salad ( Insa la ta di Tonno e Fagioli) 97 5Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Salts a Beltzean) 976Octopus "Fairground Style"(Pulpo a Feira) 97 6Grilled Shrimp Paste on

Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 97 7 Mushroom Strudel wi th Goat Cheese 978

Black Bean Cakes 978

Potato Omelet ( Torti l la Espanola) 979Spring Rolls 980

California Rolls 981

Vietnam ese Salad Rolls 981

Beef Carpaccio 982

Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce 982

Vite l lo Tonnato 983

Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Av oc ados , and Or an ge Oi l 983

Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) 98 4

chapter 30 charcu terie and gardemanger

Seafood and Salmon Terrine 993

FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE 993

Pate Grand-Mere 994

Aspi c 995

Chicken and Crayfish Terrine 996

Shellfish Essence 996

Cou ntry-Style Terr ine (Pdte

de Campagne) 998Pork Tenderloin Roulade 999

MEAT BRINE 999

Chicken Galantine 100 0

Foie Gras Terrine 100 1

FOIE GRAS ROULADE 100 1

Venison Terrine 1002

Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries 10 02 -3

Chicken Liver Pate 100 4

Duck and Smoked Ham Terr ine 1004-5

Pate Dough 100 6SAFFRON PATE DOUGH 10 06

Seafood Pate en Crou te 100 8

Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese 101 0

Pate Spice 1011

Gravlax 1011

chapter 31 baking mise en place

Egg Wash 10 23

Simple Syrup 1023COFFEE SIMPLE SYRUP 102 3

LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLESYRUP 1023

Chant i l ly Cream/Whipped Cream for Garnish 1023

Common Meringue 1024

Swiss Meringue 1024

I tal ian Meringue 1024

chap ter 32 yeast breads

Basic Lean Dough 10 33

Baguet tes 1033

Boules 1034

Focaccia 1034

Hard Rolls 1036

Ciabat ta 1036

Pita Bread 103 7

Semolina Pizza Crust 103 7

MARGHERITA PIZZA 1037

SPINACH PIZZA 1037

Naan Bread 1039

Cottag e Dill Rolls 1039

Brioche Loaf 1040 BRIOCHE ATETE 1040

Raisin B read with Cinnamon Swir l 1043

Challah (3-Bra id) 1044Sof t Dinner Rolls 1045

Sweet Dough 104 5

Stick y Buns 1046

cha pter 33 pastry doughs andbatters

Basic Pie Dough (3-2 -1) 1070

Bu t termilk Biscui ts 1070

Cream Scones 107 2

RAISIN SCONES 107 2HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES 107 2

Irish Soda Bread 1072

But termilk Pancakes 1073

BASIC WAFFLES 107 3

BANANA PANCAKES 10 73

CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES 10 73

BLUEBERRY PANCAKES 107 3

OATMEAL PANCAKES 107 3

Fried Bread (Puri) 107 4

Johnny Cakes 10 74

Crepes Suzet te 1075

DESSERT CREPES 10 76

Puff Past ry Dough 1076

Bli tz Puff Past ry Dough 1077

Basic Muff in Recipe 1078CRANBERRY-ORANGEMUFFINS 1078

BLUEBERRY MUFFINS 1078

Bran Muff ins 1078

Corn Muff ins 1079CORNBREAD 1079

x i v MASTER RECIPE LIST


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I

Banana -NutBread 1079

Pumpkin Bread 1081

Pound Cake 108 1

Devil's Food Cake 10 82

Ange l Foo d Cak e 10 82

Vanilla Spong e Cake 10 83

CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE 10 83

Chocolate XS Cake 108 3

Cheesecake 1084GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1084

P a t e a C h o u x 1 0 8 4

GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESEPUFFS) 1084

Eclairs 1085

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS 108 5

Prof i t e ro l e s 1085

ICECREAM-FILLEDPROFITEROLES 1085

1-2 -3 Cookie Dough 108 6

Alm ond-A nis e B is c o tt i 1086

Pecan Diamonds 108 8

Chocolate Chunk Cookies 108 8

CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNKCOOKIES 1088

Mudslide Cookies 108 9

Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies 1089

Nut Tuile Cookies 109 0

Fudge Brownies 109 0

chap ter 34 custards, cream s, andmousses

Vanilla Sauce 10 98

Past ry Cream 1098

CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM 10 98

Pastry Cream fo r Souff les 1099

Creme Brulee 1099

Creme Caramel 110 0

Vanilla Ice Cream 11 03

CHOCOLATE ICECREAM 110 3

COFFEE ICE CREAM 11 03

RASPBERRY ICE CREAM 11 03Diplomat Cream 110 3

Chocolate Mousse 1104

Raspberry Mousse 1104

Chocolate Souff le 1106

Bread and Bu tter Pudding 1106

chap ter 35 fillings, frostings, anddessert sauces

I ta lian But terc ream 1125

App le Pie 11 25

Cherry Pie 1126

Pecan Pie 11 26

CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE 112 6

Lemon Meringu e Pie 112 7

Pumpkin Pie 112 7

Frangipane Filling 112 8

Pear Frangipane Tartlet s 112 8 POACHED PEARS 112 8

Hard Ganache 112 8

Chocolate Sauce 112 9

Sabayon 1129

ZABAGLIONE 1129

Classic Caramel Sauce 11 29

Raspberr y Coulis 1129 A p rico t Glaze 11 30

Dried Cherry Sauce 113 0

App le B u t ter 1130

Fru it Salsa 113 0

cha pter 36 plated desserts

Warm Date Spice Cake with Dates, Butters cot ch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream 113 5

CINNAMON ICECREAM 1135

APPL E CH IP S 1136

MILK CHOCOLATE CINNAMON STICKS 1136

DATE SPICE CAKE 11 37

PHYLLOTUBES 1137

BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 11 37

ORANGE-SCENTED CREME CHANTILLY 1138

CARAMELIZED APPLES 1138

Blackberry and Por t -Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies 1139

BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED PEARS 1139

SABLE COOKIES 1140

RICOTTA CREAM 1140

Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberr y Compote 1143

BASIL ICE CREAM 114 3

TARTLET SHELLS 114 4

TUILES 1144

BASIL SAUCE 114 5

LEMON CURD 1145

BLUEBERRY COMPOTE 1145

Key Lime Tart 1146 CREME CHANTILLY 114 6

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1146

KEY LIME TART 1 146

STRAWBERRY COULIS 1146

Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Ci lantro Sorbet 1149

MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED PINEAPPLE 1149

CILANTRO SORBET 1149

COCONUT CHIPS 1150

COCONUT FLANS 1150

Smores 1151 GRAHAM CRACKER ICE CREAM 1151

CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR 1152

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR SMORES 1152

MARSHMALLOW 1152

BEIGNETTRU FFLE CENTERS 115 3

CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE 115 3

WHITE SAUCE 1154

CHOCOLATE BEIGNET BATTER 1154

Prof i t e ro l e s 1157

VANILL A ICE CREAM 1157 COFFEE ICE CREAM 11 58

DUL CEDEL ECHEICE CREAM 1158

CORN FLAKE CRUNCH 1159

CHOCOLATE SAUCE 115 9

VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE 1159

CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX 116 0

CHOCOLATE STRAWS 116 0

MASTER RECIPE LIST x v


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acknowledgmentsTHANK YOU to the follow ing facu lty and sta ff at The Culinary Institute o f America for

assisting in the revision fo r the ninth edition o f The Profes sional Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC, AAC; M ark Er ick so n, CMC; Brad Barnes , CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Cha rlie Ra scoll ; Eve

Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro.

The heart of this book is the de tailed explana tion of coo king methods in words and

images, as well as an amazingly diverse collection of recipes. For their d edication to ex

cellence in several areas (reading and critiquing the te xt, te sting and reviewing recipes,

and being the hands you see in the photographs), the following individuals are also to be

cong ratulated and thanked:

Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC

Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE

David J. Barry '95, CHE

Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE

Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE

Robert Briggs

David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE

Kate Cavot ti, CMB, CHE

Dominick Cerrone

Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE

Howard F. Clark 71, CCE, CWC, CHE

Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE

Gerard Coyac, CHE

Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE

Paul Delle Rose 94, CHE

Joseph DePaola '94, CHE

John DeShetler 68, CHE, PCII/CCCJoseph W. Di Pe rr i'77, CHE

Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB

Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB

Anit a Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE

Mark Elia

Joseba Encabo, CHE

Martin Frei, CHE

Michael A. Garnero, CHE

Lynne G igli ott i 88, CHE

Pete r Greweling, CMB, CHE

Carol D. Hawran '93

Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE

James W. Heywood '67, CHE

George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE

James Michael Jennings '93

Stephen J. Johnson '94

David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE,CHE

Morey Kanner '84, CHE

Cynthia Keller '83

Thomas Ki e f 78, CHE

Joseph Klug '82, CHE

Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE

John Kowalski '77, CHE

Pierre LeBlanc, CHE

Xavier Le Roux, CHE

Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE

Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE

Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE

AC K NO W LED G M EN TS


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James Maraldo, CHE

Hub er t J. Mar tini , CEC, CCE, CHE, AAC

Bruce S. M a tt e l'80, CHE

Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE

Darryl Mosher, CHE

Robert Mullooly '93

Tony Nogales 88, PCII, CEC, CHE

Michael Pardus '81, CHE

Robert Perillo '86, CHE

William Phillips '88, CHE

Katherine Polenz '73, CHE

Heinrich Rapp, CHE

Surgeio Remolina, CHE

John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE

Theodore R oe '91, CHE

Paul R. Sartory '78

Giovanni Scappin

Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE

Thomas Schneller, CHE

Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE

Johann Sebald, CHE

Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE

David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE

Brannon Soileau '91, CHE

Rudo lf Spiess, CHE

John J. St e in '80, CFBE, CHE

Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE

Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE

Al ber to Vanoli , CHE

Howard Velie, CEC, CHE

Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE

Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE

Stephane Weber, CHE

Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP,CHE

Gregory Zif ch ak '80, CHE

For the profes sional ch ef there are many subjects to master. A special thank you to

those who helped develop and review chapters de dicated to m anagement, food safety,

and nutrit ion:

Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE

Richard Vergil i, CHE

The images in this book were crea ted in the Institute 's s tudios and kitchens. Many

thanks to photographer Ben Fink whose expertise and artistry is the perfect comple

men t to the te xt, techniques, and recipes.

Thanks to the book's designer, Alison Lew o f Vertigo Design, who brough t it all to

geth er be au tifully and to the p rodu ction e ditor a t Wiley, Alda Trabucchi, for her t ireless

attention to every detail, large and small. And finally, thank you to Pam Chirls, executive

editor, for her overall guidance and vision.

AC KN O W LEDG M ENTS


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introductionBECOMING A CHEF is a career-long process. Cooking is a dynamic professionone that

provides some o f the grea test challenges as well as some o f the grea test rewards. Thereis always another level of p erfec tion to achieve and another skill to m aster. It is our hope

tha t this book will function both as a springboard into futu re gro wth and as a reference

point to give ballast to the lessons s til l to be learned.

By the nature o f i ts encyclopedic subject coverage, this tex t is suited to a variety

of curricula, whether as part o f an existing program or throug h indep endent study. An

instru ctor may choose to use all or part o f i ts contents; the stude nt may use it to ad

vance his or her learning by employing it as a broad, basic text or as a reference tool to

answer spe cific questions about a pa rticular technique. The techniques as explained in

this book have all been tested in the Institutes kitchens. Each represents one of many

possible variations. The fact th at all variations are not included in this tex t does not

imply tha t other m ethods are incorrect. Experience will teach the stud ent many "tricksof the trade." The tit le of this work should not pu t i t into the rarified catego ry of books

to be used only by those w orking in restaura nt or h otel kitchens. The basic lessons of

cooking are the same wh ether one prepares food fo r paying guests or for one's family

and friends. Therefore, we hope that those who look to coo king fo r a creative o utle t will

come to regard this book as a valuable tool.

This book is suited to a variety o f teaching s ituations because the m aterial is ar

ranged in a logical, progressive sequence. Chapter One covers the history of cooking as a

profess ion and examines the skills and attribu tes of a profess ional chef and other mem

bers of the f oodservice pro fession. (For more inform ation about table service and dining

room operat ions , consul t A t Your Service o r Remarkable Service.)

Since f oodservice is a business, some o f the elem entary aspe cts of food cos ting are discussed in Chapter Two, as is how to adap t recipes from this bo ok or any

oth er fo r use in a spe cific professiona l kitchen. Knowing how to adapt recipes is useful

fo r scheduling, con trolling costs, and improving qu ality. (For more details abou t culi

nary math, consult Mat h fo r the Professional Kitchen.) N utrition and food science have

become pa rt o f the everyday language of the profess ional kitchen, and Chapter Three

reviews some basic concepts of n utrit ion and science, particularly as they relate to

cooking. (For more information about nutrit ional cooking, consult Techniques o f Healt hy

Cooking.) Food and kitchen s afety are o f increasing concern in all foods ervice o pera

tions, and Chapter Four presents fundam ental concep ts and procedures fo r assuring

tha t safe, wholesome foo d is prepared in a safe environmen t.

Counted among the basics in the kitchen is the a bility to seek out and purchase the

best possible ingredients. P art Two is a catalog o f the too ls and ingredients used in the

professional kitchen, and includes information regarding product specifications, pur

chasing, and such processing conc erns as trim loss. There are sepa rate cha pters de voted

to meats, poultry, and game; fish and shellfish; fruits, vegetables, and fresh herbs; dairy

pro du cts and eggs; and nonpe rishable good s such as oils, flou rs, grains, and dried pastas.

Cooking is not always a pe rfec tly precise art , b ut a good grasp of the basics gives

the che f or student the a bility not only to apply the technique, but also to learn the stan

dards o f qua lity so tha t they begin to develop a sense of how coo king works. Part Three

is devoted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The part opens with a chapter covering such

x v i i i I N TR O DU C TI O N


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basic mise en place techniques as preparing and using seasoning and aromatic com bina

tions (bouque t garni and sachet d'epices), mirepoix, and thickeners (roux and starches).Part Four prese nts the tech niques used to cook meats, po ultry, fish, and shellfish.

This part covers the basic fabrica ting m ethods fo r fam iliar cuts of meat, pou ltry, and fish

and then d em onstrates how to g rill, roast, saute, pan fry, s tir-fry , deep fry, steam, poach,

stew, and braise. These im po rtan t lessons are presented in clear step-b y-step pho to

graphs, with explan atory te xt and a model recipe.

In Part Five, chapters con centrate on pre paration techn iques fo r vegetables,

grains and legumes, pasta and dumplings, and potatoes. Part Six covers breakfast and

garde manger, with chapters covering eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches,

and garde m anger items such as pates and terrines . (For fur the r inform ation on these

subjects, consult Garde Manger: The Art and Cra ft o f the Cold Kitchen, Third Edition .)

Baking and pastry is presented in Part Seven, with atte ntio n paid to the pre paration ofbreads and rolls; cakes and cookies; pastry doughs and crusts; a variety of fillings, icings,

and glazes; and plated desserts.

The recipes included in this book are examples of the w ide range of po ssibili t ies

open to the stud ent once the basics are mastered. It should be noted tha t these recipes

have both Am erican and m etric measurem ents. The recipe yields refle ct re al-life cook

ing situations: some items, such as stocks and soups, are prepared in large quantities,

wh ile others, such as sautes and grills, are pre pare d a la minute, a few po rtions at a time.

Larger roasts, braises, stews, and side dishes generally have yields of 10 servings; any

marinades, sauces, or condim ents included in the recipes tha t are prepa red in advance

are norm ally given in quan tities to produce a yield o f 10 servings. These yields may not

always suit the stud ent who is using the b ook outside of a professiona l kitchen. In mostcases, they can be reduced or increased in orde r to prepare the corre ct number o f serv

ings. Baking recipe yields are based on sp ec ific weigh t ratios, however, and must be fo l

lowed exactly.

The new look in this new edition re flects the way we think about teaching cooking.

We learn best when we understand not only how to do something, but why we should do

it tha t way. From this ground ed approach, stude nts a t any level can confide ntly take new

directions in the ir cooking careers.

INTRODUCTION x i x


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the culinary profi*

13

r D

Chapter 5 EQUIP MENT IDENTIFICATION 65


86/125

grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipmentGrinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremelydangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefsshould be able to use them with confidence.

FOOD PROCESSOR

TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN


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IMMERSION BLENDER

BLENDER

STANDING MIXER AND AT TA CH ME NT S

chap ters EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION 6 7

g r i n d i n

g , s l i c i n

g , m i x i n

g , a n d

p u r e e i n

g

e q u i p m e n t


88/125

Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing EquipmentNAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES

blender Consists o f a base tha t houses the m oto r and a removable lidded jar w ith apropeller-like blade in its bottom. Speedse ttings fo r m otor are in base. Jarsmade o f stainless steel, plastic, or glass;available in several capacities

Exce llent fo r pureeing, l iquefying,and emu ls ifying foods

food processor M oto r housed in base, sep arately fromremovable bowl, blade, and lid. May haveextra disks for specialized cutting

Grinding, pureeing, blending, emulsifying, crushing, and kneading. Withspecial d isks: slicing, julienning , andshredding

immersion blender/hand blender/stickblender/burr mixer

Long, slender one-piece machine; likean inverted blender. Top houses motor, which generally runs at only onespeed. Plastic handle with on/off switch

extends from top o f housing. Stainless-s teel dr ivesha f t extends f rom m otor andends with blade, which is immersed inthe food

Pureeing, l iquefying, and em ulsifyinglarge batches of food d irec tly in thecooking vessel

vertical choppingmachine (VCM)

Motor in base is permanently attachedto bow l with integ ral blades. As a safe typrecaution, hinged lid must be locked inplace before unit will operate

Grinding, whipping em ulsifying,blending, crushing large qu antitieso f food

food chopper/buffalo chopper

Food is placed in a rotating bowl thatpasses under a hood, where blades chopthe food. Some have hoppers or feedtubes and interchang eable disks. Ava ilable in floor and tabletop models

Chopping large quantities of food;with special disks: slicing or grating

food sheer/meat slicer

Ca rrier moves food back and for thagainst circular blade, generally made ofcarbon steel. Guard provides sa fety

Slicing foods in even thicknesses

mandoline Blades of high-carbon steel. Levers ad ju s t bl ad es to ac hiev e cut and th ic knessdesired. Guard provides safety

Sl ic ing, ju l ienning, c ut t ing ga ufre t tesand batonnets

stand mixer Electric m achine has large detacha blebowl of varying capacities (5-quart,10-qua r t , 20-quar t , 40-qu ar t , e tc .) . Attachments: whip, paddle, dough hook.Bowl is locked in place and attachmentrota tes through ba t ter or dough

Mixing, beating, whipping, kneading

meat grinder May be frees tan ding m achine or a t tachme nt fo r a standing mixer. Should havedisks o f varying sizes; in general w illhave a feed tray and a pusher

Grinding; stu ffing sausage casings(with a t tachment)



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meat, poultry,and gameidentification

For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of

the most expensive areas of the businessbut also one of the most potentially

profitab le. In order to ge t the most value out o f the meats purchased, it is imp

to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.

C H A P T E R 6


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meat basicsThe meat, pou ltry, and game cuts tha t a restau rant

should buy will depend upon the nature o f the particular

operation. A restau rant fea turing p redom inantly a la

minute preparationsespecially one with a preponder

ance of grilled or sauteed item s will need to purchaseextrem ely tende r (and more expensive) cuts. A restau

rant tha t uses a varie ty o f techniques may be able to use

some less-tend er cu ts fo r example, the veal shank in a

braise such as osso buco.

Meats can be purchased in a number of forms and at

varying degrees o f readiness to cook. The chef should

consider several factors when deciding what type of

mea t to buy. Storage capacity, the equipm ent required

to prepare a menu item, the kitchen staffs ability to

fab ricate cuts, and the volume of mea t required must

all be taken into consideration. Once this info rm ation

is evaluated, the chef can determine w hethe r it is more

econo mical to p urchase large pieces, such as whole legs

of veal, or pre fabrica ted meats, such as veal already cut

into a top round, or pre cut scaloppini.

Me ats should be checked fo r wholesome ness and

freshness. Cut surfaces should appear m oist, but not

shiny. The meat sho uld have a good color, which varies

by type as well as by cut. The me at should also sm ell ap

pealing. Packaged mea ts should arrive w ith the packag

ing inta ct with no punctures or tears.

The tables accom panying the follow ing sections

contain key pieces of inform ation about beef, veal, pork,

and lamb, adapted from The Mea t Buyer's Guide by the

North Am erican Mea t Processors Association (NAMP),

including item numbers as assigned by the NAMP and

an average range in size for a cut. Appropriate cooking

methods fo r various cuts have also been included.

STORAGE

Meats, po ultry, and game should be wrapped and stored

under refrigera tion. When possible, they should be held

in a separate unit, or at least in a separate part of thecooler. They should always be placed on trays to prevent

them from dr ipping onto other foods or the f loor.

The chef should separate diffe re nt kinds o f meats;

fo r example, pou ltry should not come into con tact

wi th beef , or pork products in to contact w i th any other

meats. This w ill prevent cross contam ination.

Vacuum-packed mea ts can be stored d irectly in the

package, as long as it has not been p uncture d or ripped.

Once unwrapped, meats should be rewrapped in air-pe r

meab le paper, such as butche r's paper, because airtig ht

containers promote bacterial growth that could result inspoilage or contamination.

Variety m eats, poultry, and uncured pork produ cts,

which have sho rt sh elf lives, should be cooked as soon

as possible afte r they are received. Me at stored at the

prope r tem pera ture and under optim al conditions can

be held for several days with ou t noticeable loss of qual

ity. Mea t can also be frozen fo r longer storage.

REFRIGERATED: 28 TO B 2 F/-2 T O 0C

FROZEN: 0 TO 20 F /-1 8 TO -7C

INSPECTION AND GRADING

Governm ent inspection o f all meats is mandatory.

Inspections are required at various times: a t the slaugh

terhouse (antemortem) and again after butchering

(postmo rtem). This is done to ensure that the animal is

free fro m disease and tha t the me at is wholesome and

fi t fo r human consump tion. Inspection is a service paid

for by tax do llars.

Some states have relinquished the respo nsibili ty for

inspecting me ats to federa l inspectors. Those states

that s t i l l adm inis ter thei r own inspections of meatmust at leas t meet, if not exceed, the accep ted federal

standards.

Qu ality grading, however, is not m anda tory. The

U.S. Dep artm ent of A griculture (USDA) has developed

spe cific standards to assign grades to meats and trains

graders. The pa cker may, however, choose not to hire a

USDA grader and may forgo grading in favo r o f the use

o f an in-house brand name ins tead. The costs involved

in grading mea ts are absorbed by the individual meat

packer, not the taxpayer, since this process is voluntary.

Depending upon the pa rticula r animal, the gra der willconsider ove rall carcass shape, ratio o f fat to lean, ratio

o f me at to bone, color, and ma rbling o f lean flesh. The

grade placed on a particula r carcass is then ap plied to all

the cu ts from th a t animal. In beef, only a small percentage

of m eats produc ed is graded prime. Choice and select

are more ofte n a vailable. Grades lower than se lect are



91/125

gene rally used for proce ssed m eat and are of no practical

importance to the restauran t (or retail) industry.

Some me ats may also receive y ield grades. This

grade is of the grea test significance to w holesalers. It

indicates the amoun t of salable me at in relation to the

tota l weight o f the carcass. Butchers refe r to this as

"cutability." In othe r words, i t is a measure of the yield o fedible meat fro m each pound o f the carcass.

MARKET FORMS OF MEAT

A ft e r s la ughte ring, in sp ectio n, and gr ad ing, th e an imal

carcass is cut into manageable pieces. Sides are pre

pared by making a cut down the length of the backbone.

Each side is cut into tw o pieces to make quarters, div id

ing the sides betwee n sp ecific vertebrae . Saddles are

made by cuttin g the an imal across the belly, again at a

spec ified p oint. The exact standards fo r individual ani

mal types govern whe re the carcass is to be divided.

The next step is to cut the animal into wha t are re

ferre d to as primal cuts. There are uniform standa rds for

beef, veal, pork, and lamb p rimals. These large cuts are

then further broken down into subprimals. Subprimals

are generally trimm ed and packed as foodse rvice, value

added, or HRI (Hotel, Restaurant, and Institution) cuts.

There may be even more fab rication or butchering done

in order to prepare steaks, chops, roasts, or ground

meat. These cuts are referre d to as portion c ontro l cuts.

The amount o f butch ering done in packing plants

has increased over the p ast several years. While it is still

possible to purchase hanging meat, most ope rations will

buy wha t is referred to as boxed meat. This indicates

tha t the m eat has been fab ricated to a spe cific point

(primal, subprimal, or retail cut), packed in Cryovac,

boxed, and shipped fo r sale to purveyors, butchers,

chain reta il outlets, and so forth.

KOSHER MEATS

Kosher meats are specially slaughtered, bled, and

fabr icated in order to comply wi th re l ig ious d ie tary

laws. In this co untry, only bee f and veal forequ arters,

pou ltry, and some game are custom arily used fo r kosher

prepa rations. Kosher meats are butchered from ani

mals slaughtered by a shohet, or by a spe cially trained

rabbi. The animal m ust be killed w ith a single stro ke of a

knife, then fully bled. All the veins and arteries must be

removed from the m eat. This process would essentially

m utilate the flesh of loins and legs of be ef and veal;there fore , these are gene rally not sold as kosher.

OFFAL

O ffal can best be described as the ed ible by-products

o f a me at carcass. Examples include organ mea ts such

as the liver, kidney, hea rt, brain, tripe , certain glands,

and intestinal tracts. In addition, the cheeks, tail, and

tongue are pa rt of the o ffal category. O ffal is generally

inexpensive but requ ires some skill to cook properly.

Organ meats are composed of fibers that are different

from those of lean muscle. Membranes, blood vessels,

and connective tissues need to be removed from livers

and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as the liver and kidneys,

are high in iron, which tran slate s in to rich flavor. The tail

has some me at and a lot o f collagen and is typic ally used

fo r rich braises.

In many cultures, offal is considered a delicacy.

Some o ffal is considered the epitome of high cuisine.

An ex am ple wou ld be th e fa tt e n e d du ck or goo se liv er

known as foie gras. This meat has a consistency that

resembles bu tter and a distinctive flavor. Foie gras is

an exception to the gene ral rule tha t organ meats are

inexpensive and can command a high price. Another ex

ception to this rule is the sweetbread, or thym us gland,

of veal. When properly prepared, this soft-structured

gland can be eaten with a fork. Sweetbreads are in high

demand and warrant a high cost.

Organ meats tend to be highly perishable and there

fore must be used fresh, within a week of slaughter, or

purchased frozen. Be sure to keep frozen items below

32 and -4F /0 and -18C to ensure the form at ion of

small ice crystals and minimize damage.

chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATION 71

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beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,especially in the United States. A significant source ofprotein, beef is featured in an array of classic and contemporary dishes. This expensive product demands special care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut tomaximize the yield is an important practice to follow.

Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers(castrated males) over one year old and heifers (femalecows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,

the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beeffrom Japan, Limousin beef from France, and CertifiedAngus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from theUnited States are also available.

The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to lowest quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan

dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime isusually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.

These cuts are from the primal cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank

stew, 3. top round, 4. top round tied as a roast, 5. marrow bones



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These cuts are from the p rimal cu t known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhou se ste ak cut

from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin b utt, 4. flank steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trimm ed te nde r

loin, 7. tenderlo in steaks, 8. boneless strip loin, 9. portio n-c ut str ip loin steaks

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beef, continued

These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. portio n-c ut s hort ribs,

3, rib eye lip on, 4. por tion -cu t rib steaks

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Bovine Beef Primal Cuts

SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARYU SES |

round primal cut

SHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground

HEEL . Braising, stew ing O ften braised or stewed; prepared asgoulash

KNUCKLE Braising, ro asting Often prepared as kabobs

TOP ROUND Roasting, pan frying, bro iling Often prepared as a roulade,braciole, or London broil

EYE ROUND Roasting, braising Pot roasted ; oven roasted and slicedthin; carpaccio; fondue

BOTTOM ROUND Braising Often prepared as a po t roast orsauerbraten

loin primal cut

SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOINBUTT)

Roasting, broiling, grill ing Often prepared as steaks

TENDERLOIN, PSMOPORTION-CUT

Roasting, broiling, g rilling, sauteing Often prepare d as Chateaubriand,tourned os, medallions, or file tmignon

FLANK STEAK Broiling, grilling, braising Often prepared as London broil , but-ter f l ied , or s tuffed

STRIP LOIN, 175BONE-IN (SHELL); 180BONELESS

Roasting, broiling, grill ing Often prepared as a roas t or steaks(New York strip steak)

SHORT LOIN Broiling, g rillin g Often prepared as porterhouse orT-bone steak

rib primal cut

BONE -IN EXPORT RIB,109DEXPORT STYLE

Roasting, grill ing Often prepared as prime rib roast,bone-in rib steak, or cowboy steak

BONELESS LIP-ON RIB,

112A

Roasting, grilling, sauteing Often prepared boneless as rib eye

roast or Delmonico steaks

SHORT RIBS Braising Often braised, slow-roasted, orbarbecued

chuck primal cut

SQUARE-CUT CHUCK Braising, s tew ing Often prepared as chuck roast orground

SHOULDER CLOD B ra isin g, ro as tin g, s te win g, g rillin g O fte n p re pa re d as s te ak s or g ro un d



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5UBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES !

market forms

PLATE Braising Often prepared as short ribs

BRISKET Braising Often prepared corned and aspast rami

FORESHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground

variety meats (offal)

LIVER Sauteing Often prepared as forcem eat

TRIPE Braising or slow simm ering in a bro th orred sauce

Slow-braised or stewed

KIDNEYS Stewing Often baked into a pie

TONGUE Simmering Often prepared smoked

OXTAILS Braising, stew ing Often slow braised as a stew, soup,or ragoOt

INTESTINES Depends on the pre paration Used as casing for sausage

HEART Braising, stew ing Often prepared in stew or added todishes in chopped form

BLOOD Depends on the pre paration Used to prep are coa gulate sausages

loin

roundl

sirloin sho rt loin rib1 1 1

chuck1

foreshank

Beef skeletal structure

chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATIO N 77


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Beef HRI Cuts

ITEM PRODUCT NAMEWEIGHT RANGE(POUNDS)

103 Rib (prim al) 3 5 -4 0

109 Rib, roas t-ready 1 8 - 2 2

109D Rib, roas t-ready, cover o ff , sh o rt-cu t 1 6 -1 8

11 2 Rib, rib eye roll 8 - 1 0

112A Rib, rib eye roll, lip on 11 - 1 3

113 Chuck, squa re -cut (prim al) 7 9 - 1 0 6

114 Chuck, should er clod 1 5 - 2 1

116A Chuck, chuck roll, tie d 1 5 - 2 1

12 0 Brisket, boneless, deckle o ff 1 0 - 1 2

121C Plate, sk irt steak (diaphragm), outer 2 and up

121D Plate, sk irt steak, inner 3 and up

123 Rib, sh o rt ribs 3 -5

123B Rib, short ribs, trim m ed Am ount as specif ie d

166B Round, rump and shank pa rtially removed, handle on (steamship) 5 2 - 7 0

167 Round, knuckle 9 - 1 3

167A Round, knuckle, peeled 8 - 1 2

169 Round, to p (inside) 1 7 - 2 3

170 Round, bottom (gooseneck) 2 3 - 3 1

170A Round, bottom (gooseneck), heel out 2 0 - 2 8

171B Round, bot tom , outs ide round f la t 1 0 - 1 6

171C Round, eye o f round 3 and up

172 Loin, full loin, trimm ed (primal) 5 0 - 7 0

174 Loin, sho rt loin, shor t-cut 2 2 - 2 6



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175

18 0

18 1

184

185A

185B

185D

18 9

189A

19 0

190A

19 1

193

134

135

135A

136

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PRODUCT NAME

Loin, strip loin, bone-in

WEIGHT RANGE(POUNDS)

1 8 - 2 0

Loin, strip loin, boneless 7 - 11

Loin, sirloin 1 9 - 2 8

Loin, top sirloin bu tt , boneless 1 2 - 1 4

Loin, bottom sirloin butt , flap, boneless 3 and up

Loin, bo ttom sirloin bu tt , ball t ip, boneless 3 and up

Loin, bot tom s i r lo in bu t t , tr i - t ip , boneless , defa t ted 3 and up

Loin, fu ll tende rloin -10

Loin, full tend erloin, side muscle on, de fatted 5 -6

Loin, full tenderloin, side muscle off, defatted 3 -4

Loin, full ten derloin, side m uscle off, skinned 3 -4

Loin, bu t t tend er loin 2 -4

Flank steak 1 and up

Bee f bones A m ount as specif ie d

Diced beef Am ount as specif ie d

Beef for s tewing

Ground beef

Am ount as specifi ed

A m ount as specif ie d

Beef pat ty mix Am ount as specif ie d

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veal Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally fourto five months old. Because of its young, delicately tender flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meatavailable. Classical preparations include, but are notlimited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, vealpiccata, and veal scaloppine.

Fine veal calves are fed mothers milk or formula.Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believedto have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves

consume a special diet and are the standard type of vealused today; this veal is up to four months old.

Veal should be selected by color; it should be lightpink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of

meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there areproportionately fewer cuts of veal.

These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. top round cap off,

5. po rtion- cut veal cutlets, 6. trimm ed loin, 7. portion -cut chops



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Bovine Veal Primal CutsSUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES j

leg primal cut

SHANK Braising, stewing Often prepared osso buco

HEEL Stewing Often prepared ground

TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE;BOTTOM ROUND;EYE ROUND; BUTT

Dry heat saute, roasting, stewing Often prepared as scaloppine, cutlets(V2 in/1 cm), schn itzel [ lA in/6 mm),emince, escalope, and kabobs. Usablet r im of ten used for s tewing or prepared as forcemeat

loin primal cut

TENDERLO IN; SIRLO IN R oa stin g, s au te in g Often prepared as medallions,

noisettes, and as a whole roast

TRIMMED LOIN;SPLIT BONELESS LOIN(STRIP LOIN)

Roasting (bone-in or boneless), sauteing,broiling

Often prepared as chops (bone-in orboneless), medallions, scaloppine,emince, escalope

hotel rack primal cut

RACK; SPL IT CHOP-READY RACK;FRENCHEDRACK

Roasting (bone-in or boneless), broiling,grill ing, sauteing

Often prepared as frenched or crown,chops (bone-in, frenched), and medallions, scaloppine, emince, escalope

square-cut shoulder primal cut

SQUARE-CUTSHOULDER, BONELESS

Roasting (boneless), stewing, b raising Often prepared ground

SHOULDER CLOD Stewing, roasting, braising Often prepared ground

market forms

BREAST Braising, roa sting Often prepared s tuffed, bu t terf lied ,or as bacon

FORESHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground

variety meats (offal)

CHEEKS Braising, stew ing Used in braises and stews

TONGUE Braising, sim m ering Often used in the pre paration o fterr ines

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173139226 the Professional Chef Το ΓΑστρονομικό Ινστιτούτο ΑμΕρικής...

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